Topically applied L-carnitine effectively reduces sebum secretion in human skin.

BACKGROUND: Oily skin condition is caused by an excessive sebaceous gland activity, resulting in an overproduction of sebum, giving the skin an undesired shiny, oily appearance. AIMS: To identify an active substance that reduces sebum production in human sebaceous glands by regulating fat metabolism in a natural way. PATIENTS/METHODS: The effects of L-carnitine on ß-oxidation and intracellular lipid content were investigated in vitro using the human sebaceous cell line SZ95. Penetration experiments utilizing pig skin as a model system were performed with a cosmetic formulation containing radioactively labeled L-carnitine. To determine the in vivo effects, a vehicle-controlled, randomized study was carried out using a cosmetic formulation containing 2%l-carnitine for 3 weeks. Sebum production was investigated utilizing the lipid-absorbent Sebutape(®). RESULTS: SZ95 cells treated with 0.5% or 1% L-carnitine demonstrated a significant concentration-dependent increase in ß-oxidation compared to control cells. Following the treatment with L-carnitine, intracellular lipid concentrations decreased significantly in a dose-dependent manner compared with untreated control cells. In skin penetration experiments, topically applied L-carnitine reached the dermis. In addition, topical in vivo application of a formulation containing 2% L-carnitine for 3 weeks significantly decreased the sebum secretion rate compared to the treatment with vehicle. CONCLUSIONS: Our results show that the treatment of human sebocytes with L-carnitine significantly augments ß-oxidation and significantly decreases intracellular lipid content in human sebocytes. Topically applied L-carnitine is bioavailable and leads to a significant sebum reduction in vivo. In conclusion, L-carnitine represents a valuable compound, produced naturally within the body, for the topical treatment of oily skin in humans.

Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjects.

BACKGROUND: The dermal extracellular matrix provides stability and structure to the skin. With increasing age, however, its major component collagen is subject to degeneration, resulting in a gradual decline in skin elasticity and progression of wrinkle formation. Previous studies suggest that the reduction in cellular energy contributes to the diminished synthesis of cutaneous collagen during aging. AIMS: To investigate the potential of topically applied creatine to improve the clinical signs of skin aging by stimulating dermal collagen synthesis in vitro and in vivo. PATIENTS/METHODS: Penetration experiments were performed with a pig skin ex vivo model. Effects of creatine on dermal collagen gene expression and procollagen synthesis were studied in vitro using cultured fibroblast-populated collagen gels. In a single-center, controlled study, 43 male Caucasians applied a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana extract, and glycerol to determine its influence on facial topometric features. RESULTS: Cultured human dermal fibroblasts supplemented with creatine displayed a stimulation of collagen synthesis relative to untreated control cells both on the gene expression and at the protein level. In skin penetration experiments, topically applied creatine rapidly reached the dermis. In addition, topical in vivo application of a creatine-containing formulation for 6 weeks significantly reduced the sagging cheek intensity in the jowl area as compared to baseline. This result was confirmed by clinical live scoring, which also demonstrated a significant reduction in crow's feet wrinkles and wrinkles under the eyes. CONCLUSIONS: In summary, creatine represents a beneficial active ingredient for topical use in the prevention and treatment of human skin aging.

Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivo.

BACKGROUND: The decrease in firmness is a hallmark of skin aging. Accelerated by chronic sun exposure, fundamental changes occur within the dermal extracellular matrix over the years, mainly impairing the collagenous network. AIMS: Based on the qualitative and quantitative assessment of skin firmness, in vitro and in vivo studies were carried out to elucidate the effects of topical folic acid and creatine to counteract this age-dependent reduction in the amount of collagen. PATIENTS/METHODS: Topical application of a commercially available formulation containing folic acid and creatine was performed to study effects on skin firmness in vivo using cutometric analysis. Imaging and quantification of collagen density were carried out using multiphoton laser scanning microscopy (MPLSM). To investigate the effects of these compounds on collagen gene expression, procollagen synthesis, and collagen fibril organization, complementary in vitro studies on cultured fibroblast-populated collagen gels were carried out. RESULTS: The underlying structural changes in the collagen network of young and aged sun-exposed facial skin in vivo were visualized by MPLSM. Topical application of a folic acid- and creatine-containing formulation significantly improved firmness of mature skin in vivo. Treatment of fibroblast-populated dermal equivalents with folic acid and creatine increased collagen gene expression and procollagen levels and improved collagen fiber density, suggesting that the in vivo effects are based on the overall improvement of the collagen metabolism. CONCLUSIONS: Employing MPLSM, dermal changes occurring in photo-aged human skin were visualized in an unprecedented manner and correlated to a loss of firmness. Treatment of aged skin with a topical formulation containing folic acid and creatine counteracted this age-dependent decline by exerting sustained effects on collagen metabolism. Our results support previous findings on the efficacy of these actives.

Validation of the body scanner as a measuring tool for a rapid quantification of body shape.

BACKGROUND: Currently, the body scanner, using laser-triangulation, is one of the most precise measuring tools for the rapid quantification of body shape. The VITUS body scanner is a laser-based system based on a principle called triangulation and the scan produced describes the distance to a surface at each point in the picture. The body scanner has multiple applications such as determining body measurements for tailoring, anthropometric investigations and cosmetic surgery. There are also intensive investigations into the effect of weight gain and thus body shape on health risks. In order to be of value, the body scanner needs to generate precise, accurate and reproducible data. AIMS: To determine the precision and reproducibility of the VITUS XXL 3D body scanner. METHODS: The measurements of geometric shapes (cones, columns) and human body parts (mid-thigh) were compared using a measuring tape and the body scanner. RESULTS: The precision of the measurements of the circumferences of a truncated cone and a column was within 1 mm of the actual values (0.29%). The reproducibility of the measurements was very good. The standard deviation in the measurement of a truncated cone was only 0.13% of the actual value. Likewise, the standard deviation of the thigh measurement of 12 human subjects was <1%. CONCLUSION: These results show that the body scanner can accurately, precisely and reproducibly measure the circumference of objects and human body parts.

A novel treatment option for photoaged skin.

BACKGROUND: DNA damage as a result of ultraviolet (UV) exposure plays an important role in the progression of cutaneous aging. Both folic acid and creatine have been linked to the process of DNA protection and repair. AIMS: This study aims to investigate the effects of a commercially available folic acid- and creatine-containing formulation to fight the clinical signs of premature skin aging. PATIENTS/METHODS: Both in vitro and in vivo home-in-use studies using a folic acid- and creatine-containing formulation were performed aiming to elucidate the efficacy in terms of improvement of skin regeneration, protection from UV-induced DNA damage (Comet assay), reduction of wrinkle volume, and skin visco-elasticity. Furthermore, clinical evaluation and photography were carried out to determine the improvement of clinically graded parameters after treatment. RESULTS: Cultured full-thickness epidermal skin models supplemented with folic acid and creatine after epithelial perturbation showed an accelerated skin regeneration compared to untreated control models. Similarly, application of a folic acid- and creatine-containing formulation significantly improved epidermal turnover in vivo as evidenced by smaller corneocytes derived from the treated sites relative to the vehicle-treated sides. In addition, topical in vivo application of this formulation significantly protected from UV-induced DNA lesions, increased skin firmness, and reduced wrinkle volume compared to untreated control areas. Expert grading confirmed a significant decrease of fine and coarse wrinkles in the periocular region as well as overall wrinkles, tactile roughness, and laxity. CONCLUSIONS: Taken together, these results show that the combination of folic acid and creatine significantly accelerates epidermal skin regeneration in vitro and in vivo. Together with the finding of improved biomechanical skin properties, we conclude that the described topical formulation provides an effective treatment option for (photo)-aged skin.

Natural Arctium lappa fruit extract improves the clinical signs of aging skin.

BACKGROUND: Subclinical, chronic tissue inflammation involving the generation of cytokines (e.g., interleukin-6 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha) might contribute to the cutaneous aging process. AIMS: This study aims to screen for an active ingredient with anti-inflammatory (i.e., reduction of interleukin-6 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha) and matrix-stimulating efficacy which improves the clinical signs of skin aging in vivo. PATIENTS/METHODS: In vitro studies with pure Arctiin were performed investigating the inhibition of cytokine induction and stimulation of collagen neo-synthesis. In vivo home-in-use studies using an Arctium lappa fruit extract-containing formulation were carried out to determine procollagen and hyaluronan synthesis, hyaluronan synthase-2 gene expression, and reduction of wrinkle volume after treatment. RESULTS: In vitro studies on human dermal fibroblasts and monocyte-derived dendritic cells supplemented with pure Arctiin showed relative to untreated control cells a stimulation of collagen synthesis and a decrease in interleukin-6 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha concentration, respectively. In addition, topical in vivo application of an A. lappa fruit extract-containing formulation for 12 weeks significantly stimulated procollagen synthesis and increased hyaluronan synthase-2 expression as well as hyaluronan levels compared to vehicle-treated control areas. Similarly, after a 4-week treatment with an A. lappa fruit extract-containing formulation, wrinkle volume in the crow's feet area was significantly reduced as compared to treatment with the vehicle. CONCLUSIONS: Our data show that topical treatment with a natural A. lappa fruit extract significantly improves the metabolism of the dermal extracellular matrix and leads to a visible wrinkle reduction in vivo. In conclusion, A. lappa fruit extract represents a targeted means to regenerate dermal structures and, thus, offers an effective treatment option for mature skin.

Novel aspects of intrinsic and extrinsic aging of human skin: beneficial effects of soy extract.

Biochemical and structural changes of the dermal connective tissue substantially contribute to the phenotype of aging skin. To study connective tissue metabolism with respect to ultraviolet (UV) exposure, we performed an in vitro (human dermal fibroblasts) and an in vivo complementary DNA array study in combination with protein analysis in young and old volunteers. Several genes of the collagen metabolism such as Collagen I, III and VI as well as heat shock protein 47 and matrix metalloproteinase-1 are expressed differentially, indicating UV-mediated effects on collagen expression, processing and degradation. In particular, Collagen I is time and age dependently reduced after a single UV exposure in human skin in vivo. Moreover, older subjects display a lower baseline level and a shorter UV-mediated increase in hyaluronan (HA) levels. To counteract these age-dependent changes, cultured fibroblasts were treated with a specific soy extract. This treatment resulted in increased collagen and HA synthesis. In a placebo-controlled in vivo study, topical application of an isoflavone-containing emulsion significantly enhanced the number of dermal papillae per area after 2 weeks. Because the flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction is the most reproducible structural change in aged skin, this soy extract appears to rejuvenate the structure of mature skin.

Topically applied vitamin C increases the density of dermal papillae in aged human skin.

BACKGROUND: The influence of ageing on the density of the functional entities of the papillae containing nutritive capillaries, here in terms as the papillary index, and the effect of topically applied vitamin C were investigated by confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) in vivo. METHODS: The age dependency of the papillary index was determined by CLSM on 3 different age groups. Additionally, we determined the effect of a topical cream containing 3% vitamin C against the vehicle alone using daily applications for four months on the volar forearm of 33 women. RESULTS: There were significant decreases in the papillary index showing a clear dependency on age. Topical vitamin C resulted in a significant increase of the density of dermal papillae from 4 weeks onward compared to its vehicle. Reproducibility was determined in repeated studies. CONCLUSIONS: Vitamin C has the potential to enhance the density of dermal papillae, perhaps through the mechanism of angiogenesis. Topical vitamin C may have therapeutical effects for partial corrections of the regressive structural changes associated with the aging process.