Silica Microparticles from Sugarcane By-Products as an Encapsulation System for Retinoids Aimed at Topical Sustained Release.

The encapsulation of retinol within silica microparticles has emerged as a promising opportunity in the realm of cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations, driven by the need to reinforce the photoprotection and oxidation stability of retinol. This work examines the process of encapsulating retinol into silica microparticles. The association efficiency, microparticle size, molecular structure, morphology, oxidation, and release profile, as well as biocompatibility and skin sensitization, were evaluated. Results showed that 0.03% of retinol and 9% of emulsifier leads to an association efficiency higher than 99% and a particle size with an average of 5.2 µm. FTIR results indicate that there is an association of retinol with the silica microparticles, and some may be on the surface. Microscopy indicates that when association happens, there is less aggregation of the particles. Oxidation occurs in two different phases, the first related to the retinol on the surface and the second to the associated retinol. In addition, a burst release of up to 3 h (30% free retinol, 17% associated retinol) was observed, as well as a sustained release of 44% of retinol up to 24 h. Encapsulation allowed an increase in the minimal skin cytotoxic concentrations of retinol from 0.04 µg/mL to 1.25 mg/mL without skin sensitization. Overall, retinol is protected when associated with silica microparticles, being safe to use in cosmetics and dermatology.

Circular economyeast: Saccharomyces cerevisiae as a sustainable source of glucans and its safety for skincare application.

Glucans, a polysaccharide naturally present in the yeast cell wall that can be obtained from side streams generated during the fermentation process, have gained increasing attention for their potential as a skin ingredient. Therefore, this study focused on the extraction method to isolate and purify water-insoluble glucans from two different Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains: an engineered strain obtained from spent yeast in an industrial fermentation process and a wild strain produced through lab-scale fermentation. Two water-insoluble extracts with a high glucose content (> 90 %) were achieved and further subjected to a chemical modification using carboxymethylation to improve their water solubility. All the glucans' extracts, water-insoluble and carboxymethylated, were structurally and chemically characterized, showing almost no differences between both yeast-type strains. To ensure their safety for skin application, a broad safety assessment was undertaken, and no cytotoxic effect, immunomodulatory capacity (IL-6 and IL-8 regulation), genotoxicity, skin sensitization, and impact on the skin microbiota were observed. These findings highlight the potential of glucans derived from spent yeast as a sustainable and safe ingredient for cosmetic and skincare formulations, contributing to the sustainability and circular economy.

Anti-Aging Potential of a Novel Ingredient Derived from Sugarcane Straw Extract (SSE).

Natural and sustainable anti-aging ingredients have gained attention from the cosmetic industry. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a sugarcane straw extract-based (SSE) cosmetic ingredient. First, cytotoxicity tests were assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblast cell lines, and sensitization was carried out through the direct peptide reactivity assay. Subsequently, various anti-aging properties were investigated, including inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes, promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and anti-pollution activity. Finally, a permeability assay using a synthetic membrane resembling skin was conducted. The results demonstrated that the SSE ingredient effectively inhibited elastase (55%), collagenase (25%), and tyrosinase (47%) while promoting hyaluronic acid production at non-cytotoxic and low-sensitizer concentrations. Moreover, it reduced the inflammatory response provoked by urban pollution, as evidenced by decreased levels of IL1-α and IL-6. However, it was observed that the phenolic compounds predominantly reached the skin's surface, indicating a limited ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, it can be concluded that the SSE ingredient holds anti-aging properties, albeit with limited penetration into deeper skin layers. Further research and formulation advancements are needed to optimize the ingredient's ability to reach and exert its effects in deeper skin layers.