Assessment of Cucurbita spp. Peel Extracts as Potential Sources of Active Substances for Skin Care and Dermatology.

By-products of cultivated plants are one of the major environmental concerns worldwide. Due to the high concentration of bioactive chemicals, such waste may be considered hazardous due to the interference with the plant growth, deterioration of the drinking water quality or toxic effects on sensitive marine organisms. Moreover, plant-derived by-products, with proper handling, may represent a low-cost source of bioactive compounds potentially important for pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant activity, the influence of tyrosinase activity, in vitro sun protecting factor and cytotoxicity of 15 extracts from peels of five cultivars of Cucurbita maxima and C. moschata. The extracts were prepared using "green solvents" (water, 50% propylene glycol, and 20% ethanol) and ultrasound-assisted extraction. The performed analysis showed that the peel extracts from various cultivars differ significantly in respect to the phytochemical content and activity. The type of solvent also had a significant impact on the extract's composition and bioactivity. Aqueous peel extracts contained the highest amounts of flavonoids, showed the greatest antioxidant potential and the most significant in vitro SPF values. In vitro studies showed that the analyzed peel extracts are not cytotoxic for human keratinocytes up to the concentration of 1000 µg/mL and thus might be considered as non-irritant for the skin. The study confirms the potential application of peel extracts from Cucurbita spp. cultivars in cosmetic products.

Liquid-Liquid Chromatography Separation of Guaiane-Type Sesquiterpene Lactones from Ferula penninervis Regel & Schmalh. and Evaluation of Their In Vitro Cytotoxic and Melanin Inhibitory Potential.

Ferula penninervis Regel & Schmalh. is a perennial plant used in Kazakh traditional folk medicine to treat epilepsy, neurosis, rheumatism, gastroduodenal ulcers, dyspepsia, wounds, abscesses or tumors. The aim of this work was to isolate series of sesquiterpene lactones from a crude methanolic root extract and investigate their in vitro cytotoxic potential against androgen-dependent prostate cancer LNCaP and epithelial prostate PNT2 cells, as well as to evaluate their melanin production inhibitory effects in murine melanoma B16F10 cells stimulated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (αMSH). Two new (penninervin P and penninervin Q) and five known (olgin, laferin, olgoferin, oferin and daucoguainolactone F) guaiane-type sesquiterpene lactones were isolated with the use of a simple and fast liquid-liquid chromatography method. Olgin and laferin showed the most promising cytotoxic effects in LNCaP cells (IC50 of 31.03 and 23.26 µg/mL, respectively). Additionally, olgin, laferin, olgoferin, and oferin (10 µg/mL) potently impaired melanin release (40.67-65.48% of αMSH + cells) without influencing the viability of B16F10 cells. In summary, our findings might indicate that guaiane-type sesquiterpene lactones from F. penninervis could be regarded as promising candidates for further research in discovering new therapeutic agents with anti-prostate cancer and skin depigmentation properties.

Insights into the Phytochemical and Multifunctional Biological Profile of Spices from the Genus Piper.

Piper spices represent an inexhaustible reservoir of bioactive compounds that may act as drug leads in natural product research. The aim of this study was to investigate a series of methanolic fruit extracts obtained from P. nigrum (black, green, white and red), P. longum and P. retrofractum in comparative phytochemical and multi-directional biological (antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-enzymatic and anti-melanogenic) assays. The metabolite profiling revealed the presence of 17 piperamides, with a total content of 247.75-591.42 mg piperine equivalents/g. Among the 22 tested microorganism strains, Piper spices were significantly active (MIC < 0.1 mg/mL) against the anaerobes Actinomyces israelii and Fusobacterium nucleatum. The antioxidant and anti-enzymatic activities were evidenced in DPPH (10.64-82.44 mg TE/g) and ABTS (14.20-77.60 mg TE/g) radical scavenging, CUPRAC (39.94-140.52 mg TE/g), FRAP (16.05-77.00 mg TE/g), chelating (0-34.80 mg EDTAE/g), anti-acetylcholinesterase (0-2.27 mg GALAE/g), anti-butyrylcholinesterase (0.60-3.11 mg GALAE/g), anti-amylase (0.62-1.11 mmol ACAE/g) and anti-glucosidase (0-1.22 mmol ACAE/g) assays. Several Piper extracts (10 µg/mL) inhibited both melanin synthesis (to 32.05-60.65% of αMSH+ cells) and release (38.06-45.78% of αMSH+ cells) in αMSH-stimulated B16F10 cells, partly explained by their tyrosinase inhibitory properties. Our study uncovers differences between Piper spices and sheds light on their potential use as nutraceuticals or cosmeceuticals for the management of different diseases linked to bacterial infections, Alzheimer's dementia, type 2 diabetes mellitus or hyperpigmentation.

Is Phytomelatonin Complex Better Than Synthetic Melatonin? The Assessment of the Antiradical and Anti-Inflammatory Properties.

This work aims to assess the recently established anti-inflammatory and antioxidant potential of melatonin of plant origin extracted from the plant matrix as a phytomelatonin complex (PHT-MLT), and compare its activity with synthetic melatonin (SNT-MLT) when used on its own or with vitamin C. For this purpose, a COX-2 enzyme inhibitory activity test, an antiradical activity in vitro and on cell lines assays, was performed on both PHT-MLT and SNT-MLT products. COX-2 inhibitory activity of PHT-MLT was found to be ca. 6.5 times stronger than that of SNT-MLT (43.3% and 6.7% enzyme inhibition, equivalent to the activity of acetylsalicylic acid in conc. 30.3 ± 0.2 and 12.0 ± 0.3 mg/mL, respectively). Higher antiradical potential and COX-2 inhibitory properties of PHT-MLT could be explained by the presence of additional naturally occurring constituents in alfalfa, chlorella, and rice, which were clearly visible on the HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS fingerprint. The antiradical properties of PHT-MLT determined in the DPPH test (IC50 of 21.6 ± 1 mg of powder/mL) were found to originate from the presence of other metabolites in the 50% EtOH extract while SNT-MLT was found to be inactive under the applied testing conditions. However, the antioxidant studies on HaCaT keratinocytes stimulated with H2O2 revealed a noticeable activity in all samples. The presence of PHT-MLT (12.5, 25 and 50 µg/mL) and vitamin C (12.5, 25 and 50 µg/mL) in the H2O2-pretreated HaCaT keratinocytes protected the cells from generating reactive oxygen species. This observation confirms that MLT-containing samples affect the intracellular production of enzymes and neutralize the free radicals. Presented results indicated that MLT-containing products in combination with Vitamin C dosage are worth to be considered as a preventive alternative in the therapy of various diseases in the etiopathogenesis, of which radical and inflammatory mechanisms play an important role.

The Phenolic Compounds Profile and Cosmeceutical Significance of Two Kazakh Species of Onions: Alliumgalanthum and A. turkestanicum.

Numerous species of Allium genus have been used in the traditional medicine based on their vast biological effects, e.g., antimicrobial, digestion stimulant, anti-sclerotic, soothing, antiradical or wound healing properties. In this work, unpolar and polar extracts from two lesser-investigated species of Allium growing in Kazakhstan, Alliumgalanthum Kar. & Kir. (AG) and A. turkestanicum Regel. (AT), were studied for their composition and biological effects. In the HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analyses of water and alcoholic extracts simple organic acids, flavonoids and their glycosides were found to be the best represented group of secondary metabolites. On the other hand, in the GC-MS analysis diethyl ether, extracts were found to be rich sources of straight-chain hydrocarbons and their alcohols, fatty acids and sterols. The antimicrobial activity assessment showed a lower activity of polar extracts, however, the diethyl ether extract from AT bulbs and AG chives showed the strongest activity against Bacillus subtilis ATCC 6633, B. cereus ATCC 10876, some species of Staphylococcus (S. aureus ATCC 25923 and S. epidermidis ATCC 12228) and all tested Candida species (Candida albicans ATCC 2091, Candida albicans ATCC 10231, Candida glabrata ATCC 90030, Candida krusei ATCC 14243 and Candida parapsilosis ATCC 22019) with a minimum inhibitory concentration of 0.125-0.5 mg/mL. The highest antiradical capacity exhibited diethyl ether extracts from AG bulbs (IC50 = 19274.78 ± 92.11 mg Trolox eq/g of dried extract) in DPPH assay. In ABTS scavenging assay, the highest value of mg Trolox equivalents, 50.85 ± 2.90 was calculated for diethyl ether extract from AT bulbs. The same extract showed the highest inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase (82.65 ± 1.28% of enzyme activity), whereas AG bulb ether extract was the most efficient murine tyrosinase inhibitor (54% of the enzyme activity). The performed tests confirm possible cosmeceutical applications of these plants.

Achillea Species as Sources of Active Phytochemicals for Dermatological and Cosmetic Applications.

Achillea spp. is well known for its broad range of applications and long history of use in traditional medicine around the world. Health benefits of Achillea extracts result from the multitude of secondary metabolites identified in the plants from this genus that include flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenes, guaianolides, phytosterols, fatty acids, and organic acids. The properties of several Achillea extracts meet also the expectations of a vividly developing cosmetic market. An increasing number of studies on the dermatological properties of Achillea spp. are observed in the recent years, with Achillea millefolium L. being the most studied and used representative of the genus. There is strong scientific evidence showing that also other yarrow species might be rich sources of effective cosmetic ingredients, with skin calming and rejuvenating properties, wound healing activity, and anti-inflammatory potential. Several Achillea extracts and isolated compounds were also shown to display significant tyrosinase inhibitory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties and thus are interesting candidates for active ingredients of medications and cosmetic products protecting the skin from the harmful impact of environmental stressors. The aim of this review is to collect the current information on the composition and cosmeceutical significance of different Achillea species.

Rosa platyacantha Schrenk from Kazakhstan-Natural Source of Bioactive Compounds with Cosmetic Significance.

Plants belonging to the Rosa genus are known for their high content of bioactive molecules and broad spectrum of healing and cosmetic activities. Rosa platyacantha Schrenk is a wild-type species abundant in the mountainous regions of Kazakhstan. The phytochemical composition as well as the bioactivity of R. platyacantha extracts have not been fully investigated to date. In this study, various parts of R.platyacantha plant, collected in Almaty region, Kazakhstan, were used to prepare five hydroalcoholic extracts (R1-R5). The extracts were compared for the content of phytochemicals and selected biological activities, which are important for the potential cosmetic application of R. platyacantha. Extract R3, prepared from flower buds, showed the most significant antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential, decreasing the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of tyrosinase. Extract R3 showed also collagenase inhibitory activity and cytotoxicity against human melanoma cells A375, being less cytotoxic for noncancerous skin keratinocytes HaCaT. Analysis of fractions E and F, obtained from R3 extracts, revealed that quercetin, kaempferol, rutin, and their derivatives are more likely responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory properties of R. platyacantha extracts.

Identification of Mushroom and Murine Tyrosinase Inhibitors from Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Extract.

Growing scientific evidence indicates that Achillea biebersteinii is a valuable source of active ingredients with potential cosmetic applications. However, the data on its composition and pharmacological properties are still insufficient. This study aims to optimize the extraction procedure of the plant material, evaluate its phytochemical composition, and compare anti-tyrosinase potential of A. biebersteinii extracts obtained by various methods. In order to identify compounds responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. biebersteinii, the most active anti-tyrosinase extract was fractionated by column chromatography. The fractions were examined for their skin lightening potential by mushroom and murine tyrosinase inhibitory assays and melanin release assay. HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS/MS analysis of the total extract revealed the presence of several phenolic acids, flavonoids, flavonoid glucosides, and carboxylic acid. Among them, fraxetin-8-O-glucoside, quercetin-O-glucopyranose, schaftoside/isoschaftoside, gmelinin B, 1,3-dicaffeoylquinic acid (1,3-DCQA), and ferulic acid were found in the fractions with the highest skin lightening potential. Based on obtained qualitative and quantitative analysis of the fractions, it was assumed that the caffeoylquinic acid derivatives and dicaffeoylquinic acid derivatives are more likely responsible for mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. biebersteinii extracts and fractions. Ferulic acid was proposed as the most active murine tyrosinase inhibitor, responsible also for the reduced melanin release from B16F10 murine melanoma cells.

Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use.

Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)-a less investigated representative of the genus-were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of water:polyethylene glycol extracts (1:1, 4:1, 6:1 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) and assayed for their biological activities. The study led to the identification of 11 metabolites from different natural product classes with the highest share corresponding to 5-caffeoylquinic acid, axillarin, coumaroylquinic acid isomers and 3-caffeoylquinic acid. The highest antiradical capacity in DPPH and ABTS scavenging assays was shown for HG 4:1 of AB and AM extracts. HG 1:1 extracts from both species inhibited monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, whereas AB HG 4:1 extract showed significant monophenolase inhibition. The highest sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for AM HG 4:1 extract, equal to 14.04 ± 0.17. The AB extracts were cytotoxic for both human keratinocytes HaCaT and A375 melanoma, however HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts were more cytotoxic for cancer than for noncancerous cells. In conclusion, AB HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts display significant potential as active cosmetic ingredients.