Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach.

OBJECTIVE: Skin ageing is a multifactorial process involving formation of reactive oxygen species, consecutive inflammation with reduced epidermal and dermal cell viability and resulting damage to the extracellular matrix. Effective dermocosmetic treatment modalities should ideally address these hallmarks in a holistic approach. Here, we determined the corresponding activity profile of bakuchiol, a plant-derived meroterpene, in an array of in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies and compared it to retinol, currently considered as gold standard in topical antiageing cosmetics. METHODS: The antioxidative capacity and power of bakuchiol and retinol were analysed by measuring 2,2'-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) reduction via its absorption decay and electron spin resonance spectroscopy, respectively. Effects on prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), macrophage migration inhibitory factor (MIF), fibroblast growth factor 7 (FGF7), collagen type I and VII (COL1A1, COL7A1), fibronectin (FN) levels as well as the metabolization of water-soluble tetrazolium 1 (WST-1) were determined in human dermal fibroblasts. Epidermal regeneration was assessed utilizing an in vitro wound healing model. FN protein levels were analysed ex vivo after treatment with a formulation containing bakuchiol, retinol or vehicle using suction blister fluid. Skin condition improvement was determined in vivo in a split-face comparison study after application of bakuchiol or vehicle. RESULTS: In contrast to retinol, bakuchiol demonstrated high antioxidative efficacy. Levels of PGE2 and MIF were significantly decreased by both bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol but not retinol significantly increased FGF7 protein levels. WST-1 metabolization levels were significantly augmented by bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol and retinol application led to a significant augmentation of COL1A1, COL7A1 and FN protein levels. Wounds supplemented with bakuchiol but not retinol displayed a significant increase in epidermis regeneration. Clinically, areas treated with a bakuchiol-containing formulation showed a statistically significant increase in FN protein values after a 4-week application compared to untreated areas and areas treated with vehicle. CONCLUSION: These data provide evidence for the multidirectional efficacy of bakuchiol against cellular hallmarks of skin ageing. Its activity profile shares some common features with retinol but demonstrates several hitherto unknown biopositive effects in our studies, namely stimulation of the critical extracellular matrix component FN, and accelerated epidermal regeneration and wound healing.

OBJECTIF: le vieillissement de la peau est un processus multifactoriel impliquant la formation de dérivés réactifs de l'oxygène, une inflammation consécutive qui entraîne une viabilité réduite des cellules du derme et de l'épiderme, et endommage la matrice extracellulaire. Pour être efficaces, les traitements dermocosmétiques devraient dans l'idéal traiter ces caractéristiques selon une approche holistique. Ici, nous avons déterminé le profil d'activité correspondant du bakuchiol, un méroterpène d'origine végétale, dans une série d'études in vitro, ex vivo et in vivo, et l'avons comparé au rétinol, qui est aujourd'hui considéré comme la référence parmi les cosmétiques anti-âge topiques. MÉTHODES: la capacité antioxydante et la puissance du bakuchiol et du rétinol ont été analysées en mesurant la réduction du 2,2-diphényl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) selon sa décroissance par absorption et à l'aide d'une spectroscopie par résonance magnétique électronique, respectivement. Les effets sur la prostaglandine E2 (PGE2), le facteur inhibiteur de la migration (FIM) des macrophages, le facteur de croissance des fibroblastes 7 (FGF7), le collagène de type I et VII (COL1A1, COL7A1), les taux de fibronectine (FN), ainsi que la métabolisation du tétrazolium 1 soluble dans l'eau (WST-1) ont été déterminés dans des fibroblastes dermiques humains. La régénération épidermique a été évaluée à l'aide d'un modèle de cicatrisation des plaies in vitro. Les taux de fibronectine ont été analysés ex vivo après un traitement avec une formulation contenant du bakuchiol, du rétinol ou un excipient à l'aide d'un liquide d'aspiration sous forme de vésicules. L'amélioration de l'état de la peau a été déterminée in vivo dans une étude de comparaison en hémiface après l'application de bakuchiol ou d'un excipient. RÉSULTATS: Contrairement au rétinol, le bakuchiol s'est avéré présenter une efficacité antioxydante élevée. Les taux de PGE2 et de FIM ont significativement diminué avec le bakuchiol et le rétinol. L'application de bakuchiol s'est accompagnée d'une augmentation significative des taux de protéine FGF7, mais pas celle de rétinol. Les taux de métabolisation du WST-1 ont augmenté de façon significative avec le bakuchiol et le rétinol. L'application de bakuchiol et de rétinol a entraîné une augmentation significative des taux de protéines COL1A1, COL7A1 et fibronectine. Les plaies supplémentées en bakuchiol, mais pas en rétinol, ont montré une augmentation significative de la régénération épidermique. Sur le plan clinique, les zones traitées avec une formulation contenant du bakuchiol ont montré une augmentation statistiquement significative des taux de fibronectine après une application de 4 semaines par rapport aux zones non traitées et aux zones traitées avec un excipient. CONCLUSION: ces données fournissent des preuves de l'efficacité multidirectionnelle du bakuchiol contre les caractéristiques cellulaires du vieillissement de la peau. Son profil d'activité partage certaines caractéristiques communes avec le rétinol, mais démontre plusieurs effets biopositifs jusqu'alors inconnus dans nos études : la stimulation de la fibronectine, composante essentielle de la matrice extracellulaire, et une régénération épidermique et une cicatrisation accélérée des plaies.

Hair and stress: A pilot study of hair and cytokine balance alteration in healthy young women under major exam stress.

Mouse models show that experimental stress mimicking prolonged life-stress exposure enhances neurogenic inflammation, induces adaptive immunity cytokine-imbalance characterized by a shift to Type 1 T-helper cell cytokines and increases apoptosis of epithelial cells. This affects hair growth in otherwise healthy animals. In this study, we investigate whether a prolonged naturalistic life-stress exposure affects cytokine balance and hair parameters in healthy humans. 33 (18 exam, 15 comparison) female medical students with comparable sociobiological status were analyzed during a stressful final examination period, at three points in time (T) 12 weeks apart. T1 was before start of the learning period, T2 between the three-day written exam and an oral examination, and T3 after a 12 week rest and recovery from the stress of the examination period. Assessments included: self-reported distress and coping strategies (Perceived Stress Questionnaire [PSQ], Trier Inventory for the Assessment of Chronic Stress [TICS]), COPE), cytokines in supernatants of stimulated peripheral blood mononucleocytes (PBMCs), and trichogram (hair cycle and pigmentation analysis). Comparison between students participating in the final medical exam at T2 and non-exam students, revealed significantly higher stress perception in exam students. Time-wise comparison revealed that stress level, TH1/TH2 cytokine balance and hair parameters changed significantly from T1 to T2 in the exam group, but not the control. However, no group differences were found for cytokine balance or hair parameters at T2. The study concludes that in humans, naturalistic stress, as perceived during participation in a major medical exam, has the potential to shift the immune response to TH1 and transiently hamper hair growth, but these changes stay within a physiological range. Findings are instructive for patients suffering from hair loss in times of high stress. Replication in larger and more diverse sample populations is required, to assess suitability of trichogram analysis as biological outcome for stress studies.

Highly efficient and compatible shampoo for use after hair transplant.

BACKGROUND: Sensitive or hyperreactive skin is a common condition defined by prickling, burning, pain, and pruritus. Although this skin problem was initially described on the face, the scalp is often affected. A sensitive scalp can react with irritation to harsh surfactants or other additives which are often present in shampoos. For this reason, we developed a new rinse-off hypertolerant shampoo specifically designed for the hypersensitive and problematic scalp. METHODS: The shampoo formulation is based on an extremely mild surfactant system and contains bisabolol, an anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory ingredient of chamomile. The shampoo is free of additives such as perfumes, silicones, colorants, parabens, paraffins, and betaine. Since skin can remain in a hyperreactive state after wounding, the status after hair transplantation was chosen as a model system to test the shampoo. Scalp condition and compatibility of each volunteer were analyzed by a plastic surgeon directly after hair transplant and after stitch removal. The plastic surgeons also rated whether they would recommend the further use of the test shampoo. Additionally, volunteers completed a self-assessment questionnaire. RESULTS: Following hair transplantation, regular use of the shampoo resulted in a significant reduction in the extent of scabbing and erythema. This was confirmed by dermatological scalp examinations performed by the plastic surgeon as well as in volunteers' self-assessments. The plastic surgeon highly recommended the further use of the test shampoo after hair transplant to all study participants. CONCLUSION: Application of the test shampoo demonstrated excellent skin compatibility and product efficacy after hair transplant. The test shampoo significantly reduced the extent of scabs and erythema. Therefore, the shampoo is ideally suited for use after hair transplantation and for the treatment of sensitive scalp. The excellent skin compatibility is because of the mild surfactant system, the calming ingredient bisabolol, and the absence of potentially irritating ingredients.

Glutathione-conjugated sulfanylalkanols are substrates for ABCC11 and γ-glutamyl transferase 1: a potential new pathway for the formation of odorant precursors in the apocrine sweat gland.

We have previously shown that precursors of odorous components characteristic of axillary sweat are hardly detectable or undetectable in individuals carrying the 538G > A SNP in the ABCC11 transporter gene. However, it is unclear, whether ABCC11 is directly involved in the transport of these compounds. To approach this question, transport of peptide-conjugated potential precursors of 3-methyl-3-sulfanylhexanol (3M3SH), a key determinant of axillary malodour, was measured using membrane vesicles of Sf9 insect cells overexpressing human ABCC11. Whilst no ABCC11-mediated transport was detected for the dipeptide precursor Cys-Gly-3M3SH, the glutathione conjugate of 3M3SH (SG-3M3SH) was robustly taken up by ABCC11 at a transport rate of 0.47 pmol/mg/min. Collectively, these results illuminate SG-3M3SH as a putative precursor of 3M3SH, which then may undergo intra-vesicular maturation to generate Cys-Gly-3M3SH. Critically, the apocrine sweat gland was demonstrated to express γ-glutamyl transferase 1 (GGT1) protein, which is known to catalyse the deglutamylation of glutathionyl conjugates. Additionally, we provide evidence that recombinant and isolated hepatic human GGT1 is capable of transforming SG-3M3SH to Cys-Gly-3M3SH in vitro. To sum up, we demonstrate that the functionality of ABCC11 is likely to play an important role in the generation of axillary malodour. Furthermore, we identify GGT1 as a key enzyme involved in the biosynthesis of Cys-Gly-3M3SH.

Efficacy of a new tonic containing urea, lactate, polidocanol, and glycyrrhiza inflata root extract in the treatment of a dry, itchy, and subclinically inflamed scalp.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: Dry, itchy and inflamed scalp conditions are common and often associated with diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. To improve these symptoms, we investigated the efficacy of a new tonic containing the active ingredients urea, lactate, polidocanol, and Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, containing licochalcone A. STUDY DESIGN/METHODS: 30 subjects with dry and itchy scalp conditions underwent a randomized half-head study for 4 weeks, applying the leave-on tonic three times a week on one side of the scalp. Tonic effects on skin hydration, itching, lipids, microinflammation, and substantivity of tonic compounds were determined using corneometry, middle-infrared spectroscopy, direct analysis in real-time mass spectrometry, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. Volunteers performed a self-assessment; changes in scalp condition were documented by in vivo microscopy. RESULTS: After tonic treatment, scalp moisture was significantly increased, whereas scalp itching and tautness were significantly reduced. Results also demonstrated a high substantivity of urea and lactate on the scalp, an increase in triglyceride, and a decrease in free fatty acid levels. The amount of total lipids was unchanged. Analyses of scalp wash-ups verified a significant reduction in important pro-inflammatory markers. CONCLUSION: Due to the actives urea, lactate, polidocanol, and the anti-inflammatory licochalcone A, the new scalp tonic exhibited excellent performance in alleviating scalp dryness, itching, microinflammation, and in normalizing disturbances of scalp lipids.

High prevalence of LRRK2 mutations in familial and sporadic Parkinson's disease in Portugal.

Mutations in the Leucine-Rich Repeat Kinase 2 (LRRK2) gene are the most frequent known cause of Parkinson's disease (PD), but their prevalence varies markedly between populations. Here we studied the frequency and associated phenotype of four recurrent LRRK2 mutations (R1441C, R1441G, R1441H, and G2019S) in familial and sporadic PD from a single referral center in Lisbon, Portugal. Among 138 unrelated PD probands, we identified 9 heterozygous G2019S carriers (6.52%) and 1 heterozygous R1441H carrier (0.72%). The G2019S mutation was present in 4 of the 107 sporadic (3.74%) and in 5 of the 31 familial probands (16.1%). Mutations were not found among 101 Portuguese controls. The G2019S mutation was present on a single haplotype and displayed reduced penetrance. Heterozygous parkin gene mutations were also found in 2 G2019S-positive probands, but their pathogenic role is unclear. The clinical phenotype in patients with LRRK2 mutations was indistinguishable from that of typical PD, including impaired sense of smell. The G2019S mutation is a very common genetic determinant among the Portuguese patients with PD, and the R1441H mutation is also present in this population. These data have important implications for the diagnostic work-up and genetic counseling of patients with this disease in Portugal.

Inducible expression of 15-lipoxygenase-2 and 8-lipoxygenase inhibits cell growth via common signaling pathways.

Human 15-lipoxygenase (LOX)-2 and mouse 8-LOX represent orthologous members of the LOX family but display different positional specificities and tissue distribution. To study the functional role of 15-LOX-2 and 8-LOX in keratinocytes, an inducible Tet-On gene expression system was established in the premalignant mouse keratinocyte cell line 308. Doxycycline (dox)-induced expression of enzymatically active 15-LOX-2 and 8-LOX led to an inhibition of cell growth that was associated with an inhibition of DNA synthesis, as shown by a 15-46% reduction of 5-bromo-2-deoxy-uridine (BrdU) incorporation. The inhibitory effects were increased in the presence of exogenous arachidonic acid. In contrast, addition of linoleic acid or the LOX inhibitor baicalein reversed the growth-inhibitory effects. Treatment of the cells with 15-hydroxyeicosatetraenoic acid (HETE) or 8-HETE resulted in a similar inhibition of BrdU incorporation, whereas 13-hydroxyoctadecadienoic acid (HODE) and 9-HODE, in contrast, had no effects. Dox-induced keratinocytes showed increased levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The antioxidant N-acetyl-L-cysteine and a specific inhibitor of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase, but not of extracellular signal-regulated kinase 1/2 or c-Jun N-terminal kinase/stress-activated kinases, completely abolished the LOX-induced growth inhibition, indicating a critical role of ROS and p38. Our data suggest that 15-LOX-2 and 8-LOX, although displaying different positional specificity, may use common signaling pathways to induce growth inhibition in premalignant epithelial cells.