Duo photoprotective effect via silica-coated zinc oxide nanoparticles and Vitamin C nanovesicles composites.

OBJECTIVE: Zinc Oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) are used widely in nowadays personal care products, especially sunscreens, as a protector against UV irradiation. Yet, they have some reports of potential toxicity. Silica is widely used to cage ZnO NPs to reduce their potential toxicity. Vitamin C derivative, Magnesium Ascorpyl Phosphate (MAP), is a potent antioxidant that can efficiently protect human skin from harmful impacts of UV irradiation and oxidative stress. The combination of silica coated ZnO NPs and MAP nanovesicles could have potential synergistic protective effect against skin photodamage. METHODS: Silica coated ZnO NPs and MAP nanovesicles (ethosomes and niosomes) were synthesized, formulated, and evaluated as topical gels. These gel formulations were evaluated in mice for their photoprotective effect against UV irradiation through histopathology and immuno-histochemistry study. Split-face clinical study was conducted to compare the effect of application of silica coated ZnO NPs either alone or combined with MAP nanovesicles. Their photoprotective action was evaluated, using Antera 3D® camera, for melanin level, roughness index and wrinkles depth. RESULTS: Silica coated ZnO NPs when combined with MAP nanovesicles protected mice skin from UV irradiation and decreased the expression of the proinflammatory cytokines, NF-κB. Clinically, silica coated ZnO NPs, alone or combined with MAP nanovesicles, could have significant effect to decrease melanin level, roughness index and wrinkles depth with higher effect for the combination. CONCLUSION: A composite of silica coated ZnO NPs and MAP nanovesicles could be a promising cosmetic formulation for skin protection against photodamage signs such as hyperpigmentation, roughness, and wrinkles.

Optimization of an Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction Technique and the Effectiveness of the Sunscreen Components Isolated from Bletilla striata.

Bletilla striata is the dried tuber of B. striata (Thund.) Reichb.f., which has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor, antioxidant and wound healing effects. Traditionally, it has been used for hemostasis therapy, as well as to treat sores, swelling and chapped skin. In this study, we used the ultraviolet (UV) absorbance rate of B. striata extracts as the index, and the extraction was varied with respect to the solid-liquid ratio, ethanol concentration, ultrasonic time and temperature in order to optimize the extraction process for its sunscreen components. The main compounds in the sunscreen ingredients of Baiji (B. striata) were analyzed using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography combined with quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry. The sunscreen properties were subsequently evaluated in vitro using the 3M tape method. The results show that the optimal extraction conditions for the sunscreen components of B. striata were a solid-liquid ratio of 1:40 (g/mL), an ethanol concentration of 50%, an ultrasonic time of 50 min and a temperature of 60 °C. A power of 100 W and an ultrasonic frequency of 40 Hz were used throughout the experiments. Under these optimized conditions, the UV absorption rate of the isolated sunscreen components in the UVB region reached 84.38%, and the RSD was 0.11%. Eighteen compounds were identified, including eleven 2-isobutyl malic acid glucose oxybenzyl esters, four phenanthrenes, two bibenzyl and one α-isobutylmalic acid. An evaluation of the sunscreen properties showed that the average UVB absorption values for the sunscreen samples from different batches of B. striata ranged from 0.727 to 1.201. The sunscreen ingredients of the extracts from B. striata had a good UV absorption capacity in the UVB area, and they were effective in their sunscreen effects under medium-intensity sunlight. Therefore, this study will be an experimental reference for the extraction of sunscreen ingredients from the B. striata plant, and it provides evidence for the future development of B. striata as a candidate cosmetic raw material with UVB protection properties.

Cosmetic Products with Potential Photoprotective Effects Based on Natural Compounds Extracted from Waste of the Winemaking Industry.

Grape marc is a by-product resulting from the winemaking industry that still contains beneficial compounds that can be valorized. Thus, we report here the possibility of using polyphenolic extracts of grape marc origin to obtain sun protection creams. The extractions were performed in ethanol and acetone solutions using pomace from different grape varieties (Merlot, Bläufrankisch, Feteasca Neagra, Isabella) as a raw material. The obtained extracts were analyzed in order to determine the total phenolic content, the antioxidant activity, and the sun protection factor (SPF) via Mansur spectrophotometric assay. The best results were achieved using 70% ethanol in water as a solvent. The extracts with the highest potential photoprotective effects are from the Merlot variety (SPFspectrophotometric = 7.83 ± 0.76). The sunscreens were prepared using the 70% ethanolic extract of the Merlot variety evaporated to dryness, redissolved in either distilled water or ethanol. The SPF estimated in vitro via the COLIPA method showed values of 14.07 ± 1.50 and 11.46 ± 1.32 for the aqueous and ethanolic extracts, respectively, when working with a cream to polyphenolic extract a ratio of 1/1 (w/w). At the same time, the use of aqueous polyphenolic extracts ensures the better stability of creams compared with the ethanolic ones.

Polyphosphazene Microparticles with High Free Radical Scavenging Activity for Skin Photoprotection.

Ultraviolet (UV) filters are the core ingredients in sunscreens and protect against UV-induced skin damage. Nevertheless, their safety and effectiveness have been questioned in terms of their poor photostability, skin penetration, and UV-induced generation of deleterious reactive oxygen species (ROS). Herein, an organic UV filter self-framed microparticle sunblock was exploited, in which quercetin (QC) and hexachlorocyclotriphosphazene (HCCP) were self-constructed into microparticles (HCCP-QC MPs) by facile precipitation polymerization without any carriers. HCCP-QC MPs could not only significantly extend the UV shielding range to the whole UV region but also remarkably reduce UV-induced ROS while avoiding direct skin contact and the resulting epidermal penetration of small-molecule QC. Meanwhile, HCCP-QC MPs possess a high QC-loading ability (697 mg g-1) by QC itself as the microparticles' building blocks. In addition, there is no leakage issue with small molecules due to its covalently cross-linked structure. In vitro and vivo experiments also demonstrated that the HCCP-QC MPs have excellent UV protection properties and effective ROS scavenging ability without toxicity. In summary, effective UV-shielding and ROS scavenging ability coupled with excellent biocompatibility and nonpenetration of small molecules make it a broad prospect in skin protection.

Decoding the photoprotection strategies and manipulating cyanobacterial photoprotective metabolites, mycosporine-like amino acids, for next-generation sunscreens.

The most recent evaluation of the impacts of UV-B radiation and depletion of stratospheric ozone points out the need for effective photoprotection strategies for both biological and nonbiological components. To mitigate the disruptive consequences of artificial sunscreens, photoprotective compounds synthesized from gram-negative, oxygenic, and photoautotrophic prokaryote, cyanobacteria have been studied. In a quest to counteract the harmful UV radiation, cyanobacterial species biosynthesize photoprotective metabolites named as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). The investigation of MAAs as potential substitutes for commercial sunscreen compounds is motivated by their inherent characteristics, such as antioxidative properties, water solubility, low molecular weight, and high molar extinction coefficients. These attributes contribute to the stability of MAAs and make them promising candidates for natural alternatives in sunscreen formulations. They are effective at reducing direct damage caused by UV radiation and do not lead to the production of reactive oxygen radicals. In order to better understand the role, ecology, and its application at a commercial scale, tools like genome mining, heterologous expression, and synthetic biology have been explored in this review to develop next-generation sunscreens. Utilizing tactical concepts of bio-nanoconjugate formation for the development of an efficient MAA-nanoparticle conjugate structure would not only give the sunscreen complex stability but would also serve as a promising tool for the production of analogues. This review would provide insight on efforts to produce MAAs by diversifying the biosynthetic pathways, modulating the precursors and stress conditions, and comprehending the gene cluster arrangement for MAA biosynthesis and its application in developing effective sunscreen.

Ultraviolet Protection From a Patented Amino Acid Complex Technology.

OBJECTIVE:   This study aimed to investigate the ultraviolet (UV) protection/repair benefits of a patented Amino Acid Complex (AAComplex). METHODS: I) AAComplex was incubated with dermal fibroblasts, with/without UVA, and collagen I was measured with a GlasBoxPlus device. II) A lotion, with/without AAComplex (1%) was applied topically to skin explants, following UVA irradiation, and quantified for health-related biomarkers (TNFalpha, histamine, and MMP-1). III) A broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 46 and a skincare serum containing AAComplex (2%) were assessed using epidermal equivalents, in the presence of UV irradiation, for effects on IL-1alpha, thymine dimers, Ki-67, filaggrin and Nrf2. RESULTS: I) Collagen I synthesis in dermal fibroblasts was significantly decreased after UVA compared to without UV. The presence of AAComplex prevented this decrease. II) UVA irradiation of skin explants increased histamine, TNFα, and MMP-1. Hydrocortisone aceponate cream significantly decreases all 3 biomarkers. AAComplex contained lotion also significantly decreased all 3 biomarkers, the no AAComplex control lotion only reduced histamine. III) With the regimen of sunscreen + AAComplex contained skincare serum, the significant reduction in IL-1alpha was observed along with a complete recovery of Ki-67 and stimulation of filaggrin and Nrf2T. No thymine dimer positive cell was observed indicating the most positive skin impact from the regiment.  Conclusion: This research using different human skin models demonstrated that AAComplex can provide protection and damage repair caused by UV, at the ingredient level also when formulated in a serum or lotion formula. Skin may be best protected from UV damage when the regimen is used.   J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(5):366-375. doi:10.36849/JDD.7916.

The use of natural extracts with photoprotective activity: a 2015-2023 patent prospection.

Synthetic sunscreen offers protection against excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun, and protects the skin from possible damage. However, they have low efficacy against the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are highly reactive molecules that can be generated in the skin when it is exposed to UV radiation, and are known to play a role in oxidative stress, which can contribute to skin aging and damage. Thus, there is an ongoing search for sunscreens that do not have these negative effects. One promising source for these is natural products. Therefore, the current patent review summarizes topical formulations made from natural compounds that have antioxidant properties and can be used as photoprotective or anti-aging agents, either using a single natural extract or a combination of extracts. The review reports basic patent information (applicant country, type of applicant, and year of filing) and gives details about the invention, including its chemical composition, and the in vitro and in vivo tests performed. These patents describe natural products that can be used to protect the skin and validate their efficacy, and safety, in addition to standardizing their formulations. The compositions described illustrate the consistent innovation in the use of natural products to protect against UV damage and photoaging disorders, a promising field which is receiving growing global recognition.

Acid-catalyzed phenolation of lignin with tea polyphenol: Enhancing uv resistance and oxidation resistance for potential applications.

The rapid development of the industry has led to the destruction of the earth's ozone layer, resulting in an increasingly serious problem of excessive ultraviolet radiation. Exploring effective measures to address these problems has become a hot topic. Lignin shows promise in the design and preparation of anti-ultraviolet products due to its inherent properties. However, it is important to investigate way to enhance the reactivity of lignin and determine its application form in related products. In this study, phenolic reactions with tea polyphenols were conducted through acid-catalyzed conversion, utilizing organic solvent lignin as the primary material. The phenolic hydroxyl content of the original lignin increased significantly by 218.8 %, resulting in notable improvements in UV resistance and oxidation resistance for phenolic lignin. Additionally, micro-nanocapsule emulsions were formed using phenolic lignin particles as surfactants through ultrasonic cavitation with small-molecule sunscreens. A bio-based sunscreen was prepared with phenolated lignin micro-nanocapsules as the active ingredient, achieving an SPF 100.2 and demonstrating excellent stability. The sunscreen also exhibited strong antioxidant properties and impermeability, ensuring user safety. This research offers a current solution for improving the application of lignin in sunscreens while also broadening the potential uses of plant-based materials in advanced functional products.

Design of Bombyx mori (B. mori) Silk Fibroin Microspheres for Developing Biosafe Sunscreen.

Sunscreens play a crucial role in protecting the skin from ultraviolet (UV) damage. However, present commercial sunscreens have a tendency to generate free radicals in the UV window, resulting in serious inflammatory responses and health problems. In this study, we demonstrate that silk fibroin microspheres (SFMPs) assembled from regenerated silk fibroin (SF) could scavenge free radicals while preventing UV irradiation and thus present a promising sunscreen. The SFMP reflected more UV light than SF and presented a higher stability than that of organic commercial sunscreens. In vitro analysis proved that SFMP could more efficiently scavenge the hydroxy radical and reduce the intracellular reactive oxygen than titanium dioxide (TiO2). In vivo experiments exhibited that SFMP provided stronger skin protection against UV irradiation than commercial sunscreens and TiO2. Furthermore, SFMP treatment significantly inhibited the skin inflammatory response. This work suggests that the SFMP has great potential to be developed into a biosafe sunscreen.

In vitro blastocyst implantation and trophoblast migration are disrupted by the UV filter benzophenone-3 (BP3).

Benzophenone-3 (BP3) is a common ingredient in personal care products (PCPs) due to its well-established effectiveness in absorbing UV radiation. Sunscreen products are among the most widely used PCPs-containing BP3 applied to the skin, resulting in significant human exposure to BP3 primarily through a dermal application. In the present work, we have tested the action of three environmentally relevant concentrations of BP3 (2, 20 and 200 µg/L) on an in vitro model of implantation of murine blastocysts and on migration ability of the human trophoblast cell line Swan 71. We showed that BP3 caused a significant reduction of blastocyst expansion and a delayed hatching in a non-monotonic way. Besides, embryos displayed a delayed attachment in the three BP3 groups, resulting in a smaller implantation area on the 6th day of culture: BP3(2) (0.32 ± 0.07 mm2); BP3(20) (0.30 ± 0.08 mm2) and BP3(200) (0.25 ± 0.06 mm2) in comparison to the control (0.42 ± 0.07 mm2). We also found a reduced migration capacity of the human first-trimester trophoblast cell line Swan 71 in a scratch assay when exposed to BP3: the lowest dose displayed a higher uncovered area (UA) at 6h when compared to the control, whereas a higher UA of the wound was observed for the three BP3 concentrations at 18 and 24 h of exposure. The changes in UA provoked by BP3 restored to normal values in the presence of flutamide, an androgen receptor (AR) inhibitor. These results indicate that a direct impairment on early embryo implantation and a defective migration of extravillous trophoblast cells through the androgen receptor pathway can be postulated as mechanisms of BP3-action on early gestation with potential impact on fetal growth.

UV-filter benzophenones suppress human, pig, rat, and mouse 11ß-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1: Structure-activity relationship and in silico docking analysis.

Benzophenone chemicals (BPs) have been developed to prevent the adverse effects of UV radiation and they are widely contaminated. 11ß-Hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 (11ß-HSD1) catalyze the conversion of inactive glucocorticoid to active glucocorticoid, playing critical role in many physiological function. However, the direct effect of BPs on human, pig, rat, and mouse 11ß-HSD1 remains unclear. In this study, we screened the inhibitory strength of 12 BPs on 4 species, and performed the structure-activity relationship (SAR) and in silico docking analysis. The inhibitory potency of BPs was: for human 11ß-HSD1, BP6 (IC50 = 18.76 µM) > BP8 (40.84 µM) > BP (88.89 µM) > other BPs; for pig 11ß-HSD1, BP8 (45.57 µM) > BP6 (59.44 µM) > BP2 (65.12 µM) > BP (135.56 µM) > other BPs; for rat 11ß-HSD1, BP7 (67.17 µM) > BP (68.83 µM) > BP8 (133.04 µM) > other BPs; and for mouse 11ß-HSD1, BP8 (41.41 µM) > BP (50.61 µM) > other BPs. These BP chemicals were mixed/competitive inhibitors of these 11ß-HSD1 enzymes. The 2,2'-dihydroxy substitutions in two benzene rings play a key role in enhancing the effectiveness of inhibiting 11ß-HSD1, possibly via increasing hydrogen bond interactions. Docking analysis shows that these BPs bind to NADPH/glucocorticoid binding sites and forms hydrogen bonds with catalytic residues Ser and/or Tyr. In conclusion, this study demonstrates that BP chemicals can inhibit 11ß-HSD1 from 4 species, and there are subtle species-dependent difference in the inhibitory strength and structural variations of BPs.

In vitro Evaluation Method of UV Protecting Ability of Sunscreens: Clarifying and Overcoming Problems to Develop New Method.

Factors influencing on in vitro evaluation of UV protecting ability of sunscreens were analyzed. It was found that any factors making the sunscreen layer spatially inhomogeneous, such as directional viscous fingering during the sunscreen application, dewetting of applied sunscreen layer, and the surface roughness of the standard PMMA plate, alter the UV transmittance. New application procedure and new type of flat hydrophilic plate were developed for inhibiting the generation of spatial inhomogeneity in applied sunscreen layer. The method created by the combination of these newly developed technologies succeeded in providing reliable and reproducible in vitro evaluation of UV protecting ability.

Skin Protection by Carotenoid Pigments.

Sunlight, despite its benefits, can pose a threat to the skin, which is a natural protective barrier. Phototoxicity caused by overexposure, especially to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), results in burns, accelerates photoaging, and causes skin cancer formation. Natural substances of plant origin, i.e., polyphenols, flavonoids, and photosynthetic pigments, can protect the skin against the effects of radiation, acting not only as photoprotectors like natural filters but as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory remedies, alleviating the effects of photodamage to the skin. Plant-based formulations are gaining popularity as an attractive alternative to synthetic filters. Over the past 20 years, a large number of studies have been published to assess the photoprotective effects of natural plant products, primarily through their antioxidant, antimutagenic, and anti-immunosuppressive activities. This review selects the most important data on skin photodamage and photoprotective efficacy of selected plant carotenoid representatives from in vivo studies on animal models and humans, as well as in vitro experiments performed on fibroblast and keratinocyte cell lines. Recent research on carotenoids associated with lipid nanoparticles, nanoemulsions, liposomes, and micelles is reviewed. The focus was on collecting those nanomaterials that serve to improve the bioavailability and stability of carotenoids as natural antioxidants with photoprotective activity.

Effect of Ag and Ni-Doped Cerium Oxide Nanoparticles on the Formation of ROS and Evaluation as an Alternative Physical Sunscreen Material.

CeO2 nanoparticles (nanoceria) were proposed as an alternative physical sunscreen agent with antioxidant properties and comparable UV absorption performance. Green synthesis of nanoceria with Ag and Ni dopants resulted in doped nanoceria with lower catalytic activity and biologically-safe characteristics. The doped nanoceria was characterized using X-ray diffraction (XRD), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), Rancimat Instrument, and UV-Vis Spectrophotometer for SPF (Sun Protection Factor) determination. XRD and TEM analysis showed that nanoceria had been successfully formed in nanoscale-sized with a change in crystallite size due to the crystal defect phenomenon caused by dopant addition. While the Rancimat test and band gap energy analysis were conducted to evaluate the oxidative stability and reactive oxygen species formation, it was confirmed that dopant addition could decrease catalytic activity of material, resulting in Ni-doped Ce with a longer incubation time (11.81 h) than Ag-doped Ce (10.58 h) and non-doped Ce (10.30 h). In-vitro SPF value was measured using the thin layer technique of sunscreen prototype with Virgin Coconut Oil (VCO)-based emulsion, which yielded 10.862 and 5.728 SPF values for 10% Ag-doped Ce and 10% Ni-doped Ce, respectively. The dopant addition of nanoceria could reduce catalytic activity and give a decent in vitro UV-shielding performance test; thus, Ag and Ni-doped nanoceria could be seen as promising candidates for alternative physical sunscreen agents.

A narrative review of the impact of ultraviolet radiation and sunscreen on the skin microbiome.

BACKGROUND: The human skin microbiome is a dynamic ecosystem that plays an important role in skin health. The skin microbiome has been implicated in numerous diseases, and our knowledge surrounding it continues to evolve. A better understanding of the interactions between the environment and the skin microbiome will lead to improvements in skin health. METHODS: This article reviews the published literature surrounding the impact of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and sunscreen on the skin microbiome. RESULTS: Skin microbes are differentially impacted by UVR, and alterations in the microbiome can be detected following UVR exposure. These changes are related to direct bactericidal effects, alterations in the cutaneous metabolome, and changes in the cutaneous immune system. UV filters used in sunscreen have been shown to have bactericidal effects, and many compounds used in sunscreen emulsions can also negatively impact cutaneous microbes. CONCLUSION: A healthy microbiome has been shown to produce compounds that help protect the skin from UVR, and sunscreen has the potential to reduce the diversity of the skin microbiome. This indicates that designing sunscreen products that both provide protection against UVR and preserve the skin microbiome may offer additional benefits to skin health when compared with traditional sunscreen products.

Positive and ecobiological contribution in skin photoprotection of ectoine and mannitol combined in vivo with UV filters.

BACKGROUND: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes immunosuppression, photoaging, and carcinogenesis by induction of a cascade of skin damages. Sunscreens currently on the market are not absorbing UV rays uniformly throughout the full UV range, high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreens absorb most of UVB rays but are less effective in absorbing the UVA part of the spectrum. In the context, one approach could consist of preserving the skin natural resources and mechanisms, which is the foundation of the ecobiological approach, by combing UV filters and antioxidants to enhance their photoprotective effect. METHODS: First, the photoprotection properties of ectoine and mannitol association were characterized by the quantification of glutathione, reactive oxygen species, and double-stranded DNA breaks and by the epidermal Langerhans cells functionality. Second, the protection of squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and trans-urocanic acid (UCA) by the ectoine and mannitol association combined or not with SPF30 UV filters was assessed in vivo via non-invasive skin samplings in 10 subjects on irradiated areas. RESULTS: Using in vitro irradiated skin cell models, we demonstrated that this association significantly preserved intracellular glutathione levels, reduced DNA strand breaks induced by oxidative stress, and maintained Langerhans cell functionality. In vivo this association combined with UV filters presented significantly higher protection of three natural defense systems altered by UV compared to UV filters alone: squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and preservation of trans-UCA. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the ecobiological potential of combining UV filters with biological protection to increase skin photoprotection provided by specific active ingredients with antioxidative and immunosuppressive properties.

The impact of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) UVA1 filter on pigmentary and ageing signs: An outdoor prospective 8-week randomized, intra-individual comparative study in two populations of different genetic background.

BACKGROUND: Of all ultraviolet (UV) radiations reaching the earth, UVA1 rays have a higher potential of penetrating and producing clinically harmful consequences. While UV radiations up to 370 nm are well-blocked by current sunscreens, a photoprotection gap remains for the UVA1 wavelengths between 370 and 400 nm. OBJECTIVE: This study was to assess under outdoor summer conditions the impact on pigmentation and skin ageing signs of a protection against UVA1 using methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) filter added to a reference SPF50 sunscreen, in comparison with the same sunscreen without the MCE filter. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This prospective randomized comparative intra-individual study was conducted in 113 women in Brazil and China. Subjects had their face and two forearms exposed twice-daily to a 1-h outdoor sunlight exposure over 8 weeks. Before exposure, the SPF50 sunscreen containing 3% MCE was applied on one half-face and one forearm and the same reference product without MCE on the other half-face and forearm. Primary study endpoint was skin colour changes (chromametry). Other endpoints included expert panel grading of pigmentation and facial skin ageing, and naïve panel assessment of facial skin radiance and homogeneity. RESULTS: After 8 weeks, the skin was darker on both forearms but the increase in sun-induced pigmentation was smaller with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen. Expert panel evaluations showed no change in severity scores for pigmentation and a decreased severity scores for facial skin ageing in areas protected with the SPF50/MCE product: severity scores in areas protected with the SPF50 alone were either increased (pigmentation) or unchanged (skin ageing). Naïve panel evaluations of skin radiance and homogeneity showed statistically significant superiority of the SPF50/MCE product. CONCLUSION: Overall, this study demonstrates that a protection with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen significantly reduces pigmentation and ageing signs compared to the same SPF50 sunscreen.

Evaluation of the protection of sunscreen products against long wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light-induced biological effects.

BACKGROUND: Long wavelength ultraviolet-A1 in combination with visible light induces hyperpigmentation, particularly in dark-skin phototypes. This study evaluated the efficacy of four sunscreen formulations in protecting against VL + UVA1 (370-700 nm). METHODS: The test products (A-D) were applied to the back of 12 volunteers, then irradiated with 320 J/cm2 VL + UVA1 (3.5% UVA1 [370-400 nm]). Immediately after irradiation, and at Days 1, 7, and 14, erythema and pigmentation were assessed by investigator global assessment (IGA), colorimetry (Δa* and ΔITA) and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS)-measured relative dyschromia (area under the curve AUC). Control areas were irradiated without sunscreen. RESULTS: Product D, containing titanium dioxide 11%, iron oxides 1%, and antioxidants, provided the highest and most consistent protection. Compared with unprotected irradiated control, it had statistically significantly less erythema on IGA, DRS (Δoxyhemoglobin), and colorimetry (Δa*) at Day 0; less pigmentation on IGA at all time points, on DRS (relative dyschromia) at Days 7 and 14, and on colorimetry (ΔITA) at Day 0. Product B, containing zinc oxide 12% plus organic UV filters, iron oxides 4%, and antioxidants, also showed some efficacy. CONCLUSION: Of the sunscreens tested, the tinted products provided better protection against VL + UVA1 than the non-tinted products. Since the product with 1% iron oxides was superior to the product with 4% iron oxides, further studies are needed to evaluate whether iron oxide content correlates with better protection.

Hyaluronic acid/polyphenol sunscreens with broad-spectrum UV protection properties from tannic acid and quercetin.

Currently, commercial sunscreens cause a number of biotoxicity and environmental issues, making it imperative to develop biocompatible alternatives. In this study, we aimed to develop an alternative sunscreen from two ecofriendly and biocompatible natural polyphenolic compounds, tannic acid (TA) and quercetin (Que). The sunscreen was prepared through a simple process using an oil-in-water emulsion as the medium and hyaluronic acid (HA) as the base polymer to improve biocompatibility. The HA/TA/Que. sunscreen prepared in this study exhibits 0 % transmittance in the UVB region and <15 % transmittance in the UVA region, resulting in excellent sun-protection properties (SPF 30). Remarkably, the as-prepared HA/TA/Que. sunscreen has a suitable viscosity and similar UV protection properties to those of commercial sunscreens. The HA/TA/Que. sunscreen also exhibits 90.4 % antioxidant activity against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl, demonstrating an ability to effectively capture reactive oxygen species that directly affect the skin. In addition, the cell viability was >90 % at a concentration of 50 µg/mL after 7 days, indicating excellent cytocompatibility. Owing to its various advantageous features, the HA/TA/Que. sunscreen with excellent sun protection properties and multiple functionalities is expected to resolve many environmental and biological issues caused by commercial sunscreens.

Multi-omics approach to understand the impact of sun exposure on an in vitro skin ecosystem and evaluate a new broad-spectrum sunscreen.

A reconstructed human epidermal model (RHE) colonized with human microbiota and sebum was developed to reproduce the complexity of the skin ecosystem in vitro. The RHE model was exposed to simulated solar radiation (SSR) with or without SPF50+ sunscreen (with UVB, UVA, long-UVA, and visible light protection). Structural identification of discriminant metabolites was acquired by nuclear magnetic resonance and metabolomic fingerprints were identified using reverse phase-ultra high-performance liquid chromatography-high resolution mass spectrometry, followed by pathway enrichment analysis. Over 50 metabolites were significantly altered by SSR (p < 0.05, log2 values), showing high skin oxidative stress (glutathione and purine pathways, urea cycle) and altered skin microbiota (branched-chain amino acid cycle and tryptophan pathway). 16S and internal transcribed spacer rRNA sequencing showed the relative abundance of various bacteria and fungi altered by SSR. This study identified highly accurate metabolomic fingerprints and metagenomic modifications of sun-exposed skin to help elucidate the interactions between the skin and its microbiota. Application of SPF50+ sunscreen protected the skin ecosystem model from the deleterious effects of SSR and preserved the physiological interactions within the skin ecosystem. These innovative technologies could thus be used to evaluate the effectiveness of sunscreen.