Anti-melanogenic activity of salacinol by inhibition of tyrosinase oligosaccharide processing.

Hyperpigmentation that manifests through melasma and solar lentigo (age spots), although mostly harmless for health, bothers many people. Controlling the rate-limiting activity of tyrosinase is most effective for suppressing excessive melanin formation and accordingly recent research has focused on the maturation of tyrosinase. Salacia, a medicinal plant, has been used to treat diabetes in India and Sri Lanka. Salacia extract reportedly contains components that inhibit the activity of α-glucosidase. Salacinol, the active ingredient in Salacia extract, has unique thiosugar sulphonium sulphate inner salt structure. Here, we observed that the salacinol component of Salacia extract possesses anti-melanogenic activity in comparison to various existing whitening agents. Although the anti-melanogenic mechanism of salacinol is presumably medicated by inhibition of tyrosinase activity, which is often found in existing whitening agents, salacinol did not inhibit tyrosinase activity in vitro. Analysis of the intracellular state of tyrosinase showed a decrease in the mature tyrosinase form due to inhibition of N-linked oligosaccharide processing. Salacinol inhibited the processing glucosidase I/II, which are involved in the initial stage of N-linked glycosylation. Owing to high activity, low cytotoxicity and high hydrophilicity, salacinol is a promising candidate compound in whitening agents aimed for external application on skin.

Topical treatments with acylceramide dispersions restored stratum corneum lipid lamellar structures in a reconstructed human epidermis model.

Long-periodicity phase (LPP) lamellar structures in intercellular lipid matrixes of the stratum corneum (SC) are considered important for maintenance of skin permeability barriers. Acylceramides are essential components of LPP structures, and their absence influences skin barriers under physiological and pathological conditions, such as atopic dermatitis and dry skin. Although topical applications of acylceramide have been shown to facilitate maintenance of the skin barrier, it is unknown whether topically applied acylceramides are incorporated into intercellular lipids to form LPP structures. Thus, we assessed the effects of topical treatments with monomodal acylceramides on the formation of LPP structures in a surfactant-insulted reconstructed human epidermis model using small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and transmission electron microscopy (TEM) analyses. In SAXS experiments, LPP structures give rise to a diffraction peak which indicates the presence of a structure with a 13 nm real space repeat distance. LPP patterns of intercellular lipid matrixes in the SC were disrupted' by surfactant treatments and were recovered by topical acylceramide treatments. TEM images also showed specific repeating patterns of LPP structures, indicating that topical acylceramide treatments facilitate recovery of LPP structures in the SC. The present data show that the application of acylceramides might temporarily modify the lipid structure to resemble that of normal skin although the underlying cause of dry or diseased skin is not fully clarified.

Melanosome degradation in epidermal keratinocytes related to lysosomal protease cathepsin V.

The cause of hyperpigmentation, such as solar lentigo and seborrheic keratosis, is the excessive accumulation of melanin pigments in the epidermal basal layer. Melanin pigments are synthesized in the melanosomes, which are specific organelles produced by melanocytes in the basal layer. Melanosomes containing melanin pigments are transported to the neighboring keratinocytes. However, the behavior of melanosomes after being transported to the keratinocytes has been poorly understood. In this study, we focused on a lysosomal protease cathepsin V (CTSV) to clarify the mechanism underlying melanosome degradation in the keratinocytes. Using immunohistochemical observation, we found that CTSV was highly expressed across the entire epidermis in normal skin; however, CTSV expression levels were lower in the basal layer than those in the stratum corneum side in the hyperpigmented region. Moreover, we found that melanosome degradation was suppressed in CTSV knockdown cells. These results indicated that CTSV is involved in melanosome degradation.