Antioxidant role on the protection of melanocytes against visible light-induced photodamage.

Visible light can induce the generation of singlet oxygen and can cause oxidative stress, especially in melanocytes due to melanin photosensitization. Currently, there is no organic UV-filter that provide visible light protection. Previous studies showed that some antioxidants, such as apigenin (API), chrysin (CRI) and beta-carotene (BTC) besides neutralizing radical chain reactions can also quench singlet oxygen via physical or chemical quenching and exhibit potential for use in photoprotection. Therefore, the aim of this study is to evaluate the efficacy of API, CRI and BTC on the protection against cell death induced by melanin photosensitization and understand the underlying mechanisms that are involved in the protection. Precise protocols of melanogenesis and quantification of singlet oxygen generation were developed. Viability of B16-F10 cells with melanin basal levels and after melanogenesis induction was evaluated after visible light exposure in the presence and absence of API, CRI and BTC. Results showed that API and BTC protected cells from photoinduced cell death API exhibiting superior photoprotective effect. We noticed that the efficiency of cell protection and the rate of singlet oxygen suppression are not well correlated, at least for the studied series of antioxidants, indicating that the anti-radical capacity should be playing a major role in protecting cells against the damage induced by melanin photosensitization. In terms of sun care strategies, both API and BTC offer protection against visible light-induced damages and may be effective topical antioxidants to be added to sunscreens.

In vitro photosafety and efficacy screening of apigenin, chrysin and beta-carotene for UVA and VIS protection.

Currently most of sunscreens provide effective protection in the full UV range but lack VIS protection. The addition of effective antioxidants to sunscreens might afford suitable UV-VIS protection. Apigenin (API), chrysin (CRI) and beta-carotene (BTC) have shown potential for UV-VIS protection. This paper reports a photosafety and efficacy screening of such antioxidants through evaluation of the photostability, photoreactivity and phototoxicity as well as UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength. The assessment of the photostability, photoreactivity and phototoxicity of API, CRI and BTC, isolated and combined (CMB) was performed by HPLC, ROS assay and 3T3 NRU phototoxicity test, respectively. The phototoxicity test was also performed for CMB plus bemotrizinol (BMZ). The in vitro evaluation of the UVA protection was assessed by the determination of the UVA/UVB ratio and the critical wavelength. The antioxidants API, CRI, BTC and CMB were stable under UVA/VIS and VIS light. However weak photoreactivity after UVA/VIS irradiation was observed for API, CRI and CMB in the ROS assay. In the 3T3 NRU phototoxicity test, phototoxic potential was observed for CRI, BTC, CMB and CMB+BMZ after UVA/VIS exposure, and for BTC and CMB after VIS exposure. BMZ reduced the phototoxic potential of CMB in the VIS range. In the in vitro evaluation of UVA protection API, CRI, BTC, CMB and CMB+BMZ presented ultra UVA protection (UVA/UVB ratio>0.9) and exhibited critical wavelength close to or above 370nm. In conclusion, the use of API, CRI, BTC and their CMB aiming skin photoprotection could be considered safer in the VIS range. Furthermore, API presented the best performance in the photosafety screening among the studied antioxidants, since it was photostable and non-phototoxic in UVA/VIS and photostable, non-photoreactive and non-phototoxic in VIS range.

Photostability evaluation of five UV-filters, trans-resveratrol and beta-carotene in sunscreens.

Trans-resveratrol (RES) is used in cosmetic formulations and beta-carotene (BTC) is a classical sunscreen antioxidant, but their photostability in sunscreens, a property directly correlated to performance and safety has not been addressed in the literature. This paper reports the assessment of RES and/or BTC influence on the photostability of five UV-filters (octyl methoxycinnamate - OMC, avobenzone -AVO, octocrylene - OCT, bemotrizinole - BMZ, octyltriazone - OTZ) in three different combinations after UVA exposure followed by the identification of degradation products and the assessment of photoreactivity. The evaluation of sunscreen photostability was performed by HPLC and spectrophotometric analysis, and degradation products were identified by GC-MS analysis. Components RES, BTC, OMC and AVO were significantly degraded after UV exposure (reduction of around 16% in recovery). According to HPLC analysis, all formulations presented similar photostability profiles. Eleven degradation products were identified in GC-MS analysis, among them products of RES, BTC, OMC and AVO photodegradation. All evaluated formulations were considered photoreactive, as well as the isolated compounds RES and AVO. Considering HPLC, spectrophotometric and GC-MS results, it is suggested that formulations containing BMZ were considered the most photostable. The combination RES+BTC in a sunscreen improved the photostability of AVO. The benefits of using a combination of antioxidants in sunscreens was demonstrated by showing that using RES+BTC+studied UV-filters led to more photostable formulations, which in turn implies in better safety and efficacy.