Effects and Mode of Action of Oleic Acid and Tween 80 on Skin Permeation of Disulfiram.

Oral disulfiram (DSF) has been used clinically for alcohol dependence and recently has been found to have antitumor activity. A transdermal delivery system would be useful for maintaining drug concentration and reducing the frequency of administration of DSF for cancer treatment. Penetrating the stratum corneum (SC) barrier is a challenge to the transdermal delivery of DSF. Therefore, we investigated the promoting effects and mechanism of action of the combination of oleic acid (OA) and Tween 80 on the skin permeation of DSF. Hairless mouse skin was exposed to OA and Tween 80, combined in various ratios (1 : 0, 2 : 1, 1 : 1, 1 : 2, and 0 : 1). A permeation experiment was performed, and total internal reflection IR spectroscopic measurements, differential scanning calorimetry, and synchrotron radiation X-ray diffraction measurements were taken of the SC with each applied formulation. The combination of OA and Tween 80 further enhanced the absorption-promoting effect of DSF, compared with individual application. The peak of the CH2 inverse symmetric stretching vibration near the skin surface temperature was shifted by a high frequency due to the application of OA, and DSF solubility increased in response to Tween 80. We believe that the increased fluidity of the intercellular lipids due to OA and the increased solubility of DSF due to Tween 80 promoted the absorption of DSF. Our study clarifies the detailed mechanism of action of the skin permeation and promoting effect of DSF through the combined use of OA and Tween 80, contributing to the development of a transdermal preparation of DSF.

Distribution of Domains Formed by Lateral Packing of Intercellular Lipid in the Stratum Corneum.

Intercellular lipids fill the interstices of corneocytes and serve a barrier function. The amount of transdermal water evaporation varies depending on the packing structure of intercellular lipids, as this structure is important for maintaining barrier efficacy. This packing structure consists of a mixture of crystals (orthorhombic and hexagonal) and liquid crystals (fluid phase), and the proportion of these phases is thought to affect barrier function. However, there have been no methods to visualize the actual distribution of the domains formed by packing structure in intercellular lipids. In this study, the planar distribution of intercellular lipid structures was determined using focal plane array (FPA)-based Fourier transform (FT) IR imaging analysis of stratum corneum cell units obtained by grid stripping. The lipid composition of ceramides was revealed by electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (ESI-MS/MS)-based shotgun lipidomics. The distribution of domains formed by packing structures and the lipid composition of ceramides was compared in skin with high- or low-transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The orthorhombic proportion was lower in high-TEWL skin than in low-TEWL skin. ESI-MS/MS-based shotgun lipidomics analysis showed that the alpha-hydroxyceramide content in the low- and high-TEWL groups differed regarding the distribution of fatty acid chain lengths. The evaluation of stratum corneum cell units using FPA-based FTIR imaging is an innovative technology that can visualize the distribution of domains formed by intercellular lipid-packing structures. Increased proportions of alpha-hydroxyceramide subclasses such as alpha-hydroxy-sphingosine ceramide and alpha-hydroxy-phytosphingosine ceramide were associated with a reduced proportion of the orthorhombic packing structure domain.

Amino Acids and Their N-Acetylated Derivatives Maintain the Skin's Barrier Function.

The hydrocarbon-chain packing structure of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC) is critical to the skin's barrier function. We previously found that formation of V-shaped ceramide reduces the barrier function of skin. There are few agents, apart from ceramides and fatty acids that can improve the orthorhombic packing (Orth) ratio of the intercellular lipid packing structure. In this study, we investigated agents that directly increase the Orth ratio. We selected an intercellular lipid model consisting of ceramide, cholesterol, and palmitic acid and performed differential scanning calorimetry. We focused on natural moisturizing factor components in the SC, and therefore investigated amino acids and their derivatives. The results of our intercellular lipid model-based study indicate that N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline (AHYP), remarkably, maintains the lamellar structure. We verified the effect of AHYP on the lamellar structure and hydrocarbon chain packing structure of intercellular lipids using time-resolved X-ray diffraction measurements of human SC. We also determined the direct physicochemical effects of AHYP on the Orth ratio of the hydrocarbon-chain packing structure. Hence, the results of our human SC study suggest that AHYP preserves skin barrier function by maintaining the hydrocarbon-chain packing structure of intercellular lipids via electrostatic repulsion. These findings will facilitate the development of skincare formulation that can maintain the skin's barrier function.

Linoleic acid and squalene are oxidized by discrete oxidation mechanisms in human sebum.

Previous studies suggest that squalene (SQ) in sebum is oxidized by a photooxidation mechanism (i.e., singlet oxygen oxidation) to create SQ hydroperoxide (SQOOH), a compound that causes adverse skin conditions. However, oxidation of other lipids in sebum, such as linoleic acid (LA), has not been fully understood. Elucidating their oxidation, especially its mechanisms, may lead to a further understanding of the relationship between sebum oxidation and skin conditions. In this study, using HPLC-MS/MS, we aimed to detect LA hydroperoxide (LAOOH) directly from sebum and identify the oxidation mechanism of LA in sebum through analysis of LAOOH isomers. We developed extraction and HPLC-MS/MS analysis conditions that can sufficiently quantify each LAOOH isomer in sebum. Using this method, LAOOH was detected in samples from healthy individuals, demonstrating the presence of LAOOH in human sebum. Moreover, isomer analysis of LAOOH and SQOOH indicated that LA and SQ are oxidized in sebum by discrete oxidation mechanisms (LA oxidized by free radical oxidation, whereas SQ oxidized by singlet oxygen oxidation). Such results may further lead to the development of mechanism-specific ways to prevent oxidation of sebum via a selection of appropriate antioxidants, ultimately leading to the promotion of skin health.

Phase Separation in Lipid Lamellae Result from Ceramide Conformations and Lateral Packing Structure.

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum protect the living body from invasion by allergens and pathogens, and also suppresses water evaporation within the body. It is important to understand how differences in the microstructure of intercellular lipids arise. This microstructure is affected by lipid composition. Studies using intercellular lipid models have reported the formation of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities. However, the details of the packing structure characteristics of the two phases observed in these intercellular lipid models are unclear. Our previous report revealed that different short periodicity phases coexist in the N-(α-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER[ADS]), cholesterol (CHOL), and palmitic acid (PA) complex model. In this study, the characteristics of the packing structure of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities, which were observed in the intercellular lipid model (CER[ADS]/CHOL/PA) that we used previously, were adjusted for models with different lipid compositions. The characteristics of the packed and lamellar structures have been determined by temperature-scanning small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray diffraction measurements simultaneously. These differences in lamellar structure were thought to be caused by differences in ceramides (CER) conformation between the hairpin and the V-shape type. The lamellar structure of the V-shaped CER conformation has a low orthorhombic ratio. The above results suggest that an increase in the ratio of CER with the V-shaped structure causes the lamellar structure to have low orthorhombic ratio, thereby contributing to a decrease in the bilayer's barrier function.