Comparison of the measuring efficacy of transepidermal water loss of a reasonably priced, portable closed-chamber system device H4500 with that of rather expensive, conventional devices such as Tewameter® and Vapometer®.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Although measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is important to assess the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC), the commercially available instruments are rather expensive. Recently launched Model H4500 employs a closed-chamber system to measure TEWL and is more reasonably priced compared to devices currently in general use. METHODS: To check the reproducibility of the obtained data with H4500, we conducted measurements on the volar forearms of healthy volunteers and compared these data with those measured with Vapometer® and Tewameter® . Then, we checked the correlations between the TEWL data obtained with these different devices on the same volar forearms of 15 healthy volunteers before and after the artificial production of barrier damage of the SC by tape stripping or by 0.5% aqueous solution of sodium lauryl sulfate. RESULTS: The obtained intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC, [1, 1]) with 95% CI of H4500 was 0.927 (0.835-0.978). Namely, an excellent correlation could be found in the values of TEWL measured with these three different instruments not only on healthy skin but also on the artificially barrier-damaged skin. CONCLUSIONS: H4500 is considered to be practical for daily use because of its performance as well as its reasonable price as compared with conventional devices.

Electrical measurement of the hydration state of the skin surface in vivo.

Healthy skin surface is smooth and soft, because it is covered by the properly hydrated stratum corneum (SC), an extremely thin and soft barrier membrane produced by the underlying normal epidermis. By contrast, the skin surfaces covering pathological lesions exhibit dry and scaly changes and the SC shows poor barrier function. The SC barrier function has been assessed in vivo by instrumentally measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL). However, there was a lack of any appropriate method for evaluating the hydration state of the skin surface in vivo until 1980 when we reported the feasibility of employing high-frequency conductance or capacitance to evaluate it quickly and accurately. With such measurements, we can assess easily the moisturizing efficacy of various topical agents in vivo as well as the distribution pattern of water in the SC by combining it with a serial tape-stripping procedure of the skin surface.

Characterization of facial skin of various Asian populations through visual and non-invasive instrumental evaluations: influence of seasons.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: This multicenter study assessed the impact of two types of extreme seasons (i.e. summer and winter) on the facial skin of female subjects living in different regions of Asia. METHODS: Facial skin of female subjects of various Asian ethnicities was characterized during summer and winter using dermatological assessments of the cheek and instrumental evaluations of the forehead and cheek. Approximately, 100 female subjects each from five cities in Asia (Harbin and Shanghai in China; New Delhi, India; Seoul, South Korea; and Sendai, Japan) ranging in age from 14 to 75 years were included in this study. RESULTS: Dermatologist assessments revealed a general decrease in severity of roughness, wrinkles, pigmentation, and lentigines during winter compared with summer. Instrumental assessments revealed significant differences in various parameters in winter vs. summer such as reductions in melanin index and skin surface hydration, and increases in transepidermal water loss, skin pH, redness, and sebum production. CONCLUSION: Facial skin in female subjects living in different Asian cities exhibited a wide range of changes and worsening of various biophysical parameters in response to the low temperature and humidity during the winter season as compared with summer.

Analysis of the human intestinal microbiota from 92 volunteers after ingestion of identical meals.

The intestinal microbiota composition of 92 volunteers living in Japan was identified following the consumption of 'identical meals' (1,879 kcal/day) for 3 days. When faecal samples were analysed by terminal restriction fragment length polymorphism with several primer-restriction enzyme systems and then clustered, the patterns could be divided into 2 clusters. Contribution tests and partition modelling showed that OTU211 of the 35f-MspI system and OTU237 of the 35f-AluI system were key factors in the distribution of these groups. However, significant differences among these groups in terms of body mass index and age were not observed.

Zinc l-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis.

Reduced collagen matrix in the dermis constitutes one of the characteristic features of chronologically aged skin, which is further enhanced on the sun-exposed portions of the body by chronic ultraviolet light (UV) irradiation, inducing the unique changes associated with skin photoageing. The zinc salt of l-pyrrolidone carboxylate (Zinc PCA) has long been used as a cosmetic ingredient, because of its astringent and anti-microbial properties. In the present study, by employing cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts, we found that Zinc PCA suppressed UVA-induced activation of activator protein-1 (AP-1) and reduced matrix metalloproteinase-1 production in these cells, which is thought to be involved in collagen degradation in photoaged skin. Moreover, Zinc PCA treatment of the cells increased the expression of an ascorbic acid transporter mRNA, SVCT2, but not SVCT1, resulting in the enhanced production of type I collagen. Based on these in vitro findings, we consider Zinc PCA to be a promising candidate for an anti-skin ageing agent.

Functional analyses of the skin surface of the areola mammae: comparison between healthy adult male and female subjects and between healthy individuals and patients with atopic dermatitis.

BACKGROUND: Although the nipple and areola of the breast constitute a unique and prominent area on the chest, so far no study has been done on the functional properties of their skin surfaces. OBJECTIVE: To study the stratum corneum (SC) covering the areola using noninvasive methods. METHODS: Eighteen adult healthy subjects comprising nine men and nine women and 18 age- and sex-matched patients with atopic dermatitis (AD), none of whom had visible skin lesions, participated in the study. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface hydration and skin surface lipid levels were measured on the areola and adjacent breast skin. The size of the skin surface corneocytes of these skin regions was assessed. RESULTS: All the healthy subjects showed significantly higher TEWL accompanied by smaller sized corneocytes on the areola than on the adjacent breast skin. Only female subjects revealed a significantly higher skin surface hydration state together with significantly increased skin surface lipid levels on the areola than on the adjacent breast skin. These sex differences were observed even in patients with AD. Comparison between healthy individuals and the patients with AD demonstrated higher TEWL, decreased skin surface hydration state and lower skin surface lipid levels associated with smaller sized corneocytes in the areola in the patients with AD, especially in male patients. CONCLUSIONS: In adults, the SC barrier function and SC water-binding capacity of the areola were functionally poorer than in the adjacent skin, being covered by smaller sized corneocytes and lower amounts of skin surface lipids, especially in men and in patients with AD.

A safety assessment of branched chain saturated alcohols when used as fragrance ingredients.

The Branched Chain Saturated Alcohol (BCSA) group of fragrance ingredients was evaluated for safety. In humans, no evidence of skin irritation was found at concentrations of 2-10%. Undiluted, 11 materials evaluated caused moderate to severe eye irritation. As current end product use levels are between 0.001% and 1.7%, eye irritation is not a concern. The materials have no or low sensitizing potential. For individuals who are already sensitized, an elicitation reaction is possible. Due to lack of UVA/UVB light-absorbing structures, and review of phototoxic/photoallergy data, the BCSA are not expected to elicit phototoxicity or photoallergy. The 15 materials tested have a low order of acute toxicity. Following repeated application, seven BCSA tested were of low systemic toxicity. Studies performed on eight BCSA and three metabolites show no in vivo or in vitro genotoxicity. A valid carcinogenicity study showed that 2-ethyl-1-hexanol is a weak inducer of liver tumors in female mice, however, the relevance of this effect and mode of action to humans is still a matter of debate. The Panel is of the opinion that there are no safety concerns regarding BCSA under the present levels of use and exposure.

Pseudolymphomatous angiokeratoma: report of three cases and an immunohistological study.

BACKGROUND: Pseudolymphomatous angiokeratoma (PA), originally termed 'acral pseudolymphomatous angiokeratoma of children', is a disorder characterized clinically by development of red nodules on the extremities and histologically by a subepidermal dense lymphocyte infiltrate. METHODS: We report three cases of PA, with characteristically dense, nodular infiltrate composed predominantly of small lymphocytes, and thick-walled vessels. RESULTS: Immunohistochemical investigation revealed a dense accumulation of CD20+ cells with CD3+ cells in one case. Infiltrate in the other two cases was mainly composed of CD3+ cells and a mixture of CD4+ and CD8+ cells, with a few cells expressing CD20. CONCLUSION: Our immunohistological results reveal a wide spectrum of cellular infiltrate compositions ranging from T-cell to B-cell predominance.

Location-related differences in structure and function of the stratum corneum with special emphasis on those of the facial skin.

Between the two different kinds of the skin covering the body, the glabrous skin is found only on the palmo-plantar surface because of its rather simple function to protect the underlying living tissue with its remarkably thick stratum corneum (SC) from strong external force and friction. Thus, its barrier function is extremely poor. In contrast, the hair-bearing skin covers almost all over the body surface regardless of the presence of long hair or vellus hair. In regard to its SC, many dermatologists and skin scientists think that it is too thin to show any site-specific differences, because the SC is just present as an efficient barrier membrane to protect our body from desiccation as well as against the invasion by external injurious agents. However, there are remarkable regional differences not only in the living skin tissue but also even in such thin SC reflecting the function of each anatomical location. These differences in the SC have been mostly disclosed with the advent of non-invasive biophysical instruments, particularly the one that enables us to measure transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the parameter of the SC barrier function, and the one that evaluates the hydration state of the skin surface, the parameter of the water-holding capacity of the SC that brings about softness and smoothness to the skin surface. These in vivo instrumental measurements of the SC have disclosed the presence of remarkable differences in the functional properties of the SC particularly between the face and other portions of the body. The SC of the facial skin is thinner, being composed of smaller layers of corneocytes than that of the trunk and limbs. It shows unique functional characteristics to provide hydrated skin surface but relatively poor barrier function, which is similar to that observed in retinoid-treated skin or to that of fresh scar or keloidal scars. Moreover, there even exist unexpected, site-dependent differences in the SC of the facial skin such as the forehead, eyelid, cheek, nose and perioral regions, although each location occupies only a small area. Between these locations, the cheek shows the lowest TEWL in contrast to the perioral region that reveals the highest one. Moreover, these features are not static but change with age particularly between children and adults and maybe also between genders. Among various facial locations, the eyelid skin is distinct from others because its SC is associated with poor skin surface lipids and a thin SC cell layer composed of large corneocytes that brings about high surface hydration state but poor barrier function, whereas the vermillion borders of the lips that are covered by an exposed part of the oral mucosa exhibit remarkably poor barrier function and low hydration state. Future studies aiming at the establishment of the functional mapping in each facial region and in other body regions will shed light on more delicate site-dependent differences, which will provide us important information in planning the strategy to start so called tailor-made skin care for each location of the body.

A toxicologic and dermatologic assessment of cyclic acetates when used as fragrance ingredients.

An evaluation and review of a structurally related group of fragrance materials.

Noninvasive biophysical assessments of the efficacy of a moisturizing cosmetic cream base for patients with atopic dermatitis during different seasons.

BACKGROUND: The use of emollients is recommended for patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) to maintain improved condition. OBJECTIVES: To ascertain objectively the effectiveness of a moisturizing cream for patients with AD during different seasons. METHODS: We conducted clinical evaluations, noninvasive biophysical measurements and biochemical analyses of the stratum corneum (SC) components of the volar forearm skin of 23 patients with AD after a moisturizer was applied twice daily for 4 weeks. The moisturizer was formulated according to the consensus of cosmetic scientists belonging to major Japanese cosmetic companies. The nontreated forearm served as a control. RESULTS: After using the moisturizer treatment, the hydration of the SC significantly increased together with a decrease in the desquamation measurements and an improvement in the regularity of skin surface corneocytes. An improvement was observed in the SC barrier function in winter, but was achieved only after 4 weeks in late spring during which time there even occurred exacerbation of skin conditions in three patients. With use of the moisturizer treatment, we found no change in the SC content of free amino acids or ceramides, the ratio of interleukin (IL)-1 receptor antagonist to IL-1alpha, the ratio of immature to mature cornified envelopes, the size of the corneocytes or the emergence of parakeratotic cells in the skin surface corneocytes. CONCLUSION: Treatment with an adequate moisturizer is beneficial for the dry skin of patients with AD during the dry, cold season but it does not influence the impaired SC barrier function as effectively in the less arid season.

p51/p63 Inhibits ultraviolet B-induced apoptosis via Akt activation.

The epidermis must be protected against excess apoptotic cell death in response to ultraviolet-B (UV-B) irradiation. p53 is known to be critical for this protection. Although the p53 family member DeltaNp51B/DeltaNp63alpha (an N terminal-deleted form of p51/p63) is abundantly expressed in keratinocytes, its contribution to UV-B-dependent apoptosis is largely unknown. We found that, after a transient increase, DeltaNp51B is downregulated in UV-B-irradiated keratinocytes undergoing apoptosis, whereas p53 is upregulated with delayed kinetics. Furthermore, the reduction of DeltaNp51B by small interfering RNAs augmented UV-B-dependent apoptosis in keratinocytes, indicating that DeltaNp51B blocks keratinocyte apoptosis. Although the exogenous expression of DeltaNp51B in keratinocytes did not further block the UV-B-dependent apoptosis, to our surprise the expression of TAp51B (an isoform with a full NH(2)-terminal transactivation domain that is structurally and functionally similar to p53) decreased apoptosis significantly. The blockade of keratinocyte apoptosis by the p51 was dependent on the phosphorylation of Akt, resulting in the activation of a survival pathway. Thus, in addition to its indispensable roles in epithelial development, p51 acts in adult cells to protect the epidermis against UV-B irradiation by preventing excess depletion of keratinocytes.

Comparison of the depth profiles of water and water-binding substances in the stratum corneum determined in vivo by Raman spectroscopy between the cheek and volar forearm skin: effects of age, seasonal changes and artificial forced hydration.

BACKGROUND: Dermatologists and cosmetic scientists are becoming increasingly interested in stratum corneum (SC) hydration because the SC plays an important role in keeping the skin surface soft and smooth. However, conventional in vivo noninvasive methods do not provide direct information about the depth profiles of water content or SC components that hold water. OBJECTIVES: To study the depth profiles of water and SC components in vivo by Raman spectroscopy, and to analyse the changes due to age, anatomical location, season and water application. METHODS: In vivo Raman spectra of the skin of the cheek and the volar forearm were obtained from 50 healthy Japanese volunteers of different ages (age range 22-76 years) with a confocal Raman spectrometer. The depth-dependent profiles of water and of SC water-binding components were calculated from the respective Raman spectra. RESULTS: The depth profile of the SC water content was observed in a pattern ranging from around 30% (water/wet tissue) at the outermost layer of the SC to about 70% at the deeper living layer. Although the water content at a depth of 10-30 microm in the forearm skin tended to be lower in older subjects than in younger subjects, no such difference was found in the much thinner SC of the cheek. Moreover, there was no seasonal difference in depth profile of water content from the mid part of the SC to an 80-microm depth from the skin surface both in the cheek and in the forearm. The water content of all the evaluated SC components showed a gradual decrease from the surface to deeper portions. The mean amounts of lactate in the forearm skin and cholesterol in the cheek skin were significantly higher in younger subjects than in older subjects. In contrast, the levels of free amino acids and trans-urocanic acid were higher in the forearm skin of older subjects than in younger subjects. The relative amounts of urea and lactate were the highest in summer, when that of trans-urocanic acid was the lowest. Prolonged water application on the forearm skin even for 90 min resulted in a remarkable increase in water content throughout the SC, even reaching the granular layer, which was only gradually released from the upper part of the SC after discontinuation of the hydration procedure. CONCLUSIONS: Our present findings suggest that changes in the concentration depth profiles of water, free amino acids and lipids in the skin depend on age, anatomical site and season. These findings indicate the important roles played by various water-holding substances in the SC in the regulation of SC water content.

A toxicologic and dermatologic assessment of related esters and alcohols of cinnamic acid and cinnamyl alcohol when used as fragrance ingredients.

An evaluation and review of a structurally related group of fragrance materials.

A toxicologic and dermatologic assessment of ionones when used as fragrance ingredients.

An evaluation and review of a structurally related group of fragrance materials.

A toxicologic and dermatologic assessment of salicylates when used as fragrance ingredients.

An evaluation and review of a structurally related group of fragrance materials.

Gene expression profiling analysis of solar lentigo in relation to immunohistochemical characteristics.

BACKGROUND: Solar lentigo appears as dark brown spots that occur on sun-exposed areas and is considered to be a hallmark of aged skin. Although considerable knowledge about acute pigmentation has recently been accumulated, little is yet known about the mechanisms underlying chronic- and delayed-type hyperpigmentation, such as solar lentigo. OBJECTIVES: To clarify further the mechanisms underlying the development of solar lentigo, we carried out gene expression analysis in skin biopsy specimens obtained from human solar lentigines using DNA microarray analysis. METHODS: Two pairs of skin specimens were obtained from solar lentigo and adjacent sun-exposed normal skin, as well as normal skin on the buttocks of 16 volunteers aged 40-55 years. One set of specimens was frozen and RNA was extracted for microarray and the other set was prepared for histological sections and analysed by antibodies and probes. RESULTS: Sixty-five genes were upregulated more than 1.8-fold in solar lentigo compared with adjacent control skin and seven melanocyte-related genes were included. Compared with sun-protected skin, many inflammation-related genes were upregulated in solar lentigo, and compared with sun-exposed control skin, upregulation of genes related to fatty-acid metabolism was apparent in solar lentigo. Moreover, we found downregulation of cornified envelope-related genes, which suggests suppression of cornification in the epidermis in solar lentigo. Immunohistochemically, larger numbers of TRP1-positive cells were found in the basal layer of solar lentigo than in normal skin. Fatty acid-related genes were highly expressed in the epidermis as detected by in situ hybridization, and they were much more prominent in the lesional skin of solar lentigo. However, cycling epidermal cells detectable with Ki67 antibody were fewer in the lesional skin of solar lentigo. Expression of filaggrin and involucrin was decreased in the lesional skin, where the number of cell layers of the stratum corneum was significantly higher than in normal skin. CONCLUSIONS: The results of the present microarray analysis of solar lentigo, demonstrating upregulation of genes related to inflammation, fatty-acid metabolism and melanocytes and downregulation of cornified envelope-related genes, suggest that solar lentigo is induced by the mutagenic effect of repeated ultraviolet light exposures in the past, leading to the characteristic enhancement of melanin production, together with decreased proliferation and differentiation of lesional keratinocytes on the background of chronic inflammation.