Noninvasive evaluation of the skin barrier in reconstructed human epidermis using speckle analysis: Correlation with Raman microspectroscopy.

BACKGROUND: Reconstructed epidermis models, obtained from 3D keratinocytes culture, have gained significant prominence as prototypes for safety and efficacy testing in skin research. To effectively evaluate these models, it is essential to perform molecular and functional characterization. The skin's barrier function is one of the essential aspects of the epidermis that needs to be assessed. A noninvasive method is thus required for the evaluation of the skin barrier in these models. With this perspective, the aim of this feasibility study is to apply the speckle technique for the assessment of the skin barrier in the Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE). MATERIALS AND METHODS: Speckle analysis as well as Raman microspectroscopy were performed on RHE samples at two maturation days, D17 and D20. RESULTS: Between D17 and D20, our study showed an increase in various Raman parameters, including stratum corneum percentage, lateral lipid packing, lipid-to-protein ratio, and protein secondary structure. Furthermore, the degree of light polarization and the speckle grain size also increased over this period. CONCLUSION: The speckle technique proved to be effective for evaluating the skin barrier in Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) models. Comparison with Raman validates this approach and provides comprehensive molecular and functional characterization of reconstructive skin models.

Strat-M® positioning for skin permeation studies: A comparative study including EpiSkin® RHE, and human skin.

In the development and optimization of dermatological products, In Vitro Permeation Testing (IVPT) is pivotal for controlled study of skin penetration. To enhance standardization and replicate human skin properties reconstructed human skin and synthetic membranes are explored as alternatives. Strat-M® is a membrane designed to mimic the multi-layered structure of human skin for IVPT. For instance, in Strat-M®, the steady-state fluxes (JSS) of resorcinol in formulations free of permeation enhancers were found to be 41 ± 5 µg/cm2·h for the aqueous solution, 42 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the hydrogel, and 40 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the oil-in-water emulsion. These results were closer to excised human skin (5 ± 3, 9 ± 2, 13 ± 6 µg/cm2·h) and surpassed the performance of EpiSkin® RHE (138 ± 5, 142 ± 6, and 162 ± 11 µg/cm2·h). While mass spectrometry and Raman microscopy demonstrated the qualitative molecular similarity of EpiSkin® RHE to human skin, it was the porous and hydrophobic polymer nature of Strat-M® that more faithfully reproduced the skin's diffusion-limiting barrier. Further validation through similarity factor analysis (∼80-85%) underscored Strat-M®'s significance as a reliable substitute for human skin, offering a promising approach to enhance realism and reproducibility in dermatological product development.

Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part I, protective role of skin surface lipids.

This study used Raman spectroscopy to develop a new approach to evaluate the effects of solar radiation on the stratum corneum (SC). The method measures the SC's hydration and dehydration kinetics by calculating the vOH/vCH ratio to monitor the relative water content during the drying process. The study also investigated the role of skin surface lipids (SSLs) in protecting the SC from solar radiation. The SSLs film is a complex mixture of free fatty acids, triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, free and esterified cholesterols, that play a crucial role in the skin's barrier function. The results showed that solar radiation alters the water content and balance within the SC, and SSLs provide protection by acting as an optical filter by absorbing some of the energy of the solar light. This is confirmed by high temperature gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analyses by revealing a decrease in specific lipids after irradiating the SSLs .

Characterization of triglycerides photooxidation under solar radiations: A stepwise Raman study.

Triglycerides (TGs) are one of the main components of the glycerolipid family. Their main task in cells is to store excess fatty acids. TG energy storage is mainly concentrated in adipocytes. TGs and free fatty acids constitute the majority (57.5%) of the skin surface lipids (SSLs). TGs are essential for the formation of the skin water barrier. This work is the second part of a global study that aims to evaluate the effect of solar radiations on SSLs using vibrational spectroscopy. In the first part of this work, a stepwise characterization of free fatty acids was performed, and different spectral descriptors were used to follow the different structural modifications during the photo-oxidation process, that is hydrogen abstraction, formation of hydroperoxides and peroxyl radicals as primary oxidation products and the formation of aldehydes, ketones, alcohol as secondary products. In this second part, the photo-oxidation of TGs was evaluated using Raman spectroscopy. A decrease in the CH2/CH3 stretching bands ratio that confirmed the hydrogen abstraction, an increase in the 1165/1740 cm-1 ((δ(OH) and υ(C-O))/ν(C=O) (ester)) ratio indicated the formation of secondary oxidation products such as hydroperoxides. And finally, an increase in the 1725/1740 cm-1 (υ(C=O) (ald.)/υ(C=O) (ester)) ratio and the trans ν(C=C)/cis ν(C=C) ratio highlighted the formation of aldehydes, alcohols, ketone, trans secondary products and others.

Stratum corneum ceramide profiles in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo: characterization of the α-hydroxy double esterified ceramides.

The presence of a new ceramide subclass, the 1-O-acyl omega-linoleoyloxy ceramides [1-O-E (EO) Cer], has been previously highlighted in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). These ceramides are double esterified on two positions. The first is the 1-O position of the sphingoid base moiety with a long to very long chain of acyl residues (1-O-E), and the second is the position of the ω-hydroxyl group of the fatty acid moiety with linoleic acid (EO). Considering its chemical structure and hydrophobicity, this subclass can contribute to the skin barrier. Thus, it is important to determine whether this subclass is also present in native human stratum corneum (SC). This work compares ceramide structures of this novel subclass between RHE (in vitro) and two sources of human SC (in vivo and ex vivo) using normal-phase high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry (NP-HPLC/HR-MSn). The results confirm the presence of this double esterified ceramide subclass [1-O-E (EO) Cer] in human SC. The molecular profile obtained from the RHE was very close to that found in the human SC (in vivo and ex vivo). In addition, thanks to the targeted MS2/MS3 analysis, a new ceramide subclass was discovered and characterized in the three studied samples. We propose to name it [A-1-O-E (EO) Cer] because in these ceramides species, the fatty acid-esterified with the sphingoid base on the 1-O position-is hydroxylated on the α position. These results highlight the potential of both the analytical method and the characterization approach employed in this study.

EBT3 Gafchromic® film as a new substrate for in vitro evaluation of sun protection factor.

There exist different methods for the determination of sun protection factor (SPF) values for sunscreens. We aimed to develop a new in vitro method using EBT3 Gafchromic® film as a substrate. The colour of EBT3 Gafchromic® film changes when exposed to UV light. Films were covered by sunscreen preparations of different SPF values ranging from 0 to 50. Uncovered and covered films were exposed to different solar light energies and their colour change was compared. Absorbance spectra of films was measured at 633 nm using a UV-VIS spectrophotometer apparatus. The colour of the film darkens when ultraviolet energy increases, which means that absorbance increases with exposure time. However, when films are covered by sunscreens, the colour change is less visible and the absorbance significantly decreases with increasing SPF value. There is a linear correlation between the absorbance of EBT3 Gafchromic® film and SPF value of sunscreens covering the film. Statistical analysis demonstrated that the SPF value of a sunscreen can be predicted using EBT3 Gafchromic® film as a substrate. This is the first report of an in vitro method based on colour change of a substrate which takes into consideration exposure time, and relates more closely to conditions of real-life. Based on these parameters, this is a reliable in vitro method for SPF testing.

Raman confocal microscopy and biophysics multiparametric characterization of the skin barrier evolution with age.

Skin aging is a multifactorial phenomenon that involves alterations at the molecular, cellular and tissue levels. Our aim was to carry out a multiparametric biophysical and Raman characterization of skin barrier between individuals of different age groups (<24 and >70 years old). Our results showed a significant decrease of lipids to proteins ratio overall the thickness of the stratum corneum and higher lateral packing in the outer part of the SC for elderly. This can explain the decrease in trans epidermal water loss measured values rather than only SC thickening. Both age groups showed similar water content at SC surface while elderly presented higher water content in deep SC and viable epidermis. Mechanical measurements showed a decrease in the elasticity and an increase in the fatigability with age and were correlated with partially bound water. Highest correlation and anti-correlation values were observed for the deepest part of the SC and the viable epidermis.

Assessment of the skin barrier function in the reconstructed human epidermis using a multimodal approach at molecular, tissue and functional levels.

Reconstructed human epidermis models are used as epidermis alternatives in skin research studies. It is necessary to provide molecular and functional characterization in order to assess these models. Our aim is to establish a link between the barrier function and the structure and composition of the stratum corneum using several complementary techniques. The following three studies were performed on reconstructed human epidermis during the keratinocyte differentiation process: (i) caffeine percutaneous penetration kinetics, (ii) epidermis thickness measurement, stratum corneum formation and lipid organization by Raman microspectroscopy and (iii) lipid composition evolution by liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry. The results demonstrated that the caffeine penetration decreased along the differentiation process. Raman in-depth images demonstrated an increase in stratum corneum and RHE thickness accompanied by the evolution of lipid organization. Lipid analysis showed an increase of the ceramide amount and an inverse relationship between ceramide and its precursor levels during the differentiation process. Different behaviors between several ceramide subclasses are highlighted and they relied on the corresponding differentiation stages. The generation of the most important ceramides for the barrier function is closely followed. A period shift between lipid generation and their organization was found. Our analytical data allowed identifying the following 3 groups of maturation days: before day 15, between days 15 and 19, and after day 19. The chemical and physiological states of the barrier function for each group are described thanks to a multimodal approach.

Biomolecular modifications during keratinocyte differentiation: Raman spectroscopy and chromatographic techniques.

From the basal layer until the stratum corneum, lipid and protein biomarkers associated with morphological changes denote keratinocyte differentiation and characterize each epidermis layer. Herein, we followed keratinocyte differentiation in the early stages using HaCaT cells over a period of two weeks by two complementary analytical techniques: Raman microspectroscopy and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with high resolution mass spectrometry. A high concentration of calcium in the medium induced HaCaT cell differentiation in vitro. The results from both techniques underlined the keratinocyte passage from the granular layer (day 9) to the stratum corneum layer (day 13). After 13 days of differentiation, we observed a strong increase in the lipid content, decrease in proteins, decrease in DNA, and a decrease in glucosylceramides/ceramides and sphingomyelins/ceramides ratios.

Skin surface lipid composition in women: increased 2,3-oxidosqualene correlates with older age.

The importance of the hydrolipidic film of skin has been well documented, however, few data are available in cases of very old age. Our aim was to characterize the difference in skin surface lipid (SSL) composition between individuals of different age groups. Data were collected from the forehead of 22 young volunteers (18-24 years old) and 18 senior volunteers (70-75 years old). The amount of sebum was obtained by sebumetry. To acquire relevant information about the molecular composition of high complex mixtures, SSLs were analysed in a single run to ensure that the lipid structures remain intact, using high-temperature gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. The major features associated with aged skin were documented. In aged skin, a lower sebum content was observed, together with modification of the relative SSL composition involving a significant reduction in the intensity of many components of the hydrolipidic film. In contrast, the intensity of 2,3-oxidosqualene was shown to increase with an inverse relationship between triglycerides and their hydrolytic products. These adaptations could be related to modifications of enzymatic activity.

Comprehensive characterization and simultaneous analysis of overall lipids in reconstructed human epidermis using NPLC/HR-MSn: 1-O-E (EO) Cer, a new ceramide subclass.

Stratum corneum lipids are responsible for the skin's barrier function. They are the final product of epidermis lipid biosynthesis. During this process, lipids evolve from simple to complex structures in three main levels respectively (stratum basal level, stratum granulosum level, and stratum corneum level). Our aim was to simultaneously analyze and characterize the structure of total epidermis lipids. A powerful analytical method (normal-phase liquid chromatography coupled with high-resolution mass spectrometry (NPLC/HR-MSn)) was developed in order to separate, in a single run, lipid classes with a wide polarity range. Chromatographic conditions were particularly designed to analyze lipids of intermediate polarity such as ceramides. Rich information was obtained about the molecular structure of keratinocyte differentiation biomarkers such as ceramides, glucosylceramides, and sphingomyelins and the microstructures of reconstructed human epidermis lipids using HR-MSn. A new subclass of ceramides, 1-O-Acyl Omega-linoleoyloxy ceramides [1-O-E (EO) Cer] has been highlighted. This class is double esterified on the 1-O-position of sphingoid base with long to very long chain acyl residues (1-O-E) and on the position of ω-hydroxyl group of fatty acid with the linolenic acid (EO). Considering its chemical structure and hydrophobicity, this subclass can contribute to the skin barrier. In addition, we detected a new epidermis sphingomyelins. Our lipidomic approach offers a direct access to epidermis biomarkers.

Skin lightening effect of natural extracts coming from Senegal botanical biodiversity.

BACKGROUND: Skin depigmentation is increasingly oriented toward plant extracts because of harmfulness of depigmenting active ingredients used in cosmetics and dermatology. Reconstructed human pigmented epidermis (RHPE) is the closest in vitro model to human skin and offers the possibility to test the global depigmenting effect of a plant extract. These co-cultures of keratinocytes and melanocytes are the most advanced and newest models for testing depigmentation, and until now very few studies have been done with these cultures. We investigated the cytotoxicity and the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and melanogenesis of four extracts from Combretum micranthum (G. Don) leaves, Anacardium occidentale (L.) fruits, Moringa oleifera (Lam.) seeds, and Adansonia digitata (L.) seeds. METHODS: The vegetal extracts were obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction and the vegetal oils by maceration. Anti-tyrosinase properties of two aqueous extracts were evaluated. Then, the cytotoxicity and depigmenting effects of these plant extracts were tested in vitro with RHPE model delivered by SkinEthic® . RESULTS: Antityrosinase activities were found to be 84.58% and 31.02% for C. micranthum and A. occidentale, respectively. All extracts, except A. occidentale, showed to be nontoxic. C. micranthum, M. oleifera, A. digitata, and mixture of M. oleifera and A. digitata extracts have shown, for the first time, an in vitro depigmenting activity equivalent or even more important than kojic acid. CONCLUSIONS: These natural extracts coming from Senegal botanical biodiversity could be used in cosmetic and dermatology as alternative agents to achieve skin depigmentation. Further study should be focused on the mechanism of action of these plant extracts.

Phytochemical screening and antityrosinase activity of carvacrol, thymoquinone, and four essential oils of Lebanese plants.

OBJECTIVE: In our study, we aim to explore the ability of four essential oils (EO) of Lebanese plants to inhibit the tyrosinase activity and to correlate their efficiency level to their phytochemical compositions. METHODS: The EO have been extracted by hydrodistillation using a Clevenger apparatus and have been studied by GC-MS analysis. Active compounds of Origanum species were identified and antityrosinase activities of EO and active molecules (carvacrol and thymoquinone) have been tested in tubo. RESULTS: Antityrosinase activities were obtained as follows: EO of Origanum syriacum (80.41% ± 2.00%), EO of Origanum ehrenbergii (45.33% ± 2.20%), EO of Salvia fruticosa (14.62% ± 2.30%), EO of Calamintha origanifolia (16.51% ± 5.80%), Carvacrol (56.55% ± 3.10%), and Thymoquinone (19.49% ± 1.50%). CONCLUSION: Origanum essential oils resulted in the highest antityrosinase activity due to their high content in carvacrol. However, when present together with carvacrol, thymoquinone decreases the efficiency of carvacrol, which is the case of O. ehrenbergii essential oil. Thus, for improved antityrosinase activity, O. syriacum and O. ehrenbergii should be harvested during flowering stage where carvacrol is present at its highest dosage and thymoquinone at its lowest.

Origanum essential oils reduce the level of melanin in B16-F1 melanocytes.

BACKGROUND: Hyperpigmentation disorders are considered signs of skin aging and are aesthetically unpleasant. Most active ingredients used against hyperpigmentation disorders predominantly target tyrosinase activity. OBJECTIVES: To study the effect of two Origanum essential oils on the melanogenic activity of B16-F1 murine melanocytes. The main component of these oils, carvacrol, was also investigated and a model for anti-melanogenic activity is proposed. MATERIALS AND METHODS: B16-F1 melanocytes were exposed to different concentrations of essential oils and carvacrol. The level of tyrosinase and melanin was determined using spectrophotometric measurements. RESULTS: Essential oils of Origanum syriacum and Origanum ehrenbergii led to a significant 14% and 17% reduction in melanin level at 40 µg mL-1, respectively. However, neither demonstrated a significant effect on the level of intracellular tyrosinase. The same effects were found for carvacrol which led to a 30% reduction in melanin at 45 µg mL-1. CONCLUSION: Our results indicate that the oils studied are anti-melanogenic. We propose a mechanism, similar to that for hydroquinone, whereby carvacrol functions as a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase, thus inhibiting oxidation of tyrosine and causing a deregulation of melanogenesis.

Clustering-based preprocessing method for lipidomic data analysis: application for the evolution of newborn skin surface lipids from birth until 6 months.

After life in utero and birth, the skin is submitted to an important process of adaptation to a relatively dry gaseous environment. Skin surface lipids (SSLs) contribute actively to the protection of the skin barrier. Within this context, our objective was to study the evolution of each lipid compound during the postnatal period. SSLs were collected from six newborns a few days after birth until the age of 6 months. Seventy samples were analyzed using high-temperature gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HT-GC/MS). The use of separative techniques coupled to mass spectrometry for the analysis of samples containing complex mixtures of lipids generates a large volume of data which renders the results interpretation very difficult. In this study, we propose a new approach to handle the raw data, a clustering-based preprocessing method (CB-PPM), in order to achieve (1) volume reduction of data provided by each chromatogram without loss of information, (2) alignment of time retention shift between different runs, (3) clustering of mass spectra of the same molecule in one qualitative group, (4) and integration of all data into a single matrix to be explored by chemometric tools. This approach allowed us to gather data variations in 256 qualitative groups and therefore enabled us to highlight the variation of compounds including those of low intensity. Moreover, the representation of all data gathered in one matrix rendered reading of the results rapid and efficient. Thus, using this approach, we have demonstrated an increase of cholesterol esterification with epidermal fatty acids (C20 to C25) with age. This epidermis participation in SSL production at a molecular level in the first period of life has not been previously shown. These data can be very interesting for the development and improvement of products destined for the protection of infant skin. Graphical abstract ᅟ.

Chemometric approach for investigating the skin surface lipids (SSLs) composition: influence of geographical localization.

Skin surface lipids (SSLs), arising from both sebaceous glands and skin removal, form a complex lipid mixture composed of free fatty acids and neutral lipids. They are present in the hydrolipidic film and have a close relationship with the stratum corneum lipids. Thus, SSLs participate in the barrier function. One can expect a physiological adaptation of the SSLs composition according to geographical localization or skin pigmentation. In this study, SSLs obtained from three groups of volunteers (light and dark skin, living in France and dark skin, living in Ivory Coast) have been investigated. High-temperature gas chromatography/mass spectrometry has been used to study SSLs composition. The variability in the SSLs chromatographic profiles has been investigated, using chemometric methods which allowed us to highlight the sapienic acid (C16: 1Δ6) as discriminant according to geographical localization. This result is of a great interest regarding sapienic acid properties. However, no significant variation has been detected following skin pigmentation. In parallel, SSLs Raman spectra were collected in order to determine the organization and the conformational order of lipids. The spectral data treatment revealed discriminant variation in the υ C-C stretching region revealing changes in the conformational order of the SSLs following geographical localization.

High-temperature gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for skin surface lipids profiling.

Skin surface lipids (SSLs) arising from both sebaceous glands and skin removal form a complex lipid mixture composed of free fatty acids and neutral lipids. High-temperature gas chromatography coupled with electron impact or chemical ionization mass spectrometry was used to achieve a simple analytical protocol, without prior separation in classes and without prior cleavage of lipid molecules, in order to obtain simultaneously i) a qualitative characterization of the individual SSLs and ii) a quantitative evaluation of lipid classes. The method was first optimized with SSLs collected from the forehead of a volunteer. More than 200 compounds were identified in the same run. These compounds have been classified in five lipid classes: free fatty acids, hydrocarbons, waxes, sterols, and glycerides. The advantage to this method was it provided structural information on intact compounds, which is new for cholesteryl esters and glycerides, and to obtain detailed fingerprints of the major SSLs. These fingerprints were used to compare the SSL compositions from different body areas. The squalene/cholesterol ratio was used to determine the balance between sebaceous secretion and skin removal. This method could be of general interest in fields where complex lipid mixtures are involved.