Vaccinium Species-Unexplored Sources of Active Constituents for Cosmeceuticals.

The genus Vaccinium is represented by shrubs growing in a temperate climate that have been used for ages as traditional remedies in the treatment of digestive problems, in diabetes, renal stones or as antiseptics due to the presence of polyphenols (anthocyanins, flavonoids and tannins) in their fruits and leaves. Recent studies confirm their marked potential in the treatment of skin disorders and as skin care cosmetics. The aim of this review is to present the role of Vaccinium spp. as cosmetic products, highlight their potential and prove the biological properties exerted by the extracts from different species that can be useful for the preparation of innovative cosmetics. In the manuscript both skin care and therapeutic applications of the representatives of this gender will be discussed that include the antioxidant, skin lightening, UV-protective, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and chemopreventive properties to shed new light on these underestimated plants.

Chemical profiling of botanical extracts obtained in NADES systems using centrifugal partition chromatography combined with 13 C NMR dereplication-Hypericum perforatum as a case study.

INTRODUCTION: Natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) have emerged as interesting extractants to develop botanical ingredients. They are nontoxic and biodegradable, nonflammable, easy to prepare, and able to solubilize a wide range of molecules. However, NADES extracts remain difficult to analyze because the metabolites of interest stay highly diluted in the nonvolatile viscous NADES matrix. OBJECTIVE: This study presents a robust analytical workflow for the chemical profiling of NADES extracts. It is applied to Hypericum perforatum aerial parts extracted with the neutral mixture fructose/glycerol/water (3/1/1, w/w/w), and compared to the chemical profiling of a classical dry methanol extract. METHODS: Exploiting polarity differences between metabolites, the H. perforatum NADES extract was partitioned in a liquid-liquid solvent system to trap the hydrophilic NADES constituents in the lower phase. The upper phase, containing a diversity of secondary metabolites from H. perforatum, was fractionated by centrifugal partition chromatography. All fractions were chemically investigated using a 13 C NMR dereplication method which involves hierarchical clustering analysis of the whole NMR dataset, a natural metabolite database for metabolite identification, and 2D NMR analyses for validation. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) analyses were also performed to complete the identification process. RESULTS: A range of 21 metabolites were unambiguously identified, including glycosylated flavonols, lactones, catechins, phenolic acids, lipids, and simple sugars, and 15 additional minor extract constituents were annotated by LC-MS based on exact mass measurements. CONCLUSION: The proposed identification process is rapid and nondestructive and provides good prospects to deeply characterize botanical extracts obtained in nonvolatile and viscous NADES systems.

Rapid Chemical Profiling of Filipendula ulmaria Using CPC Fractionation, 2-D Mapping of 13C NMR Data, and High-Resolution LC-MS.

Filipendula ulmaria, commonly known as meadowsweet, is a wild herbaceous flowering plant that is widely distributed in Europe. A range of salicylic acid derivatives and flavonol glycosides have been previously associated with the antirheumatic and diuretic properties of F. ulmaria. In the present work, a hydroalcoholic extract from F. ulmaria aerial parts was extensively profiled using an efficient NMR-based dereplication strategy. The approach involves the fractionation of the crude extract by centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC), 13C NMR analysis of the fractions, 2D-cluster mapping of the entire NMR dataset, and, finally, structure elucidation using a natural metabolite database, validated by 2D NMR data interpretation and liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. The chemodiversity of the aerial parts was extensive, with 28 compounds unambiguously identified, spanning various biosynthetic classes. The F. ulmaria extract and CPC fractions were screened for their potential to enhance skin epidermal barrier function and skin renewal properties using in vitro assays performed on Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes. Fractions containing quercetin, kaempferol glycosides, ursolic acid, pomolic acid, naringenin, ß-sitosterol, and Tellimagrandins I and II were found to upregulate genes related to skin barrier function, epidermal renewal, and stress responses. This research is significant as it could provide a natural solution for improving hydration and skin renewal properties.

Enzymatic Synthesis of α-Glucosyl-Baicalin through Transglucosylation via Cyclodextrin Glucanotransferase in Water.

Baicalin is a biologically active flavone glucuronide with poor water solubility that can be enhanced via glucosylation. In this study, the transglucosylation of baicalin was successfully achieved with CGTases from Thermoanaerobacter sp. and Bacillus macerans using α-cyclodextrin as a glucosyl donor. The synthesis of baicalin glucosides was optimized with CGTase from Thermoanaerobacter sp. Enzymatically modified baicalin derivatives were α-glucosylated with 1 to 17 glucose moieties. The two main glucosides were identified as Baicalein-7-O-α-D-Glucuronidyl-(1→4')-O-α-D-Glucopyranoside (BG1) and Baicalein-7-O-α-D-Glucuronidyl-(1→4')-O-α-D-Maltoside (BG2), thereby confirming recent findings reporting that glucuronyl groups are acceptors of this CGTase. Optimized conditions allowed for the attainment of yields above 85% (with a total glucoside content higher than 30 mM). BG1 and BG2 were purified via centrifugal partition chromatography after an enrichment through deglucosylation with amyloglucosidase. Transglucosylation increased the water solubility of BG1 by a factor of 188 in comparison to that of baicalin (molar concentrations), while the same value for BG2 was increased by a factor of 320. Finally, BG1 and BG2 were evaluated using antioxidant and anti-glycation assays. Both glucosides presented antioxidant and anti-glycation properties in the same order of magnitude as that of baicalin, thereby indicating their potential biological activity.

From Coffee Waste to Active Ingredient for Cosmetic Applications.

Coffee silverskin (CS) is the thin epidermis covering and protecting the coffee bean and it represents the main by-product of the coffee roasting process. CS has recently gained attention due to its high content in bioactive molecules and the growing interest in valuable reutilization of waste products. Drawing inspiration from its biological function, here its potential in cosmetic applications was investigated. CS was recovered from one of the largest coffee roasters located in Switzerland and processed through supercritical CO2 extraction, thereby generating coffee silverskin extract. Chemical profiling of this extract revealed the presence of potent molecules, among which cafestol and kahweol fatty acid esters, as well as acylglycerols, ß-sitosterol and caffeine. The CS extract was then dissolved in organic shea butter, yielding the cosmetic active ingredient SLVR'Coffee™. In vitro gene expression studies performed on keratinocytes showed an upregulation of genes involved in oxidative stress responses and skin-barrier functionality upon treatment with the coffee silverskin extract. In vivo, our active protected the skin against Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)-induced irritation and accelerated its recovery. Furthermore, this active extract improved measured as well as perceived skin hydration in female volunteers, making it an innovative, bioinspired ingredient that comforts the skin and benefits the environment.

Anti-Toxoplasma gondii effect of lupane-type triterpenes from the bark of black alder (Alnus glutinosa) and identification of a potential target by reverse docking.

Toxoplasmosis is a worldwide parasitosis that is generally benign. The infestation may pose a risk to immunocompromized patients and to fetuses when pregnant women have recently seroconverted. Current treatments have numerous side effects and chemoresistance is emerging, hence the need to find new anti-Toxoplasma gondii substances. This study focuses on the antiparasitic potential of lupane-type pentacyclic triterpenes isolated from the bark of black alder (Alnus glutinosa), as well as the hypothesis of their macromolecular target by an original method of reverse docking. Among the isolated triterpenes, betulone was the most active compound with an IC50 of 2.7 ± 1.2 µM, a CC50 greater than 80 µM, and a selectivity index of over 29.6. An additional study of the anti-T. gondii potential of commercially available compounds (betulonic acid methyl ester and betulonic acid) showed the important role of the C3 ketone function and the C28 oxidation level on the lupane-type triterpene in the antiparasitic activity since their IC50 and CC50 were similar to that of betulone. Finally, the most active compounds were subjected to the AMIDE reverse docking workflow. A dataset of 87 T. gondii proteins from the Protein Data Bank was created. It identified calcium-dependent protein kinase CDPK3 as the most likely target of betulin derivatives.

TITLE: Potentiel anti-Toxoplasma gondii de triterpènes de type lupane de l'écorce de l'aulne glutineux, Alnus glutinosa, et identification d'une cible potentielle par docking inverse. ABSTRACT: La toxoplasmose est une parasitose mondiale, généralement bénigne. Les personnes à risque sont les patients immunodéprimés et les fœtus chez les femmes enceintes nouvellement séroconverties. Les traitements actuels ont de nombreux effets secondaires et des phénomènes de chimiorésistance apparaissent, d'où la nécessité de trouver de nouvelles substances actives contre T. gondii. Cette étude porte sur le potentiel antiparasitaire des triterpènes pentacycliques de type lupane isolés de l'écorce de l'aulne glutineux (Alnus glutinosa) et formule une hypothèse quant à leur cible protéique par l'utilisation d'une méthode originale de docking inverse. Parmi les triterpènes isolés, la bétulone s'est révélée être la plus active avec une CI50 de 2,7 µM ± 1,2 µM, une CC50 supérieure à 80 µM et un indice de sélectivité supérieur à 29,6. L'étude complémentaire du potentiel anti-T. gondii de composés disponibles commercialement et analogues à la bétulone (acide bétulonique et methyl ester de l'acide bétulonique) a montré le rôle important de la fonction cétone en C3 et du degré d'oxydation de la position 28 du squelette triterpénique de type lupane dans l'activité antiparasitaire puisque leurs CI50 et CC50 étaient similaires aux valeurs rencontrées pour la bétulone. Enfin, les composés les plus actifs ont été soumis au flux de travail de docking inverse d'AMIDE. Un ensemble de 87 protéines de T. gondii de la Protein Data Bank a été créé. La protéine kinase calcium dépendante CDPK3 a été identifiée comme la cible la plus probable des dérivés de la bétuline.

Investigation of Antiparasitic Activity of 10 European Tree Bark Extracts on Toxoplasma gondii and Bioguided Identification of Triterpenes in Alnus glutinosa Barks.

Toxoplasmosis is a worldwide parasitosis that affects one-third of the population. People at risk, such as immunocompromised patients (AIDS, chemotherapy treatment) or fetuses (maternal-fetal transmission) can develop severe forms of the disease. The antiparasitic activity of extracts of different polarities (n-heptane, MeOH, MeOH/H2O) of 10 tree species endemic to temperate regions was investigated against Toxoplasma gondii infection in vitro. Our results showed that the n-heptane extract of the black alder (Alnus glutinosa) exhibited a significant antiparasitic activity without any cytotoxicity at the tested concentrations, with an IC50 of up to 25.08 µg/mL and a selectivity index higher than 3.99. The chemical profiling of this extract revealed triterpenes as major constituents. The ability of commercially available triterpene (betulin, betulinic acid, and betulone) to inhibit the growth of T. gondii was evaluated and showed growth inhibition rates of 44%, 49%, and 99% at 10 µM, respectively.

Bacterial rhamnolipids and their 3-hydroxyalkanoate precursors activate Arabidopsis innate immunity through two independent mechanisms.

Plant innate immunity is activated upon perception of invasion pattern molecules by plant cell-surface immune receptors. Several bacteria of the genera Pseudomonas and Burkholderia produce rhamnolipids (RLs) from l-rhamnose and (R)-3-hydroxyalkanoate precursors (HAAs). RL and HAA secretion is required to modulate bacterial surface motility, biofilm development, and thus successful colonization of hosts. Here, we show that the lipidic secretome from the opportunistic pathogen Pseudomonas aeruginosa, mainly comprising RLs and HAAs, stimulates Arabidopsis immunity. We demonstrate that HAAs are sensed by the bulb-type lectin receptor kinase LIPOOLIGOSACCHARIDE-SPECIFIC REDUCED ELICITATION/S-DOMAIN-1-29 (LORE/SD1-29), which also mediates medium-chain 3-hydroxy fatty acid (mc-3-OH-FA) perception, in the plant Arabidopsis thaliana HAA sensing induces canonical immune signaling and local resistance to plant pathogenic Pseudomonas infection. By contrast, RLs trigger an atypical immune response and resistance to Pseudomonas infection independent of LORE. Thus, the glycosyl moieties of RLs, although abolishing sensing by LORE, do not impair their ability to trigger plant defense. Moreover, our results show that the immune response triggered by RLs is affected by the sphingolipid composition of the plasma membrane. In conclusion, RLs and their precursors released by bacteria can both be perceived by plants but through distinct mechanisms.

Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy.

OBJECTIVE: Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin. METHOD: In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers. RESULTS: We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue. CONCLUSION: In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids.

OBJECTIF: Les lipides de la peau sont essentiels dans chaque compartiment de la peau où ils jouent un rôle clé dans diverses fonctions biologiques. Il est intéressant de noter que leur rôle est central dans le maintien de l'hydratation, liée à la fonction de barrière cutanée, mais aussi dans la structure même de la peau, par le biais du tissu adipeux. Il est bien décrit aujourd'hui que les lipides de la peau sont affectés par le vieillissement, ce qui entraîne un relâchement de la peau, des rides et une sécheresse. Ainsi, le développement d'actifs cosmétiques capables de réactiver les lipides de la peau serait une stratégie efficace de lutte contre le vieillissement. En raison de l'engagement fort de nos scientifiques à innover de manière responsable et à créer de la valeur, ils ont conçus un ingrédient actif à forte valeur ajoutée, appelé ici extrait de Vétiver, en utilisant une approche révolutionnaire de « up-cycling ¼. Nous avons démontré que cet extrait unique était capable de réactiver globalement la production de lipides de la peau, apportant une hydratation de la peau et un effet repulpant pour les peaux matures. MÉTHODES: Afin de démontrer le renouvellement global des lipides, nous avons évalué la synthèse des lipides sur les cellules cutanées qui produisent des lipides tels que les kératinocytes, les sébocytes et les adipocytes, puis sur un modèle d'Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et les explants de peau. Nous avons évalué l'expression des protéines impliquées dans le transport des céramides et la kératinisation de la barrière cutanée. Nous avons ensuite évalué l'hydratation et les paramètres sébacés sur un panel de volontaires matures. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons tout d'abord démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver induit la production de sébum à partir de lignées cellulaires de sébocytes humains mais améliore également sa qualité comme l'indique la production de lipides antimicrobiens spécifiques. Ensuite, nous avons démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver était capable de restaurer la barrière cutanée grâce à l'augmentation de la néosynthèse lipidique sur un modèle d'Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et sur des explants de peau. Nous avons également démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver stimulait le transport des lipides et la kératinisation de l'épiderme. Enfin, l'extrait de Vétiver a montré un effet significatif sur l'adipogenèse et la maturation des adipocytes dans des modèles in vitro et ex vivo. Nous avons confirmé à l'échelle clinique toutes ces activités en montrant que l'extrait de Vétiver améliorait la production de sébum et apportait une hydratation grâce à une augmentation de la teneur en lipides ainsi qu'une modification de leur conformation. L'extrait de Vétiver a induit une amélioration de la fatigue cutanée et un effet repulpant en agissant en profondeur sur le tissu adipeux. CONCLUSION: En conclusion, nous avons développé un ingrédient actif capable d'apporter un effet anti-âge aux peaux matures par une augmentation globale des lipides de la peau.

Chemical Profile and Antimicrobial Activity of the Fungus-Growing Termite Strain Macrotermes Bellicosus Used in Traditional Medicine in the Republic of Benin.

The fungus growing termite species Macrotermes bellicosus (M. bellicosus) is used in nutrition and traditional medicine in the Republic of Benin for the treatment of infectious and inflammatory diseases. Previous findings demonstrated evidence of anti-inflammatory and spasmolytic properties of M. bellicosus. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the antimicrobial potential of different extracts of M. bellicosus samples and determine the chemical profile of an ethanolic M. bellicosus extract. Chemical profiling was conducted using centrifugal partition chromatography and 13C-NMR, followed by MALDI-TOF MS. Major identified compounds include hydroquinone (HQ), methylhydroquinone (MHQ), 3,4-dihydroxyphenethyl glycol (DHPG), N-acetyldopamine (NADA) and niacinamide. The fatty acid mixture of the extract was mainly composed of linoleic and oleic acid and highlights the nutritional purpose of M. bellicosus. Using the Kirby-Bauer disc diffusion and broth microdilution assay, an antibacterial activity of M. bellicosus samples was observed against various clinical strains with a highest growth inhibition of S. aureus. In addition, HQ and MHQ as well as fractions containing DHPG, niacinamide and NADA inhibited S. aureus growth. The reported antimicrobial activity of M. bellicosus and identified active substances provide a rationale for the traditional medicinal use of M. bellicosus.