Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing retinol using the guideline of the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association.

Retinol is known to be effective in the treatment of sallowness, wrinkling, red blotchiness and hyperpigmented spots in aging skin. In this study, we have evaluated the anti-wrinkle effects of a new cosmetic containing retinol. An open study was performed in 30 healthy Japanese women who had wrinkles at the corners of the eyes. The tested lotion, Retin-OX+ (RoC SA, Colombes, France), was applied on wrinkles of one side of the face for 8 weeks, and not on the other site as a control. Anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated by two methods: (i) doctors' observation and photos based on the guideline of the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association; and (ii) the Robo Skin Analyzer. This lotion showed marked and moderate improvement in 34% of the subjects with a significant difference as compared with the control sites (P < 0.05). Moreover, the length and area decreased in the applied site more than the control site with a significant difference (P < 0.01). All the patients completed the study without significant adverse reactions. The tested lotion was well tolerated and may be an optional preparation for the treatment of wrinkles at the corner of the eyes.

Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide.

Niacinamide is known to have effectiveness on sallowness, wrinkling, red blotchiness and hyperpigmented spots in aging skin. In this study, we have evaluated the anti-wrinkle effects of a new cosmetic containing niacinamide. A randomized, placebo-controlled, split face study was performed in 30 healthy Japanese females who had wrinkles in the eye areas. The tested cosmetic containing 4% niacinamide was applied on wrinkles of one side for 8 weeks, and a control cosmetic without niacinamide on another site. Anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated with two methods: (i) doctors' observation and photographs based on the guideline of the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association; and (ii) average roughness of skin surface (Ra value) using skin replica. This cosmetic showed marked and moderate improvement in 64% of the subjects with a significant difference as compared with the control site (P < 0.001). Wrinkle grades in the tested area significantly reduced more than pre-application (P < 0.001) and the control (P < 0.001). Reduction in Ra value on the tested area was more than pre-application (P < 0.01) and the control site (P < 0.05) with significant differences. Only one subject stopped the study with minimal irritation. These results indicated that the tested lotion was well tolerated and may be an optional preparation for the treatment of wrinkles in the eye areas.

An evaluation of whitening effect of an intense pulsed light source using computer analysis of the video-captured digital image.

Recently, we reported an evaluation method with computer analysis of the video-captured digital image for whitening effects of cosmetics. In this study we have developed a new evaluation method of change of skin color using Robo Skin Analyzer that analyzes digital-camera-captured image. We have also investigated whitening effects of an intense pulsed light (IPL), NatuLight (LUMENIS, Tokyo), on skin color of the face in 27 Japanese female patients. Measurement was performed after three to five treatments. Whitening effects were evaluated in pigmentary and normal areas. IPL showed improvement in Value data (lightness) of the pigmentary and normal areas. In 16 (59%) of 27 patients IPL had whitening effects on the pigmentary lesions. In 18 (66%) of 27 patients IPL also demonstrated whitening effects on normal skin. Fourteen patients (52%) showed whitening effects both on pigmentary and normal areas. These results indicated that IPL therapy may have a whitening effect both on pigmentary and normal areas of the face. This novel method may be useful to evaluate the whitening effect of phototherapy and color change of cutaneous disorders.

Clinical effectiveness of a novel intense pulsed light source on facial pigmentary lesions.

Intense pulsed light (IPL) therapy improves various clinical symptoms of photoaging skin. In this study we have investigated clinical effects of a novel IPL, Lumenis One (LUMENIS, Tokyo) on facial pigmentary lesions in 18 Japanese female patients. Measurement was performed after 3-5 treatments. IPL showed marked and slight improvements in 28 and 39%, respectively. The data of melanin index demonstrated the improvement after IPL therapy. These results indicated that IPL therapy using Lumenis One may be useful to treat solar lentigines and ephelides on the face.

New approach to the evaluation of skin color of pigmentary lesions using Skin Tone Color Scale.

Objective methods of measuring skin color are needed to evaluate pigmentary lesions quantitatively. We have developed a new method of measuring skin color using a plastic bar system called the Skin Tone Color Scale based on Munsell's color space system. We have also evaluated the effectiveness of various therapies using this measurement system. Our system was designed to measure skin color in normal skin, pigmentary lesions of solar lentigo, chloasma and ephelides, and postinflammatory pigmentation. Moreover, effectiveness of various therapies for these pigmentary lesions was evaluated. The evaluations made with this system were closely related to physician assessment. This method may be useful in measuring of skin color and evaluating the effectiveness of therapies for pigmentary diseases.