Expansion of the Cosmetics Europe skin sensitisation database with new substances and PPRA data.

The assessment of skin sensitisation is a key requirement in all regulated sectors, with the European Union's regulation of cosmetic ingredients being most challenging, since it requires quantitative skin sensitisation assessment based on new approach methodologies (NAMs). To address this challenge, an in-depth and harmonised understanding of NAMs is fundamental to inform the assessment. Therefore, we compiled a database of NAMs, and in vivo (human and local lymph node assay) reference data. Here, we expanded this database with 41 substances highly relevant for cosmetic industry. These structurally different substances were tested in six NAMs (Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay, KeratinoSens™, human Cell Line Activation Test, U-SENS™, SENS-IS, Peroxidase Peptide Reactivity Assay). Our analysis revealed that the substances could be tested without technical limitations, but were generally overpredicted when compared to reference results. Reasons for this reduced predictivity were explored through pairwise NAM comparisons and association of overprediction with hydrophobicity. We conclude that more detailed understanding of how NAMs apply to a wider range of substances is needed. This would support a flexible and informed choice of NAMs to be optimally applied in the context of a next generation risk assessment framework, ultimately contributing to the characterisation and reduction of uncertainty.

Development of a next generation risk assessment framework for the evaluation of skin sensitisation of cosmetic ingredients.

All cosmetic products placed onto the market must undergo a risk assessment for human health to ensure they are safe for consumers, including an assessment of skin sensitisation risk. Historically, in vivo animal test methods were used to identify and characterise skin sensitisation hazard, however non-animal and other new approach methodologies (NAMs) are now the preferred and mandated choice for use in risk assessment for cosmetic ingredients. The experience gained over the last three decades on how to conduct risk assessments based upon NAMs has allowed us to develop a non-animal, next generation risk assessment (NGRA) framework for the assessment of skin sensitisers. The framework presented here is based upon the principles published by the International Cooperation on Cosmetic Regulation (ICCR) and is human relevant, exposure led, hypothesis driven and designed to prevent harm. It is structured in three tiers and integrates all relevant information using a weight of evidence (WoE) approach that can be iterated when new information becomes available. The initial tier (TIER 0) involves a thorough review of the existing information including; identification of the use scenario/consumer exposure; characterisation of the chemical purity and structure; in silico predictions; existing data pertaining to skin sensitisation hazard (historical or non-animal); the identification of suitable read-across candidates with supporting hazard identification/characterisation information and application of exposure-based waiving. Considering all information identified in TIER 0, the next step is the generation of a hypothesis (TIER 1). All data are considered in an exposure-led WoE approach, taking into account an initial view on whether a chemical is likely to be a skin sensitiser or not, choice of defined approach (DA) and availability of read-across candidates. If existing information is insufficient for concluding the risk assessment, the generation of additional information may be required to proceed (TIER 2). Such targeted testing could involve refinement of the exposure estimation or generation of data from in vitro or in chemico NAMs. Once sufficient information is available, the final stage of the NGRA framework is the determination of a point of departure (POD), characterising uncertainty and comparing to the consumer exposure in a WoE. Thorough evaluation of the sources of uncertainty is essential to ensure transparency and build trust in new risk assessment approaches. Although significant progress has been made, industry must continue to share its experience in skin sensitisation NGRA via case studies to demonstrate that this new risk assessment approach is protective for consumers. Dialogue and collaboration between key stakeholders, i.e. risk assessors, clinicians and regulators are important to gain mutual understanding and grow confidence in new approaches.

Non-animal methods to predict skin sensitization (II): an assessment of defined approaches *.

Skin sensitization is a toxicity endpoint of widespread concern, for which the mechanistic understanding and concurrent necessity for non-animal testing approaches have evolved to a critical juncture, with many available options for predicting sensitization without using animals. Cosmetics Europe and the National Toxicology Program Interagency Center for the Evaluation of Alternative Toxicological Methods collaborated to analyze the performance of multiple non-animal data integration approaches for the skin sensitization safety assessment of cosmetics ingredients. The Cosmetics Europe Skin Tolerance Task Force (STTF) collected and generated data on 128 substances in multiple in vitro and in chemico skin sensitization assays selected based on a systematic assessment by the STTF. These assays, together with certain in silico predictions, are key components of various non-animal testing strategies that have been submitted to the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development as case studies for skin sensitization. Curated murine local lymph node assay (LLNA) and human skin sensitization data were used to evaluate the performance of six defined approaches, comprising eight non-animal testing strategies, for both hazard and potency characterization. Defined approaches examined included consensus methods, artificial neural networks, support vector machine models, Bayesian networks, and decision trees, most of which were reproduced using open source software tools. Multiple non-animal testing strategies incorporating in vitro, in chemico, and in silico inputs demonstrated equivalent or superior performance to the LLNA when compared to both animal and human data for skin sensitization.

Non-animal methods to predict skin sensitization (I): the Cosmetics Europe database.

Cosmetics Europe, the European Trade Association for the cosmetics and personal care industry, is conducting a multi-phase program to develop regulatory accepted, animal-free testing strategies enabling the cosmetics industry to conduct safety assessments. Based on a systematic evaluation of test methods for skin sensitization, five non-animal test methods (DPRA (Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay), KeratinoSensTM, h-CLAT (human cell line activation test), U-SENSTM, SENS-IS) were selected for inclusion in a comprehensive database of 128 substances. Existing data were compiled and completed with newly generated data, the latter amounting to one-third of all data. The database was complemented with human and local lymph node assay (LLNA) reference data, physicochemical properties and use categories, and thoroughly curated. Focused on the availability of human data, the substance selection resulted nevertheless resulted in a high diversity of chemistries in terms of physico-chemical property ranges and use categories. Predictivities of skin sensitization potential and potency, where applicable, were calculated for the LLNA as compared to human data and for the individual test methods compared to both human and LLNA reference data. In addition, various aspects of applicability of the test methods were analyzed. Due to its high level of curation, comprehensiveness, and completeness, we propose our database as a point of reference for the evaluation and development of testing strategies, as done for example in the associated work of Kleinstreuer et al. We encourage the community to use it to meet the challenge of conducting skin sensitization safety assessment without generating new animal data.

Cosmetics Europe compilation of historical serious eye damage/eye irritation in vivo data analysed by drivers of classification to support the selection of chemicals for development and evaluation of alternative methods/strategies: the Draize eye test Reference Database (DRD).

A thorough understanding of which of the effects assessed in the in vivo Draize eye test are responsible for driving UN GHS/EU CLP classification is critical for an adequate selection of chemicals to be used in the development and/or evaluation of alternative methods/strategies and for properly assessing their predictive capacity and limitations. For this reason, Cosmetics Europe has compiled a database of Draize data (Draize eye test Reference Database, DRD) from external lists that were created to support past validation activities. This database contains 681 independent in vivo studies on 634 individual chemicals representing a wide range of chemical classes. A description of all the ocular effects observed in vivo, i.e. degree of severity and persistence of corneal opacity (CO), iritis, and/or conjunctiva effects, was added for each individual study in the database, and the studies were categorised according to their UN GHS/EU CLP classification and the main effect driving the classification. An evaluation of the various in vivo drivers of classification compiled in the database was performed to establish which of these are most important from a regulatory point of view. These analyses established that the most important drivers for Cat 1 Classification are (1) CO mean ≥ 3 (days 1-3) (severity) and (2) CO persistence on day 21 in the absence of severity, and those for Cat 2 classification are (3) CO mean ≥ 1 and (4) conjunctival redness mean ≥ 2. Moreover, it is shown that all classifiable effects (including persistence and CO = 4) should be present in ≥60 % of the animals to drive a classification. As a consequence, our analyses suggest the need for a critical revision of the UN GHS/EU CLP decision criteria for the Cat 1 classification of chemicals. Finally, a number of key criteria are identified that should be taken into consideration when selecting reference chemicals for the development, evaluation and/or validation of alternative methods and/or strategies for serious eye damage/eye irritation testing. Most important, the DRD is an invaluable tool for any future activity involving the selection of reference chemicals.

Significance of melanin distribution in the epidermis for the protective effect against UV light.

Melanin, the most abundant skin chromophore, is produced by melanocytes and is one of the key components responsible for mediating the skin's response to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Because of its antioxidant, radical scavenging, and broadband UV absorbing properties, melanin reduces the penetration of UVR into the nuclei of keratinocytes. Despite its long-established photoprotective role, there is evidence that melanin may also induce oxidative DNA damage in keratinocytes after UV exposure and therefore be involved in the development of melanoma. The present work aimed at evaluating the dependence of UV-induced DNA damage on melanin content and distribution, using reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models. Tanned and light RHE were irradiated with a 233 nm UV-C LED source at 60 mJ/cm2 and a UV lamp at 3 mJ/cm2. Higher UV-mediated free radicals and DNA damage were detected in tanned RHE with significantly higher melanin content than in light RHE. The melanin distribution in the individual models can explain the lack of photoprotection. Fluorescence lifetime-based analysis and Fontana-Masson staining revealed a non-homogeneous distribution and absence of perinuclear melanin in the tanned RHE compared to the in vivo situation in humans. Extracellularly dispersed epidermal melanin interferes with photoprotection of the keratinocytes.

Investigating the surfactant antagonism with the Open Source Reconstructed Epidermis (OS-Rep) model.

Under the current EU chemicals legislation, in vitro test methods became the preferred methods to identify and classify the skin irritation potential of chemicals and mixtures. Among these, especially in vitro skin models are widely used. For surfactants, a well-known group of typically irritating chemicals, it is a long-standing experience that the irritation potential of a mixture of surfactants is typically lower than the irritation potential of the single surfactants, an effect usually described as surfactant antagonism. In order to evaluate if this effect can be observed in skin model systems as well, the irritation potential of the surfactants and of their mixtures was determined in the Open Source Reconstructed Epidermis (OS-REp) models. Combinations of sodium dodecyl sulfate or linear alkylbenzene sulfonate with cocoamidopropyl betain and alkyl polyglycosid, respectively, resulted in a clear decrease of the irritation potential compared to the irritation exerted by the single surfactants. The effect appeared to be primarily driven by the mixture's lower ability to damage the skin model's barrier, as shown by a reduced fluorescein permeation.

A human 3D immune competent full-thickness skin model mimicking dermal dendritic cell activation.

We have integrated dermal dendritic cell surrogates originally generated from the cell line THP-1 as central mediators of the immune reaction in a human full-thickness skin model. Accordingly, sensitizer treatment of THP-1-derived CD14-, CD11c+ immature dendritic cells (iDCs) resulted in the phosphorylation of p38 MAPK in the presence of 1-chloro-2,4-dinitrobenzene (DNCB) (2.6-fold) as well as in degradation of the inhibitor protein kappa B alpha (IκBα) upon incubation with NiSO4 (1.6-fold). Furthermore, NiSO4 led to an increase in mRNA levels of IL-6 (2.4-fold), TNF-α (2-fold) and of IL-8 (15-fold). These results were confirmed on the protein level, with even stronger effects on cytokine release in the presence of NiSO4: Cytokine secretion was significantly increased for IL-8 (147-fold), IL-6 (11.8-fold) and IL-1ß (28.8-fold). Notably, DNCB treatment revealed an increase for IL-8 (28.6-fold) and IL-1ß (5.6-fold). Importantly, NiSO4 treatment of isolated iDCs as well as of iDCs integrated as dermal dendritic cell surrogates into our full-thickness skin model (SM) induced the upregulation of the adhesion molecule clusters of differentiation (CD)54 (iDCs: 1.2-fold; SM: 1.3-fold) and the co-stimulatory molecule and DC maturation marker CD86 (iDCs ~1.4-fold; SM:~1.5-fold) surface marker expression. Noteworthy, the expression of CD54 and CD86 could be suppressed by dexamethasone treatment on isolated iDCs (CD54: 1.3-fold; CD86: 2.1-fold) as well as on the tissue-integrated iDCs (CD54: 1.4-fold; CD86: 1.6-fold). In conclusion, we were able to integrate THP-1-derived iDCs as functional dermal dendritic cell surrogates allowing the qualitative identification of potential sensitizers on the one hand, and drug candidates that potentially suppress sensitization on the other hand in a 3D human skin model corresponding to the 3R principles ("replace", "reduce" and "refine").

Extending the applicability domain of the human cell line activation test (h-CLAT).

Cosmetic ingredients must be toxicologically assessed to determine their skin sensitizing potential. The in vitro human cell line activation test (h-CLAT; OECD TG 442E) addresses the activation of dermal dendritic cells by analyzing specific protein expression after exposure of THP-1 cells to the test chemical. According to the protocol, FITC-labeled antibodies are used for protein detection. However, some chemicals show strong autofluorescence at FITC-specific wavelengths so that antibody-specific signals cannot be distinguished appropriately from autofluorescence background. This leads to inconclusive or false-negative predictions. Alternative fluorochromes can be used if their equivalence with the FITC-labeled antibodies is proven. In the current paper we describe the results of a proficiency exercise, based on the proficiency chemicals listed in the guideline, with FITC-labeled antibodies as the benchmark and APC-labeled anti­bodies as an alternative detection system. APC emits fluorescence at longer wavelengths, thus avoiding interference in the FITC spectrum. Irrespective of the employed fluorochrome, all chemicals were classified correctly, and the EC150 and 200 values were in the same order of magnitude. Hence, the equivalence in performance of FITC- and APC-labeled antibodies was demonstrated, and the respective demand of the guideline was fulfilled. In a case study, we then tested a proprietary oxidative hair dye using both fluorochromes. Using APC-labeled antibodies, the hair dye was unambiguously identified as a sensitizer, whereas no classification could be made with the FITC-labeled antibodies. With APC, fluorescence interference can be circumvented and the applicability domain of the h-CLAT extended to include autofluorescent chemicals.

Evaluation of beneficial and adverse effects of glucocorticoids on a newly developed full-thickness skin model.

Glucocorticoids (GCs) are highly effective compounds widely used in the treatment of inflammatory diseases; however, they offer distinct adverse effects such as skin thinning in response to long-term topical treatment. Nevertheless it is difficult to deduce the safety of a newly synthesized compound from its structural formula. Efficient assay systems that measure beneficial and adverse effects are needed. In the present study the applicability of a three-dimensional full-thickness skin model (FTSM) is tested to display GC-induced effects regarding anti-inflammation and atrophy. It is shown that topical application of a commercial GC ointment suppresses the ultraviolet (UV)B induced induction of interleukin (IL)-6 and IL-8. Addition of purified betamethasone-17-valerate, prednicarbate and clobetasol-17-propionate to the culture medium for 14 days caused a reduction in the number of epidermal cell-layers corresponding to the atrophic risk found in vivo. Similarly, repeated topical application of five GC creams induced epidermal thinning. Evidence is given that the inhibitory effect on keratinocyte proliferation contributes to this effect. Furthermore, dermal thinning was monitored by measuring type I collagen synthesis; a decreased collagen synthesis similar to the in vivo situation is shown. The present study demonstrates the versatility of this FTSM in the validation of effectiveness and safety of GCs.

In vitro eye irritation testing using the open source reconstructed hemicornea - a ring trial.

The aim of the present ring trial was to test whether two new methodological approaches for the in vitro classification of eye irritating chemicals can be reliably transferred from the developers' laboratories to other sites. Both test methods are based on the well-established open source reconstructed 3D hemicornea models. In the first approach, the initial depth of injury after chemical treatment in the hemicornea model is derived from the quantitative analysis of histological sections. In the second approach, tissue viability, as a measure for corneal damage after chemical treatment, is analyzed separately for epithelium and stroma of the hemicornea model. The three independent laboratories that participated in the ring trial produced their own hemicornea models according to the test producer's instructions, thus supporting the open source concept. A total of 9 chemicals with different physicochemical and eye-irritating properties were tested to assess the between-laboratory reproducibility (BLR), the predictive performance, as well as possible limitations of the test systems. The BLR was 62.5% for the first and 100% for the second method. Both methods enabled to discriminate Cat. 1 chemicals from all non-Cat. 1 substances, which qualifies them to be used in a top-down approach. However, the selectivity between No Cat. and Cat. 2 chemicals still needs optimization.

Determining the Depth of Injury in Bioengineered Tissue Models of Cornea and Conjunctiva for the Prediction of All Three Ocular GHS Categories.

The depth of injury (DOI) is a mechanistic correlate to the ocular irritation response. Attempts to quantitatively determine the DOI in alternative tests have been limited to ex vivo animal eyes by fluorescent staining for biomarkers of cell death and viability in histological cross sections. It was the purpose of this study to assess whether DOI could also be measured by means of cell viability detected by the MTT assay using 3-dimensional (3D) reconstructed models of cornea and conjunctiva. The formazan-free area of metabolically inactive cells in the tissue after topical substance application is used as the visible correlate of the DOI. Areas of metabolically active or inactive cells are quantitatively analyzed on cryosection images with ImageJ software analysis tools. By incorporating the total tissue thickness, the relative MTT-DOI (rMTT-DOI) was calculated. Using the rMTT-DOI and human reconstructed cornea equivalents, we developed a prediction model based on suitable viability cut-off values. We tested 25 chemicals that cover the whole range of eye irritation potential based on the globally harmonized system of classification and labelling of chemicals (GHS). Principally, the MTT-DOI test method allows distinguishing between the cytotoxic effects of the different chemicals in accordance with all 3 GHS categories for eye irritation. Although the prediction model is slightly over-predictive with respect to non-irritants, it promises to be highly valuable to discriminate between severe irritants (Cat. 1), and mild to moderate irritants (Cat. 2). We also tested 3D conjunctiva models with the aim to specifically address conjunctiva-damaging substances. Using the MTT-DOI method in this model delivers comparable results as the cornea model, but does not add additional information. However, the MTT-DOI method using reconstructed cornea models already provided good predictability that was superior to the already existing established in vitro/ex vivo methods.

Vitellogenin from female and estradiol-stimulated male river lampreys (Lampetra fluviatilis L.).

The influence of estradiol-17beta (E(2)) on vitellogenesis is well documented for a number of oviparous craniates. We have examined the role that estradiol-17beta plays in the induction and regulation of vitellogenin synthesis in the maturing European river lamprey, Lampetra fluviatilis. In both females and males the estradiol-17beta concentrations in the plasma reached comparable maximum values in March, only a few weeks before spawning. Throughout the spawning run, the vitellogenin titer in the blood of females remains rather constant while the ovary volume increases. In contrast, we never found circulating VTG in untreated male lampreys. The synthesis and secretion of the yolk precursor molecule can be induced in males, however, by high doses of estradiol injected into the coelom. Lamprey vitellogenin was isolated from the blood of maturing females as well as from hormone-stimulated males and identified by its immunological and electrophoretic properties. In the blood plasma of both maturing female and estradiol-treated male lampreys it always appears simultaneously in two different molecular forms: a vitellogenin monomer with an apparent molecular weight of 310-330kDa and a dimer. After SDS treatment, vitellogenin is represented as a 212-kDa polypeptide.