Pulp or Peel? Comparative Analysis of the Phytochemical Content and Selected Cosmetic-Related Properties of Annona cherimola L., Diospyros kaki Thumb., Cydonia oblonga Mill. and Fortunella margarita Swingle Pulp and Peel Extracts.

Fruit peels might be a valuable source of active ingredients for cosmetics, leading to more sustainable usage of plant by-products. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical content and selected biological properties of hydroglycolic extracts from peels and pulps of Annona cherimola, Diospyros kaki, Cydonia oblonga, and Fortunella margarita as potential cosmetic ingredients. Peel and pulp extracts were compared for their antiradical activity (using DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays), skin-lightening potential (tyrosinase inhibitory assay), sun protection factor (SPF), and cytotoxicity toward human fibroblast, keratinocyte, and melanoma cell lines. The total content of polyphenols and/or flavonoids was significantly higher in peel than in pulp extracts, and the composition of particular active compounds was also markedly different. The HPLC-MS fingerprinting revealed the presence of catechin, epicatechin and rutoside in the peel of D. kaki, whereas kaempferol glucoside and procyanidin A were present only in the pulp. In A. cherimola, catechin, epicatechin and rutoside were identified only in the peel of the fruit, whereas procyanidins were traced only in the pulp extracts. Quercetin and luteolinidin were found to be characteristic compounds of F. margarita peel extract. Naringenin and hesperidin were found only in the pulp of F. margarita. The most significant compositional variety between the peel and pulp extracts was observed for C. oblonga: Peel extracts contained a higher number of active components (e.g., vicenin-2, kaempferol rutinoside, or kaempferol galactoside) than pulp extract. The radical scavenging potential of peel extracts was higher than of the pulp extracts. D. kaki and F. margarita peel and pulp extracts inhibited mushroom and murine tyrosinases at comparable levels. The C. oblonga pulp extract was a more potent mushroom tyrosinase inhibitor than the peel extract. Peel extract of A. cherimola inhibited mushroom tyrosinase but activated the murine enzyme. F. margarita pulp and peel extracts showed the highest in vitro SPF. A. cherimola, D. kaki, and F. margarita extracts were not cytotoxic for fibroblasts and keratinocytes up to a concentration of 2% (v/v) and the peel extracts were cytotoxic for A375 melanoma cells. To summarize, peel extracts from all analyzed fruit showed comparable or better cosmetic-related properties than pulp extracts and might be considered multifunctional active ingredients of skin lightening, anti-aging, and protective cosmetics.

Moringa oleifera (drumstick tree)-nutraceutical, cosmetological and medicinal importance: a review.

Moringa oleifera Lam. (Moringaceae) is a species of tree with an increasing utility, occurring naturally mainly in Pakistan and northern India. M. oleifera is currently cultivated in Africa, South America, Asia and the Middle East. The usage of its leaves, seed oil, bark, fruits, flowers and roots has positive opinions of FDA (American Food and Drug Administration), EFSA (European Food Safety Authority) and CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredients database). The chemical composition of M. oleifera is dominated by: proteins (consisting mainly of amino acids such as arginine or serine), fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6), vitamins (vitamin A, B and C and tocopherols), mineral salts (including several bioelements, such as calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium), valuable polyphenolic compounds from the group of phenolic acids (e.g., gallic acid, ferulic acid) and flavonoids (e.g., myricetin, rutoside, and kaempferol). The raw materials show antioxidant, hepatoprotective, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Dietary supplements and alimentary products containing M. oleifera are recommended as health-promoting and "novel food" preparations. The main purpose of this work was a review of the latest scientific literature on M. oleifera, with particular emphasis on the studies focusing on its chemical composition, biological activity and safety. Moreover, the review tends to discuss the results of biotechnological studies using this material and the agronomical significance.

Double Hydroxyl Salt as Smart Biocompatible pH-Responsive Carrier for 6-Mercaptopurine.

Hydroxy double salts are layered materials that are considered to be biocompatible. For this reason, research has been initiated on the possibility of their use in drug delivery. Despite their use for several types of drugs, their potential for controlled release of mercaptopurine (MERC) has not been studied. In this work, the synthesized hydroxy double salt (HDS) material was used as a carrier for this drug for the first time. The effectiveness of HDS synthesis has been proven by such techniques as X-ray diffraction (XRD), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Based on the FT-IR and energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS) results, the effectiveness of drug sorption was proven. The exact amount of drug retained was determined by the UV-Vis technique. The obtained results indicate that the drug is evenly distributed on the surface of the carrier, which is important during the controlled delivery of drugs. In the most important stage of the research, the effectiveness of drug release in response to changes in the pH of the environment was proven. The drug is not released into an environment that mimics healthy human tissues. It is released only after contact with the acidic environment that usually surrounds cancer cells. The low cellular toxicity of HDS and significant cytotoxic effect of HDS-MERC were confirmed by in vitro studies on MCF-7 human breast and DU145 prostate cancer cell lines and non-cancerous keratinocytes HaCaT. Interestingly, coupling with the HDS carrier increased the cytotoxic effect of MERC towards DU145 cells. Such an "intelligent" drug carrier for mercaptopurine has not been previously described in the literature. The obtained results indicate its great potential.

Therapeutic Potential of 1,8-Dihydroanthraquinone Derivatives for Breast Cancer.

Breast cancer (BC) is the most common malignancy among women worldwide. In recent years, significant progress has been made in BC therapy. However, serious side effects resulting from the use of standard chemotherapeutic drugs, as well as the phenomenon of multidrug resistance (MDR), limit the effectiveness of approved therapies. Advanced research in the BC area is necessary to create more effective and safer forms of therapy to improve the outlook for individuals diagnosed with this aggressive neoplasm. For decades, plants and natural products with anticancer properties have been successfully utilized in treating various medical conditions. Anthraquinone derivatives are tricyclic secondary metabolites of natural origin that have been identified in plants, lichens, and fungi. They represent a few botanical families, e.g., Rhamnaceae, Rubiaceae, Fabaceae, Polygonaceae, and others. The review comprehensively covers and analyzes the most recent advances in the anticancer activity of 1,8-dihydroanthraquinone derivatives (emodin, aloe-emodin, hypericin, chrysophanol, rhein, and physcion) applied both individually, or in combination with other chemotherapeutic agents, in in vitro and in vivo BC models. The application of nanoparticles for in vitro and in vivo evidence in the context of 1,8-dihydroanthraquinone derivatives was also described.

Significance of Astragaloside IV from the Roots of Astragalus mongholicus as an Acetylcholinesterase Inhibitor-From the Computational and Biomimetic Analyses to the In Vitro and In Vivo Studies of Safety.

The main aim of the study was to assess the acetylcholinesterase-inhibitory potential of triterpenoid saponins (astragalosides) found in the roots of Astragalus mongholicus. For this purpose, the TLC bioautography method was applied and then the IC50 values were calculated for astragalosides II, III and IV (5.9 µM; 4.2 µM, and 4.0 µM, respectively). Moreover, molecular dynamics simulations were carried outto assess the affinity of the tested compounds for POPC and POPG-containing lipid bilayers, which in this case are the models of the blood-brain barrier (BBB). All determined free energy profiles confirmed that astragalosides exhibit great affinity for the lipid bilayer. A good correlation was obtained when comparing the logarithm of n-octanol/water partition coefficient (logPow) lipophilicity descriptor values with the smallest values of free energy of the determined 1D profiles. The affinity for the lipid bilayers changes in the same order as the corresponding logPow values, i.e.,: I > II > III~IV. All compounds exhibit a high and also relatively similar magnitude of binding energies, varying from ca. -55 to -51 kJ/mol. Apositive correlation between the experimentally-determined IC50 values and the theoretically-predicted binding energies expressed by the correlation coefficient value equal 0.956 was observed.

Phytochemical Profiling, Antioxidant and Tyrosinase Regulatory Activities of Extracts from Herb, Leaf and In Vitro Culture of Achillea millefolium (Yarrow).

Achillea millefolium L. is one of the most known medicinal plants with a broad spectrum of applications in the treatment of inflammation, pain, microbial infections and gastrointestinal disorders. In recent years, the extracts from A. millefolium have also been applied in cosmetics with cleansing, moisturizing, shooting, conditioning and skin-lightening properties. The growing demand for naturally derived active substances, worsening environmental pollution and excessive use of natural resources are causing increased interest in the development of alternative methods for the production of plant-based ingredients. In vitro plant cultures are an eco-friendly tool for continuous production of desired plant metabolites, with increasing applicability in cosmetics and dietary supplements. The purpose of the study was to compare phytochemical composition and antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory properties of aqueous and hydroethanolic extracts from A. millefolium obtained from field conditions (AmL and AmH extracts) and in vitro cultures (AmIV extracts). In vitro microshoot cultures of A. millefolium were obtained directly from seeds and harvested following 3 weeks of culture. Extracts prepared in water, 50% ethanol and 96% ethanol were compared for the total polyphenolic content, phytochemical content using the ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-hr-qTOF/MS), antioxidant activity by DPPH scavenging assay and the influence on the activity of mushroom and murine tyrosinases. The phytochemical content of AmIV extracts was significantly different from AmL and AmH extracts. Most of the polyphenolic compounds identified in AmL and AmH extracts were present in AmIV extracts only in trace amounts and the major constituents presented in AmIV extracts were fatty acids. The total content of polyphenols in AmIV exceeded 0.25 mg GAE/g of dried extract, whereas AmL and AmH extracts contained from 0.46 ± 0.01 to 2.63 ± 0.11 mg GAE/g of dried extract, depending on the solvent used. The low content of polyphenols was most likely responsible for the low antioxidant activity of AmIV extracts (IC50 values in DPPH scavenging assay >400 µg/mL) and the lack of tyrosinase inhibitory properties. AmIV extracts increased the activity of mushroom tyrosinase and tyrosinase present in B16F10 murine melanoma cells, whereas AmL and AmH extracts showed significant inhibitory potential. The presented data indicated that microshoot cultures of A. millefolium require further experimental research before they can be implemented as a valuable raw material for the cosmetics industry.

Cannabidiol and Minor Phytocannabinoids: A Preliminary Study to Assess Their Anti-Melanoma, Anti-Melanogenic, and Anti-Tyrosinase Properties.

Currently, there is an increased interest from both scientists and consumers in the application of cannabis/hemp/phytocannabinoids in skin-related disorders. However, most previous investigations assessed the pharmacological properties of hemp extracts, cannabidiol (CBD), or tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), with very few studies focusing on minor phytocannabinoids from hemp. In this context, the current work explored the in vitro anti-melanoma, anti-melanogenic, and anti-tyrosinase effects of cannabidiol (CBD) and three minor phytocannabinoids, namely cannabigerol (CBG), cannabinol (CBN), and cannabichromene (CBC). Among the tested human malignant melanoma cells (A375, SH4, and G361), only A375 cells were highly susceptible to the 48 h treatment with the four phytocannabinoids (IC50 values between 12.02 and 25.13 µg/mL). When melanogenesis was induced in murine melanoma B16F10 cells by α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (αMSH), CBD, CBG, and CBN significantly decreased the extracellular (29.76-45.14% of αMSH+ cells) and intracellular (60.59-67.87% of αMSH+ cells) melanin content at 5 µg/mL. Lastly, CBN (50-200 µg/mL) inhibited both mushroom and murine tyrosinase, whereas CBG (50-200 µg/mL) and CBC (100-200 µg/mL) down-regulated only the mushroom tyrosinase activity; in contrast, CBD was practically inactive. The current data show that tyrosinase inhibition might not be responsible for reducing the melanin biosynthesis in α-MSH-treated B16F10 cells. By evaluating for the first time the preliminary anti-melanoma, anti-melanogenic, and anti-tyrosinase properties of CBN and CBC and confirming similar effects for CBD and CBG, this study can expand the utilization of CBD and, in particular, of minor phytocannabinoids to novel cosmeceutical products for skin care.

Multidirectional Characterization of Phytochemical Profile and Health-Promoting Effects of Ziziphora bungeana Juz. Extracts.

Ziziphora species (Lamiaceae) have been used in traditional medicine as sedatives, antiseptics, carminatives, or expectorants. Despite their common applications in phytotherapy, there is still lack of evidence about the composition of their extracts and its impact on biological properties of the plants. The aim of this study was to evaluate the content of Ziziphora bungeana, a less studied species growing in Kazakhstan, using HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS instrumentation and to determine its antimicrobial, antioxidant, and cytotoxic activity together with inhibitory properties against tyrosinase and toxicity in erythrocyte lysis assay. Extracts from Z. bungeana were found to be sources of flavonoids, phenolic acids, organic acids, and terpenes that determined their antiradical activity. The minimum inhibitory concentrations of extracts were lower for Gram-positive bacteria (1.25-10 mg/mL) than for Gram-negative bacteria and fungi (5-20 mg/mL). The EC50 value calculated for antiradical activity ranged between 15.00 ± 1.06 µg/mL and 13.21 ± 3.24 µg/mL for ABTS and DPPH assays, respectively. Z. bungeana extracts were found to decrease the activity of tyrosinase by 50% (at 200 µg/mL) similarly to kojic acid and were slightly cytotoxic for human melanoma A375 cell line (at 200 µg/mL) with no effect on HaCaT keratinocytes. In the end, Z. bungeana did not reveal toxic effects in hemolytic assay as compared to the positive control Triton X-100. The performed tests show potential application of the plant in the treatment of infectious diseases, disorders caused by free radicals, and skin problems.

Assessment of Cucurbita spp. Peel Extracts as Potential Sources of Active Substances for Skin Care and Dermatology.

By-products of cultivated plants are one of the major environmental concerns worldwide. Due to the high concentration of bioactive chemicals, such waste may be considered hazardous due to the interference with the plant growth, deterioration of the drinking water quality or toxic effects on sensitive marine organisms. Moreover, plant-derived by-products, with proper handling, may represent a low-cost source of bioactive compounds potentially important for pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant activity, the influence of tyrosinase activity, in vitro sun protecting factor and cytotoxicity of 15 extracts from peels of five cultivars of Cucurbita maxima and C. moschata. The extracts were prepared using "green solvents" (water, 50% propylene glycol, and 20% ethanol) and ultrasound-assisted extraction. The performed analysis showed that the peel extracts from various cultivars differ significantly in respect to the phytochemical content and activity. The type of solvent also had a significant impact on the extract's composition and bioactivity. Aqueous peel extracts contained the highest amounts of flavonoids, showed the greatest antioxidant potential and the most significant in vitro SPF values. In vitro studies showed that the analyzed peel extracts are not cytotoxic for human keratinocytes up to the concentration of 1000 µg/mL and thus might be considered as non-irritant for the skin. The study confirms the potential application of peel extracts from Cucurbita spp. cultivars in cosmetic products.

Extracts from European Propolises as Potent Tyrosinase Inhibitors.

Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in the melanogenesis pathway. Melanin, the product of this process, is the main pigment of the human skin and a major protection factor against harmful ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Increased melanin synthesis due to tyrosinase hyperactivity can cause hyperpigmentation disorders, which in consequence causes freckles, age spots, melasma, or postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Tyrosinase overproduction and hyperactivity are triggered by the ageing processes and skin inflammation as a result of oxidative stress. Therefore, the control of tyrosinase activity is the main goal of the prevention and treatment of pigmentation disorders. Natural products, especially propolis, according to their phytochemical profile abundant in polyphenols, is a very rich resource of new potential tyrosinase inhibitors. Therefore, this study focused on the assessment of the tyrosinase inhibitory potential of six extracts obtained from the European propolis samples of various origins. The results showed the potent inhibitory activity of all tested propolis extracts towards commercially available mushroom tyrosinase. The four most active propolis extracts showed inhibitory activity in the range of 86.66-93.25%. Apart from the evaluation of the tyrosinase inhibition, the performed research included UHPLC-DAD-MS/MS (ultra high performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detection and tandem mass spectrometry) phytochemical profiling as well as antioxidant activity assessment using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and the 2,2"-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfuric acid (ABTS) radical scavenging tests. Moreover, statistical analysis was used to correlate the tyrosinase inhibitory and antioxidant activities of propolis extracts with their phytochemical composition. To summarise, the results of our research showed that tested propolis extracts could be used for skin cosmeceutical and medical applications.

Liquid-Liquid Chromatography Separation of Guaiane-Type Sesquiterpene Lactones from Ferula penninervis Regel & Schmalh. and Evaluation of Their In Vitro Cytotoxic and Melanin Inhibitory Potential.

Ferula penninervis Regel & Schmalh. is a perennial plant used in Kazakh traditional folk medicine to treat epilepsy, neurosis, rheumatism, gastroduodenal ulcers, dyspepsia, wounds, abscesses or tumors. The aim of this work was to isolate series of sesquiterpene lactones from a crude methanolic root extract and investigate their in vitro cytotoxic potential against androgen-dependent prostate cancer LNCaP and epithelial prostate PNT2 cells, as well as to evaluate their melanin production inhibitory effects in murine melanoma B16F10 cells stimulated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (αMSH). Two new (penninervin P and penninervin Q) and five known (olgin, laferin, olgoferin, oferin and daucoguainolactone F) guaiane-type sesquiterpene lactones were isolated with the use of a simple and fast liquid-liquid chromatography method. Olgin and laferin showed the most promising cytotoxic effects in LNCaP cells (IC50 of 31.03 and 23.26 µg/mL, respectively). Additionally, olgin, laferin, olgoferin, and oferin (10 µg/mL) potently impaired melanin release (40.67-65.48% of αMSH + cells) without influencing the viability of B16F10 cells. In summary, our findings might indicate that guaiane-type sesquiterpene lactones from F. penninervis could be regarded as promising candidates for further research in discovering new therapeutic agents with anti-prostate cancer and skin depigmentation properties.

Insights into the Phytochemical and Multifunctional Biological Profile of Spices from the Genus Piper.

Piper spices represent an inexhaustible reservoir of bioactive compounds that may act as drug leads in natural product research. The aim of this study was to investigate a series of methanolic fruit extracts obtained from P. nigrum (black, green, white and red), P. longum and P. retrofractum in comparative phytochemical and multi-directional biological (antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-enzymatic and anti-melanogenic) assays. The metabolite profiling revealed the presence of 17 piperamides, with a total content of 247.75-591.42 mg piperine equivalents/g. Among the 22 tested microorganism strains, Piper spices were significantly active (MIC < 0.1 mg/mL) against the anaerobes Actinomyces israelii and Fusobacterium nucleatum. The antioxidant and anti-enzymatic activities were evidenced in DPPH (10.64-82.44 mg TE/g) and ABTS (14.20-77.60 mg TE/g) radical scavenging, CUPRAC (39.94-140.52 mg TE/g), FRAP (16.05-77.00 mg TE/g), chelating (0-34.80 mg EDTAE/g), anti-acetylcholinesterase (0-2.27 mg GALAE/g), anti-butyrylcholinesterase (0.60-3.11 mg GALAE/g), anti-amylase (0.62-1.11 mmol ACAE/g) and anti-glucosidase (0-1.22 mmol ACAE/g) assays. Several Piper extracts (10 µg/mL) inhibited both melanin synthesis (to 32.05-60.65% of αMSH+ cells) and release (38.06-45.78% of αMSH+ cells) in αMSH-stimulated B16F10 cells, partly explained by their tyrosinase inhibitory properties. Our study uncovers differences between Piper spices and sheds light on their potential use as nutraceuticals or cosmeceuticals for the management of different diseases linked to bacterial infections, Alzheimer's dementia, type 2 diabetes mellitus or hyperpigmentation.

Is Phytomelatonin Complex Better Than Synthetic Melatonin? The Assessment of the Antiradical and Anti-Inflammatory Properties.

This work aims to assess the recently established anti-inflammatory and antioxidant potential of melatonin of plant origin extracted from the plant matrix as a phytomelatonin complex (PHT-MLT), and compare its activity with synthetic melatonin (SNT-MLT) when used on its own or with vitamin C. For this purpose, a COX-2 enzyme inhibitory activity test, an antiradical activity in vitro and on cell lines assays, was performed on both PHT-MLT and SNT-MLT products. COX-2 inhibitory activity of PHT-MLT was found to be ca. 6.5 times stronger than that of SNT-MLT (43.3% and 6.7% enzyme inhibition, equivalent to the activity of acetylsalicylic acid in conc. 30.3 ± 0.2 and 12.0 ± 0.3 mg/mL, respectively). Higher antiradical potential and COX-2 inhibitory properties of PHT-MLT could be explained by the presence of additional naturally occurring constituents in alfalfa, chlorella, and rice, which were clearly visible on the HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS fingerprint. The antiradical properties of PHT-MLT determined in the DPPH test (IC50 of 21.6 ± 1 mg of powder/mL) were found to originate from the presence of other metabolites in the 50% EtOH extract while SNT-MLT was found to be inactive under the applied testing conditions. However, the antioxidant studies on HaCaT keratinocytes stimulated with H2O2 revealed a noticeable activity in all samples. The presence of PHT-MLT (12.5, 25 and 50 µg/mL) and vitamin C (12.5, 25 and 50 µg/mL) in the H2O2-pretreated HaCaT keratinocytes protected the cells from generating reactive oxygen species. This observation confirms that MLT-containing samples affect the intracellular production of enzymes and neutralize the free radicals. Presented results indicated that MLT-containing products in combination with Vitamin C dosage are worth to be considered as a preventive alternative in the therapy of various diseases in the etiopathogenesis, of which radical and inflammatory mechanisms play an important role.

The Phenolic Compounds Profile and Cosmeceutical Significance of Two Kazakh Species of Onions: Alliumgalanthum and A. turkestanicum.

Numerous species of Allium genus have been used in the traditional medicine based on their vast biological effects, e.g., antimicrobial, digestion stimulant, anti-sclerotic, soothing, antiradical or wound healing properties. In this work, unpolar and polar extracts from two lesser-investigated species of Allium growing in Kazakhstan, Alliumgalanthum Kar. & Kir. (AG) and A. turkestanicum Regel. (AT), were studied for their composition and biological effects. In the HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analyses of water and alcoholic extracts simple organic acids, flavonoids and their glycosides were found to be the best represented group of secondary metabolites. On the other hand, in the GC-MS analysis diethyl ether, extracts were found to be rich sources of straight-chain hydrocarbons and their alcohols, fatty acids and sterols. The antimicrobial activity assessment showed a lower activity of polar extracts, however, the diethyl ether extract from AT bulbs and AG chives showed the strongest activity against Bacillus subtilis ATCC 6633, B. cereus ATCC 10876, some species of Staphylococcus (S. aureus ATCC 25923 and S. epidermidis ATCC 12228) and all tested Candida species (Candida albicans ATCC 2091, Candida albicans ATCC 10231, Candida glabrata ATCC 90030, Candida krusei ATCC 14243 and Candida parapsilosis ATCC 22019) with a minimum inhibitory concentration of 0.125-0.5 mg/mL. The highest antiradical capacity exhibited diethyl ether extracts from AG bulbs (IC50 = 19274.78 ± 92.11 mg Trolox eq/g of dried extract) in DPPH assay. In ABTS scavenging assay, the highest value of mg Trolox equivalents, 50.85 ± 2.90 was calculated for diethyl ether extract from AT bulbs. The same extract showed the highest inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase (82.65 ± 1.28% of enzyme activity), whereas AG bulb ether extract was the most efficient murine tyrosinase inhibitor (54% of the enzyme activity). The performed tests confirm possible cosmeceutical applications of these plants.

Corrigendum: Immunomodulatory Effects of Diterpenes and Their Derivatives Through NLRP3 Inflammasome Pathway: A Review.

[This corrects the article DOI: 10.3389/fimmu.2020.572136.].

Achillea Species as Sources of Active Phytochemicals for Dermatological and Cosmetic Applications.

Achillea spp. is well known for its broad range of applications and long history of use in traditional medicine around the world. Health benefits of Achillea extracts result from the multitude of secondary metabolites identified in the plants from this genus that include flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenes, guaianolides, phytosterols, fatty acids, and organic acids. The properties of several Achillea extracts meet also the expectations of a vividly developing cosmetic market. An increasing number of studies on the dermatological properties of Achillea spp. are observed in the recent years, with Achillea millefolium L. being the most studied and used representative of the genus. There is strong scientific evidence showing that also other yarrow species might be rich sources of effective cosmetic ingredients, with skin calming and rejuvenating properties, wound healing activity, and anti-inflammatory potential. Several Achillea extracts and isolated compounds were also shown to display significant tyrosinase inhibitory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties and thus are interesting candidates for active ingredients of medications and cosmetic products protecting the skin from the harmful impact of environmental stressors. The aim of this review is to collect the current information on the composition and cosmeceutical significance of different Achillea species.

Rosa platyacantha Schrenk from Kazakhstan-Natural Source of Bioactive Compounds with Cosmetic Significance.

Plants belonging to the Rosa genus are known for their high content of bioactive molecules and broad spectrum of healing and cosmetic activities. Rosa platyacantha Schrenk is a wild-type species abundant in the mountainous regions of Kazakhstan. The phytochemical composition as well as the bioactivity of R. platyacantha extracts have not been fully investigated to date. In this study, various parts of R.platyacantha plant, collected in Almaty region, Kazakhstan, were used to prepare five hydroalcoholic extracts (R1-R5). The extracts were compared for the content of phytochemicals and selected biological activities, which are important for the potential cosmetic application of R. platyacantha. Extract R3, prepared from flower buds, showed the most significant antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential, decreasing the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of tyrosinase. Extract R3 showed also collagenase inhibitory activity and cytotoxicity against human melanoma cells A375, being less cytotoxic for noncancerous skin keratinocytes HaCaT. Analysis of fractions E and F, obtained from R3 extracts, revealed that quercetin, kaempferol, rutin, and their derivatives are more likely responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory properties of R. platyacantha extracts.

Identification of Mushroom and Murine Tyrosinase Inhibitors from Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Extract.

Growing scientific evidence indicates that Achillea biebersteinii is a valuable source of active ingredients with potential cosmetic applications. However, the data on its composition and pharmacological properties are still insufficient. This study aims to optimize the extraction procedure of the plant material, evaluate its phytochemical composition, and compare anti-tyrosinase potential of A. biebersteinii extracts obtained by various methods. In order to identify compounds responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. biebersteinii, the most active anti-tyrosinase extract was fractionated by column chromatography. The fractions were examined for their skin lightening potential by mushroom and murine tyrosinase inhibitory assays and melanin release assay. HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS/MS analysis of the total extract revealed the presence of several phenolic acids, flavonoids, flavonoid glucosides, and carboxylic acid. Among them, fraxetin-8-O-glucoside, quercetin-O-glucopyranose, schaftoside/isoschaftoside, gmelinin B, 1,3-dicaffeoylquinic acid (1,3-DCQA), and ferulic acid were found in the fractions with the highest skin lightening potential. Based on obtained qualitative and quantitative analysis of the fractions, it was assumed that the caffeoylquinic acid derivatives and dicaffeoylquinic acid derivatives are more likely responsible for mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. biebersteinii extracts and fractions. Ferulic acid was proposed as the most active murine tyrosinase inhibitor, responsible also for the reduced melanin release from B16F10 murine melanoma cells.

Immunomodulatory Effects of Diterpenes and Their Derivatives Through NLRP3 Inflammasome Pathway: A Review.

Nucleotide-binding oligomerization domain-like receptor family pyrin domain-containing protein (NLRP) inflammasomes are involved in the molecular pathogenesis of many diseases and disorders. Among NLRPs, the NLRP3 (in humans encoded by the NLRP3 gene) is expressed predominantly in macrophages as a component of the inflammasome and is associated with many diseases, including gout, type 2 diabetes, multiple sclerosis, atherosclerosis, and neurological diseases and disorders. Diterpenes containing repeated isoprenoid units in their structure are a member of some essential oils that possess diverse biological activities and are becoming a landmark in the field of drug discovery and development. This review sketches a current scenario of diterpenes or their derivatives acting through NLRPs, especially NLRP3-associated pathways with anti-inflammatory effects. For this, a literature survey on the subject has been undertaken using a number of known databases with specific keywords. Findings from the aforementioned databases suggest that diterpenes and their derivatives can exert anti-inflammatory effects via NLRPs-related pathways. Andrographolide, triptolide, kaurenoic acid, carnosic acid, oridonin, teuvincenone F, and some derivatives of tanshinone IIA and phorbol have been found to act through NLRP3 inflammasome pathways. In conclusion, diterpenes and their derivatives could be one of the promising compounds for the treatment of NLRP3-mediated inflammatory diseases and disorders.

Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use.

Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)-a less investigated representative of the genus-were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of water:polyethylene glycol extracts (1:1, 4:1, 6:1 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) and assayed for their biological activities. The study led to the identification of 11 metabolites from different natural product classes with the highest share corresponding to 5-caffeoylquinic acid, axillarin, coumaroylquinic acid isomers and 3-caffeoylquinic acid. The highest antiradical capacity in DPPH and ABTS scavenging assays was shown for HG 4:1 of AB and AM extracts. HG 1:1 extracts from both species inhibited monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, whereas AB HG 4:1 extract showed significant monophenolase inhibition. The highest sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for AM HG 4:1 extract, equal to 14.04 ± 0.17. The AB extracts were cytotoxic for both human keratinocytes HaCaT and A375 melanoma, however HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts were more cytotoxic for cancer than for noncancerous cells. In conclusion, AB HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts display significant potential as active cosmetic ingredients.