RESUMO
Passiflora cincinnata is a Passifloraceae typical of the Caatinga, a biome unique to Brazil. It has various pharmacological properties associated with its high flavonoid content. Vitexin, isovitexin, orientin, isoorientin and derivatives are the main chemical and pharmacological markers for this plant. Although flavonoids enriched-extracts have been widely applied in phytocosmetics, especially in sunscreen formulations, the use of P. cincinnata as a photoprotective ingredient remains unexplored. Different hydro-alcoholic extracts were prepared and their antioxidant and photoprotective activities were evaluated by inâ vitro assays. The most promising extract (Pc-1) was analyzed by HPLC-DAD-ESI-MS/MS. Nine flavonoids were identified as major compounds: isovitexin-7-O-glucoside, isoorientin-2"O-hexoside, orientin, isoorientin, isovitexin-2"-O-glucoside, isovitexin-6"-O-glucoside, isoscoparin and isoquercitrin. Finally, Pc-1 (5 and 10 %, v/v) was incorporated into gel formulations, alone or combined to commercial chemical filters (benzophenone-3 and octyl methoxycinnamate). Formulations containing Pc-1 showed high SPFspectrophotometric values. When combined to commercial filters, Pc-1 (5 %) potentiated their photoprotective efficacy (p<0.05). A physicochemical characterization indicated no incompatibility or signs of instability after extract incorporation. Altogether, these findings encourage the use of Pc-1 as a photoprotective ingredient or co-adjuvant in sunscreens formulations.
RESUMO
The use of sunscreen is one of the photoprotection measures most used by the population, so these products must offer broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB radiation. Encholirium spectabile, popularly known as "macambira-de-flecha," is a species characterized by its rocky outcrops and found in the Caatinga. This biome is known for extreme droughts and dry periods, and for this reason, its vegetation needed to develop resistance mechanisms. The aim of this work was to evaluate the use of E. spectabile incorporated in O/W emulsion as a potential photoprotective agent and their antioxidant activity. Four chemical constituents (ferulic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid and apigenin) were identified by HPLC-DAD analysis, and emulsions containing different concentrations (1%, 2.5% and 5%) of the extract without and with the addition of chemical filters (octyl methoxycinnamate and benzophenone-3) were prepared and submitted to the test of preliminary stability. The Q formulation demonstrated little variation in the preliminary stability test and was selected for estimated your protection against UVB and determination of in vitro protection factor UVA. The formulations remained stable during the freeze-thaw cycle; the extract despite maintaining the UVA-PF and decreasing the wavelength showed an increase in FPS from 14.4 (control) to 18.8 (control+ Es-HA80).
