Topical ceramides neither enhance UVB-induced apoptosis in normal human keratinocytes nor affect viability in UVB-irradiated reconstructed human epidermis.

Ceramides are the major lipid of lamellar sheets present in intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum contributing to epidermal barrier properties. Therefore, ceramides and their analogues have been studied for barrier enhancing and water-holding properties for decades. In vitro studies have indicated cytotoxic potential for cell-permeable ceramides thereby raising the question whether topical ceramide application might contribute to UVB-induced apoptosis. Phytosphingosine, N-hexanoyl-phytosphingosine and N-stearoylphytosphingosine (ceramide III) in concentrations ≤5 µm have been used for co-stimulation with low (160 J/m(2) ) or high (600 J/m(2) ) UVB doses in subconfluent basal and confluent differentiating keratinocytes. Significantly, increased caspase-3 activity was observed in basal keratinocytes irradiated with 600 J/m(2) UVB and in differentiating keratinocytes with both UVB doses. Co-stimulation with the named ceramides did not further increase (i) caspase-3 activity and (ii) nucleosomal fragmentation in differentiating keratinocytes. Moreover, co-stimulation with 1-mm ceramides did not further affect viability/lactate dehydrogenase release in UVB-irradiated reconstructed human epidermis corroborating the safety of these ceramides.

Effects of sphingoid bases on the sphingolipidome in early keratinocyte differentiation.

Keratinocyte sphingolipids are structural elements of epidermal permeability barrier and potential regulators of epidermal functions. We tested the influence of sphingoid bases sphinganine, sphingosine and phytosphingosine on in vitro keratinocyte differentiation. Lipidomic and transcriptomic analysis after treatment emphasizes sphinganine and phytosphingosine as potent modulators of keratinocyte differentiation and lipid metabolism. Sphinganine treatment regulated differentiation and sphingolipid metabolism-related genes, and also increased all major ceramide species. Sphingosine treatment increased ceramide and phytoceramide pools without changes in dihydroceramides. Phytosphingosine treatment markedly increased phytoceramide pools without raising ceramide or dihydroceramide levels. Sphinganine treatment increased specifically very long chain ceramides essential for intact barrier function. In summary, sphingoid bases, especially sphinganine, promote differentiation and ceramide production in keratinocytes. Free sphinganine may serve as a dermatological and cosmetic agent by enhancing formation and maintenance of an intact epidermal lipid barrier, with beneficial effects for skin and hair care applications.