Positive and ecobiological contribution in skin photoprotection of ectoine and mannitol combined in vivo with UV filters.

BACKGROUND: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes immunosuppression, photoaging, and carcinogenesis by induction of a cascade of skin damages. Sunscreens currently on the market are not absorbing UV rays uniformly throughout the full UV range, high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreens absorb most of UVB rays but are less effective in absorbing the UVA part of the spectrum. In the context, one approach could consist of preserving the skin natural resources and mechanisms, which is the foundation of the ecobiological approach, by combing UV filters and antioxidants to enhance their photoprotective effect. METHODS: First, the photoprotection properties of ectoine and mannitol association were characterized by the quantification of glutathione, reactive oxygen species, and double-stranded DNA breaks and by the epidermal Langerhans cells functionality. Second, the protection of squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and trans-urocanic acid (UCA) by the ectoine and mannitol association combined or not with SPF30 UV filters was assessed in vivo via non-invasive skin samplings in 10 subjects on irradiated areas. RESULTS: Using in vitro irradiated skin cell models, we demonstrated that this association significantly preserved intracellular glutathione levels, reduced DNA strand breaks induced by oxidative stress, and maintained Langerhans cell functionality. In vivo this association combined with UV filters presented significantly higher protection of three natural defense systems altered by UV compared to UV filters alone: squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and preservation of trans-UCA. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the ecobiological potential of combining UV filters with biological protection to increase skin photoprotection provided by specific active ingredients with antioxidative and immunosuppressive properties.

Assessment of a new biological complex efficacy on dysseborrhea, inflammation, and Propionibacterium acnes proliferation.

INTRODUCTION: Acne vulgaris is a common chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit triggered by Propionibacterium acnes. A bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract, and mannitol (BGM) complex has been developed to provide patients with acne with a specific dermocosmetic to be used adjunctively with conventional treatments. OBJECTIVE: The aim of these studies was to assess the antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative potential of BGM complex and its individual compounds as well as its impact on sebum composition. METHODS: The antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative potential of BGM complex and its compounds was assessed through in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies. The clinical benefit of BGM complex formulated in a cream was assessed in subjects prone to acne through sebum composition analysis and photometric assessments. RESULTS: Results from the studies showed that the BGM complex has significant antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative properties. At similar concentrations, bakuchiol has up to twice the antioxidative potential than vitamin E. In subjects, BGM complex regulated the sebum composition in acne patients by increasing the level of sapienic and linolenic acid and reducing the level of oleic acid. The reduced number of porphyrins on the skin surface showed that it is also effective against P. acnes. CONCLUSION: BGM complex provides a complete adjunctive care in patients with acne by targeting etiopathogenic factors of acne: dysseborrhea, inflammation, and P. acnes proliferation.

An appraisal of the need for infrared radiation protection in sunscreens.

Many sunscreens incorporate agents that are said to protect against infrared (IR) damage in the skin but we lack any real data on their benefit in the context of normal human behaviour in the sun. The object of this study was to examine typical IR exposure levels to the sun and industrial sources in order to decide whether there is a need for sunscreens to contain agents that protect against IR radiation, specifically the IR-A waveband. We reviewed claims currently made by products offering protection against IR-A and studies on the biological and clinical effects attributed to IR-A, and compared IR-A exposure levels from these studies with those typically received from the sun and from industrial sources. We found that annual levels of IR-A exposure resulting from typical behaviour in the sun are commensurate with those experienced occupationally by workers exposed to industrial sources of IR, such as steel and glass furnaces. Yet these workers appear to suffer little in the way of chronic skin damage. We conclude that there is not compelling evidence to demonstrate that observable, deleterious cutaneous effects are occurring at doses of solar IR radiation corresponding to those experienced by populations in their normal environments and for this reason we believe it is premature to incorporate IR protection into topical sunscreens and to make claims related to ageing of the skin that consumers may expect to see.