Sunscreen Secondary Claims: Market Differentiation or Market Confusion?

This chapter is focused on those products that are sold primarily as sun protection products and considers the additional claims made for these that are intended to differentiate and imply additional benefits. It is essentially an overview, as each claim would require an individual chapter to deal with in detail. We do not consider products with another intended primary use, such as moisturizer or colour comments, which are, in themselves "secondary sunscreens," defined specifically in Australia [AS/NZS 2604:2012 Sunscreen products - Evaluation and classification] or Canada. Primarily, the chapter serves as a reference guide. An argument is presented for the potential negative impact on the credibility of the whole product category brought about by the marketing strategy of attempting to segment on the basis of either criticism of competitor products and/or targeting niche groups of consumers. The European Union (EU) Regulation 655/2013 [Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 laying down common criteria for the justification of claims used in relation to cosmetic products] states 6 criteria for representation of products. These are Legal Compliance, Truthfulness, Evidential Support, Honesty, Fairness and Informed Decision Making. More specifically to sunscreens, the EU Synthesis Document makes recommendation on efficacy and related claims [European Union Synthesis Document - Commission recommendation on the efficacy of sunscreen products and claims related thereto]. This chapter does not consider or test these criteria but does include a table of claims and suggested ways to substantiate these.

Prevalence of Contact Allergens in Personal Care Products for Babies and Children.

BACKGROUND: Personal care products marketed for babies and children are often regarded as "safe" or "gentle." However, little is known about the prevalence of contact allergens in these types of products. OBJECTIVE: This study assessed the prevalence of important sensitizers in personal care products marketed for babies and children. A secondary objective of this study was to determine whether a product's cost correlates with content of sensitizing ingredients. METHODS: The ingredient lists of 533 unique personal care products were analyzed for presence of fragrance, betaines, propylene glycol, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, formaldehyde, lanolin, and neomycin. Price per ounce was determined for each product as well. CONCLUSIONS: Most personal care products for babies and children contain 1 or more sensitizers. Products containing more sensitizers tend to cost less than those without any sensitizing ingredients.

From fundamental science to product: a bottom-up approach to sunscreen development.

Despite the pivotal role of ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sustaining life on Earth, overexposure to this type of radiation can have catastrophic effects, such as skin cancer. Sunscreens, the most common form of artificial protection against such harmful effects, absorb UV radiation before it reaches vulnerable skin cells. Absorption of UV radiation prompts ultrafast molecular events in sunscreen molecules which, ideally, would allow for fast and safe dissipation of the excess energy. However, our knowledge of these mechanisms remains limited. In this article, we will review recent advances in the field of ultrafast photodynamics (light induced molecular processes occurring within femtoseconds, fs, 10-15 s to picoseconds, ps, 10-12 s) of sunscreens. We follow a bottom-up approach to common sunscreen active ingredients, analysing any emerging trends from the current literature on the subject. Moreover, we will identify the main questions that remain unanswered, pinpoint some of the main challenges and finally comment on the outlook of this exciting field of research.

Sunscreen Product Performance and Other Determinants of Consumer Preferences.

IMPORTANCE: Sunscreen use is a modifiable behavior that can help reduce the risk for skin cancer, prevent sunburns, mitigate photoaging, and treat photosensitive dermatoses. A better understanding of consumer sunscreen preferences would inform dermatologists in their own recommendations. OBJECTIVE: To determine the characteristics and the most commonly cited positive and negative features of highly rated sunscreens described by consumers. DESIGN, SETTING, AND PARTICIPANTS: The top 1 percentile of sunscreen products on Amazon.com as of December 2015 was selected according to average consumer review (≥4 stars) and the highest number of consumer reviews. Descriptive data for each product were collected from the product page and manufacturer claims. The top 5 "most helpful" reviews (positive and critical) were analyzed and coded by a consensus qualitative coding scheme, which included positive and negative descriptors in 6 major categories according to consumer comments: affordability, cosmetic elegance, separate ratings, product ingredients, product performance, and skin compatibility. MAIN OUTCOMES AND MEASURES: The Kruskal-Wallis test was performed to determine whether characteristics of each product (eg, American Academy of Dermatology [AAD] criteria, sun protection factor [SPF], or vehicle) could be used to predict price per ounce. The number (percentage) of comments categorized by major themes and subthemes was determined. Illustrative consumer comments were also collected. RESULTS: There were 6500 products categorized as sunscreens in the Amazon.com, online catalog. Of the 65 products evaluated, the median price per ounce was $3.32 (range, $0.68-$23.47). Of products, 40% (26 of 65) did not adhere to AAD guidelines (broad spectrum, SPF ≥30, and water resistant) for sunscreens. Vehicles, AAD, and sunscreen type predicted a higher price per ounce. Cosmetic elegance was the most cited positive feature (198 of 325 [61%] comments) followed by product performance (146 of 325 [45%] comments) and skin type compatibility (78 of 325 [24%] comments). CONCLUSIONS AND RELEVANCE: In this cohort of highly rated sunscreen products, a significant proportion did not adhere to AAD guidelines, mostly attributable to a lack of water resistance. The most striking variation in this cohort was price, which varied by more than 3000%. Dermatologists should balance the importance of cosmetic elegance, cost, and AAD guidelines for sun protection in making their recommendations to consumers.

The use of botanical products and vitamins in sunscreens.

The use of botanical products and vitamins in skin care creams and sunscreens is prevalent. Herein we conduct an evaluation of sunscreens to quantitatively assess how often sunscreens incorporate botanically derived products and vitamins. The most commonly used botanicals products and vitamins are identified and stratified based on the sunscreen sun protection factor (SPF). The overall prevalence for the use of botanical agents and vitamins was 62% and 79%, respectively. Aloe vera and licorice root extracts were the most common botanical agents used in sunscreens. Retinyl palmitate was the most common vitamin derivative utilized in sunscreens. The prices of sunscreens significantly increased when more than one botanical product was added. Botanical products and vitamins are widely utilized in sunscreens and more research is needed to assess how their inclusion may enhance or alter the function of sunscreens.

Skin lightening practices: an epidemiological study of South African women of African and Indian ancestries.

BACKGROUND: Cutaneous adverse sequelae of skin lightening creams present with myriad skin complications and affect dermatology practice, particularly in sub-Saharan Africa where such products are widely used, with a prevalence of 25-67%. OBJECTIVES: To examine the skin lightening practices of both African and Indian women living in South Africa. METHODS: A cross-sectional survey was undertaken in the general outpatient departments of two regional university hospitals in Durban, South Africa. All consenting African and Indian women aged 18-70 years were recruited and asked to complete a questionnaire. RESULTS: Six hundred women completed the questionnaire, of whom 32·7% reported using skin lightening products. The main reasons cited were treatment of skin problems (66·7%) and skin lightening (33·3%). Products were purchased from a variety of sources. Twenty-five percent reported using sunscreen. CONCLUSIONS: The use of skin lightening cosmetics is common among darkly pigmented South African women, including those of both African and Indian ancestries. Despite more than 20 years of governmental regulations aimed at prohibiting both the sale of cosmetics containing mercury, hydroquinone and corticosteroids, and the advertising of any kind of skin lightener, they are far from having disappeared. The main motivations for using these products are the desire to treat skin disorders and to achieve a lighter skin colour. Television and magazine advertisements seem to influence women's choice of these products and, thus, would be efficient channels for raising public awareness about the dangers of using uncontrolled skin lighteners.

The economic burden of sunscreen usage.

Excessive sun exposure is known to be the leading cause of skin cancer. The direct cellular damage inflicted by the ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun results in premature aging, DNA damage, and mutations that ultimately lead to skin cancer. Sunscreens are highly recommended to protect against UV radiation. However, little research has been conducted on the economic burden of sunscreen use. In this study, we aimed to evaluate the annual cost of sunscreen under both ideal and actual use conditions while stratifying for the sun protection factor (SPF) and by the name brand or equivalent store brand sunscreen. Pricing data was collected for sunscreens of SPF 30, 50, 70, and 100. For each type of sunscreen, the size and price of the container were recorded. Our results demonstrated that sunscreen prices increased with SPF but purchasing a generic sunscreen resulted in savings of 40%-50%. Our estimates reveal that sunscreens are affordable with annual expenditures ranging from $30.21 to $61.94, depending on brand, for SPF 50 sunscreens used with minimal application density for the average person.

Are sunscreens luxury products?

BACKGROUND: The incidence of skin cancers is rapidly increasing in Western countries. One of the main sun-protection measures advocated is application of sunscreen. Some studies report a failure to comply with sunscreen application guidance. One explanation is their cost. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the true cost of sunscreen in two situations: a 4-member family spending 1 week at the beach and a transplant patient respecting all the sun protection recommendations. METHODS: We performed an analysis of prices of sunscreens sold via Internet drugstores in Europe and North America. Standard sunscreen application recommendations were followed. We tested the recommended amount of sunscreen to be applied (ie, 2 mg/cm(2)). RESULTS: Six hundred seven sunscreens from 17 drugstores in 7 countries were evaluated. Median price of sunscreen was $1.7 US per 10 grams. The price decreased with the size of the bottle. The median price for a family varied from $178.2 per week to $238.4 per week. The price decreased by 33% if the family wore UV-protective T-shirts and by 41% if large-volume bottles were used. The median price for a transplant patient varied from $245.3 per year to $292.3 per year. LIMITATIONS: Anti-UVA activity and topical properties were not evaluated. We tested the recommended amount (2 mg/cm(2)) rather than the amount actually used (1 mg/cm(2)). CONCLUSION: Under acute sun exposure conditions (a week at the beach), the cost of sun protection appears acceptable if sun protective clothing is worn and large-format bottles and low-cost sunscreens are used. Conversely, in a sun-sensitive population requiring year-round protection, the annual budget is relatively high and patients may require financial assistance to be compliant with sun protection guidelines.