'All-natural' anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation.

OBJECTIVE: The growing consumers' preferences and concerns regarding healthy ageing, youthful skin appearance, environmental protection and sustainability have triggered an ever-increasing trend towards natural, eco-friendly and ethically sourced anti-ageing products. Accordingly, this paper describes design and evaluation of novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums, completely based on ingredients of natural origin, intended for improving facial fine lines and wrinkles. METHODS: Model formulations, stabilized by an innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate) and containing Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti-ageing active, were prepared by cold process and fully assessed regarding their rheological behaviour (continuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis - DMTA test). To study and optimize the simultaneous influence of varied formulation factors (emollients and emulsifier concentrations) on critical rheological attributes of the developed serums, a central composite design within 'design of experiments' approach was employed. The general skin performance - preliminary safety and anti-wrinkle efficacy of selected model serum, was evaluated in human volunteers, by employing several objective, non-invasive bioengineering techniques. RESULTS: Rheological characterization revealed favourable shear-thinning flow behaviour with yield point, and dominating elastic character (storage modulus G' > loss modulus G") in both amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with relatively small structural change obtained in DMTA test indicated overall satisfying rheological and stability properties of formulated serums. From the established design space, and taking into account formulation cost and carbon footprint, promising model serum (desired/optimal apparent viscosity, yield point and loss factor, rather small and constant structural change), containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier, was chosen for in vivo evaluations. Screening of skin irritation effects revealed the absence of potential irritancy of investigated serum, suggesting overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety. Silicone skin replica image analysis demonstrated noticeable reduction/improvement in all measured skin wrinkle parameters after only 2 weeks of test serum application in periorbital and perioral areas, indicating its rapid and beneficial effects on the facial expression lines and wrinkles. CONCLUSION: Altogether, the results corroborate the promising potential of the developed Acmella oleracea extract-loaded emulsion serum as safe, effective and non-invasive natural anti-wrinkle product.

OBJECTIF: Les préférences et les préoccupations croissantes des consommateurs concernant le vieillissement sain, l'apparence jeune de la peau, la protection de l'environnement et la durabilité ont déclenché une tendance toujours croissante vers des produits anti-âge naturels, respectueux de l'environnement et éthiques. En conséquence, ce document décrit le plan et l'évaluation de nouveaux sérums d'émulsion sûrs, efficaces et de haute qualité, entièrement basés sur des ingrédients d'origine naturelle, destinés à améliorer les ridules et rides du visage. MÉTHODES: Des formulations modèles stabilisées par un émulsifiant mixte glycolipide innovant (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglycéryl-6 laurate) et contenant de l'extrait d'Acmella oleracea comme anti-vieillissement actif de modèle, ont été préparées par un procédé à froid et ont été pleinement évaluées en ce qui concerne leur comportement rhéologique (tests de rotation continue et examens oscillatoires) et stabilité physique (analyse thermomécanique dynamique - DMTA). Pour étudier et optimiser l'influence simultanée de facteurs de formulation variés (concentrations d'émollients et d'émulsifiants) sur les attributs rhéologiques critiques des sérums développés, une conception composite centrale dans le cadre d'une approche « conception d'expériences ¼ a été employée. Les performances cutanées générales - sécurité préliminaire et efficacité antirides du sérum du modèle sélectionné ont été évaluées chez des sujets humains volontaires, en utilisant plusieurs techniques de bio-ingénierie objectives et non invasives. RÉSULTATS: La caractérisation rhéologique a révélé un comportement favorable du débit de cisaillement avec une limite de rendement et une domination du caractère élastique (modulus de stockage G' > module de perte G) dans les balayages d'amplitude et de fréquence, qui, avec un changement structurel relativement faible obtenu dans l'analyse DMTA, a indiqué des propriétés rhéologiques et de stabilité satisfaisante globales des sérums. A partir de l'espace de conception établi, et en tenant compte du coût de composition et de l'empreinte carbone, un sérum modèle prometteur (viscosité apparente souhaitée/optimale, seuil de rendement et facteur de perte, changement structurel assez faible et constant), contenant 15 % d'émollients et 1 % d'émulsifiant, a été choisi pour les évaluations in vivo. Le dépistage des effets d'irritation cutanée a révélé l'absence d'irritation potentielle du sérum expérimental, suggérant une tolérance cutanée/une sécurité préliminaire globalement satisfaisante. L'analyse de l'image de la réplique cutanée en silicone a démontré une réduction/amélioration notable de tous les paramètres de rides cutanées mesurés après seulement deux semaines d'application du sérum test dans les zones périorbitaires et péribuccales, indiquant ses effets rapides et bénéfiques sur les lignes d'expression et les rides du visage. CONCLUSION: Au total, les résultats corroborent le potentiel prometteur du sérum d'émulsion à base d'extrait d'Acmella oleracea développé comme un produit anti-rides naturel sûr, efficace et non invasif.

Parenteral nanoemulsions as promising carriers for brain delivery of risperidone: Design, characterization and in vivo pharmacokinetic evaluation.

This paper describes design and evaluation of parenteral lecithin-based nanoemulsions intended for brain delivery of risperidone, a poorly water-soluble psychopharmacological drug. The nanoemulsions were prepared through cold/hot high pressure homogenization and characterized regarding droplet size, polydispersity, surface charge, morphology, drug-vehicle interactions, and physical stability. To estimate the simultaneous influence of nanoemulsion formulation and preparation parameters--co-emulsifier type, aqueous phase type, homogenization temperature--on the critical quality attributes of developed nanoemulsions, a general factorial experimental design was applied. From the established design space and stability data, promising risperidone-loaded nanoemulsions (mean size about 160 nm, size distribution <0.15, zeta potential around -50 mV), containing sodium oleate in the aqueous phase and polysorbate 80, poloxamer 188 or Solutol(®) HS15 as co-emulsifier, were produced by hot homogenization and their ability to improve risperidone delivery to the brain was assessed in rats. Pharmacokinetic study demonstrated erratic brain profiles of risperidone following intraperitoneal administration in selected nanoemulsions, most probably due to their different droplet surface properties (different composition of the stabilizing layer). Namely, polysorbate 80-costabilized nanoemulsion showed increased (1.4-7.4-fold higher) risperidone brain availability compared to other nanoemulsions and drug solution, suggesting this nanoemulsion as a promising carrier worth exploring further for brain targeting.

Kinetics of enzymatic modification of quercetin with cysteine by horseradish peroxidase.

The kinetic mechanism of enzymatic modification of flavonol quercetin with L-cysteine by horseradish peroxidase (HRP) was studied. Reaction of modification of quercetin was followed by recording spectral changes over time at 380 nm. All reactions were performed in 100 mM phosphate buffer pH, 6.0 at 20 degrees C. Kinetic parameters were determined from graphics of linear Michaelis-Menten equation. The values obtained at specified intervals were: V(max) = 0.17 divided by 0.91 deltaA380/min, K(m) = 0.023 divided by 0.5 mM, k(cat) = 0.21 divided by 1.14 deltaA380/min x nM(-1) and V(max)/K(m) = 0.83 divided by 26.55 deltaA380/min x mM(-1). It was found that all investigated reactions of the modification of quercetin with L-cysteine by HRP followed an ordered mechanism. We propose that HRP initially reacts with H2O2 than with quercetin and finally with L-cysteine, leading to the introduction of L-cysteine in the structure of quercetin.