Dermal peptide delivery using enhancer molecules and colloidal carrier systems. Part III: Tetrapeptide GEKG.

Dermal application of peptides as drugs is an interesting and growing field in therapeutics. Besides therapy, they are increasingly used as cosmetic agents. Peptide delivery into the skin is highly challenging since they provide disadvantageous properties like a high molecular weight, hydrophilicity, polarity and susceptibility to enzymatic degradation. The aim of the presented study was to improve the bioavailability of a dermal administered tetrapeptide GEKG (amino acid sequence in one-letter notation). A nano-sized carrier system (microemulsion, ME) of w/o type was therefore developed since ME provide excellent penetration enhancing properties. Furthermore, enhancers were used to increase the penetration capacity of GEKG. The penetration of GEKG from the ME and enhancer-containing emulsions was compared to the penetration from a standard formulation. For this purpose ex vivo penetration studies with human skin were performed, which provide insights into dermal penetration and also localization and distribution of the active substances in each skin layer as well as the influence of vehicle variations. Experiments with three incubation times (30, 100, 300 min) and 5000 ppm GEKG in the formulations clearly show that the nano-sized carrier system is significantly better suited to transport GEKG rapidly into upper and deeper vital skin layers as well as through the skin compared to the standard cream. Studies with o/w emulsions containing 5% glyceryl caprylate/caprate 2.0× or 1.5× as enhancer and 50 ppm peptide revealed only a tendency to increased penetration into the SC and for the formulation with glyceryl caprylate/caprate 1.5× into the vital epidermis compared to the standard cream without additional enhancer. Significant better penetration rates were observed for the ME with 50 ppm GEKG. It can be concluded that liquid nano-sized systems are significantly more effective as carriers for extremely hydrophilic peptides used in cosmetics and also in therapeutics than classic cosmetic emulsions or enhancer-containing emulsions. CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS: Tetrapeptide-21 (CAS: 960608-17-7) glyceryl caprylate/caprate (CAS: 73398-61-5) sorbitan oleate (CAS: 1338-43-8) polyglyceryl-4 laurate (CAS: 75798-42-4) butylene glycol (CAS: 107-88-0) isopropyl palmitate (CAS: 142-91-6).

Dermal peptide delivery using enhancer moleculs and colloidal carrier systems. Part II: Tetrapeptide PKEK.

Due to the lipophilic properties of the uppermost skin layer of the stratum corneum (SC) it is highly challenging to reach therapeutic concentrations of cosmetic actives and drugs. Particularly, the hydrophilic ones penetrate poorly across the SC. The purpose of this study was to improve the topical bioavailability of the hydrophilic, polar tetrapeptide PKEK (amino acid sequence in one-letter notation). A nano-sized carrier system (microemulsion, ME) was therefore developed since MEs provide excellent penetration enhancing properties. The penetration of PKEK from the ME was compared to the penetration from a standard formulation. For the two preparations the penetration of the tetrapeptide in ex vivo human skin was investigated. This allows to make statements regarding dermal penetration, localization and distribution of the active substances in each skin layer as well as the influence of vehicle variations, in this case the incorporation of PKEK into a ME system. Relatively high amounts between 40 and 58% of the tetrapeptide PKEK penetrated from the standard cream into the skin. The major proportion of PKEK, which penetrated from the standard cream, remained in the SC and did not reach the target compartment within the skin. Penetration of PKEK from the ME was comparable with the cream for the shortest test time. However, very high PKEK amounts penetrated form the nano-sized carrier system (ME) into the human skin after 100 min (94%) and after 300 min (88%). The largest proportion did not remain in the skin, but permeated into the acceptor compartment. Therefore, the relative peptide content in the viable skin layers was predominantly comparable for the cream and the ME. For some samples a tendency could be observed that slightly higher amounts of PKEK were detected after the application of the standard cream. The absolute peptide concentrations gave a similar conclusion. The results indicate that liquid nano-sized systems are very effective carriers for extremely hydrophilic peptides used in cosmetics and also in therapeutics.

Effect of the multifunctional cosmetic ingredient sphinganine on hair loss in males and females with diffuse hair reduction.

Sphingolipids are well known to promote keratinocyte differentiation and to induce ceramide production. In addition, they show anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities. Thus, the aim of this study is to investigate the potential effect of sphinganine on prolonging the hair anagen rate and improving the overall hair quality and scalp health. The inhibitory potential of sphinganine toward 5-α-reductase was studied using an in vitro assay. The stimulation of the antimicrobial peptide HBD2 by sphinganine was measured by real-time polymerase chain reaction and immunostaining. Sphinganine bioavailability was studied ex vivo using a pig skin model. A placebo-controlled, double-blind study was designed to evaluate the efficacy of sphinganine on hair loss and hair/scalp quality in vivo. In vitro results showed that sphinganine is a potent inhibitor of 5-α-reductase type I that prevents the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone, a key factor of androgenetic male baldness. In vivo results demonstrated efficacy in reducing non-illness-related hair loss among males. In terms of expert rating, all hair quality and scalp parameters improved after application of sphinganine. Improved scalp health might be linked to the observed increase of the antimicrobial peptide HBD2. Thus, sphinganine is well suited as a topical alternative for the improvement of scalp health and hair quality and anti-hair loss application.