Enzymes for dermatological use.

Skin is the ultimate barrier between body and environment and prevents water loss and penetration of pathogens and toxins. Internal and external stressors, such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR), can damage skin integrity and lead to disorders. Therefore, skin health and skin ageing are important concerns and increased research from cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors aims to improve skin conditions and provide new anti-ageing treatments. Biomolecules, compared to low molecular weight drugs and cosmetic ingredients, can offer high levels of specificity. Topically applied enzymes have been investigated to treat the adverse effects of sunlight, pollution and other external agents. Enzymes, with a diverse range of targets, present potential for dermatological use such as antioxidant enzymes, proteases and repairing enzymes. In this review, we discuss enzymes for dermatological applications and the challenges associated in this growing field.

Quality-by-Design Approach for Biological API Encapsulation into Polymersomes Using "Off-the-Shelf" Materials: a Study on L-Asparaginase.

Polymersomes are versatile nanostructures for protein delivery with hydrophilic core suitable for large biomolecule encapsulation and protective stable corona. Nonetheless, pharmaceutical products based on polymersomes are not available in the market, yet. Here, using commercially available copolymers, we investigated the encapsulation of the active pharmaceutical ingredient (API) L-asparaginase, an enzyme used to treat acute lymphoblastic leukemia, in polymersomes through a quality-by-design (QbD) approach. This allows for streamlining of processes required for improved bioavailability and pharmaceutical activity. Polymersomes were prepared by bottom-up (temperature switch) and top-down (film hydration) methods employing the diblock copolymers poly(ethylene oxide)-poly(lactic acid) (PEG45-PLA69, PEG114-PLA153, and PEG114-PLA180) and the triblock Pluronic® L-121 (poly(ethylene oxide)-poly(propylene oxide)-poly(ethylene oxide), PEG5-PPO68-PEG5). Quality Target Product Profile (QTPP), Critical Quality Attributes (CQAs), Critical Process Parameters (CPPs), and the risk assessment were discussed for the early phase of polymersome development. An Ishikawa diagram was elaborated focusing on analytical methods, raw materials, and processes for polymersome preparation and L-asparaginase encapsulation. PEG-PLA resulted in diluted polymersomes systems. Nonetheless, a much higher yield of Pluronic® L-121 polymersomes of 200 nm were produced by temperature switch, reaching 5% encapsulation efficiency. Based on these results, a risk estimation matrix was created for an initial risk assessment, which can help in the future development of other polymersome systems with biological APIs nanoencapsulated.

Another Reason for Using Caffeine in Dermocosmetics: Sunscreen Adjuvant.

The excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the main cause of skin cancer, the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the world. In this context, the development of innovative and more effective sunscreens, with bioactive compounds like caffeine, displaying antioxidant and anticancer potential, is required. This research work assessed in vitro and in vivo the efficacy and safety of topical sunscreen formulations containing caffeine as an adjuvant of the UV filters. Sunscreens were prepared with 2.5% w/w caffeine or in the absence of this compound. In order to evaluate the safety of these formulations, stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier and colorimetry were assessed in vivo in healthy subjects before and after skin treatment with the samples. The efficacy of the sunscreens was assessed in vitro, using PMMA plates and a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere; and in vivo by the determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). None of the formulations caused erythema or impaired the skin barrier function. The in vitro functional characterization showed higher SPF values for the caffeine formulation. The in vivo studies also confirmed the higher SPF value of the formulation combining caffeine with the filters, compared to the caffeine-free sample. This improvement contributed to an increase of, approximately, 25% in the in vivo anti-UVB protection. In conclusion, caffeine was well tolerated by the skin and increased the photoprotective activity, being a new alternative adjuvant in sunscreens formulation.

SPF enhancement provided by rutin in a multifunctional sunscreen.

Unprotected chronic exposure to solar radiation can contribute to premature skin cancer and sunscreens are a key factor to avoid those detrimental effects. Currently, there is a growing interest in the photoprotector and antioxidant potential of bioactive substances, such as rutin, that could increase the sun protection factor (SPF) value and, also, donate multifunctional characteristics to sunscreens. Recent in vitro findings indicated that rutin, when incorporated into sunscreens, can provide antioxidant activity and SPF improvement. However, clinical studies are fundamental to determine this activity, due to the lack of repeatability of in vitro methodology and low correlation with the in vivo data. We aimed at evaluating the clinical safety and in vivo SPF of rutin by comparing sunscreen formulations containing 0.1% (w/w) rutin, 3.0% (w/w) butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and 8.0% (w/w) octyl dimethyl PABA (2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoato) with a similar bioactive-free preparation. Additionally, skin hydration, in vitro SPF and in vitro antioxidant activity of rutin, in association with the ultraviolet (UV) filters, were investigated. The safety profile of the formulations under sun-exposed skin conditions qualified the formulas for clinical efficacy assays. 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) test confirmed the antioxidant properties of rutin, revealing around 40% increase in radical scavenging potential when the bioactive compound was present. Rutin in combination with the UV filters robustly elevated the clinical SPF around 70%, when compared with the bioactive-free formulation. To date, this is the first report in the specialized literature of an in vivo SPF measurement of a rutin-containing photoprotective preparation, supporting the claim that rutin is an effective and safe bioactive compound to be used in multifunctional sunscreens.

Antioxidant and photoprotective potential of Moringa oleifera Lam (Moringaceae) / Potencial antioxidante e fotoprotetor de Moringa oleifera Lam (Moringaceae)

Moringa oleifera Lam. (Moringaceae) is a plant with several biological activities and therapeutic properties. However, the complete knowledge about its pharmacological, biological and ecological effects, and about the active components present in each vegetable part are not still completely elucidated. This study aimed to evaluate the antioxidant and photoprotective activities of different extracts from leaves and flowers of M. oleifera. These activities were assessed through in vitro tests, DPPH radical scavenging method, iron ion chelating effect (FRAP), lipid peroxidation (TBARS), nitric oxide scavenging method and assessment of the activity against the lipid peroxidation through hemolytic method. The photoprotective activity was assessed through spectrophotometric analysis and through in vitro test with Labsphere. It was also determined the extract's phenolic content and total flavonoid through spectrophotometry and HPLC. The obtained results demonstrated that this species have components with antioxidant and photoprotective potential mainly in the extracts obtained from fresh leaves and flowers. Therefore, it was possible to verify that M. oleifera has potential to be used as source of antioxidant components with photoprotective activity mainly due to the presence of phenolic components and among these, the flavonoids.

Moringa oleifera Lam. (Moringaceae) é uma planta com várias atividades biológicas e propriedades terapêuticas. No entanto, o conhecimento completo sobre seus efeitos farmacológicos, biológicos e ecológicos, e sobre os componentes ativos presentes em cada parte vegetal não são ainda completamente elucidados. Este estudo teve como objetivo avaliar as atividades antioxidantes e fotoprotetoras de diferentes extratos de folhas e flores de M. oleifera. Estas atividades foram avaliadas através de testes in vitro, método de eliminação de radicais DPPH, efeito de quelação de íons de ferro (FRAP), peroxidação lipídica (TBARS), método de eliminação de óxido nítrico e avaliação da atividade contra a peroxidação lipídica através do método hemolítico. A atividade fotoprotetora foi avaliada através de análise espectrofotométrica e através de teste in vitro com Labsphere. Também foi determinado o conteúdo fenólico do extrato e o flavonoide total através de espectrofotometria e HPLC. Os resultados obtidos demonstraram que esta espécie possui componentes com potencial antioxidante e fotoprotetor principalmente nos extratos obtidos a partir de folhas frescas e flores. Por conseguinte, foi possível verificar que a M. oleifera tem potencial para ser utilizado como fonte de componentes antioxidantes com atividade fotoprotetora principalmente devido à presença de componentes fenólicos e entre estes, os flavonoides.

Ferulic acid photoprotective properties in association with UV filters: multifunctional sunscreen with improved SPF and UVA-PF.

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation stimulates several injurious biological effects on cutaneous tissue, causing, for instance, photocarcinogenesis. Sunscreens are topical products designed to protect the skin against these harmful effects and their use must be encouraged. The addition of antioxidants, as ferulic acid (FA), a phenolic compound from the class of the hydroxycinnamic acids, in sunscreens could improve their sun protection factor (SPF) and prevent inflammatory reactions. Here, the clinical safety and efficacy of an association of ethylhexyl triazone and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (UV filters) with ferulic acid were assessed. Samples had good skin biocompatibility and presented satisfactory safety profile, even in a sun-exposed condition. A synergic effect between the natural polyphenol and the UV filters was evidenced, as well as, FA increased in vivo SPF in 37% and the UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) in 26%. The in vivo data indicated that FA reinforced the broad-spectrum characteristic of the photoprotective formulations. Additionally, according to the results from the ex vivo antioxidant test, it is plausible to recommend adjustments on the ex vivo protocol to explicitly determine the positive effects of topical antioxidant ingredients applied over the skin. These results provided a new perspective for the development of multifunctional bioactive sunscreens using FA as a new platform.

Safety and Antioxidant Efficacy Profiles of Rutin-Loaded Ethosomes for Topical Application.

Topical application of dermocosmetics containing antioxidant and/or the intake of antioxidants through diet or supplementation are remarkable tools in an attempt to slow down some of the harmful effects of free radicals. Rutin is a strong antioxidant compound used in food and pharmaceutical industries. It was established that rutin presents a low skin permeation rate, a property that could be considered an inconvenience to the satisfactory action for a dermocosmetic formulation to perform its antioxidant activity onto the skin. Therefore, it is indispensable to improve its delivery, aiming at increasing its antioxidant capacity in deeper layers of the epidermis, being a possibility to associate the rutin to liposomal vesicles, such as ethosomes. Thus, in this work, the pre-clinical safety of rutin-loaded ethosomes was investigated employing an in vitro method, and the clinical safety and efficacy were also assessed. Rutin-loaded ethosomes were efficaciously obtained in a nanoscale dimension with a relevant bioactive compound loading (80.2%) and provided antioxidant in vitro activity in comparison with the blank sample. Pre-clinical and clinical safety assays assured the innocuous profile of the rutin-loaded ethosomes. The ethosomes containing the bioactive compound accomplished a more functional delivery system profile, since in the tape stripping assay, the deeper layers presented higher rutin amounts than the active delivered in its free state. However, the ex vivo antioxidant efficacy test detected no positive antioxidant activity from the rutin-loaded ethosomes, even though the in vitro assay demonstrated an affirmative antioxidant action.

Active ingredients, mechanisms of action and efficacy tests of antipollution cosmetic and personal care products

Urban population around the globe is direct exposed to the pollution caused by several sources (vehicles, industries, smokes etc.) and primary pollutants are divided in particulate matter and toxic gases. Current researches in populous countries indicated that exposure to pollution could affect sebum composition, stratum corneum quality and signs of skin aging. Hair and scalp are also affected by the excessive exposure to pollutants, resulting in a dull, dry and lifeless appearance. Cosmetics have been evolved conceptual and scientifically to achieve substantial effectiveness against pollution damaging on the cutaneous tissue, involving the development of innovative multipurpose active ingredients and efficacy tests, skilled to prove the protection and benefits of such personal care products. In this review, we highlighted the skin and hair/scalp damages provoked by the main environmental pollutants and the active substances used in antipollution cosmetics/personal care products with the respective mechanisms of action. Likewise, in vitro and in vivo efficacy tests were discussed concerning the antipollution claim substantiating

Hydrolyzed collagen interferes with in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens

ABSTRACT The chronological skin aging is a progressive and natural process with genetic and physiological changes. However, ultraviolet (UV) radiation may accelerate the oxidative stress, generating carcinogenesis and photoaging. Natural compounds and their applications are considered a trend in the cosmetic market. The protein-based film-forming compounds play an important role, once it collaborates for the better distribution of sunscreens on the skin. Here we investigated the in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens containing the hydrolyzed collagen associated with UVA, UVB and/or inorganic filters. Sunscreens were developed with octocrylene (7.5%), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) (3.0%) and/or titanium dioxide (5.0%), associated or not with the hydrolyzed collagen (3.0%). In vitro photoprotective effectiveness was determined in a Labsphere(r) UV2000S by the establishment of the sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength (nm) values. Physicochemical and organoleptic characteristics were also assayed. The hydrolyzed collagen subjectively improved the formulation sensory characteristics. However, this bioactive compound led to a decrease of the SPF values of the photoprotective formulations containing octocrylene alone and octocrylene + butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane + TiO2. This inadequate interaction may be considered during the development of new sunscreens intended to contain protein-based components.

Gelatin-based microspheres crosslinked with glutaraldehyde and rutin oriented to cosmetics

ABSTRACT Glutaraldehyde (GTA) has been extensively used as a gelatin crosslinking agent, however, new natural ones have been suggested as more biocompatible. Polyphenols are possible candidates and the flavonols, such as rutin (RUT), also exhibit potential synergism with sunscreens and antioxidant agents used in cosmetics. In this work, gelatin microspheres (M0) were obtained and crosslinked with GTA 10 mM (MG) or RUT 10 mM (MR), dissolved in acetone:NaOH 0,01M (70:30 v/v). MG exhibited crosslinking extent of 54.4%. Gelatin, M0, MG and MR did not elicit any signs of skin damage, regarding the formation of erythema, the barrier function disruption and negative interference in the stratum corneum hydration. Oily dispersions containing M0, MG or MR, isolated or combined with benzophenone-3 or octyl methoxycinnamate, suggested that the microspheres, at a 5.0% w/w, had no additional chemical or physical photoprotective effect in vitro. Crosslinking with RUT had occurred, but in a lower degree than GTA. Microspheres had not improved sun protection parameters, although, non-treated gelatin interfered positively with the SPF for both UV filters. The in vivo studies demonstrated that these materials had very good skin compatibility.

Safety and efficacy evaluation of gelatin-based nanoparticles associated with UV filters.

The safety and efficacy assessment of nanomaterials is a major concern of industry and academia. These materials, due to their nanoscale size, can have chemical, physical, and biological properties that differ from those of their larger counterparts. The encapsulation of natural ingredients can provide marked improvements in sun protection efficacy. This strategy promotes solubility enhancement of flavonoids and yields an improved active ingredient with innovative physical, physicochemical and functional characteristics. Rutin, a flavonoid, has chemical and functional stability in topical vehicles exerting a synergistic effect in association with ultraviolet (UV) filters. However, the solubility of rutin is a limiting factor. Additionally, this bioactive compound does not have tendency to permeate across the stratum corneum. As an alternative to common synthetic based sunscreens, rutin-entrapped gelatin nanoparticles were designed. The present study investigated the pre-clinical safety of gelatin nanoparticles (GNPs) using an in vitro method and also assessed the clinical safety and efficacy of the association of GNPs with three commonly used chemical UV filters (ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and methoxydibenzoylmethane). The non-irritant and adequate safety profile under sun-exposed skin conditions of the nanomaterials and the emulsions qualified the products for clinical efficacy assays. The in vivo results indicated that the GNPs increased the antioxidant protection of the emulsions developed. However, the presence of rutin in the nanosized material did not enhance performance on the SPF test. In conclusion, these findings characterized the nanomaterials as an innovative platform for multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Cutaneous biocompatible rutin-loaded gelatin-based nanoparticles increase the SPF of the association of UVA and UVB filters.

The encapsulation of natural ingredients, such as rutin, can offer improvements in sun protection effectiveness. This strategy can provide enhanced flavonoid content and produces an improved bioactive compound with new physical and functional characteristics. As an alternative to common synthetic-based sunscreens, rutin-entrapped gelatin nanoparticles (GNPs) were designed and associated with ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA (EHDP), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) and methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) in sunscreen formulations. The purpose of this study was to develop rutin-loaded gelatin nanoparticles and characterize their physicochemical, thermal, functional and safety properties. Rutin-loaded gelatin nanoparticles increased antioxidant activity by 74% relative to free-rutin (FR) solution. Also, this new ingredient upgraded the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) by 48%, indicating its potential as a raw material for bioactive sunscreens. The safety profile indicated that GNPs and glutaraldehyde (GTA) decreased HaCaT cell viability in a concentration/time-dependent manner. However, both blank nanoparticles (B-NC) and rutin-loaded nanoparticles (R-NC) had good performance on skin compatibility tests. These results functionally characterized rutin-loaded nanoparticles as a safe SPF enhancer in sunscreens, especially in association with UV filters.

Desenvolvimento, avaliação da segurança e eficácia clínica de sistemas nanoparticulados de gelatina contendo rutina / Development, safety assessment and clinical efficacy of rutin nanoparticulate gelatin systems

A associação de filtros solares a compostos bioativos tem sido estudada com ênfase na última década. Contudo, a solubilidade limitada dos compostos naturais, tais como a rutina, restringe o desenvolvimento de preparações cosméticas seguras, funcionais e estáveis. A proposta deste estudo envolveu a obtenção de nanoestruturas de gelatina (contendo ou não rutina) para aplicação em protetores solares. Os objetivos específicos foram: (1) preparar partículas de gelatina; (2) realizar a caracterização física, físico-química, morfológica, térmica e funcional (in vitro); (3) avaliar a citotoxicidade e a penetração/permeação curtânea in vitro dos sistemas; (4) desenvolver fotoprotetores bioativos de eficácia estimada in vitro; e (5) determinar a segurança e eficácia clínica fotoprotetora das preparações contendo as estruturas proteicas. As nanopartículas apresentaram-se esféricas e com diâmetro médio e índice de polidispersividade variando entre 318,9 ± 6,9 (B-NC) a 442,8 ± 4,9 nm (R-NC) e 0,06 ± 0,03 (B-NC) a 0,12 ± 0,01 (R-NC), respectivamente. Os valores do potencial zeta apresentaram-se entre -28,5 ± 0,9 mV (B-NC) e -26,6 ± 0,5 mV (R-NC). R-NC apresentou eficiência de associação equivalente a 51,8 ± 1,4%. Os ensaios de segurança das nanopartículas evidenciaram perfil citotóxico adequado para aplicação cosmética, bem como, a ausente tendência de penetração/permeação cutânea. Tendo em vista os resultados obtidos in vitro, as nanopartículas contendo rutina apresentaram capacidade antioxidante 74% superior à rutina em seu estado livre e contribuíram para o aumento de 48% do fator de proteção solar (FPS) quando associada à avobenzona (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), ao p-metoxicinamato de octila (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) e ao octil dimetil PABA (ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA). A avaliação da eficácia clínica das formulações evidenciou a influência da nanopartícula, sem adição do flavonoide, na proteção da pele contra a formação do eritema UV induzido. Por meio da avaliação dos aspectos funcionais, foi possível constatar, in vitro e in vivo, que a adição das nanopartículas em sistemas fotoprotetores influenciou seu perfil de transmitância da radiação UV, bem como, seus efeitos sobre o eritema UV induzido. Os resultados obtidos apresentaram perspectivas de aplicação prática no desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos fotoprotetores associados a substâncias bioativas, por meio de plataforma nanotecnológica

Especially, in the last decade, the association of chemical filters and bioactive compounds has been studied by several authors. However, the limited solubility of natural compounds, such as rutin restricts the development of safe and stable cosmetic preparations. The aim of this work was the development of gelatin nanoparticles (with or without rutin) as an ingredient in sunscreens. The specific goals were: (1) the development of rutin-loaded gelatin nanoparticles; (2) to perform the physical, physical-chemical, morphological, thermal and functional (in vitro) analysis; (3) to assess the cytotoxicity and skin penetration / permeation in vitro of the nanoparticles; (4) to develop bioactive sunscreens and to perform the in vitro photoprotection efficacy assay; and (5) to evaluate the in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) of the formulations. The nanoparticles were spherical with an average size and polydispersive index between 318.9 ± 6.9 nm (B-NC) at 442.8 nm ± 4.9 (R-NC), and 0.06 ± 0, 03 (B-NC) to 0.12 ± 0.01 (R-NC). The zeta potential values were high and negative, ranging from - 28.5 ± 0.9 mV (B-NC) and -26.6 ± 0.5 mV (R-NC). R-NC entrapment efficient was 51.8 ± 1.4%. The nanoparticle safety assessment showed a cytotoxic profile suitable for cosmetic application, as well as the absent trend of penetration/ permeation of the skin. The in vitro results indicated that the rutin-loaded gelatin nanoparticles increased 74% the antioxidant profile in comparison with free rutin and also increased 48% the SPF (in vitro) when combined with butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA. The assessment of the clinical efficacy assays showed the influence of blank nanoparticle in the protection of the skin against UV-induced erythema response. It was established in vitro and in vivo that the addition of gelatin nanoparticles in sunscreens influenced its UV transmittance profile, as well as its anti-erythema effects on the skin. The results have practical application in the development of sunscreen with bioactive ingredients and at the design of an innovative ingredient with a chemopreventive profile

Functional photostability and cutaneous compatibility of bioactive UVA sun care products.

Sunscreens are the most-established approach for photoprotection. The strategy of providing antioxidant properties to sun care products by addition of natural and potent anti-free radical compounds has led to the development of bioactive sunscreens, able to neutralize the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UVA filters, such as benzophenone-3 (BP) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), can exhibit photodegradation which limits the development of broad spectrum sunscreens. Previous research verified that rutin interacts with filters incorporated in sunscreens. In this work, we focused on the development and evaluation of the efficacy of the sunscreens containing either BP or BMDBM with and without rutin. The addition of rutin to the UVA filters afforded antioxidant properties to the formulations and they were considered safe for human use. Additionally, rutin in combination with either BP or BMDBM increased the antioxidant activity about 40 times when compared with the UVA filters alone. Remarkably, the addition of rutin 0.1% (w/w) to BP 6.0% (w/w) raised the SPF from 24.3±1.53 to 33.3±2.89. In conclusion, these findings demonstrated that the addition of rutin into sunscreens can markedly improve the antioxidant properties of the formulation as well as photostabilize some of the UVA filters.