Phytochemical Profile and Antioxidant and Protective Activities of Various Types of Extracts from Hyssopus officinalis L. and Grindelia robusta Nutt. Herb Grown in Poland.

INTRODUCTION: The available literature indicates that Hyssopus officinalis and Grindelia robusta are raw materials with great potential for use in prevention and therapy. Therefore, the aims of this study were to assess the phytochemical profile and antioxidant and cytoprotective properties of extracts prepared using various solvents, additionally taking into account different methods of drying the plant material. METHODS: Hydrodistilled oil was analysed by GC-MS. The chemical composition of the extracts was estimated by spectrophotometry and the HPLC-DAD method. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using DPPH and FRAP and measuring the intracellular level of ROS. Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests were used to assess the cytotoxicity of the extracts on skin cells - keratinocytes and fibroblasts. RESULTS: The major components of hyssop essential oil were cis- (44.9%) and trans- (18.2%) pinocamphone, while borneol (16.1%), and α-pinene (12.0%) were predominant in grindelia essential oil. Flavonoids were dominant in the extracts (water:ethanol, water:methanol, and water: glycerol) from hot-air dried hyssop herb, while phenolic acids were the predominant compounds in the grindelia herb extracts. The water:ethanol hyssop extract had the highest total content of flavonoids (42.26 mg CE/mL), among which isoquercitrin and rutin were present in the highest quantities (32.61 mg/mL and 21.47 mg/mL, respectively). In the case of grindelia, the highest total phenolic acid content (26.24 mg CAE/mL) was recorded in the water:ethanol extract, and the dominant compounds among them were 1,5-dicaffeoylquinic and chlorogenic acid (10.85 and 6.39 mg/mL, respectively). The water:ethanol extract from both plants also exhibited the highest antioxidant activity in the DPPH and FRAP tests (79.19% and 1.39 mmol/L, respectively, for grindelia and 67.61% and 1.04 mmol/L for hyssop) and was most effective at reducing the level of ROS in cells. In addition, water:ethanol extracts may have a positive impact on the viability of skin cells in vitro. CONCLUSION: Water:ethanol extracts from H. officinalis and G. robusta herb are promising sources of active compounds and may find application as natural materials with valuable biological properties, which require further in vitro and in vivo testing.

Comparison of Anti-Inflammatory and Antibacterial Properties of Raphanus sativus L. Leaf and Root Kombucha-Fermented Extracts.

In the cosmetics industry, the extract from Raphanus sativus L. is fermented using specific starter cultures. These cosmetic ingredients act as preservatives and skin conditioners. Kombucha is traditionally made by fermenting sweetened tea using symbiotic cultures of bacteria and yeast and is used in cosmetic products. The aim of this study was to evaluate the cosmetic properties of radish leaf and root extract fermented with the SCOBY. Both unfermented water extracts and extracts after 7, 14, and 21 days of fermentation were evaluated. The analysis of secondary plant metabolites by UPLC-MS showed higher values for ferments than for extracts. A similar relationship was noted when examining the antioxidant properties using DPPH and ABTS radicals and the protective effect against H2O2-induced oxidative stress in fibroblasts and keratinocytes using the fluorogenic dye H2DCFDA. The results also showed no cytotoxicity to skin cells using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability of the samples to inhibit IL-1ß and COX-2 activity in LPS-treated fibroblasts was also demonstrated using ELISA assays. The influence of extracts and ferments on bacterial strains involved in inflammatory processes of skin diseases was also assessed. Additionally, application tests were carried out, which showed a positive effect of extracts and ferments on TEWL and skin hydration using a TEWAmeter and corneometer probe. The results obtained depended on the concentration used and the fermentation time.

New Polymeric Hydrogels with Cannabidiol and α-Terpineol as Potential Materials for Skin Regeneration-Synthesis and Physicochemical and Biological Characterization.

Dermatology and cosmetology currently prioritize healthy, youthful-looking skin. As a result, research is being conducted worldwide to uncover natural substances and carriers that allow for controlled release, which could aid in the battle against a variety of skin illnesses and slow the aging process. This study examined the biological and physicochemical features of novel hydrogels containing cannabidiol (CBD) and α-terpineol (TER). The hydrogels were obtained from ε-caprolactone (CL) and poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) copolymers, diethylene glycol (DEG), poly(tetrahydrofuran) (PTHF), 1,6-diisocyanatohexane (HDI), and chitosan (CHT) components, whereas the biodegradable oligomers were synthesized using the enzyme ring-opening polymerization (e-ROP) method. The in vitro release rate of the active compounds from the hydrogels was characterized by mainly first-order kinetics, without a "burst release". The antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, cytotoxic, antioxidant, and anti-aging qualities of the designed drug delivery systems (DDSs) were evaluated. The findings indicate that the hydrogel carriers that were developed have the ability to scavenge free radicals and impact the activity of antioxidant enzymes while avoiding any negative effects on keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Furthermore, they have anti-inflammatory qualities by impeding protein denaturation as well as the activity of proteinase and lipoxygenase. Additionally, their ability to reduce the multiplication of pathogenic bacteria and inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase has been demonstrated. Thus, the developed hydrogel carriers may be effective systems for the controlled delivery of CBD, which may become a valuable tool for cosmetologists and dermatologists.

Biological Activity of Horehound (Marrubium vulgare L.) Herb Grown in Poland and Its Phytochemical Composition.

Marrubium vulgare (Lamiaceae) is a plant which has long been known and used in traditional medicine for various purposes. However, few recent studies have documented its chemical composition and biological properties. The present study investigated the phytochemical composition of horehound, as well as its protective, antioxidant, and antimicrobial potential. GC-MS analysis revealed that the major components of horehound essential oil are E-caryophyllene (35.7%), germacrene D (25.2%), and bicyclogermacrene (10.6%). The biological activity of horehound hydroethanolic herb extract derives from multiple chemical compounds, including polyphenols (55.72 mg/mL), flavonoids (11.01 mg/mL), phenolic acids (4.33 mg/mL), and tannins (4.46 mg/mL). Chromatographic analyses of the extract identified 12 phenolic compounds, of which ferulic acid, catechin, quercetin, protocatechuic acid, rutin, and syringic acid (35.42, 24.69, 20.65, 18.70, 14.46, and 12.69 mg/mL, respectively) were the main constituents. Its DPPH radical scavenging ability was 68.29%, while its antioxidant properties, determined by the FRAP method, were at the level of 1.22 mmol/L. Moreover, M. vulgare extract decreased the level of intracellular reactive oxygen species in the fibroblasts and keratinocytes in vitro, achieving the strongest antioxidant effect at a concentration of 2.5% in the case of both types of skin cells. Extracts from the horehound herb showed significant antimicrobial and anti-biofilm activity, confirming the plant's potential in therapeutic applications against various microbial pathogens (gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria and fungi). The research results demonstrate the protective effect of horehound extract on the viability of both fibroblasts and keratinocytes in vitro. To sum up, M. vulgare, as a valuable natural material with high preventive and therapeutic effectiveness, is a potential candidate for new applications in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries.

Comparison of the Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Extracts from Different Cultivars of Cornus mas L.

Cornus mas L. is a rich source of vitamin C and polyphenols. Due to their health-benefit properties, C. mas L. extracts have been used in, e.g., dermatology and cosmetology, and as a food supplement. Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor gamma (PPARγ) and its co-activator (PGC-1α) are now suspected to be the main target of active substances from C. mass extracts, especially polyphenols. Moreover, the PPARγ pathway is involved in the development of different diseases, such as type 2 diabetes mellitus (DM2), cancers, skin irritation, and inflammation. Therefore, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the PPARγ pathway activation by the most popular water and ethanol extracts from specific C. mas L. cultivars in an in vitro model of the human normal fibroblast (BJ) cell line. We analyzed the content of biologically active compounds in the extracts using the UPLC-DAD-MS technique and revealed the presence of many polyphenols, including gallic, quinic, protocatechuic, chlorogenic, and ellagic acids as well as iridoids, with loganic acid being the predominant component. In addition, the extracts contained cyanidin 3-O-galactoside, pelargonidin 3-O-glucoside, and quercetin 3-glucuronide. The water-ethanol dark red extract (DRE) showed the strongest antioxidant activity. Cytotoxicity was assessed in a normal skin cell line, and positive effects of all the extracts with concentrations ranging from 10 to 1000 µg/mL on the cells were shown. Our data show that the studied extracts activate the PPARγ/PGC-1α molecular pathway in BJ cells and, through this mechanism, initiate antioxidant response. Moreover, the activation of this molecular pathway may increase insulin sensitivity in DM2 and reduce skin irritation.

Investigating the Anti-Inflammatory Properties and Skin Penetration Ability of Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas L.) Extracts.

Plant extracts can be a valuable source of biologically active compounds in many cosmetic preparations. Their effect depends on the phytochemicals they contain and their ability to penetrate the skin. Therefore, in this study, the possibility of skin penetration by phenolic acids contained in dogwood extracts of different fruit colors (yellow, red, and dark ruby red) prepared using different extractants was investigated. These analyses were performed using a Franz chamber and HPLC-UV chromatography. Moreover, the antioxidant properties of the tested extracts were compared and their impact on the intracellular level of free radicals in skin cells was assessed. The cytotoxicity of these extracts towards keratinocytes and fibroblasts was also analyzed and their anti-inflammatory properties were assessed using the enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). The analyses showed differences in the penetration of individual phenolic acids into the skin and different biological activities of the tested extracts. None of the extracts had cytotoxic effects on skin cells in vitro, and the strongest antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties were found in dogwood extracts with dark ruby red fruits.

ROS Scavenging Effect of Selected Isoflavones in Provoked Oxidative Stress Conditions in Human Skin Fibroblasts and Keratinocytes.

Isoflavones, belonging to polyphenolic compounds, show structural similarity to natural estrogens, and in this context, they have been extensively studied. Some of them are also applied as cosmetic additives; however, little is known regarding their effects on skin cells. In this investigation, common isoflavones, including genistein, daidzein, glycitein, formononetin, and biochanin A, as well as coumestrol, were evaluated for antioxidant activity and their impact on human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Antioxidant effects were assessed using DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP tests, and the ability to scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) was tested in cells with H2O2-provoked oxidative stress. The impact on the activity of antioxidant enzymes (SOD, CAT, GSH) and lipid peroxidation (MDA) was also explored. As shown by Alamar Blue and neutral red uptake assays, the compounds were not toxic within the tested concentration range, and formononetin and coumestrol even demonstrated a stimulatory effect on cells. Coumestrol and biochanin A demonstrated significant antioxidative potential, leading to a significant decrease in ROS in the cells stimulated by H2O2. Furthermore, they influenced enzyme activity, preventing depletion during induced oxidative stress, and also reduced MDA levels, demonstrating protection against lipid peroxidation. In turn, genistein, daidzein, and glycitein exhibited low antioxidant capacity.

Evaluation of the Biological Activity of Hydrogel with Cornus mas L. Extract and Its Potential Use in Dermatology and Cosmetology.

Due to the growing popularity of herbal extract-loaded hydrogels, this study assessed the biological activity of extracts and hydrogels containing three types (water (WE), water-ethanol (EE) and water-glycerin (GE)) of Cornus mas L. (dogwood) extracts. The content of biologically active compounds in the extracts was assessed using the UPLC-DAD-MS technique. Antioxidant properties were assessed by using DPPH and ABTS radicals and measuring the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species. Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests were used to measure the cytotoxicity of the tested samples on skin cells-fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Cell migration and the anti-aging activity of the tested extracts and hydrogels were assessed. Transepidermal water loss and skin hydration after applying the hydrogels to the skin were also determined. A chromatographic analysis revealed that the extracts contained polyphenols, including gallic, caftaric, protocatechuic, chlorogenic, ellagic and p-coumaroylquinic acids, as well as iridoids, with loganic acid as the predominant component. Additionally, they contained cyanidin 3-O-galactoside, pelargonidin 3-O-glucoside and quinic acid. The obtained results show that the tested extracts and hydrogels had strong antioxidant properties and had a positive effect on the viability of skin cells in vitro. Additionally, it was shown that they stimulated the migration of these cells and had the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase. Moreover, the tested hydrogels increased skin hydration and prevented transepidermal water loss. The obtained results indicate that the developed hydrogels may be effective delivery systems for phytochemicals contained in dogwood extracts.

Comparative Study of Cytotoxicity and Antioxidant, Anti-Aging and Antibacterial Properties of Unfermented and Fermented Extract of Cornus mas L.

Due to the high demand for products that can help treat various skin conditions, the interest in plant extracts, which are a valuable source of phytochemicals, is constantly growing. In this work, the properties of extracts and ferments from Cornus mas L. and their potential use in cosmetic products were compared. For this purpose, their composition, antioxidant properties and cytotoxicity against skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts were assessed in vitro. In addition, the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase was compared, which enabled the assessment of their potential to inhibit skin aging. Microbiological analyses carried out on different bacterial strains were made in order to compare their antibacterial properties. The conducted analyses showed that both dogwood extract and ferment have antioxidant and anti-aging properties. In addition, they can have a positive effect on the viability of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and inhibit the proliferation of various pathogenic bacteria, which indicates their great potential as ingredients in skin care preparations. The stronger activity of the ferment compared to the extract indicates the legitimacy of carrying out the fermentation process of plant raw materials using kombucha in order to obtain valuable products for the cosmetics industry.

Anti-Inflammatory and Protective Effects of Water Extract and Bioferment from Sambucus nigra Fruit in LPS-Induced Human Skin Fibroblasts.

In this study, an attempt was made to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and protective effects of the Sambucus nigra fruit extract and its ferment obtained by fermentation with kombucha tea fungus. For this purpose, fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of their chemical composition by the HPLC/ESI-MS chromatographic method. The antioxidant activity of the tested samples was assessed using DPPH and ABTS assays. Cytotoxicity was also determined using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests to assess the viability and metabolism of fibroblast and keratinocyte skin cells. Potential anti-aging properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of the metalloproteinases collagenase and elastase. Tests showed that the extract and the ferment have antioxidant properties and stimulate the proliferation of both cell types. The study also assessed the anti-inflammatory activity of the extract and ferment by monitoring levels of the pro-inflammatory interleukins IL-6, IL-1ß, tumor necrosis factor (TNF-α) and anti-inflammatory IL-10 in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-treated fibroblast cells. The results indicate that both the S. nigra extract and its kombucha ferment can be effective in preventing free-radical-induced cell damage and have positive effects on skin cell health.

In Vitro Evaluation of Antioxidant and Protective Potential of Kombucha-Fermented Black Berry Extracts against H2O2-Induced Oxidative Stress in Human Skin Cells and Yeast Model.

The fruits of R. nigrum L., A. melanocarpa Michx., and V. myrtillus L. are well-known natural plant materials with proven antioxidant activity. This work attempts to compare the antioxidant properties of extracts of these plants and ferments obtained during their fermentation using a consortium of microorganisms referred to as kombucha. As part of the work, a phytochemical analysis of extracts and ferments was carried out using the UPLC-MS method and the content of the main components was determined. The antioxidant properties of the tested samples and their cytotoxicity were assessed with the use of DPPH and ABTS radicals. The protective effect against hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress was also assessed. The possibility of inhibiting the increase in the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species was carried out on both human skin cells (keratinocytes and fibroblasts) and the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae (wild-type strains and sod1Δ deletion mutants). The conducted analyses showed that the ferments obtained are characterized by a greater variety of biologically active compounds; in most cases they do not cause a cytotoxic effect, show strong antioxidant properties, and can reduce oxidative stress in both human and yeast cells. This effect depends on the concentration used and the fermentation time. The results obtained indicate that the tested ferments can be considered as an extremely valuable raw material protecting cells against the negative effects of oxidative stress.

Phenolic Profile and Comparison of the Antioxidant, Anti-Ageing, Anti-Inflammatory, and Protective Activities of Borago officinalis Extracts on Skin Cells.

In this study, methanol and water-methanol extracts of borage (Borago officinalis) herb dried using various methods were analysed for their phenolic profile and biological activity. Twelve compounds, including flavonoids (astragalin, kaempferol 4-glucoside, rutoside, and vitexin) and phenolic acids (caffeic, chlorogenic, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic, ferulic, p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, rosmarinic, and syringic), were determined qualitatively and quantitatively in B. officinalis extracts by the HPLC-DAD method. The highest total flavonoid content was confirmed for the methanol extract from the hot-air-dried herb, while the methanol extract from the air-dried herb was most abundant in phenolic acids. The results of in vitro tests on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (BJ) showed that the extracts were able to reduce the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species in skin cells. Tests performed to assess inhibition of protein denaturation, lipoxygenase activity, and proteinase activity demonstrated that borage extracts have anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, the methanol extract of the herb dried in a convection oven showed the strongest inhibition of both collagenase and elastase activity, which is indicative of anti-ageing properties. The results show that the borage extracts are a source of valuable bioactive compounds with beneficial properties in the context of skin cell protection.

Evaluation of the Antioxidant, Cytoprotective and Antityrosinase Effects of Schisandra chinensis Extracts and Their Applicability in Skin Care Product.

Plant extracts have been widely used for skin care for many centuries, and nowadays, they are commonly applied for the development and enrichment of new cosmetic preparations. The present study aimed the assessment of the biological activity of aqueous Schisandra chinensis extracts as a potential ingredient of skin care products. The aspects studied involved the ability to neutralize free radicals, impact on viability and metabolism of keratinocytes, as well as tyrosinase inhibitory potential. Our study showed that aqueous S. chinensis extracts have a positive effect on keratinocyte growth and have high antioxidant potential and strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity. UPLC-MS analysis revealed that three groups of phenolic compounds were predominant in the analyzed extract, including lignans, phenolic acids and flavonoids and protocatechiuc and p-coumaryl quinic acids were predominant. Moreover, microwave-assisted extraction, followed by heat reflux extraction, was the most effective for extracting polyphenols. Furthermore, a prototypical natural body washes gel formulation containing the previously prepared extracts was developed. The irritation potential and viscosity were assessed for each of the formulations. The study demonstrated that the addition of these extracts to body wash gel formulations has a positive effect on their quality and may contribute to a decrease in skin irritation. In summary, S. chinensis aqueous extracts can be seen as an innovative ingredient useful in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.

Assessment of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties and Safety of Use of Model Skin Tonics with Kombucha-Fermented Red Berry Extracts.

Kombucha is a health-promoting beverage that is produced by fermenting sweetened tea using symbiotic cultures of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter, and yeast of the genus Saccharomyces. This study compared the cosmetic and dermatological properties of the extracts of the following redberries: R. rubrum, F. vesca, and R. idaeus, and their ferments, which were obtained by fermentation for 10 and 20 days using tea fungus. For this purpose, the fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of their chemical composition using the HPLC/ESI-MS chromatographic method, demonstrating the high content of biologically active compounds that were present in the ferments. The antioxidant activity of the tested samples was evaluated using DPPH and ABTS tests, as well as by evaluating the scavenging of the external and intracellular free radicals. The cytotoxicity of the extracts and the ferments, as well as the cosmetic formulations, were also determined by conducting Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests assessing the cell viability and metabolism using skin cell lines: fibroblasts and keratinocytes. In addition, application tests were conducted showing the positive effects of the model cosmetic tonics on the TEWL, the skin hydration, and the skin pH. The results indicate that both the extracts and the ferments that were obtained from kombucha can be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

In Vitro Evaluation of Anti-Inflammatory and Protective Potential of an Extract from Cornus mas L. Fruit against H2O2-Induced Oxidative Stress in Human Skin Keratinocytes and Fibroblasts.

Cornus mas L. is a rich source of valuable compounds with pro-health properties and, therefore, may be attractive for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. This paper attempts to assess the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and protective effect of an extract from C. mas fruit on skin cells in vitro. The phytochemical analysis of the extract was carried out using UPLC-MS and the content of the main components was determined. The biological activity of the extract was assessed by in vitro analysis using two human cell lines: keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (BJ). Additionally, the ability of this extract to regulate gene expression (SOD-1, Nox-4) in skin cells was evaluated. Moreover, the impact of the extract and its main components, including loganic acid and cornuside, on the level of inflammatory cytokines in H2O2-treated cells was assessed. The tests showed that the extract has strong antioxidant properties and stimulates the proliferation of both types of cells. The results evidence that the Cornus mas L. fruit extract significantly reduces the level of reactive oxygen species in the cells tested and can modulate the expression of genes closely related to oxidative stress. Moreover, it suppresses the production of IL-6, IL-8, and TNF-α, and the effect was related to loganic acid and cornuside. The present research indicates that the analyzed dogwood extract can be an effective means of prevention of cell damage caused by free radicals and have a positive effect on the condition of skin cells.

Assessment of Cosmetic Properties and Safety of Use of Model Washing Gels with Reishi, Maitake and Lion's Mane Extracts.

Natural cosmetics are becoming more and more popular every day. For this reason, this work investigates the properties of mushroom extracts, which are not as widely used in the cosmetics industry as plant ingredients. Water extracts of Grifolafrondosa (Maitake), Hericiumerinaceus (Lion's Mane) and Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) were tested for their antioxidant properties, bioactive substances content, skin cell toxicity, ability to limit TEWL, effect on skin hydration and pH, and skin irritation. Our research showed that Maitake extract contained the highest amount of flavonoids and phenols, and also showed the most effective scavenging of DPPH and ABTS radicals as well as Chelation of Fe2+ and FRAP radicals, which were 39.84% and 82.12% in a concentration of 1000 µg/mL, respectively. All tested extracts did not increase the amount of ROS in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The addition of mushroom extracts to washing gels reduced the irritating effect on skin, and reduced the intracellular production of free radicals, compared with the cosmetic base. Moreover, it was shown that the analyzedcosmetics had a positive effect on the pH and hydration of the skin, and reduced TEWL.

Corrigendum: Assessment of the anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and anti-aging properties and possible use on the skin of hydrogels containing Epilobium angustifolium L. extracts.

[This corrects the article DOI: 10.3389/fphar.2022.896706.].

Assessment of the Anti-Inflammatory, Antibacterial and Anti-Aging Properties and Possible Use on the Skin of Hydrogels Containing Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts.

Epilobium angustifolium L. is an ethnomedicinal plant known as a medicinal plant in many regions of the world, among others, in various skin diseases. Despite the great interest in this plant, there are still few reports of biological activity of ready-made dermatological or cosmetical preparations containing the E. angustifolium extracts. The antioxidant, anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial properties and toxicity, wound healing, and skin permeation of topical hydrogels containing E. angustifolium extracts (HEas) was assessed. First, the plant extracts were prepared using three solvents: 70% (v/v) ethanol, 70% (v/v) isopropanol and water, next by preparing hydrogels witch by dry extracts (HEa-EtOH), (HEa-iPrOH) and (HEa-WA), respectively. Finally, the content of selected phenolic acids in the HEas was evaluated by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). All the HEas were characterized by high antioxidant activity. The most increased antibacterial activity was observed for a strain of Streptococcus pneumoniae ATCC 49619, Escherichia coli, Enterococcus faecalis ATCC 29212, Enterococcus faecium, Sarcina lutea ATCC 9341 and Bacillus pseudomycoides, while the strains of Streptococcus epidermidis, Bacillus subtilis, and Staphylococcus aureus were the least sensitive. All the HEas showed a reduction in the activity of lipoxygenase enzymes, proteases, and inhibition of protein denaturation. The HEa-EtOH and HEa-iPrOH also enhanced the wound healing activity of HDF cells. Additionally, in vitro penetration studies were performed using the Franz diffusion cells. These studies showed that the active ingredients contained in E. angustifolium penetrate through human skin and accumulate in it. Furthermore, the hydrogels containing E. angustifolium extracts showed a broad spectrum of activity. Therefore, they can be considered as an interesting alternative for dermatologic and cosmetic preparations.

Evaluation of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Kombucha-Fermented Berry Leaf Extracts Considered to Be By-Products.

Leaves of Rubus fruticosus L., Vaccinum myrtillus L., Ribes nigrum L. and Fragaria vesca L. are considered agro-waste of the berry industry, but they can be a rich source of valuable bioactive compounds used in cosmetic industry. In this study, kombucha-fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. Polyphenol compounds were identified by HPLC/DAD/ESI-MS. The antioxidant potential was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of intracellular free radicals contained in keratinocytes and fibroblasts and by DPPH and ABTS assay, obtaining a higher radical scavenging capacity for the ferments, especially for R. fruticosus and V. myrtillus ferments. Assessment of the cytotoxicity on skin cell lines showed their positive effect on the viability of fibroblasts and keratinocytes (especially for the ferments after 10 days of fermentation). The potential anti-ageing properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases, obtaining almost 30% inhibition of collagenase and elastase in the case of fermented V. myrtillus. Moreover, when the samples were applied to the skin, the positive effect of ferments on skin hydration and pH was demonstrated, which indicates that kombucha berry leaf extracts may be an innovative cosmetic ingredient.

Flower Extracts as Multifunctional Dyes in the Cosmetics Industry.

Flowers are a natural source of bioactive compounds that not only have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, but can also be used as natural dyes. For this reason, nowadays plants are widely used to produce natural cosmetics and foods. In these studies, the properties of the water extracts of Papaver rhoeas L., Punica granatum L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., and Gomphrena globosa L., as bioactive, natural dyes, were investigated. Plant flower extracts were tested for their antioxidant (ABTS and DPPH radical methods) and anti-inflammatory effects by determining the ability to inhibit the activity of lipoxygenase and proteinase. The extracts were tested for their cytotoxic effect on skin cells, using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability to inhibit the activity of enzymes responsible for the destruction of elastin and collagen was also studied. Research has shown that extracts have no toxic effect on skin cells, are a rich source of antioxidants and show the ability to inhibit the activity of elastase and collagenase enzymes. P. rhoeas extract showed the strongest antioxidant properties with IC50 value of 24.8 ± 0.42 µg/mL and 47.5 ± 1.01 µg/mL in ABTS and DPPH tests, respectively. The tested plants are also characterized by an anti-inflammatory property, for which the ability to inhibit lipoxygenase at a level above 80% and proteinase at the level of about 55% was noted. Extracts from P. rhoeas, C. ternatea, and C. tinctorius show the strongest coloring ability and can permanently dye cosmetic products, without significant color changes during the storage of the product.