Use of the tape stripping technique for directly quantifying esterase activities in human stratum corneum.

The enzymes secreted in the intercellular spaces of stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis, are thought to be involved in normal desquamation and skin barrier function. Their activity can barely be measured due to the difficulty in isolating enough biological material. Human SC layers were obtained from the forearm of healthy volunteers by the tape stripping technique. Assays for esterase activities were carried out in specially designed plates which contained the SC blotted on tape strips, using various fluorescent methylumbelliferone acyl esters as substrates. Triacylglycerol hydrolase activities were also studied by this method. By using radiolabeled triolein and fluorescent 4-methylumbelliferyl 7-oleate as substrates, true lipase activities could be detected and quantitated in SC at pH 5.5 and 7.5. These activities were shown to be strongly inhibited by tetrahydrolipstatin while this was not the case with 4-methylumbelliferyl 7-heptanoate. The method described here combines the painless tape stripping technique with a sensitive plate assay analysis. Since the whole process needs little manipulation, this method can permit rapid quantitation of multiple enzyme activities from a single strip. Therefore, it will permit the study of the involvement of enzyme activities in epidermis aging and skin pathologies.

Organic reagent interaction with hair spatially characterized by infrared microspectroscopy using synchrotron radiation.

The penetration of chemical reagents through human hair after bleaching has been spatially characterized using infrared microspectroscopy (IMS) with a synchrotron source. Chemical imaging of hair cross sections before and after bleaching was achieved with high contrast, using the peptide and lipid mid-infrared vibrational bands which are characteristic of hair. The ability to make images using functional groups as a contrast mechanism can be applied to studies of other chemical groups, if present, in the structure of the hair. As an example we show how the penetration of an organic active reagent in the hair structure can be quantified with a spatial resolution of few microns. These results demonstrate that synchrotron IMS is a powerful tool for characterizing chemical interactions of hair samples with specific cosmetic materials.