The heterogeneity and complexity of skin surface lipids in human skin health and disease.

The outermost epidermal layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is not simply a barrier that safeguards skin integrity from external insults and invaders, it is also a delicately integrated interface composed of firm, essentially dead corneocytes and a distinctive lipid matrix. Together, the stratum corneum lipid matrix and sebum lipids derived from sebaceous glands give rise to a remarkably complex but quite unique blend of skin surface lipids that demonstrates tremendous heterogeneity and provides the skin with its indispensable protective coating. The stratum corneum lipid matrix is composed primarily of three major lipid classes: ceramides, non-esterified fatty acids and cholesterol, whereas sebum is a waxy mixture predominantly composed of acylglycerols, wax esters, non-esterified fatty acids, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol esters. The balance of these skin surface lipids in terms of their relative abundance, composition, molecular organisation and dynamics, and their intricate interactions play a crucial role in the maintenance of healthy skin. For that reason, even minuscule alterations in skin surface lipid properties or overall lipid profile have been implicated in the aetiology of many common skin diseases including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, xerosis, ichthyosis and acne. Novel lipid-based interventions aimed at correcting the skin surface lipid abnormalities have the potential to repair skin barrier integrity and the symptoms associated with such skin diseases, even though the exact mechanisms of lipid restoration remain elusive.

Vehicles for Drug Delivery and Cosmetic Moisturizers: Review and Comparison.

Many dermatological conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis, are treated with topical therapeutic products. Instead of applying the active drug directly onto the skin, it is combined with a vehicle to aid in its delivery across the stratum corneum (SC) and into deeper regions of the skin, namely the epidermis and dermis. Absorption into the systemic circulation is minimized. Topical vehicles are also used as cosmetic moisturizers (often termed emollient therapy) to ameliorate dry skin, which is a cornerstone of the management of various dermatological conditions, including xerosis, eczema, psoriasis, and aging. The most common topical vehicles include ointments, creams, gels, and lotions, among others. It is crucial that topical vehicles are chosen based upon the size and properties (wet/dry, mucous/non-mucous, healthy/diseased) of the skin to be treated in order to optimize application and contact of the product with the skin, as this can have profound impacts on potency, efficacy, and patient compliance. This review examines common topical vehicles used for drug delivery and cosmetic moisturizers, including their formulation, advantages and disadvantages, and effects on the skin. The unique rules imposed by governing regulatory bodies in Australia and around the world, in terms of topical product claims, are also briefly examined.

Recruitment of adults with moderate eczema for a randomised trial: Comparison of traditional versus modern methods.

BACKGROUND: Clinical trial recruitment is challenging for investigators who often overestimate the pool of qualified, willing subjects. Moreover, there is a paucity of literature, particularly in dermatology, regarding recruitment and the comparative success of advertising strategies. METHODS: Both 'traditional' (physician referral, newspaper and radio advertisements, letterbox drops, posters/flyers, word-of-mouth) and 'modern' (patient recruitment services, social media, Google advertisements, websites, email) recruitment methods were used to enrol 100 patients (>18 years) diagnosed with moderate eczema for a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial investigating the efficacy and safety of a topical eczema treatment over 4 weeks. The relationships between recruitment method and patient age, sex, race, study completion and costs were analysed. RESULTS: The majority of patients recruited were young, with millennials and Gen Z comprising 77% of the study population. Both traditional and modern recruitment methods were equally successful in recruiting younger patients, with older patients predominately recruited by traditional methods. Eighty per cent more men were recruited by traditional compared to modern methods, whilst 67% more women than men were recruited by modern methods. Recruitment method neither appeared to be influenced by race, nor did it effect whether patients completed the study. Costs per enrolment were similar for both methods. CONCLUSIONS: This study shows that despite the high proportion of young patients and the rising popularity of social media and increased internet use, a combination of both traditional and modern recruitment methods was required to successfully meet the trial enrolment target of 100 adult patients with moderate eczema.

A daily regimen of a ceramide-dominant moisturizing cream and cleanser restores the skin permeability barrier in adults with moderate eczema: A randomized trial.

The dysfunctional skin barrier in eczema patients may be attributed to decreased levels of ceramides in the stratum corneum. The aim of this study was to determine whether a two-part system consisting of a ceramide-dominant physiological lipid-based moisturizing cream and cleanser could ameliorate the signs and symptoms of moderate eczema in adults over 28 days compared to placebo. Assessments were conducted at baseline and every 7 days thereafter. Eczema area severity index score decreased significantly across all time points in both groups compared to baseline (P < .0001), however, this decrease was not significant between groups at day 28 (P = .7804). In contrast, transepidermal water loss and skin hydration significantly improved over time in the active group, while it either stayed the same or worsened in the placebo group (P = .0342 and P < .0001, respectively). There was no difference in the use of mometasone furoate as rescue medication over time between groups (P = .1579). Dermatology life quality index scores improved significantly in both groups (P < .0001), with no difference between groups (P = .5256). However, patient satisfaction was greater in the active compared to the placebo group for several parameters including relief of itch, dry skin, skin softness and smoothness (all P < .05). No patients withdrew from the study due to adverse events (AEs) and there were no serious AEs. The ceramide-dominant moisturizing cream and cleanser safely restores skin permeability and improves the signs and symptoms of eczema in adults.

An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin.

BACKGROUND: The demand for antiaging products has dramatically increased in recent years, driven by an aging population seeking to maintain the appearance of youth. This study investigates the effects of an antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) in conjunction with vitamins B3, C, and E on the biomechanical parameters of facial skin. METHODS: Fifty two volunteers followed an antiaging skin care regimen comprising of cleanser, eye cream, day moisturizer, and night moisturizer for 21 days. Wrinkle depth (Ry ) and skin roughness (Ra ) were measured by skin surface profilometry of the crow's feet area, and skin elasticity parameters R2 (gross elasticity), R5 (net elasticity), R6 (viscoelastic portion), and R7 (recovery after deformation) were determined for facial skin by cutometer, preapplication and after 7, 14, and 21 days. Volunteers also completed a self-assessment questionnaire. RESULTS: Compared to baseline, Ry and Ra significantly improved by 32.5% (P<0.0001) and 42.9% (P<0.0001), respectively, after 21 days of antiaging skin care treatment. These results were observed by the volunteers with 9 out of 10 discerning an improvement in skin texture and smoothness. Compared to baseline, R2 and R5 significantly increased by 15.2% (P<0.0001) and 12.5% (P=0.0449), respectively, while R6 significantly decreased by 17.7% (P<0.0001) after 21 days. R7 increased by 9.7% after 21 days compared to baseline but this was not significant over this time period. CONCLUSION: An antiaging skin care system containing AHAs and vitamins significantly improves the biomechanical parameters of the skin including wrinkles and skin texture, as well as elasticity without significant adverse effects.