Comparison of kink-band structures and specificities of cell wall polysaccharides in modern and ancient flax fibres.

Flax (Linum usitatissimum L.) is a plant of industrial importance, its fibres being presently used for high-value textile applications, composite reinforcements as well as natural actuators. Human interest in this fibre-rich plant dates back several millennia, including to Ancient Egypt where flax was used extensively in various quotidian items. While the recent technical developments of flax fibres continue to diversify through scientific research, the historical use of flax also has rich lessons for today. Through careful examination of ancient Egyptian and modern flax fibres, this study aims to conduct a multi-scale characterization from the yarn to the fibre cell wall scale, linking differences in structure and polysaccharide content to the mechanical performance and durability of flax. Here, a multi-scale biochemical study is enriched by scanning electron microscopy and nanomechanical investigations. A key finding is the similarity of cellulose features, crystallinity index and local mechanical performances between ancient and modern fibres. Biochemically speaking, monosaccharides analysis, deep-UV and NMR investigations demonstrate that ancient fibres exhibit less pectins but a similar hemicellulosic content, especially through uronic acids and galactose, suggesting the sensitivity of these non-crystalline components.

Lessons on textile history and fibre durability from a 4,000-year-old Egyptian flax yarn.

Flax has a long and fascinating history. This plant was domesticated around 8,000 BCE1 in the Fertile Crescent area2, first for its seeds and then for its fibres1,3. Although its uses existed long before domestication, residues of flax yarn dated 30,000 years ago have been found in the Caucasus area4. However, Ancient Egypt laid the foundations for the cultivation of flax as a textile fibre crop5. Today flax fibres are used in high-value textiles and in natural actuators6 or reinforcements in composite materials7. Flax is therefore a bridge between ages and civilizations. For several decades, the development of non- or micro-destructive analysis techniques has led to numerous works on the conservation of ancient textiles. Non-destructive methods, such as optical microscopy8 or vibrational techniques9,10, have been largely used to investigate archaeological textiles, principally to evaluate their degradation mechanisms and state of conservation. Vibrational spectroscopy studies can now benefit from synchrotron radiation11 and X-ray diffraction measurement in the archaeometric study of historical textiles12,13. Conservation of mechanical performance and the ultrastructural differences between ancient and modern flax varieties have not been examined thus far. Here we examine the morphological, ultrastructural and mechanical characteristics of a yarn from an Egyptian mortuary linen dating from the early Middle Kingdom (Eleventh Dynasty, ca. 2033-1963 BCE) and compare them with a modern flax yarn to assess the quality and durability of ancient flax fibres and relate these to their processing methods. Advanced microscopy techniques, such as nano-tomography, multiphoton excitation microscopy and atomic force microscopy were used. Our findings reveal the cultural know-how of this ancient civilization in producing high-fineness fibres, as well as the exceptional durability of flax, which is sometimes questioned, demonstrating their potential as reinforcements in high-technology composites.