Structure/property comparisons of chemistries based on renewable 1,3-propanediol and petroleum-derived alkylene oxides.

Structure/property comparisons were made of chemistries based on renewable 1,3-propanediol (PDO)- versus petroleum-based alkylene oxides as well as comparisons of the respective polyethers, emulsifiers, and cosmetic formulations based on these feedstocks. Green Chemistry Principles were applied in the manufacture of polyethylene glycol (PEG)-free renewable PDO-based oligomers and PDO-based fatty acid ester emulsifiers. Sustainable cosmetic products formulated with renewable PDO-based emulsifiers gave equivalent performance in sensory and moisturization evaluations compared to those formulated with the petroleum-derived PEG-based emulsifiers.

A melanocortin receptor 1 and 5 antagonist inhibits sebaceous gland differentiation and the production of sebum-specific lipids.

BACKGROUND: The melanocortin receptor-5 (MC5R) is present in human sebaceous glands, where it is expressed in differentiated sebocytes only. The targeted disruption of MC5R in mice resulted in reduced sebaceous lipid production and a severe defect in water repulsion. OBJECTIVE: To investigate the physiological function of MC5R in human sebaceous glands. METHODS: A novel MC1R and MC5R antagonist (JNJ-10229570) was used to treat primary human sebaceous cells or human skins grafted onto severe combined immunodeficient (SCID) mice. Transcription profiling, lipid analyses, and histological and immunohistochemical staining were used to analyze the effect of MC5R inhibition on sebaceous gland differentiation and sebum production. RESULTS: JNJ-10229570 dose dependently inhibited the production of sebaceous lipids in cultured primary human sebocytes. Topical treatment with JNJ-10229570 of human skins transplanted onto SCID mice resulted in a marked decrease in sebum-specific lipid production, sebaceous gland's size and the expression of the sebaceous differentiation marker epithelial-membrane antigen (EMA). Treatment with flutamide, a known inhibitor of sebum production, gave similar results, validating the human skin/SCID mouse experimental system for sebaceous secretion studies. CONCLUSION: Our data suggest that antagonists of MC1R and MC5R could be effective sebum suppressive agents and might have a potential for the treatment of acne and other sebaceous gland pathologies.

Melanocortin-5 receptor and sebogenesis.

The melanocortins (α-MSH, ß-MSH, γ-MSH, and ACTH) bind to the melanocortin receptors and signal through increases in cyclic adenosine monophosphate to induce biological effects. The melanocortin MC(5) and MC(1) receptors are expressed in human sebaceous glands, which produce sebum, a lipid mixture of squalene, wax esters, triglycerides, cholesterol esters, and free fatty acids that is secreted onto the skin. Excessive sebum production is one of the major factors in the pathogenesis of acne. The expression of melanocortin MC(5) receptor has been associated with sebocyte differentiation and sebum production. Sebaceous lipids are down-regulated in melanocortin MC(5) receptor-deficient mice, consistent with the observation that α-MSH acts as a sebotropic hormone in rodents. These findings, which suggest that melanocortins stimulate sebaceous lipid production through the MC(5) receptor, led to our search for MC(5) receptor antagonists as potential sebum-suppressive agents. As predicted, an antagonist was shown to inhibit sebocyte differentiation in vitro, and to reduce sebum production in human skin transplanted onto immunodeficient mice. The melanocortin MC(5) receptor antagonists may prove to be clinically useful for the treatment of sebaceous disorders with excessive sebum production, such as acne.

Melanocortin-5 receptor: a marker of human sebocyte differentiation.

Melanocortin receptors (MC1R-MC5R) and their ligands (melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) and adrenocorticotrophin hormone (ACTH)) have been shown to influence physiological functions of cells and organs, including exocrine glands. Since relatively little is known about MC5R expression and function in the human sebaceous gland, we examined expression of MC5R by immunohistochemistry and RT-PCR in human sebaceous cells in vivo and in vitro. In human skin, MC5R was detected only in differentiating, lipid-laden sebaceous cells but not in basal, undifferentiated sebaceous cells. Similarly, in cultured human sebocytes MC5R was only detectable at the onset of differentiation and in fully differentiated cells displaying prominent lipid granules. The lipid profile of the cultured and differentiated human sebocytes was shown to be human sebum-specific using (14)C-acetate labeling and high performance thin layer chromatography. Our studies suggest that MC5R is a marker of human sebocyte differentiation.

Metabolic fate and selective utilization of major fatty acids in human sebaceous gland.

The sebaceous gland is an integral part of the pilosebaceous unit of mammalian skin, which produces and secretes a unique mixture of lipids, known as sebum. Wax esters, which account for approximately 25% of human sebaceous lipids, are unique in that they are not synthesized by other cells in the body. To explore the biosynthesis of wax esters, the metabolic fate of exogenously supplied saturated (16:0, 18:0), mono-unsaturated Delta9 (16:1, 18:1), and polyunsaturated (18:2, Delta9,12) fatty acids was followed in biopsy punches from human facial skin rich in sebaceous glands. Acetate was incorporated into all of the cellular and secreted lipids and 16:0 was incorporated into all of the fatty-acid-containing lipids. The 16:0 was elongated to 18:0 and the 16:1 was incorporated primarily into polar lipids, secondarily into triglycerides, but not into other lipids and was elongated to 18:1 (Delta11). As proven by HPTLC analysis, both 18:0 and 18:1 were incorporated into the cellular lipids but at a lower rate into wax esters. Moreover, addition of exogenous 18:1 was not further processed following initial incorporation. Linoleic acid (18:2, Delta9,12) was the only fatty acid tested that appeared to be subjected to beta-oxidation. This was proven to be specific to linoleic acid, as it did not induce the oxidation of other fatty acids. The ability of the sebaceous cells to synthesize wax esters correlated with the beta-oxidation activity in these cells. Thus, the oxidation of linoleic acid is specific for the sebaceous cells and correlates with their function and differentiation. Our results provide evidence that the sebaceous gland selectively utilizes fatty acids as 16:0 is the preferred fatty acid that is incorporated into wax esters and linoleic acid undergoes beta-oxidation.