A tiered approach to the use of alternatives to animal testing for the safety assessment of cosmetics: eye irritation.

The need for alternative approaches to replace the in vivo rabbit Draize eye test for evaluation of eye irritation of cosmetic ingredients has been recognised by the cosmetics industry for many years. Extensive research has lead to the development of several assays, some of which have undergone formal validation. Even though, to date, no single in vitro assay has been validated as a full replacement for the rabbit Draize eye test, organotypic assays are accepted for specific and limited regulatory purposes. Although not formally validated, several other in vitro models have been used for over a decade by the cosmetics industry as valuable tools in a weight of evidence approach for the safety assessment of ingredients and finished products. In light of the deadlines established in the EU Cosmetics Directive for cessation of animal testing for cosmetic ingredients, a COLIPA scientific meeting was held in Brussels on 30th January, 2008 to review the use of alternative approaches and to set up a decision-tree approach for their integration into tiered testing strategies for hazard and safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients and their use in products. Furthermore, recommendations are given on how remaining data gaps and research needs can be addressed.

Characterization of early events involved in human dendritic cell maturation induced by sensitizers: cross talk between MAPK signalling pathways.

Dendritic cells (DCs), efficient-antigen presenting cells play an important role in initiating and regulating immune responses. DC maturation following exposure to nickel or DNCB induced an up-regulation of phenotypic markers and inflammatory cytokine secretion. Early intracellular mechanisms involved in DC maturation required to be precise. To address this purpose, DCs derived from human monocytes were treated with sensitizers (nickel, DNCB or thimerosal) in comparison with an irritant (SDS). Our data confirming the up-regulation of CD86, CD54 and cytokine secretion (IL-8 and TNFalpha) induced by sensitizers but not by SDS, signalling transduction involved in DC maturation was investigated using these chemicals. Kinase activity measurement was assessed using two new sensitive procedures (Facetrade mark and CBA) requiring few cells. SDS did not induce changes in signalling pathways whereas NiSO(4), DNCB and thimerosal markedly activated p38 MAPK and JNK, in contrast Erk1/2 phosphorylation was completely inhibited by DNCB or thimerosal and only activated by nickel. A pre-treatment with p38 MAPK inhibitor (SB203580) suppressed Erk1/2 inhibition induced by DNCB or thimerosal demonstrating a direct interaction between p38 MAPK and Erk1/2. A pre-treatment with an antioxidant, N-acetyl-L-cysteine (NAC) markedly reduced Erk1/2 inhibition and p38 MAPK phosphorylation induced by DNCB and thimerosal, suggesting a direct activation of p38 MAPK via an oxidative stress and a regulation of MAPK signalling pathways depending on chemicals. Because of a high sensitivity of kinase activity measurements, these procedures will be suitable for weak or moderate sensitizer screening.

Skin ageing: clinical and histopathologic study of permanent and reducible wrinkles.

Wrinkles are modifications of the skin associated with cutaneous ageing and develop preferentially on sun-exposed skin. The aim of the study was to analyse the clinicopathological features of wrinkles, among the different types of skin relief modifications. Despite its importance in dermato-cosmetology and skin ageing, few studies have been specifically devoted to wrinkles. In the present study, we analyzed the histological features of the pre-auricular wrinkle compared to retro-auricular skin, obtained from sixteen patients undergoing facial surgery; skin samples were immediately processed for routine histology and histochemical staining. Four types of skin depressions could be defined according to their depth: folds, permanent wrinkles, reducible wrinkles and skin micro-relief. Two different types of pre-auricular wrinkles were observed: (i) permanent wrinkles which were conserved after sampling and, (ii) reducible wrinkles which required in vivo staining to be visible at histology. Histological analysis of the epidermis and dermis of the skin forming the pre-auricular wrinkle revealed a normal skin morphology, identical to that of the skin immediately adjacent to the wrinkle. This was particularly striking for the reducible wrinkles which could not be individualized in the absence of in vivo staining. Both types of wrinkles comprised skin modifications observed in sun-exposed skin, however, in the upper dermis, permanent wrinkles showed a more pronounced accumulation of basophilic fibers, i.e. actinic elastosis, than reducible wrinkles did. These data suggest that the development of wrinkles could be secondary to actinic elastosis and to the disappearance of microfibrils and collagen fibers at the dermal-epidermal junction.