Modelos avançados de pele humana 3D in vitro: epiderme bioimpressa e pele tricamada contendo hipoderme para avaliação de segurança e mimético de dermatite atópica nocaute de IL-13Rα2 para estudo da função barreira / Advanced in vitro 3D human skin models: bioprinted epidermis and trilayer skin containing hypodermis for safety assessment and atopic dermatitis mimetic with IL-13Rα2 knockout for barrier function study

A reconstrução de modelos avançados de pele tridimensional in vitro, que corresponda de forma mais fidedigna ao complexo microambiente da pele humana, depende da utilização de inovações tecnológicas e da adição de novos tipos celulares representativos da pele humana. Desta maneira, estes miméticos fornecem uma plataforma de alta relevância para estudos de fisiopatologia da pele, além de propiciar um sistema para a avaliação da segurança e eficácia de cosméticos e medicamentos alternativo ao uso de animais. Dessa maneira, o Capítulo I compara a performance de uma epiderme reconstruída humana (RHE) bioimpressa com a manual utilizando o teste in vitro de irritação cutânea descrito no guia OCDE número 439. Nossos resultados demonstram que ambos os modelos de pele exibiram morfologia estratificada e a função barreira epidérmica equivalente aos modelos validados. Nos testes de irritação in vitro, ambos modelos distinguiram corretamente as substâncias de referência, classificadas entre irritantes ou não-irritantes de acordo com o limiar de viabilidade de 50%. Esse resultado indica que a bioimpressora poderia ser de grande utilidade para a automação da reconstrução de modelos epidérmicos. O tecido hipodérmico possui importante papel na homeostase da pele humana. O Capítulo II aborda a reconstrução de uma pele tricamada, contendo a camada hipodérmica, além da epiderme e derme. Usando esferoides de adipócitos diferenciados in vitro, um modelo de pele tricamada em matriz de colágeno foi construído. Ao comparar este com a pele bicamada obtivemos maior expressão de loricrina e involucrina no modelo tricamada, indicando um potencial para maior função barreira, além de maior expressão de PPAR-γ. Testes de função barreira através da resistividade elétrica não demonstraram diferenças entre os modelos, mas a aplicação de SDS a 5 mg/ml por 18 horas induziu o aumento da viabilidade na pele tricamada. Além disso, após a aplicação de SDS a 2,5% para induzir uma irritação aguda, seguida de recuperação por 42h, obtivemos maior viabilidade na pele tricamada, indicando melhor recuperação pós-lesão irritativa induzida. A pele tricamada é promissora para estudos do metabolismo da pele humana e recuperação de lesões. A dermatite atópica (DA) é uma doença eczematosa de pele caracterizada por inflamação do tipo Th2 e alteração da barreira epidérmica. IL-13 e IL-4 são centrais no comprometimento da barreira epidérmica na DA. Entre os receptores de IL-13 em queratinócitos, o receptor IL-13Rα2, tem um papel controverso na alteração da barreira cutânea. O objetivo do Capítulo III foi estudar a deleção da expressão de IL-13Rα2 em RHE, que foram expostas a IL-4 e IL-13, e avaliadas conforme a expressão dos receptores e de proteínas alteradas na DA. As epidermes com knockout em IL-13Rα2 apresentaram redução da expressão de NELL2 (p<0,0021), tipicamente aumentadas na DA. Além disso, houve redução da expressão do receptor do IL-2Rγ. Assim, um possível papel de exacerbação da DA do receptor IL-13Rα2 deve ser estudado mais extensamente para ser caracterizado

The reconstruction of advanced three-dimensional in vitro skin models, which more reliably correspond to the complex microenvironment of human skin, depends on the use of technological innovations and the addition of new cell types representative of human skin.In this way, these mimetics provide a highly relevant platform for studies of skin pathophysiology, in addition to providing a system for evaluating the safety and efficacy of cosmetics and medicines alternative to animal use. In this way, Chapter I compares the performance of a bioprinted human reconstructed epidermis (RHE) with a manual one using the in vitro skin irritation test described in OECD guide number 439. Our results demonstrate that both skin models exhibited stratified morphology and the epidermal barrier function equivalent to validated models. In in vitro irritation tests, both models correctly distinguished the reference substances, classified as irritating or non-irritating according to the viability threshold of 50%. This result indicates that the bioprinter could be of great use for automating the reconstruction of epidermal models Hypodermic tissue plays an important role in the homeostasis of human skin. Chapter II addresses the reconstruction of a three-layer skin, containing the hypodermic layer, in addition to the epidermis and dermis. Using in vitro differentiated adipocyte spheroids, a trilayer skin model in collagen matrix was constructed. When comparing this with bilayer skin, we obtained greater expression of loricrin and involucrin in the trilayer model, indicating a potential for greater barrier function, in addition to greater expression of PPAR-γ . Barrier function tests using electrical resistivity did not demonstrate differences between the models, but the application of SDS at 5 mg/ml for 18 hours induced an increase in viability in the three-layer skin. Furthermore, after applying 2.5% SDS to induce acute irritation, followed by recovery for 42 hours, we obtained greater viability in the three-layer skin, indicating better recovery after induced irritant injury. Trilayer skin holds promise for studies of human skin metabolism and injury recovery. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is an eczematous skin disease characterized by Th2-type inflammation and alteration of the epidermal barrier. IL-13 and IL-4 are central to the impairment of the epidermal barrier in AD. Among the IL-13 receptors on keratinocytes, the IL-13Rα2 receptor has a controversial role in altering the skin barrier. The objective of Chapter III was to study the deletion of IL-13Rα2 expression in RHE, which were exposed to IL-4 and IL-13, and evaluated according to the expression of receptors and proteins altered in AD. Epidermis with IL-13Rα2 knockout showed reduced NELL2 expression (p<0.0021), typically increased in AD. Furthermore, there was a reduction in the expression of the IL-2Rγ receptor. Therefore, a possible AD exacerbation role of the IL-13Rα2 receptor should be studied more extensively to be characterized

The Many Faces of Pediatric Acne: How to Tailor Nonprescription Acne Treatment and Skincare Using Cleansers and Moisturizers.

BACKGROUND: Acne vulgaris (acne) is a common, complex, multifactorial disorder. Various expressions of acne in childhood can be categorized by age, severity, and pubertal status. OBJECTIVE: To improve pediatric acne patients’ outcomes, various expressions of pediatric acne to educate and tailor nonprescription acne treatment and skincare using cleansers and moisturizers were defined and discussed. METHODS: An expert panel of pediatric dermatologists and dermatologists reviewed and discussed nonprescription acne treatment and skincare literature. The results from the literature searches were used together with the panel’s expert opinion and experience to adopt various expressions of pediatric acne and prevention, treatment, and maintenance of the condition using nonprescription acne treatment and skincare. RESULTS: The panel agreed on sixteen acne patient profiles addressing various age categories of pediatric acne: neonatal acne: birth to ≤ 8 weeks; infantile acne: 8 weeks to ≤1 year; mid-childhood acne: 1 year to <7 years; preadolescent acne: ≥7 to 12 years; adolescent acne: ≥12 to 19 years or after menarche for girls. Nonprescription acne treatment and skincare products containing lipids such as ceramides play an important role in monotherapy, adjunctive, and maintenance treatment; however, their role in pediatric acne is not well defined and requires more studies. CONCLUSION: Pediatric acne deserves more attention from healthcare providers treating children regarding differential diagnosis, treatment, and maintenance using nonprescription acne treatment and skincare. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21(6):602-612. doi:10.36849/JDD.6872.

Physicochemical characterization and cosmetic applications of Passiflora nitida Kunth leaf extract

Abstract Passiflora nitida Kunth, an Amazonian Passiflora species, is little studied, although the specie's high biological potential. Herein the plant's pharmacognostic characterization, extract production, antioxidant potential evaluation, and application of this extract in cosmetic products is reported. The physical chemical parameters analyzed were particle size by sieve analysis, loss through drying, extractive yield, total ash content, laser granulometry, specific surface area and pore diameter (SBET), differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetry (TG), and wave dispersive X-Ray fluorescence (WDXRF). Total phenol/flavonoid content, LC-MS/MS analysis, DPPH and ABTS antioxidant radical assays, cytotoxicity, melanin, and tyrosinase inhibition in melanocytes test provided evidence to determine the content of the major constituent. P. nitida dry extract provided a fine powder with mesopores determined by SBET, with the TG curve showing five stages of mass loss. The antioxidant potential ranged between 23.5-31.5 mg∙mL-1 and tyrosinase inhibition between 400-654 µg∙mL-1. The species presented an antimelanogenic effect and an inhibitory activity of cellular tyrosinase (26.6%) at 25 µg/mL. The LC-MS/MS analysis of the spray-dried extract displayed the main and minor phenolic compounds constituting this sample. The results indicate that P. nitida extract has promising features for the development of cosmetic formulations

Antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of dihydroquercetin esters

Abstract Flavonoids display various beneficial biological properties, such as antioxidant activity and low cytotoxicity, which make them useful ingredients in foods, pharmaceuticals, and functional cosmetics. In particular, dihydroquercetin (DHQ) is found in various forms, and its derivatives exhibit interesting biological properties. Herein, we report the synthesis of acetylated and butyrylated dihydroquercetin derivatives and their antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. The DHQ derivatives were identified using 1H and 13C NMR spectroscopies and high-performance liquid chromatography combined with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry. The chemical stabilities of the acetylated dihydroquercetin derivatives were found to depend on the number of acetate groups, with 3,3',4',4,7-pentaacetyldihydroquercetin found to be the most stable acetylated dihydroquercetin. Furthermore, 7,3',4'-triacetyl- dihydroquercetin exhibited potent antioxidant activity, with an IC50 of 56.67 ± 4.79 µg/mL in the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay, with DHQ exhibiting a value of 32.41 ± 3.35 µg/mL. The reactive-oxygen-species-scavenging activity of 7,3',4'-triacetyldihydroquercetin was highest among the esters in the ferric reducing ability of plasma assay, but lower than that of DHQ. Overall, both DHQ and 7,3',4'-triacetyldihydroquercetin exhibited antimicrobial behavior against S. aureus and P. acnes using the paper disc assay. DHQ displayed a higher antimicrobial activity, with minimum inhibitory concentrations of 625 µg/mL (P. acnes), 2,500 µg/mL (S. aureus), and 5,000 µg/mL (E. coli). DHQ and acetylated dihydroquercetins are potentially useful as complex antioxidant and antimicrobial materials

Cecropia pachystachya Trécul: a promising ingredient for skin-whitening cosmetics

Abstract Because it promotes the lightening of pigment spots, tyrosinase inhibition is one of the mechanisms of depigmenting cosmetic products. Considering the adverse effects produced by synthetic depigmenting actives, the search for new therapeutic options is desirable, and plant extracts are possible candidates for hyperpigmentation treatment. Glycolic extracts of Cecropia pachystachya Trécul are, therefore, the focus of this study. Its chemical characterization, antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition, and cell viability were evaluated. Glycolic extracts were obtained by macerating the leaves of C. pachystachya in grain alcohol and glycerin or propylene glycol. Both had a similar chemical constitution, the glycerin being more efficient in concentrating phenolic compounds and flavonoids. Analyses by UHPLC-MS detected quinic acid, chlorogenic acid isomers, proanthocyanidin dimers type B and C, catechin/epicatechin, orientin/isoorientin, isoorientin 2"-O-xyloside, vitexin/isovitexin, and rutin. 5-O-caffeoylquinic acid was then quantified was then quantified, with predominance in the extract produced with propylene glycol. These extracts showed a high antioxidant capacity by the method of DPPH, ß-carotene, and nitric oxide. As for depigmenting activity, both extracts were able to inhibit tyrosinase. Cell viability assay also revealed that the extracts could safely be used in concentrations of ≤ 125 µg/mL. Thus, this study demonstrated for the first time that the glycolic extracts of C. pachystachya have promising chemical and biological characteristics for the development of a multifunctional cosmetic with antioxidant and tyrosinase-inhibition activities

Antilipoperoxidative and anti-inflammatory efficacy of multifunctional sunscreens containing ferulic acid

Unprotected chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation generates many harmful effects to human skin and UV filters are essential to health, however, traditional sunscreens do not provide enough protection against cutaneous oxidative stress, a process amplified by UV radiation. Therefore, is been proposed the development of multifunctional photoprotective formulations, acting in the absorption/reflection of UV radiation and assisting in cutaneous homeostasis. In the present study, ferulic acid is used in conjunction with two sunscreens, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone, for the determination of biosafety and efficacy methods, using techniques that better elucidate the effects of ferulic acid. Skin permeation assays were performed by applying a formulation containing the three substances in the stratum corneum of volunteers, which were removed by the tape stripping method (ex vivo) with follow quantification by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The test was able to evaluate the penetration depth of the substances, characterizing them. In addition, the simultaneous quantification of the three substances was performed by a single and fast method, facilitating their analysis and improving the technique. Also, TBARS (thiobarbituric acid reactive substances) assays were performed in stratum corneum removed by tape stripping (ex vivo), evaluating the potential of cutaneous lipid peroxidation, with or without ferulic acid. To date, it is the first time that TBARS method is used to characterize the stratum corneum (ex vivo) and quantified by HPLC. The protocol developed may aid in the efficacy of antioxidant agents in studies aimed at elucidating the level of lipid peroxidation caused by drugs and cosmetics, and even in carrying out baseline studies characterizing different ethnicities and genders. As last, an anti-inflammatory in vivo assay with Laser Doppler flowmetry equipment was used to compare the sunscreen formulation with or without ferulic acid. Data indicated that the antioxidant reduced the angular coefficient of the perfusion units, mitigating the inflammatory effects. Furthermore, a significant difference was found between the genders, suggesting a more pronounced inflammatory reaction in women. Ferulic acid proved to be a valuable resource, besides being safe and raise the SPF of sunscreens, it also mitigates the effects of inflammation

A exposição crônica desprotegida à radiação ultravioleta (UV) contribui para o desenvolvimento de câncer de pele e os filtros solares são relevantes para evitar tais efeitos prejudiciais, porém, os protetores solares tradicionais não geram proteção suficiente contra o estresse oxidativo cutâneo. Logo, espera-se o desenvolvimento de formulações fotoprotetoras multifuncionais, atuando não somente na absorção e/ou reflexão da radiação UV, mas, também, auxiliando na homeostase cutânea, com presença de agentes antioxidantes. No presente estudo foi utilizado o ácido ferúlico conjuntamente com dois filtros solares, o bemotrizinol e a triazona de octila, para determinação de métodos de segurança e eficácia, utilizando técnicas que melhor elucidem e comprovem os efeitos do ácido ferúlico. Foram realizados ensaios de permeação cutânea pela aplicação tópica de formulação contendo as três substâncias em voluntários, sendo o estrato córneo retirado pelo método de tape stripping (ex vivo) com subsequente quantificação por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência (CLAE). O ensaio pôde avaliar a profundidade de penetração das substâncias, caracterizando-as. Ademais, a quantificação simultânea das três substâncias foi efetuada por método único e rápido, facilitando análise com aprimoramento da técnica. Em adição, foi realizado ensaios de TBARS (substâncias reativas ao ácido tiobarbitúrico) em estrato córneo removido por tape stripping (ex vivo), para avaliar o potencial de peroxidação lipídica cutânea, contendo ou não o ácido ferúlico. Até o presente momento, é a primeira vez que o método TBARS é utilizado para caracterização do estrato córneo (ex vivo) e quantificada por CLAE. O protocolo desenvolvido pode auxiliar na eficácia de agentes antioxidantes, em estudos que visam elucidar o nível de peroxidação lipídica causada por medicamentos e cosméticos e, até mesmo, na realização de estudos de base, caracterizando etnias e gêneros. Ademais, um ensaio anti-inflamatório in vivo com equipamento de fluxometria Laser Doppler foi utilizado para comparar a formulação fotoprotetora com ou sem ácido ferúlico. Os dados indicaram que o antioxidante reduziu o coeficiente angular das unidades de perfusão, mitigando os efeitos inflamatórios. Ainda, foi identificada diferença entre os gêneros, sugerindo reação inflamatória mais pronunciada em mulheres. O ácido ferúlico provou ser um recurso valioso, além de ser seguro e elevar o FPS dos fotoprotetores, também atenuando os efeitos da inflamação

Clustering a Chemical Inventory for Safety Assessment of Fragrance Ingredients: Identifying Read-Across Analogs to Address Data Gaps.

A valuable approach to chemical safety assessment is the use of read-across chemicals to provide safety data to support the assessment of structurally similar chemicals. An inventory of over 6000 discrete organic chemicals used as fragrance materials in consumer products has been clustered into chemical class-based groups for efficient search of read-across sources. We developed a robust, tiered system for chemical classification based on (1) organic functional group, (2) structural similarity and reactivity features of the hydrocarbon skeletons, (3) predicted or experimentally verified Phase I and Phase II metabolism, and (4) expert pruning to consider these variables in the context of specific toxicity end points. The systematic combination of these data yielded clusters, which may be visualized as a top-down hierarchical clustering tree. In this tree, chemical classes are formed at the highest level according to organic functional groups. Each subsequent subcluster stemming from classes in this hierarchy of the cluster is a chemical cluster defined by common organic functional groups and close similarity in the hydrocarbon skeleton. By examining the available experimental data for a toxicological endpoint within each cluster, users can better identify potential read-across chemicals to support safety assessments.

The way forward for assessing the human health safety of cosmetics in the EU - Workshop proceedings.

Although the need for non-animal alternatives has been well recognised for the human health hazard assessment of chemicals in general, it has become especially pressing for cosmetic ingredients due to the full implementation of testing and marketing bans on animal testing under the European Cosmetics Regulation. This means that for the safety assessment of cosmetics, the necessary safety data for both the ingredients and the finished product can be drawn from validated (or scientifically-valid), so-called "Replacement methods". In view of the challenges for safety assessment without recourse to animal test data, the Methodology Working Group of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety organised a workshop in February 2019 to discuss the key issues in regard to the use of animal-free alternative methods for the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients. This perspective article summarises the outcomes of this workshop and reflects on the state-of-the-art and possible way forward for the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients for which no experimental animal data exist. The use and optimisation of "New Approach Methodology" that could be useful tools in the context of the "Next Generation Risk Assessment" and the strategic framework for safety assessment of cosmetics were discussed in depth.

In vitro testing strategy for assessing the skin sensitizing potential of "difficult to test" cosmetic ingredients.

Before placing a new cosmetic ingredient on the market, manufacturers must establish its safety profile, in particular assessing the skin sensitization potential, which is a mandatory requirement for topical applications. Since the ban on animal testing in Europe, and its extension to many parts of the world, a battery of in vitro tests covering the key steps of the Adverse Outcome Pathway (AOP) for skin sensitization is recommended. To date, three in vitro methods are validated in the OECD guidelines (442C, 442D, 442E), and many others are under validation by OECD (2019) and ECVAM. However, there is still no official strategy. Some industrial manufacturers have proposed in vitro strategies with good predictivity, but their studies were mainly based on the testing of simple and "easy to test" substances. This work therefore focused on "difficult to test" ingredients with particular physicochemical properties (i.e. poorly water-soluble components) or with particular intrinsic properties placing them outside the applicability domains of most in vitro models (irritants or cytotoxic like surfactants, complex substances). Furthermore a particular focus was made on weak to moderate sensitizers. The objective was to develop a robust, quick and straightforward testing strategy enabling the evaluation of the skin sensitization potential of "difficult to test" ingredients. In this context, four in vitro test models were used: three validated methods and the Sens-Is® assay, currently in the work plan of the OECD, chosen for its ability to overcome solubility issues and to discriminate irritants from sensitizers. 25 ingredients with particular physicochemical properties were evaluated, chosen among positive or negative sensitizers according to in vivo data (M&K and/or LLNA). Such ingredients, including cleansers, solubilizers, emulsifiers, emollients, active ingredients, preservatives, and antioxidants are indeed essential constituents of cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical formulations. The results analysis on each in vitro test demonstrated that the DPRA model was the less predictive on the chosen ingredients, resulting especially in many false negative responses compared to animal studies, or being unsuited to the mode of action of the selected ingredients. On the contrary, the Sens-Is® assay revealed a real capability to discriminate sensitizers from non-sensitizers. The two other models, KeratinoSensTM and h-CLAT, showed a lower ability to classify the materials correctly than in previously published studies, linked to the particular physicochemical and intrinsic properties of the chosen ingredients and the applicability domains of these in vitro tests. The KeratinoSensTM model tended to overestimate the sensitization potential of the tested ingredients, whereas the h-CLAT model tended to underestimate the sensitizers. Based on these results a new sequential testing strategy was set up combining 1 to 3 models to cover the main key events of the skin sensitization AOP. Sens-Is® model, assessing the first two AOP Key Events with consideration of the ingredient dermal penetration, is chosen as a starting point. The approach is completed, depending on the first response, by the h-CLAT model, assessing Key Event 3, and then potentially KeratinoSensTM assessing Key Event 2, but with a more direct application mode. This new testing strategy increases the accuracy to 88% on the selected ingredients and minimizes the risk of a false negative conclusion, which is crucial from the perspective of the ingredients' users and cosmetic consumers.

Estratégias para identificação e quantificação de aminoácidos tipo micosporinas (MAAs) em cianobactérias e outros organismos para aplicação em cosmética e farmacêutica / Identification and quantification methods of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) in cyanobacteria and other microorganisms for cosmetic and pharmaceutical application

Os aminoácidos tipo micosporinas (MAAs) são compostos, produzidos por algumas espécies de cianobactérias e outros microorganismos, principalmente quando são expostos a radiação ultravioleta (UVR). Estes compostos, que vêm demonstrando funções fotoprotetoras e antioxidantes, têm sido pesquisados para aplicação em protetores solares e em produtos antienvelhecimento. O presente estudo focou na caracterização de cianobactérias e outros organismos quanto à produção de MAAs com potencial aplicação em cosméticos. Neste estudo foram desenvolvidos diversos métodos para identificação (via HPLC-DAD-MS/HRMS), purificação (via HPLC-DAD) e quantificação de MAAs (via LC-MS/MS). Pelo método de identificação de MAAs verificou-se que, das 75 cianobactérias estudadas, 27 cepas (38%) sintetizam MAAs. A cepa Oscilatoria sp. CMMA 1600 produziu a maior diversidade de MAAs. 10 MAAs diferentes foram identificados incluindo um MAA de massa molecular 316 Da. Através de dados espectroscópicos obtidos via HPLC-DAD-HRMS e RMN 1D e 2D confirmou-se que se tratava da micosporina-glicina-alanina. A biossíntese natural deste composto por cianobactérias foi relatada pela primeira vez neste estudo. Quanto à quantificação de MAAs, o protocolo de extração otimizado possibilitou uma excelente recuperação dos compostos de interesse, além de ser bastante simples e não utilizar solventes poluentes. As análises via LC-MS/MS foram realizadas através de experimentos de MRM em modo positivo usando uma coluna de fase reversa. O método validado permitiu determinar e quantificar com precisão os MAAs porphyra-334, shinorina e micosporina-glicina-alanina em corridas de apenas 6 minutos, com limites de deteção inferiores a 0,005 µg.mg -1. Aplicando o método de LC-MS/MS realizaram experimentos de indução de MAAs através de exposição à UVR tendo-se observado um aumento da concentração de MAAs nas cepas que já sintetizam estes compostos e, outras cepas começaram a produzir pelo menos um MAA. As cepas de S. torques-reginae (ITEP-024 e ITEP-026) produziram a maior concentração de MAAs. A cepa ITEP-024 foi ainda exposta a diferentes radiações tendo-se observado que a UVB é que mais influencia a produção de MAAs. Neste estudo foi demonstrado o potencial das cianobactérias como produtores de MAAs que podem ser utilizados como fotoprotores em protetores solares

Mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are UV-absorbing compounds produced by cyanobacteria and other organisms, especially upon exposer to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These compounds are photoprotective and some have additional antioxidant functíons useful to the natural cosmetics market. This study aims to identify MAAs-producing cyanobacteria with potential applicatíons in cosmetics. A HPLC-DAD-MS/HRMS method for the identification of MAAs was developed. Out of the 75 cyanobacteria studied, 27 strains (38%) synthesized MAAs. Oscilatoria sp. CMMA 1600, from homocyte type, produced the greatest diversity of MAAs. 10 different MAAs were identified including a MAA with molecular weight of 316 Da. The chemical structure of mycosporine-glycine-alanine was confirmed by 1D/2D NMR and HRMS analyses. This compound has never been reported from a natural source. In this study, a validated LC-MS/MS quantification method for MAAs is also presented. An easy-to-handle and rapid extraction procedure was developed which uses only water and volatile additives as the extractor solvents. The LC-MS/MS method was performed using multiple reaction monitoring in positive mode with a reverse-phase column. The method enabled the accurate determination and quantification of the MAAs porphyra-334, shinorine and mycosporine-glycine-alanine in a 6 minutes running time, with limits of detection < 0.005 µg.mg-1. MAAs induction experiments were performed through UVR exposure. MAAs are constitutively produced by some cyanobacteria and production was further enhanced following UVirradiance. Other strains start to produce at least one MAA after UV-irradiance. Sphaerospermopsis torques-reginae strain (ITEP-024 and ITEP-026) produced the highest concentration of these photoprotective compounds. S. torques-reginae ITEP 024 strain was further exposed to different radiation compositíons. MAAs were significantly influenced by UVB. In this study, the potential of cyanobacteria as MAA producers, that can be used as photoprotectors in sunscreens, has been demonstrated

The impact of skin care products on skin chemistry and microbiome dynamics.

BACKGROUND: Use of skin personal care products on a regular basis is nearly ubiquitous, but their effects on molecular and microbial diversity of the skin are unknown. We evaluated the impact of four beauty products (a facial lotion, a moisturizer, a foot powder, and a deodorant) on 11 volunteers over 9 weeks. RESULTS: Mass spectrometry and 16S rRNA inventories of the skin revealed decreases in chemical as well as in bacterial and archaeal diversity on halting deodorant use. Specific compounds from beauty products used before the study remain detectable with half-lives of 0.5-1.9 weeks. The deodorant and foot powder increased molecular, bacterial, and archaeal diversity, while arm and face lotions had little effect on bacterial and archaeal but increased chemical diversity. Personal care product effects last for weeks and produce highly individualized responses, including alterations in steroid and pheromone levels and in bacterial and archaeal ecosystem structure and dynamics. CONCLUSIONS: These findings may lead to next-generation precision beauty products and therapies for skin disorders.

Cosmetic Versus Medicine: How Does Your Country Define Sunscreen?

Skin cancer (melanoma and non-melanoma) is the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the United States of America, and non-melanoma skin cancer is the most common cause of Australian hospitalisations with cancer as the principle diagnosis, having a huge cost to the country's health care system. Primary and secondary skin cancer prevention is globally inadequate, with only 3 in 10 American adults using sun protection routinely. Evidence suggests that regular sunscreen use in Australians prevents both melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers, and American research has found that daily sunscreen use reduced the incidence of melanoma - the most skin cancer deaths - by half. Despite this, in many countries and regions around the world, a major ongoing divergence remains on the classification of sunscreen as either a cosmetic product or a form of medical therapy, which in turn affects the consumers' attitudes towards the use of sunscreen. This is also affected by the increasing use of the internet, which has made the purchasing of products internationally convenient and easy for consumers worldwide, including sunscreen products, which are frequently marketed online. There is variation between each country or region and their regulations of sunscreen affect the consequent labelling claims of sunscreen products. This affects the unsuspecting consumer's choices in purchasing sun protection, which may be misinformed. Australia, Canada, and the US are the only countries to classify sunscreen as a form of medical therapy. This paper explores the current classification of sunscreen products in countries and regions around the world and discusses the impact of these discrepancies and similarities on the attitudes of consumers towards sunscreen use. Finally, we make suggestions on changes that can be made to encourage sunscreen use and safe sunscreen purchasing. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018;17(8):899-904.

Application of Check-All-That-Apply (CATA) Questions for Sensory Characterization of Cosmetic Emulsions by Untrained Consumers.

The sales potential of cosmetic products is greatly determined by skin feel and skin sensory performance. To please the target audience, it is important to gather information about consumers' perception of products' sensory characteristics. In this study, six different emulsions were formulated. Samples represented three different types of emulsions, including steric-stabilized oil-in-water (O/W), liquid crystal-stabilized O/W, and water-in-oil emulsions, providing different skin feel and aesthetics. Emulsions within the same group differed in the emollients, providing similar sensory attributes. The aim was to have 50 consumers evaluate the emulsions' sensory characteristics. Using a check-all-that-apply (CATA) survey, consumers provided information about their perception of appearance, rub-out, pick-up, and afterfeel. Consumers effectively discriminated between the emulsions. Statistical analysis showed significant differences for 15 sensory attributes in the before, during, and after phases. Our findings suggest that emulsifiers, and not emollients, have the dominant role in determining the aesthetics of a skin care emulsion, similar to previous findings. The fact that untrained consumers provided similar results as trained panelists suggests the validity of the CATA survey and its reliability as a screening tool in the product development process. CATA questions may serve as a viable complimentary to descriptive sensory analysis performed by trained panelists.

A ß-galactosidase-expressing E. coli culture as an alternative test to identify skin sensitizers and non-sensitizers.

Although the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) has adopted several in vitro methods with reasonable predictive capacity, alternative methods for identifying skin sensitizers and non-sensitizers with reliability and simplicity are still required for more efficient and economic prediction. The present study was to design an in vitro system with the use of a ß-galactosidase-expressing E. coli culture for simpler but sufficiently accurate classification of skin sensitizers and non-sensitizers. A LacZ gene-containing E. coli strain that is capable of producing ß-galactosidase enzyme was induced by isopropyl ß-D-1-thiogalactopyranoside with concomitant treatment with test chemicals. After 6-hr incubation, cells were lysed and ß-galactosidase enzyme activity was monitored colorimetrically by using O-nitrophenyl-D-galactopyranoside as a substrate. Following optimization of several experimental conditions, 22 skin sensitizers and 11 non-sensitizers were examined to assess predictive capacity of this method. The results indicated that predictivity was as follows: 90.9% sensitivity, 81.8% specificity, and 87.9% accuracy, when 17.3% of control activity was used as the cut-off value to separate sensitizers from non-sensitizers. Data suggested that the current bacterial system expressing ß-galactosidase may serve as a useful alternative test for classifying skin sensitizers and non-sensitizers, without the utilization of animals or mammalian cell cultures.

Cosmetics Europe compilation of historical serious eye damage/eye irritation in vivo data analysed by drivers of classification to support the selection of chemicals for development and evaluation of alternative methods/strategies: the Draize eye test Reference Database (DRD).

A thorough understanding of which of the effects assessed in the in vivo Draize eye test are responsible for driving UN GHS/EU CLP classification is critical for an adequate selection of chemicals to be used in the development and/or evaluation of alternative methods/strategies and for properly assessing their predictive capacity and limitations. For this reason, Cosmetics Europe has compiled a database of Draize data (Draize eye test Reference Database, DRD) from external lists that were created to support past validation activities. This database contains 681 independent in vivo studies on 634 individual chemicals representing a wide range of chemical classes. A description of all the ocular effects observed in vivo, i.e. degree of severity and persistence of corneal opacity (CO), iritis, and/or conjunctiva effects, was added for each individual study in the database, and the studies were categorised according to their UN GHS/EU CLP classification and the main effect driving the classification. An evaluation of the various in vivo drivers of classification compiled in the database was performed to establish which of these are most important from a regulatory point of view. These analyses established that the most important drivers for Cat 1 Classification are (1) CO mean ≥ 3 (days 1-3) (severity) and (2) CO persistence on day 21 in the absence of severity, and those for Cat 2 classification are (3) CO mean ≥ 1 and (4) conjunctival redness mean ≥ 2. Moreover, it is shown that all classifiable effects (including persistence and CO = 4) should be present in ≥60 % of the animals to drive a classification. As a consequence, our analyses suggest the need for a critical revision of the UN GHS/EU CLP decision criteria for the Cat 1 classification of chemicals. Finally, a number of key criteria are identified that should be taken into consideration when selecting reference chemicals for the development, evaluation and/or validation of alternative methods and/or strategies for serious eye damage/eye irritation testing. Most important, the DRD is an invaluable tool for any future activity involving the selection of reference chemicals.

Development of sunscreen products containing passion fruit seed extract

Abstract Application of sunscreen is the most established method of protecting skin from premature aging and photoaging. In this study, the passion fruit seed extract, enriched with biologically beneficial phenolics, was formulated into sun-protective makeup product. The UVB protection of concealer mousse was found have twofold higher sun protection factor (SPF) than the liquid foundation (15.48 ± 1.60 and 5.88 ± 0.30, respectively). The SPF of concealer mousse as well as the liquid foundation containing 0.1% and 0.3% of the passion fruit seed extract were 18.75 ± 0.28, 18.99 ± 0.71 and 9.32 ± 0.88, 9.77 ± 1.37, respectively. Therefore, the concealers with a similar sun-protective efficacy (p>0.05) were included for stability test accordingly. The sun-protective efficacy did not significantly shift (p>0.05) because the 0.1% and 0.3% passion fruit extract concealers had SPF of 18.09 ± 1.48 and 18.60 ± 1.21. The concealers exhibited UVA photoprotection with a boot star rating of 4 and a critical wavelength wider than 370 nm. The safety of 0.1% passion fruit extract concealer mousse was assessed. It did not cause skin irritation when assessed in human volunteers. This sunscreen makeup product provides UVA and UVB protection and is therefore suitable for daily application.

Guava: phytochemical composition of a potential source of antioxidants for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications

ABSTRACT Guava (Psidium guajava L.) is a native fruit of the American tropics with commercial applications for its taste, flavor and aroma. Numerous pharmacological uses have been described for it, such as the antiseptic effect of its leaves, the use of the fresh fruit and tea from its leaves for the treatment of diarrhea, dysentery, diabetes mellitus, and others. However, considering its rich composition, the guava also is a potential source of antioxidants to be used in the development of new formulations for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications, the main focus of this research. Herein, we describe the study of the phytochemical composition and the antioxidant activity of a guava extract prepared with non-toxic solvents aiming its use at biological applications. High performance liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry were employed to identify the major components, while thermoanalytical measurements and hot stage microscopy were used to assess the chemical stability of guava fruit extract. The antioxidant activity was also evaluated assessing the SOD-like activity and ABTS free radical scavenger. The results show that the extract is a rich source of phenolic compounds, such as quercetin, kaempferol, schottenol, among many others. All of the components found in guava extract exhibit biological effects according to the literature data, mainly antioxidant properties.

Gelatin-based microspheres crosslinked with glutaraldehyde and rutin oriented to cosmetics

ABSTRACT Glutaraldehyde (GTA) has been extensively used as a gelatin crosslinking agent, however, new natural ones have been suggested as more biocompatible. Polyphenols are possible candidates and the flavonols, such as rutin (RUT), also exhibit potential synergism with sunscreens and antioxidant agents used in cosmetics. In this work, gelatin microspheres (M0) were obtained and crosslinked with GTA 10 mM (MG) or RUT 10 mM (MR), dissolved in acetone:NaOH 0,01M (70:30 v/v). MG exhibited crosslinking extent of 54.4%. Gelatin, M0, MG and MR did not elicit any signs of skin damage, regarding the formation of erythema, the barrier function disruption and negative interference in the stratum corneum hydration. Oily dispersions containing M0, MG or MR, isolated or combined with benzophenone-3 or octyl methoxycinnamate, suggested that the microspheres, at a 5.0% w/w, had no additional chemical or physical photoprotective effect in vitro. Crosslinking with RUT had occurred, but in a lower degree than GTA. Microspheres had not improved sun protection parameters, although, non-treated gelatin interfered positively with the SPF for both UV filters. The in vivo studies demonstrated that these materials had very good skin compatibility.

Microencapsulation of Ascorbic Acid for Cosmetic by Utilizing Self-assembly of Phase Separated Polymer.

Micrometer-sized polymer particles encapsulated ascorbic acid (vitamin C; VC) were successfully prepared by the three types of the self-assembling method, those are, phase separation and self-assembly of added polymer at the oil-water interface in emulsion, microsuspension polymerization utilizing the self-assembling of phase separated polymer (SaPSeP) method, and their hybrid method. In the stability study at 50°C for 2 months, the three kinds of capsule particles exhibited effective protection of VC from the interaction with other components in cosmetic consisting of water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. The encapsulated VC was easily released from the capsule particles by an excess of water. These encapsulation methods will be useful for the stabilization of water-soluble substances in cosmetic consisting of W/O emulsion.

Use of Opuntia ficus-indica (L. ) Mill extracts from Brazilian Caatinga as an alternative of natural moisturizer in cosmetic formulations

ABSTRACT The aim of this work was the obtainment of Opuntia fícus-indica (L.) Mill extract for the development of cosmetic formulations and in vivo evaluation of its moisturizing effects. The formulations were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. Organoleptic characteristics, pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. The evaluation of moisturizing efficacy of the emulsions formulated with 3.0% of Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 containing 1.0 and 3.0% of O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract (EHG001) was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer(r)) and the transepidermal water loss - TEWL evaluation (Tewameter(r)). The emulsions formulated were stable, exhibiting pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior. The results of evaluation of moisturizing efficacy showed increased skin hydration after five hours by mainly increasing the skin barrier effect. The formulations containing 1.0 and 3.0% of EHG001 enhanced the skin barrier effect by reducing TEWL up to four hours after application. The results observed suggest that O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract may act through a humectant and occlusion mechanism.