Positive and ecobiological contribution in skin photoprotection of ectoine and mannitol combined in vivo with UV filters.

BACKGROUND: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes immunosuppression, photoaging, and carcinogenesis by induction of a cascade of skin damages. Sunscreens currently on the market are not absorbing UV rays uniformly throughout the full UV range, high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreens absorb most of UVB rays but are less effective in absorbing the UVA part of the spectrum. In the context, one approach could consist of preserving the skin natural resources and mechanisms, which is the foundation of the ecobiological approach, by combing UV filters and antioxidants to enhance their photoprotective effect. METHODS: First, the photoprotection properties of ectoine and mannitol association were characterized by the quantification of glutathione, reactive oxygen species, and double-stranded DNA breaks and by the epidermal Langerhans cells functionality. Second, the protection of squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and trans-urocanic acid (UCA) by the ectoine and mannitol association combined or not with SPF30 UV filters was assessed in vivo via non-invasive skin samplings in 10 subjects on irradiated areas. RESULTS: Using in vitro irradiated skin cell models, we demonstrated that this association significantly preserved intracellular glutathione levels, reduced DNA strand breaks induced by oxidative stress, and maintained Langerhans cell functionality. In vivo this association combined with UV filters presented significantly higher protection of three natural defense systems altered by UV compared to UV filters alone: squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and preservation of trans-UCA. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the ecobiological potential of combining UV filters with biological protection to increase skin photoprotection provided by specific active ingredients with antioxidative and immunosuppressive properties.

Impact of Leave-on Skin Care Products on the Preservation of Skin Microbiome: An Exploration of Ecobiological Approach.

Purpose: Skincare products are used daily to maintain a healthy skin, although their skin microbiome impact is still poorly known. Preserving the natural resources and mechanisms of the skin ecosystem is essential, and a novel approach based on these premises, called ecobiology, has recently emerged in skincare. We evaluated the impact on the skin microbiome of three types of leave-on face skincare products: a hydrophilic solution, a micellar solution, and an oil-in-water emulsion. Patients and Methods: Samples for microbial profiling were obtained from 20 Caucasian females twenty-four hours and four days following daily application of the skincare products and compared to an untreated area. The bacterial diversity and the abundance of the skin microbiome were analyzed by 16S rRNA gene sequencing using an Illumina MiSeq platform. Results: Our results confirmed the skin microbiome diversity and the prevalence of Cutibacterium spp. and Staphylococcus spp. at sebaceous sites. The bacterial diversity and abundance were not affected by the products, and no dissimilarities versus the control nor between each product were noted at both times. Conclusion: These preliminary results demonstrate for the first time that three types of leave-on face skincare products have no impact on the human skin microbiome and can be considered to be "microbiome friendly".

Inhibition of thymic stromal lymphopoietin production to improve pruritus and quality of life in infants and children with atopic dermatitis.

BACKGROUND: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is an inflammatory pruritic chronic dermatosis involving the alarmin thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP), which is directly implicated in AD pruritus. AIMS: To evaluate the efficacy of Tambourissa trichophylla leaf extract (TTLE) titrated in polyphenols and 18ß-glycyrrhetinic acid (GA) in vitro and in vivo for AD pruritus. PATIENTS/METHODS: Initially, in vitro assessment of TSLP production in keratinocytes was undertaken. In normal human keratinocytes in vitro, TSLP was induced by polyinosinic:polycytidylic acid (Poly:IC), tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α, and interleukin (IL)-4 and then quantified by ELISA in supernatants. Some cells were pretreated with TTLE and/or GA. Thereafter, an in vivo clinical study was performed including 48 infants and children with mild to severe AD flare-ups, some of which were treated with topical corticosteroids. A topical spray containing TTLE and GA was applied. After 21 days of topical spray application, pruritus, sleeplessness, the SCORing Atopic Dermatitis (SCORAD) index, the Infant's Dermatitis Quality of Life index (IDQOL), and the Dermatitis Family Impact Questionnaire (DFIQ) were assessed. RESULTS: Thymic stromal lymphopoietin secretion was inhibited significantly in an AD environment by TTLE and GA by up to 57.2% and 73.3%, respectively. The use of the topical spray induced a significant reduction in pruritus and sleeplessness scores, as well as the SCORAD, IDQOL, and DFIQ indexes in the total group. Similar results were observed in patient subgroups with or without topical corticosteroid treatment. CONCLUSIONS: A topical spray containing TTLE and GA, which inhibit TSLP secretion, efficiently decreases AD pruritus and improves the quality of life of AD patients.

Pigmentation abnormalities in nucleotide excision repair disorders: Evidence and hypotheses.

Skin pigmentation abnormalities are manifested in several disorders associated with deficient DNA repair mechanisms such as nucleotide excision repair (NER) and double-strand break (DSB) diseases, a topic that has not received much attention up to now. Hereditary disorders associated with defective DNA repair are valuable models for understanding mechanisms that lead to hypo- and hyperpigmentation. Owing to the UV-associated nature of abnormal pigmentary manifestations, the outcome of the activated DNA damage response (DDR) network could be the effector signal for alterations in pigmentation, ultimately manifesting as pigmentary abnormalities in repair-deficient disorders. In this review, the role of the DDR network in the manifestation of pigmentary abnormalities in NER and DSB disorders is discussed with a special emphasis on NER disorders.

Assessment of a new biological complex efficacy on dysseborrhea, inflammation, and Propionibacterium acnes proliferation.

INTRODUCTION: Acne vulgaris is a common chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit triggered by Propionibacterium acnes. A bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract, and mannitol (BGM) complex has been developed to provide patients with acne with a specific dermocosmetic to be used adjunctively with conventional treatments. OBJECTIVE: The aim of these studies was to assess the antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative potential of BGM complex and its individual compounds as well as its impact on sebum composition. METHODS: The antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative potential of BGM complex and its compounds was assessed through in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies. The clinical benefit of BGM complex formulated in a cream was assessed in subjects prone to acne through sebum composition analysis and photometric assessments. RESULTS: Results from the studies showed that the BGM complex has significant antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative properties. At similar concentrations, bakuchiol has up to twice the antioxidative potential than vitamin E. In subjects, BGM complex regulated the sebum composition in acne patients by increasing the level of sapienic and linolenic acid and reducing the level of oleic acid. The reduced number of porphyrins on the skin surface showed that it is also effective against P. acnes. CONCLUSION: BGM complex provides a complete adjunctive care in patients with acne by targeting etiopathogenic factors of acne: dysseborrhea, inflammation, and P. acnes proliferation.

Gingko biloba extract reduces VEGF and CXCL-8/IL-8 levels in keratinocytes with cumulative effect with epigallocatechin-3-gallate.

In skin inflammation, vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and CXCL-8/IL-8 play an important role and are produced by activated keratinocytes. Extracts from Ginkgo biloba leaves (GBE), widely used in phytotherapy, have been reported to exert antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties in the skin. We therefore evaluated the effects of GBE on the release of VEGF and CXCL8/IL-8 by normal human keratinocytes (NHKs) activated by tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFalpha). Moreover, as we previously showed that epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) reduces VEGF and CXCL8/IL-8 secretion in TNFalpha-activated NHKs, we also tested its effect in association with GBE. Our results showed that GBE exerted a potent inhibition on VEGF and CXCL8/IL-8 levels in activated cells. In association with EGCG, GBE down-regulated VEGF and CXCL8/IL-8 levels in a cumulative manner in TNFalpha-stimulated NHKs. These results suggest that GBE, alone or in association with EGCG may contribute to moderate inflammatory processes in skin diseases associated with angiogenesis.

Characterization of early events involved in human dendritic cell maturation induced by sensitizers: cross talk between MAPK signalling pathways.

Dendritic cells (DCs), efficient-antigen presenting cells play an important role in initiating and regulating immune responses. DC maturation following exposure to nickel or DNCB induced an up-regulation of phenotypic markers and inflammatory cytokine secretion. Early intracellular mechanisms involved in DC maturation required to be precise. To address this purpose, DCs derived from human monocytes were treated with sensitizers (nickel, DNCB or thimerosal) in comparison with an irritant (SDS). Our data confirming the up-regulation of CD86, CD54 and cytokine secretion (IL-8 and TNFalpha) induced by sensitizers but not by SDS, signalling transduction involved in DC maturation was investigated using these chemicals. Kinase activity measurement was assessed using two new sensitive procedures (Facetrade mark and CBA) requiring few cells. SDS did not induce changes in signalling pathways whereas NiSO(4), DNCB and thimerosal markedly activated p38 MAPK and JNK, in contrast Erk1/2 phosphorylation was completely inhibited by DNCB or thimerosal and only activated by nickel. A pre-treatment with p38 MAPK inhibitor (SB203580) suppressed Erk1/2 inhibition induced by DNCB or thimerosal demonstrating a direct interaction between p38 MAPK and Erk1/2. A pre-treatment with an antioxidant, N-acetyl-L-cysteine (NAC) markedly reduced Erk1/2 inhibition and p38 MAPK phosphorylation induced by DNCB and thimerosal, suggesting a direct activation of p38 MAPK via an oxidative stress and a regulation of MAPK signalling pathways depending on chemicals. Because of a high sensitivity of kinase activity measurements, these procedures will be suitable for weak or moderate sensitizer screening.

Comparative effects of polyphenols from green tea (EGCG) and soybean (genistein) on VEGF and IL-8 release from normal human keratinocytes stimulated with the proinflammatory cytokine TNFalpha.

In skin inflammation, vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and IL-8 play an important role and are produced by activated keratinocytes. Recently, some polyphenols have been reported to exhibit antiinflammatory and antiangiogenic properties. We therefore evaluated the effects of green tea, its major component epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and an isoflavone derived from soybean (genistein) on the release of VEGF and IL-8 by activated normal human keratinocytes (NHK). NHK cultured in defined medium were stimulated for 48 h with the proinflammatory cytokine TNFalpha with the addition or not of different concentrations of polyphenols. Levels of VEGF and IL-8 were measured in cell supernatants by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assays. The different constituents tested inhibited keratinocyte proliferation without inducing apoptosis. They reduced in a dose-dependent manner the basal release and the upregulation of VEGF in NHK. Green tea and EGCG were also potent inhibitors of IL-8 release by TNFalpha-stimulated NHK, whereas genistein exerted only minor effects. These results underline the divergent pathways involved in the downregulation of VEGF and IL-8 by polyphenols in activated keratinocytes. They also suggest that polyphenols may contribute to moderate inflammatory processes in skin diseases associated with angiogenesis.