RESUMO
BACKGROUND: The process by which functional elastic fibers are produced, namely elastogenesis, is complex and difficult to assess in vitro. Identifying efficient elasticity-boosting ingredients thus represents a challenge. AIMS: The elasticity-boosting properties of a novel extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems were assessed in vitro in 3D culture models before being evaluated in human female volunteers. METHODS: Synthesis of elastic fiber related proteins was evaluated in a skin-equivalent model. Using multiphoton microscopy, the structural organization of elastin deposits was studied within a scaffold-free dermal microtissue. Biomechanical properties of the 3D microtissue were also measured by atomic force microscopy. In vivo, fringe-projection and image analysis were used to evaluate nasogenian fold severity in a panel of Caucasian female volunteers. The impact of gravity on visible signs of facial aging was assessed by clinical scoring carried out alternatively in the supine and sitting positions. RESULTS: We showed the Murraya koenigii extract increased protein expressions of elastin and fibrillin-1 in a 3D skin equivalent model. Using scaffold-free dermal microtissue, we confirmed that Murraya koenigii extract allowed a proper and ordered network of elastin deposits and consequently improved tissue elasticity. Clinical data showed that a twice-daily application for 98 days of the extract formulated at 1% allowed to visibly reduce nasogenian fold severity, jowl severity and to mitigate the impact of gravity on the facial signs of aging. CONCLUSION: The newly discovered extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems represents an innovative antiaging ingredient suited for elasticity-boosting and antisagging claims.
