Human filaggrin monomer does not seem to be a proteasome target.

Absence of a functional proteasome in the suprabasal layers of the epidermis is responsible for keratosis linearis with ichthyosis congenital and sclerosing keratoderma syndrome. Patient epidermis shows hypergranulosis associated with abnormally shaped keratohyalin granules and abnormal distribution of filaggrin in the Stratum granulosum and Stratum corneum. This suggests that the proteasome is involved in the degradation of filaggrin. To test this hypothesis, the proteasome proteolytic activity was inhibited in 3D reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) with the specific clasto-lactacystin ß-lactone inhibitor. Confirming the efficacy of inhibition, ubiquitinated proteins accumulated in treated RHEs as compared to controls. Levels of urocanic acid (UCA) and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), the end products of filaggrin degradation, were reduced. However, neither filaggrin accumulation nor appearance of filaggrin-derived peptides were observed. On the contrary, the amount of filaggrin was shown to decrease, and a similar tendency was observed for profilaggrin, its precursor. Accumulation of small cytoplasmic vesicles associated with a significant increase in autophagy markers indicated activation of the autophagy process upon proteasome inhibition. Taken together, these results suggest that the perturbation of UCA and PCA production after proteasome inhibition was probably due to down-regulation of filaggrin expression rather than to blocking of filaggrin proteolysis.

Use of human liver and EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions as a screening assays to compare the in vitro hepatic and dermal metabolism of 47 cosmetics-relevant chemicals.

The abundance of xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes (XMEs) is different in the skin and liver; therefore, it is important to differentiate between liver and skin metabolism when applying the information to safety assessment of topically applied ingredients in cosmetics. Here, we have employed EpiSkin™ S9 and human liver S9 to investigate the organ-specific metabolic stability of 47 cosmetic-relevant chemicals. The rank order of the metabolic rate of six chemicals in primary human hepatocytes and liver S9 matched relatively well. XME pathways in liver S9 were also present in EpiSkin S9; however, the rate of metabolism tended to be lower in the latter. It was possible to rank chemicals into low-, medium- and high-clearance chemicals and compare rates of metabolism across chemicals with similar structures. The determination of the half-life for 21 chemicals was affected by one or more factors such as spontaneous reaction with cofactors or non-specific binding, but these technical issues could be accounted for in most cases. There were seven chemicals that were metabolized by liver S9 but not by EpiSkin S9: 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, cinnamyl alcohol and 2-acetylaminofluorene (slowly metabolized); and cyclophosphamide, benzophenone, and 6-methylcoumarin. These data support the use of human liver and EpiSkin S9 as screening assays to indicate the liver and skin metabolic stability of a chemical and to allow for comparisons across structurally similar chemicals. Moreover, these data can be used to estimate the systemic bioavailability and clearance of chemicals applied topically, which will ultimately help with the safety assessment of cosmetics ingredients.

Comparison of the metabolism of 10 cosmetics-relevant chemicals in EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions and in vitro human skin explants.

An understanding of the bioavailability of topically applied cosmetics ingredients is key to predicting their local skin and systemic toxicity and making a safety assessment. We investigated whether short-term incubations with S9 from the reconstructed epidermal skin model, EpiSkin™, would give an indication of the rate of chemical metabolism and produce similar metabolites to those formed in incubations with human skin explants. Both have advantages: EpiSkin™ S9 is a higher-throughput assay, while the human skin explant model represents a longer incubation duration (24 hours) model integrating cutaneous distribution with metabolite formation. Here, we compared the metabolism of 10 chemicals (caffeine, vanillin, cinnamyl alcohol, propylparaben, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, 4-chloroaniline, 2-amino-3-methyl-3H-imidazo[4,5-F]quinoline and 2-acetyl aminofluorene) in both models. Both models were shown to have functional Phase 1 and 2 enzymes, including cytochrome P450 activities. There was a good concordance between the models with respect to the level of metabolism (stable vs. slowly vs. extensively metabolized chemicals) and major early metabolites produced for eight chemicals. Discordant results for two chemicals were attributed to a lack of the appropriate cofactor (NADP+ ) in S9 incubations (cinnamyl alcohol) and protein binding influencing chemical uptake in skin explants (4-chloroaniline). These data support the use of EpiSkin™ S9 as a screening assay to provide an initial indication of the metabolic stability of a chemical applied topically. If required, chemicals that are not metabolized by EpiSkin™ S9 can be tested in longer-term incubations with in vitro human explant skin to determine whether it is slowly metabolized or not metabolized at all.

Xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes in human skin and SkinEthic reconstructed human skin models.

Skin metabolism is becoming a major consideration in the development of new cosmetic ingredients, skin being the first organ exposed to them. In order to replace limited samples of Excised human skin (EHS), in vitro engineered human skins have been developed. 3D models are daily used to develop and evaluate new cosmetic ingredients and have to be characterized and compared with EHS in terms of metabolic capabilities. This work presents the determination of apparent catalytic parameters (apparent Vmax, Km and the ratio Vmax/Km) in 3D models compared with EHS for cytochrome P450 dependent monooxygenase isoforms involved in drug metabolism, esterases, alcohol dehydrogenases, aldehyde dehydrogenases, peroxidases, glutathione S-transferases, N-acetyl transferases, uridinyl diphosphate glucuronyl transferases and sulfotransferases. Results show that all these enzymes involved in the metabolism of xenobiotics are expressed and functional in the EHS and 3D models. Also, the Vmax/Km ratios (estimating the intrinsic metabolic clearances) show that the metabolic abilities are the most often comparable between the skin models and EHS. These results indicate that the 3D models can substitute themselves for EHS to select cosmetic ingredients on the basis of their metabolism, efficacy or/and safety.