Ginsenoside Re prevents 3-methyladenine-induced catagen phase acceleration by regulating Wnt/ß-catenin signaling in human dermal papilla cells.

Background: The human hair follicle undergoes cyclic phases-anagen, catagen, and telogen-throughout its lifetime. This cyclic transition has been studied as a target for treating hair loss. Recently, correlation between the inhibition of autophagy and acceleration of the catagen phase in human hair follicles was investigated. However, the role of autophagy in human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs), which is involved in the development and growth of hair follicles, is not known. We hypothesized that acceleration of hair catagen phase upon inhibition of autophagy is due to the downregulation of Wnt/ß-catenin signaling in hDPCs, and that components of Panax ginseng extract can increase the autophagic flux in hDPCs. Methods: We generated an autophagy-inhibited condition using 3-methyladenine (3-MA), a specific autophagy inhibitor, and investigated the regulation of Wnt/ß-catenin signaling using the luciferase reporter assay, qRT-PCR, and western blot analysis. In addition, cells were cotreated with ginsenoside Re and 3-MA and their roles in inhibiting autophagosome formation were investigated. Results: We found that the unstimulated anagen phase dermal papilla region expressed the autophagy marker, LC3. Transcription of Wnt-related genes and nuclear translocation of ß-catenin were reduced after treatment of hDPCs with 3-MA. In addition, treatment with the combination of ginsenoside Re and 3-MA changed the Wnt activity and hair cycle by restoring autophagy. Conclusions: Our results suggest that autophagy inhibition in hDPCs accelerates the catagen phase by downregulating Wnt/ß-catenin signaling. Furthermore, ginsenoside Re, which increased autophagy in hDPCs, could be useful for reducing hair loss caused by abnormal inhibition of autophagy.

Bioconversion of BIOGF1K, a compound-K-rich fraction from ginseng root and its effect on epidermal barrier function.

BIOGF1K, the ginseng root-based and hydrolyzed ginsenoside-rich fraction, is known to improve skin damage, but there are rare studies on the kinetic of ginsenosides in the epidermis and their effects on epidermal barrier function. The current study investigated the effect of BIOGF1K on epidermal barrier function and its kinetics on epidermal transport. HPLC and LC/MS were used to verify the ginsenosides and the metabolites of BIOGF1K. Human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and epidermis-dermis artificial skin were treated with BIOGF1K and their metabolites were analyzed by HPLC and LC/MS. The epidermal barrier function was evaluated by transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER). In BIOGF1K, ginsenoside Rg1, Rd, F1, F2, compound Mc, compound Y (CY), and compound K (CK) were detected and CK and CY were the most and second abundant ginsenosides. TEER of HaCaT with 100 and 200 µg/mL BIOGF1K treatment was significantly higher than the control during 600 min of incubation. CK was permeated to the epidermis in a time-dependent manner and its maximum transported rate was observed at 600 min. In the case of artificial skin, CY and CK were permeated to the epidermis-dermis skin as time-dependent. Also, 24 h after treatment of CY, CK was detected as 19.59% of CY. It was proposed that CY was hydrolyzed into CK while permeating the epidermis. Results from the current study suggest that bioconversion of BIOGF1K rich in CK effectively enhances epidermal barrier function and it could be a useful cosmeceutical to exhibit its functionality to the skin.

Bioconversion of retinol and its cell barrier function in human immortalized keratinocytes cells and artificial epidermis-dermis skin.

The current study aimed to characterize cellular uptake and bioconversion of retinol in fully differentiated human immortalized keratinocytes cells (HaCaT) and artificial skin by measuring the cell integrity of skin barriers, time-dependent transport of retinol, and bioconversion to its metabolites. The expression of epidermal differentiation related genes including Keratin 1 (KRT1), Keratin 10 (KRT10), and Involucrin (IVL) significantly increased in differentiated HaCaT. TEER of HaCaT did not decrease after incubating retinol compared to control (p > 0.05), indicating that retinol tends to maintain strength and integrity of epidermal barrier. TEER of artificial skin decreased treatment of retinol for 2 h, but it was recovered after 4 h. During retinol transport, metabolite was eluted at 13.37 and 13.82 min of basal medium of both keratinocytes and artificial skin, which was identified as retinoic acid by product ion of m/z 283.47. Retinol appeared to be accumulated in keratinocytes, but its uptake tends to be reduced in a time-dependent manner. Retinoic acid converted from retinol in keratinocytes was time dependently transported. In case of artificial skin, retinol was mostly found in apical at initial incubation time, but it was reduced during incubation for 24 h. Retinoic acid was time-dependently found in a basal, which was converted via epidermis-dermis. Results from the current study suggest that topical application of retinol to human skin optimal concentration and time exposure could maintain epidermal barrier function and promote skin function due to its remarkable bioconversion to retinoic acid in the epidermis-dermis.

Panax ginseng extract antagonizes the effect of DKK­1-induced catagen-like changes of hair follicles.

It is well known that Panax ginseng (PG) has various pharmacological effects such as anti-aging and anti-inflammation. In a previous study, the authors identified that PG extract induced hair growth by means of a mechanism similar to that of minoxidil. In the present study, the inhibitory effect of PG extract on Dickkopf-1 (DKK-1)-induced catagen-like changes in hair follicles (HFs) was investigated in addition to the underlying mechanism of action. The effects of PG extract on cell proliferation, anti-apoptotic effect, and hair growth were observed using cultured outer root sheath (ORS) keratinocytes and human HFs with or without DKK-1 treatment. The PG extract significantly stimulated proliferation and inhibited apoptosis, respectively, in ORS keratinocytes. PG extract treatment affected the expression of apoptosis-related genes Bcl-2 and Bax. DKK-1 inhibited hair growth, and PG extract dramatically reversed the effect of DKK-1 on ex vivo human hair organ culture. PG extract antagonizes DKK-1-induced catagen-like changes, in part, through the regulation of apoptosis-related gene expression in HFs. These findings suggested that PG extract may reduce hair loss despite the presence of DKK-1, a strong catagen inducer via apoptosis.

Mitochondrial dynamics regulate melanogenesis through proteasomal degradation of MITF via ROS-ERK activation.

Mitochondrial dynamics control mitochondrial functions as well as their morphology. However, the role of mitochondrial dynamics in melanogenesis is largely unknown. Here, we show that mitochondrial dynamics regulate melanogenesis by modulating the ROS-ERK signaling pathway. Genetic and chemical inhibition of Drp1, a mitochondrial fission protein, increased melanin production and mitochondrial elongation in melanocytes and melanoma cells. In contrast, down-regulation of OPA1, a mitochondria fusion regulator, suppressed melanogensis but induced massive mitochondrial fragmentation in hyperpigmented cells. Consistently, treatment with CCCP, a mitochondrial fission chemical inducer, also efficiently repressed melanogenesis. Furthermore, we found that ROS production and ERK phosphorylation were increased in cells with fragmented mitochondria. And inhibition of ROS or ERK suppressed the antimelanogenic effect of mitochondrial fission in α-MSH-treated cells. In addition, the activation of ROS-ERK pathway by mitochondrial fission induced phosphorylation of serine73 on MITF accelerating its proteasomal degradation. In conclusion, mitochondrial dynamics may regulate melanogenesis by modulating ROS-ERK signaling pathway.

Identification of sake extract as a new anti-melanogenic ingredient by in vitro and clinical trials.

Overproduction of melanin is the cause of skin hyperpigmentation, which is related to several skin diseases and cosmetic concerns. Sake is a Japanese alcoholic beverage produced from rice and water by fermentation, but is little known for its effect on melanogenesis. To identify the effect of sake extract on melanin synthesis, a melanin assay was performed in melan-A murine melanocytes. Sake extract treatment significantly inhibited melanin production in a dose-dependent manner, and tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme of melanogenesis, decreased significantly at the protein level. Further investigations were performed with multiple assay systems; a sake extract reduced melanin production in melan-A/SP-1 murine cell co-culture, and also in MelanoDerm, a skin equivalent model of human keratinocytes-melanocytes. Finally, subjects were treated with a formula containing the sake extract. Topical application of the sake extract product improved skin lightness (L*) significantly within 7 days. We identified sake extract as a new anti-melanogenic ingredient through in vitro and in vivo experiments. These results suggest that a sake extract can be used to improve skin hyperpigmentation.

Activation of transient receptor potential melastatin 8 reduces ultraviolet B-induced prostaglandin E2 production in keratinocytes.

Transient receptor potential melastatin 8 (TRPM8) is a member of the TRP family, and is activated at temperatures below 22°C, or by cooling compounds such as menthol. In this study, it was found that a new role of TRPM8 activation on prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), an inflammatory cytokine and dendritogenesis stimulator of normal human melanocytes. Normal human keratinocytes were pretreated with menthol or incubated at 22°C for TRPM8 activation before ultraviolet (UV)-B irradiation. To examine the specificity between TRPM8 activation and PGE2 release, we inhibited TRPM8 with the antagonist (capsazepine), or introduced TRPM8 siRNA for a gene silencing experiment. UV-B irradiation significantly induced PGE2 release in normal human keratinocytes. Interestingly, activation of TRPM8 at 22°C or with menthol inhibited UV-B-induced PGE2 release. The effect of the TRPM8 agonist was completely blocked by pretreatment with the TRPM8 antagonist, capsazepine. When TRPM8 expression was suppressed by siRNA, UV-B irradiation still upregulated PGE2 in keratinocytes, but pretreatment of menthol or low temperature did not inhibit UV-B-induced PGE2. In conclusion, the activation of TRPM8 inhibits UV-B-induced PGE2 production in keratinocytes, and the activation of TRPM8 may reduce inflammatory responses in skin.

Alstonia scholaris R. Br. Significantly Inhibits Retinoid-Induced Skin Irritation In Vitro and In Vivo.

Topical retinoids inhibit matrix metalloproteinases and accelerate collagen synthesis, thereby triggering antiaging effects in the skin. However, topical retinoids can cause severe skin reactions, including scaling, erythema, papules, and inflammation. The present study demonstrates that the ethanolic bark extract of Alstonia scholaris R. Br. can significantly inhibit all-trans retinoic acid-induced inflammation in human HaCat keratinocyte cells. Furthermore, two representative retinoid-induced proinflammatory cytokines, monocyte chemoattractant protein-1 and interleukin-8, were significantly suppressed by A. scholaris extract (by 82.1% and 26.3% at 100 ppm, and dose-dependently across the tested concentrations) in vitro. In a cumulative irritation patch test, A. scholaris extract decreased retinol-induced skin irritation, while strengthening the ability of retinoids to inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression, which is strongly associated with aging effects. These results suggest that A. scholaris is a promising compound that may increase the antiaging function of retinoids while reducing their ability to cause skin irritation.

Effects of ortho-dihydroxyisoflavone derivatives from Korean fermented soybean paste on melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells and human skin equivalents.

In this study we investigated the inhibitory effects and possible mechanisms of action of 8'-hydroxydaidzein and 3'-hydroxydaidzein, two ortho-dihydroxyisoflavone derivatives from Korean fermented soybean paste, on melanogenesis in B16 murine melanoma cells. The two hydroxydaidzeins reduced melanin synthesis comparably to treatment with kojic acid, a proven whitening agent, in B16 melanoma cells. Furthermore, when in vitro human skin equivalents were treated with the hydroxydaidzeins, the levels of melanogenesis were significantly reduced relative to a kojic acid control. The RT-PCR results demonstrated that depigmentation was due to transcriptional repression of several melanogenesis genes, including microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), by the hydroxydaidzeins. The immunoblotting results confirmed that diminution of MITF expression subsequently decreased expression of tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related proteins 1 and 2. Cumulatively, these results suggest that hydroxydaidzeins would be potent attenuators of melanin synthesis as well as effective inhibitors of hyperpigmentation in human skin.

Amentoflavone inhibits UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression through the modulation of AP-1 components in normal human fibroblasts.

Amentoflavone is a well-known biflavonoid that has diverse biological effects. Previously, we reported that amentoflavone suppressed UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression in normal human fibroblasts (NHF). We investigated the effects of amentoflavone on UVB-induced MMP-1 expression in order to elucidate its mode of action. NHF were treated with amentoflavone for indicated times and doses with UVB irradiation. The expressions of MMP-1 gene and protein were determined by RT-PCR and ELISA, respectively. MAP kinase phosphorylation and the expression of c-Fos protein were determined by Western blot. The treatment of amentoflavone completely blocked the upregulation of MMP-1 which is induced by UVB irradiation in HaCaT-NHF co-culture in a dose-dependent manner as well as in NHF monoculture. Also, amentoflavone inhibited UVB-induced activation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) without changing total ERK protein level, and did not affect p38 or JNK activation. Finally, AP-1 transcription factor components, phospho-c-Jun and c-Fos protein expressions were decreased by amentoflavone treatment. The major finding of this study shows that amentoflavone inhibits intracellular cell signaling ERK pathway leading to the prevention of MMP-1 expression in human skin fibroblasts. Therefore, these results strongly suggest that amentoflavone should be investigated as a potential agent for the prevention and the treatment of skin photoaging.