RESUMO
BACKGROUND: Skin aging has many manifestations such as wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and dryness. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, especially ultraviolet light-induced oxidative radicals, contribute to the etiology of aging. Human skin requires both water- and lipid-soluble nutrient components, including hydrophilic and lipophilic antioxidants. Vitamins C and E have important protective effects in the aging process and require exogenous supply. Raspberry leaf extracts contain botanical actives that have the potential to hydrating and moisturizing skin. Topical products with these ingredients may therefore combine to provide improved anti-aging effects over single ingredients. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the anti-aging and brightening effects of an encapsulated serum containing vitamin C (20% w/w), vitamin E, and European raspberry (Rubus idaeus) leaf cell culture extract. METHODS: Fifty female volunteers aged 30-65 years were allocated one capsule of serum for topical application on one side of the face for 2 months, in addition to self-use of facial skin products. Both test (treated) and contralateral (untreated) sides were dermatologically assessed after 4 and 8 weeks. Skin color (melanin index), elasticity, radiance, moisture, and water evaporation were measured by Mexameter MX18® , Cutometer® , Glossymeter GL200® , Corneometer CM825® , and Tewameter TM300® instruments, respectively (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH). Skin microtopography parameters, smoothness (SEsm), roughness (SEr), scaliness (SEsc), and wrinkles (SEw), were measured by Visioscan® VC98 USB (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH), and gross lifting effects were measured by VECTRA® H1 (Canfield Scientific), and adverse reactions and satisfaction were also assessed. RESULTS: Skin color, elasticity, and radiance were significantly improved. The smoothness, scaliness, and wrinkles were also revealed significant improvement. Mild adverse reactions were tingling and tightness. CONCLUSIONS: The vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract serum has anti-aging and brightening effects of skin.
