Electron microscopy and tomography reveal that sodium 2-naphthalene sulfonate incorporated into perming solutions swells and tilts trichocyte intermediate filaments causing straightening of curly Japanese human hair.

OBJECTIVE: A new hair-care process has been specifically developed for the straightening of curved Japanese woman's hair . The process included sodium 2-naphthalene sulfonate (SNS) in the reduction and oxidation steps of a conventional perming process. Our objective was to develop an understanding of how this process caused hair straightening by measuring the changes to morphology and ultrastructure between untreated, conventionally permed and SNS permed hair. Untreated and SNS permed Merino wool fibres were used to confirm structural changes. METHODS: Japanese hair samples were measured for single-fibre curvature before and after perming treatments. A silver staining method was developed to stain hair fibres without changing fibre curvature so that transmission electron microscopy could be used to measure changes in the lateral dimensions of all structural components from the cellular to protein filament level. Electron tomography determined intermediate filament slopes and slope changes after SNS perming relative to the central longitudinal axis of the fibre. RESULTS: SNS perming was found to cause greater lateral swelling than conventional perming of: the paracortical cells of wool; the cuticle, the cuticular cell membrane complex and the macrofibrillar centre-to-centre distance of hair; and of the intermediate filaments in wool and hair. In curved hair, SNS perming caused the intermediate filaments of the helical macrofibrils to simultaneously swell and to tilt further, resulting in the slight longitudinal contraction of the macrofibrils. The overall swelling and tilting was greatest in the helical macrofibrils of Type B cortical cells predominately located in the convex fibre half. The presence of a higher percentage of helical macrofibrils in the convex fibre half than in the concave fibre half caused a contraction differential between the two halves leading to straighten of the curved fibre. A mechanical model was proposed to explain how SNS perming straightened curly hair. CONCLUSION: The effects of conventional and SNS perming on the morphological and ultrastructural components of curved Japanese hair and high-curl Merino wool fibres have given clear insights into understanding the mechanism of fibre curvature change.

OBJECTIF: Un nouveau procédé de soin des cheveux a été spécialement conçu pour lisser les cheveux ondulés des Japonaises[1]. Le procédé utilise le sulfonate de naphthalène-2 sodium (SNS) dans les étapes de réduction et d'oxydation du procédé conventionnel de permanente. Notre objectif était de comprendre la façon dont ce procédé induisait le lissage des cheveux en mesurant les différences de changement morphologique et ultrastructural entre les cheveux non traités et ceux soumis à une permanente conventionnelle et une permanente à base de SNS. Des fibres de laine de mérinos non traitées et soumises à une permanente à base de SNS ont été utilisées pour confirmer les changements structurels. MÉTHODES: Des échantillons de cheveux japonais ont été utilisés pour mesurer la courbure d'une fibre isolée avant et après le traitement de permanente. Une méthode de coloration argent a été mise au point pour colorer les fibres de cheveux sans changer la courbure des fibres afin de pouvoir utiliser la microscopie électronique en transmission pour mesurer les modifications des dimensions en largeur de tous les composants structurels du filament, de la cellule aux protéines. Une tomographie électronique a déterminé les pentes intermédiaires et les changements de pente des filaments après permanente à base de SNS par rapport à l'axe longitudinal central de la fibre. RÉSULTATS: On a constaté que la permanente à base de SNS induisait un gonflement en largeur plus important que la permanente classique des cellules paracorticales de la laine; de la cuticule, du complexe de la membrane cellulaire cuticulaire et de la distance centre à centre des macrofibrilles du cheveu; et des filaments intermédiaires dans la laine et les cheveux. Dans les cheveux ondulés, la permanente à base de SNS a provoqué à la fois un gonflement et une inclinaison des filaments intermédiaires des macrofibrilles hélicoïdales, entraînant une légère contraction longitudinale des macrofibrilles. Au total, le gonflement et l'inclinaison étaient plus importants dans les macrofibrilles hélicoïdales des cellules corticales de type B situées principalement dans la moitié convexe de la fibre. La présence d'un pourcentage plus élevé de macrofibrilles hélicoïdales dans la moitié convexe par rapport à la moitié concave de la fibre a entraîné une contraction différentielle entre les deux moitiés qui a entraîné le redressement de la fibre courbée. Un modèle mécanique a été proposé pour expliquer comment la permanente à base de SNS lissait les cheveux bouclés. CONCLUSION: Les effets de la permanente conventionnelle et à base de SNS sur les composants morphologiques et ultrastructuraux des cheveux japonais ondulés et des fibres de laine très frisés de mérinos ont permis de mieux comprendre le mécanisme du changement de courbure des fibres.

The walking dead: sequential nuclear and organelle destruction during hair development.

BACKGROUND: Transition of hair shaft keratinocytes from actively respiring, nucleated cells to structural cells devoid of nucleus and cytoplasm is key to hair production. This form of cell 'death', or cornification, requires cellular organelle removal to allow the cytoplasm to become packed with keratin filament bundles that further require cross-linking to create a strong hair fibre. Although these processes are well described in epidermal keratinocytes, there is a lack of understanding of such mechanisms, specifically in the hair follicle. OBJECTIVES: To gain insights into cornification mechanisms within the hair follicle and thus improve our understanding of normal hair physiology. METHODS: Scalp biopsies and hair-pluck samples were obtained from healthy human donors and analysed microscopically after immunohistochemical staining. RESULTS: A focal point of respiratory activity was evident in keratogenous zone cells within the hair shaft, which also exhibited nuclear damage. Nuclear degradation occurred via both caspase-dependent and caspase-independent pathways. Conversely, mitophagy was driven by Bnip3L and restricted to the boundary of the keratogenous zone at Adamson's Fringe. CONCLUSIONS: We propose a model of stepwise living-dead transition within the first 1 mm of hair formation, whereby fully functional, nucleated cells first consolidate required functions by degrading nuclear DNA, yet continue to respire and provide the source of reactive oxygen species required for keratin cross-linking. Finally, as the cells become packed with keratin bundles, Bnip3L expression triggers mitophagy to rid the cells of the last remaining 'living' characteristic, thus completing the march from 'living' to 'dead' within the hair follicle.

Redox proteomic evaluation of oxidative modification and recovery in a 3D reconstituted human skin tissue model exposed to UVB.

OBJECTIVE: Exposure to UV in humans resulting in sunburn triggers a complex series of events that are a mix of immediate and delayed damage mediation and healing. While studies on the effects of UV exposure on DNA damage and repair have been reported, changes in the oxidative modification of skin proteins are poorly understood at the molecular level, despite the important role played by structural proteins in skin tissue, and the effect of the integrity of these proteins on skin appearance and health. Proteomic molecular mapping of oxidation was here applied to try to enhance understanding of skin damage and recovery from oxidative damage and UVB exposure. METHODS: A redox proteomic-based approach was applied to evaluating skin protein modification when exposed to varying doses of UVB after initial oxidative stress, via tracking changes in protein oxidation during the healing process in vitro using a full-thickness reconstituted human skin tissue model. Bioassays and structural evaluation confirmed that our cultured skin tissues underwent a normal physiological response to UVB exposure. RESULTS: A set of potential skin marker peptides was generated, for use in tracking skin protein oxidative modification. Exposure to UVB after thermal oxidative stress was found to result in higher levels of skin protein oxidation than a non-irradiated control for up to seven days after exposure. Recovery of the skin proteins from oxidative stress, as assessed by the overall protein oxidation levels, was found to be impaired by UVB exposure. Oxidative modification was largely observed in skin structural proteins. CONCLUSION: Exposure of skin proteins to UVB exacerbates oxidative damage to structural skin proteins, with higher exposure levels leading to increasingly impaired recovery from this damage. This has potential implications for the functional performance of the proteins and inter-related skin health and cosmetic appearance.

Redox proteomic evaluation of bleaching and alkali damage in human hair.

OBJECTIVE: Protein modification and damage in human hair, resulting from environmental, cosmetic and grooming stresses, create changes to visual and tactile characteristics and correlates with consumer perception of quality. This study outlines molecular-level evaluation of modification resulting from peroxide (bleaching) and alkaline straightening (relaxing) treatments. METHODS: Redox proteomic profiling of virgin, bleached and relaxed hair tresses was performed, with comprehensive qualitative characterization of modification and semi-quantitative evaluation of damage through adaptation of a new damage scoring system. Modifications were mapped to specific locations in the hair proteome and a range of potential damage marker peptides identified. RESULTS: Virgin hair contained a baseline level of modification, consistent with environmental oxidative insult during hair growth. Hydrogen peroxide bleaching resulted in significantly increased levels of oxidative damage observable at the molecular level. This treatment also resulted in enhanced levels of dehydroalanine and dehydration products; modifications typically associated with alkali or thermal treatment and not previously been reported as a product of hair bleaching. Relaxation treatment with sodium hydroxide increased the formation of dehydroalanine and dehydration products and moderately enhanced the levels of oxidation. Cysteine was the predominant modification site for both bleaching and alkali damage. CONCLUSION: This study validates the utility and power of redox proteomic-based approaches to characterizing hair modification. This offers potential application to a wide range of damage types, as well as evaluation of new damage mitigation and repair technologies.

Transmission electron microscopy staining methods for the cortex of human hair: a modified osmium method and comparison with other stains.

For wool, superior staining of a wide range of ultrastructural components is achieved by en bloc treatment of fibres with a chemical reductant followed by osmium tetroxide. For human scalp hair, although staining quality is similar, the penetration of reagents is poor, resulting in large parts of the fibre cortex remaining unstained. Here we describe a modification to the reduction-osmication method in which reagents penetrate through a cut fibre end, allowing visualization of a wide range of features across the cortex. We compare the staining quality, artefacts and range of structure rendered visible using transmission electron microscopy for en bloc reduction-osmication to other staining alternatives including en bloc silver nitrate and section stains based on uranyl acetate and lead citrate, phosphotungstic acid, potassium permanganate, ammoniacal silver nitrate and some combinations of these stains. The effects of hair-care treatments are briefly examined.

Morphology and ultrastructure of antler velvet hair and body hair from red deer (Cervus elaphus).

We provide a detailed description of the ultrastructure of deer hair fibers. Guard hairs and underhairs from the winter coat of red deer (Cervus elaphus), and antler velvet hairs from the same species were examined. All fibers displayed the typical keratin fiber morphology of overlapping cuticle cells surrounding a core of cortex cells, and often a centrally-located medulla, but there were considerable differences in the diameter, cuticle thickness, and scale pattern, and in the relative amounts of cortex and medulla along individual fibers, and between the different types of fiber. In addition, closer examination of cortex cells using transmission electron microscopy revealed considerable differences in the arrangement of intermediate filaments in the different fiber types. Fine underhairs appeared similar to fine wool fibers from sheep because intermediate filament arrangements were very similar to those found in wool orthocortex cells and paracortex cells. In addition, a similar bilateral distribution of these cell types was evident. However, in the antler velvet hairs and the guard hairs, intermediate filament arrangements were more variable and complex, and showed similarities to those in heterotype cortex cells described for human hair.

Convergent evolution of eye ultrastructure and divergent evolution of vision-mediated predatory behaviour in jumping spiders.

All jumping spiders have unique, complex eyes with exceptional spatial acuity and some of the most elaborate vision-guided predatory strategies ever documented for any animal of their size. However, it is only recently that phylogenetic techniques have been used to reconstruct the relationships and key evolutionary events within the Salticidae. Here, we used data for 35 species and six genes (4.8 kb) for reconstructing the phylogenetic relationships between Spartaeinae, Lyssomaninae and Salticoida. We document a remarkable case of morphological convergence of eye ultrastructure in two clades with divergent predatory behaviour. We, furthermore, find evidence for a stepwise, gradual evolution of a complex predatory strategy. Divergent predatory behaviour ranges from cursorial hunting to building prey-catching webs and araneophagy with web invasion and aggressive mimicry. Web invasion and aggressive mimicry evolved once from an ancestral spartaeine that was already araneophagic and had no difficulty entering webs due to glue immunity. Web invasion and aggressive mimicry was lost once, in Paracyrba, which has replaced one highly specialized predation strategy with another (hunting mosquitoes). In contrast to the evolution of divergent behaviour, eyes with similarly high spatial acuity and ultrastructural design evolved convergently in the Salticoida and in Portia.

Cues by which Portia fimbriata, an araneophagic jumping spider, distinguishes jumping-spider prey from other prey.

Portia fimbriata from Queensland, Australia, is an araneophagic jumping spider (Salticidae) that includes in its predatory strategy a tactic (cryptic stalking) enabling it to prey effectively on a wide range of salticids from other genera. Optical cues used by P. fimbriata to identify the salticid species on which it most commonly preys, Jacksonoides queenslandicus, were investigated experimentally in the laboratory using odorless lures made from dead prey on which various combinations of features were altered. P. fimbriata adopted cryptic stalking only against intact salticid lures and modified lures on which the large anterior-median eyes were visible. Ordinary stalking was usually adopted when the lure did not have the anterior-median eyes visible. There was no evidence that cues from the legs of prey salticids influence the choice of stalking style of P. fimbriata, but cues from the legs do appear to influence strongly whether a prey is stalked at all. Cues from the cephalothorax and abdomen also influenced the stalking tendency, but to a lesser degree than cues from the legs. An algorithm to describe the perceptual processes of P. fimbriata when visually discriminating between salticid and non-salticid prey is discussed.