Effect of hydroxypropyl-ß-cyclodextrin in fluid and semi-solid submicron emulsions on physiological skin parameters during regular in vivo application.

OBJECTIVE: The aim of the present study was to evaluate the effect of hydroxypropyl-ß-cyclodextrin (HP-ß-CD) in cosmetic submicron emulsions and submicron emulsion gels on physiological skin parameters during regular application in a clinical set-up. METHODS: Formulation morphology was investigated using cryo-transmission electron microscopy. Stability of the employed formulations was determined by photon correlation spectroscopy, measurement of pH and rheological properties. Effect on physiological skin parameters was evaluated during regular application over four weeks in a parallel group study (n = 15, healthy forearm skin) with a Corneometer, Sebumeter, skin-pH-Meter, Aquaflux and an Epsilon sensor. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was employed to monitor urea and NMF levels. RESULTS: Both submicron emulsions and gels showed satisfying storage stability irrespective of cyclodextrin incorporation. No statistically significant effects on skin barrier function and any of the observed parameters were obtained, indicating good skin tolerability of all tested formulations. CONCLUSION: Results suggest good skin tolerability of the developed cosmetic submicron emulsions and gels with HP-ß-CD.

OBJECTIF: Le but de la présente étude était d'évaluer l'effet de l'hydroxypropyl-ß-cyclodextrine (HP-ß-CD) dans les émulsions cosmétiques submicroniques et les gels d'émulsion submicronique sur les paramètres physiologiques de la peau lors d'une application régulière dans une configuration clinique. MÉTHODES: La morphologie de la formulation a été étudiée en utilisant la microscopie électronique à transmission cryo. La stabilité des formulations employées a été déterminée par spectroscopie de corrélation de photons, mesure du pH et des propriétés rhéologiques. L'effet sur les paramètres physiologiques de la peau a été évalué lors d'une application régulière pendant quatre semaines dans une étude de groupe parallèle (n = 15, peau d'avant-bras saine) avec un cornéomètre, un sébumètre, un pH-mètre cutané, un Aquaflux et un capteur Epsilon. La spectroscopie Raman confocale a été utilisée pour surveiller les niveaux d'urée et de NMF. RÉSULTATS: Les émulsions et les gels submicroniques ont montré une stabilité de stockage satisfaisante indépendamment de l'incorporation de cyclodextrine. Aucun effet statistiquement significatif sur la fonction de barrière cutanée et aucun des paramètres observés n'a été obtenu, indiquant une bonne tolérance cutanée de toutes les formulations testées. CONCLUSION: Les résultats suggèrent une bonne tolérance cutanée des émulsions et des gels cosmétiques submicroniques développés avec HP-ß-CD.

Hair removal and bioavailability of chemicals: Effect of physicochemical properties of drugs and surfactants on skin permeation ex vivo.

Cosmetic hair removal procedures are everyday routines in our society. However, it is unclear if such routines lead to increased uptake of applied substances such as drugs or formulation compounds, potentially resulting in skin irritation or sensitization. The aim of this study was to elucidate the effect of common depilation and epilation methods on skin penetration of two surfactants and four model drugs of different physicochemical properties using the porcine ear model. It should be elucidated whether the substances' skin penetration behavior would be affected by hair removal procedures and if potential effects would be related to their polarity. Confocal Raman spectroscopy revealed no effect of hair removal on total penetration depths of SDS and sulfathiazole. Significantly higher relative penetrated amounts within 0-6 µm of stratum corneum depth were found for SDS after dry shaving, depilatory cream and waxing and for sulfathiazole after all depilation methods and partly after epilation. ATR-FTIR spectroscopy revealed no effect of hair removal on the penetration depth of lecithin LPC80, but higher relative amounts at the skin surface after wet shaving and electric epilation. Diffusion cell experiments using a lecithin-based microemulsion as carrier system for fluconazole, fludrocortisone acetate and flufenamic acid showed higher cumulative amounts, higher drug fluxes and shorter lag times for the more lipophilic drugs for some of the methods, but only shorter lag times in some cases for fluconazole. In summary, the observed effects appeared to depend on drug polarity and experimental setup.

Effect of Physical and Chemical Hair Removal Methods on Skin Barrier Function in vitro: Consequences for a Hydrophilic Model Permeant.

BACKGROUND: Although very common in our society, the effect of hair removal on physiological skin parameters and on the ingress of applied chemicals has not been systematically investigated. Thus, as a first step, the aim of the present study was to elucidate the effect of hair removal through epilation (electric epilation, waxing) and depilation (dry and wet shaving, depilatory cream) on skin properties in vitro using the porcine ear model. METHODS: Attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, measurement of the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), visualization by capacitance-based contact imaging, confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS), diffusion cell studies and tape stripping experiments were employed. RESULTS: Increased TEWL and altered skin permittivity maps were observed. Decreased stratum corneum thickness was observed after waxing. Diffusion cell studies showed increased skin permeation especially in case of dry shaving, electric epilation and waxing. CONCLUSION: Considering CRS and diffusion cell data, a moderate if significant decrease in skin barrier function was found after hair removal by dry shaving (physical skin/material interaction) and epilation methods (plucking out the entire hair, for example, by electrical epilation and waxing). Subsequent experiments will include testing of different permeants covering a broad range of physicochemical properties in vitro and confirming our findings in vivo.