Skin-on-a-chip technologies towards clinical translation and commercialization.

Skin is the largest organ of the human body which plays a critical role in thermoregulation, metabolism (e.g. synthesis of vitamin D), and protection of other organs from environmental threats, such as infections, microorganisms, ultraviolet radiation, and physical damage. Even though skin diseases are considered to be less fatal, the ubiquity of skin diseases and irritation caused by them highlights the importance of skin studies. Furthermore, skin is a promising means for transdermal drug delivery, which requires a thorough understanding of human skin structure. Current animal andin vitrotwo/three-dimensional skin models provide a platform for disease studies and drug testing, whereas they face challenges in the complete recapitulation of the dynamic and complex structure of actual skin tissue. One of the most effective methods for testing pharmaceuticals and modeling skin diseases are skin-on-a-chip (SoC) platforms. SoC technologies provide a non-invasive approach for examining 3D skin layers and artificially creating disease models in order to develop diagnostic or therapeutic methods. In addition, SoC models enable dynamic perfusion of culture medium with nutrients and facilitate the continuous removal of cellular waste to further mimic thein vivocondition. Here, the article reviews the most recent advances in the design and applications of SoC platforms for disease modeling as well as the analysis of drugs and cosmetics. By examining the contributions of different patents to the physiological relevance of skin models, the review underscores the significant shift towards more ethical and efficient alternatives to animal testing. Furthermore, it explores the market dynamics ofin vitroskin models and organ-on-a-chip platforms, discussing the impact of legislative changes and market demand on the development and adoption of these advanced research tools. This article also identifies the existing obstacles that hinder the advancement of SoC platforms, proposing directions for future improvements, particularly focusing on the journey towards clinical adoption.

Preparation and Evaluation of Nanoemulsion Formulation Containing Kojic Acid and Kojyl 3-aminopropylphosphonic Acid.

BACKGROUND: The kojyl 3-aminopropylphosphonic acid (KAP) was synthesized by kojic acid (KA) with a 3-aminopropylphosphonic acid. Which is more stable than KA and showed better skin penetration and anti-pigmentation efficacy in melanocytes. However, up till now, there have been no studies aimed at incorporating KAP into an emulsion system and evaluating its effectiveness. OBJECTIVE: We develop a novel skin-lightening agent using KAP as the active ingredient and a low-cytotoxic nanoemulsion as the delivery system in this study. METHOD: The sorbitan monooleate and polysorbate surfactants with polyethylene glycol (PEG) co-surfactant were used to generate a nanoemulsion system. RESULT: The transparency and particle size stability over various storage times indicate that the formulated nanoemulsions are suitable for long-term storage. Besides, results demonstrate that the anti-pigmentation function of KA and KAP-containing nanoemulsions (NE-KA and NEKAP) evidently outperformed that of the non-packed KA and KAP group. Despite having the lowest concentration among other treatments, NE-KAP was able to reduce melanin content to approximately 80% of the blank. CONCLUSION: Our findings suggest that this newly developed nanoemulsion containing KAP could potentially serve as a sustainable alternative to hydroquinone for treating dermal hyperpigmentation disorders in future applications.

Unveiling the potential of Pseudococcomyxa simplex: a stepwise extraction for cosmetic applications.

Microalgae are gaining attention as they are considered green fabrics able to synthesize many bioactive metabolites, with unique biological activities. However, their use at an industrial scale is still a challenge because of the high costs related to upstream and downstream processes. Here, a biorefinery approach was proposed, starting from the biomass of the green microalga Pseudococcomyxa simplex for the extraction of two classes of molecules with a potential use in the cosmetic industry. Carotenoids were extracted first by an ultrasound-assisted extraction, and then, from the residual biomass, lipids were obtained by a conventional extraction. The chemical characterization of the ethanol extract indicated lutein, a biosynthetic derivative of α-carotene, as the most abundant carotenoid. The extract was found to be fully biocompatible on a cell-based model, active as antioxidant and with an in vitro anti-aging property. In particular, the lutein-enriched fraction was able to activate Nrf2 pathway, which plays a key role also in aging process. Finally, lipids were isolated from the residual biomass and the isolated fatty acids fraction was composed by palmitic and stearic acids. These molecules, fully biocompatible, can find application as emulsifiers and softener agents in cosmetic formulations. Thus, an untapped microalgal species can represent a sustainable source for cosmeceutical formulations. KEY POINTS: • Pseudococcomyxa simplex has been explored in a cascade approach. • Lutein is the main extracted carotenoid and has antioxidant and anti-aging activity. • Fatty acids are mainly composed of palmitic and stearic acids.

"Edible Beauty": The Evolution of Environmentally Friendly Cosmetics and Packaging.

The cosmetics industry plays a significant role in the global economy and consumer lifestyles. Its dynamic and adaptable characteristics make it a key player worldwide. The cosmetics industry generates enormous profits globally, injecting billions of dollars into the world's economy each year. The industry's marketing efforts, product launches, and trends influence consumer behavior and perceptions of beauty, contributing to cultural dialogues and societal norms. This study, conducted with a rigorous bibliometric and systematic literature review, offers a comprehensive overview of recent progress in edible cosmetics. The "skincare you can eat" is an innovative branch of cosmetics that employs food co-products and by-products to create edible skincare and hair products and edible packaging materials to advance human well-being and sustainability while honoring the ecological boundaries of our planet. Nutrients and antioxidants derived from organic waste are used in cosmetics and packaging. Some doubts remain about the capacity of edible packaging to be attractive to consumers and offer a reasonable shelf life for cosmetics, and also about safety. It is desirable for the authorities to guarantee consumer health through carefully regulating labeling requirements and good manufacturing practices for cosmetics and edible packaging.

Adverse Effects of Do-It-Yourself Nail Cosmetics: A Literature Review.

Background: As self-applied manicures have gained popularity, it is important for physicians to remain informed about potential associated side effects. Traditional polish remains most popular among nail enthusiasts, but the pursuit of durability and convenience accelerated development of other nail cosmetic products, including gel polish, acrylic nails, and press-on nails. Despite documented adverse effects among beauty professionals and salon customers, individuals practicing at-home nail care routines may face similar, if not more, frequent complications due to misinformation, inadequate training, and social media trends. Summary: This review provides an overview of adverse effects associated with different at-home nail cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis is the most prevalent adverse event, primarily attributed to (meth)acrylates found in nail glue, gel polish, and acrylic nails. Other adverse effects include infections, chemical burns, and complications from ultraviolet nail lamps. Key Message: The review highlights the importance of transparent product labeling and appropriate warning labels from manufacturers, as well as physician education and awareness for minimizing risks related to at-home nail cosmetic applications.

Predisposing factors of using cosmetics in Iranian female students: application of prototype willingness model.

Background and aim: The use of cosmetics among Iranian teenagers and youths has increased more than ever before. This study investigated the predisposing factors of cosmetic use in female students of Ardabil University of Medical Sciences by using the prototype willingness model (PWM). Methods: This cross-sectional study was conducted with 384 students, selected based on multistage sampling. Data were collected using a two-part questionnaire that included demographic variables and PWM questions. Then multiple regression analysis was used in SPSS (version 20). Results: There was a significant difference in the frequency of daily cosmetic use based on the education levels (F = 3.845, p-value = 0.034). The average daily use of cosmetics was higher in students whose use of cosmetics was high in their family (p = 0.024) and friends (p-value = 0.023). Prototypes were the strongest predictor of using cosmetics (OR = 1.317, p-value <0.001), followed by attitude (OR = 1.241, p-value <0.001). Conclusion: Prototypes (social imagination) and attitudes were the main predictors of using cosmetics among female students. To be effective in targeting cosmetic use, interventions must target both social and individual paths.

Validation and Collaborative Studies of Headspace Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (HS GC-MS) for Determination of 1,4-Dioxane in Cosmetic Samples.

BACKGROUND: 1,4-Dioxane (1,4-D) is a by-product of the synthesis of surfactants, typically found in some cosmetics products such as shampoo, toothpaste, and soap. The presence of 1,4-D in cosmetics products is limited to certain amount since 1,4-D is classified as a probable human carcinogen. OBJECTIVE: This present study was intended to validate static headspace gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (HS GC-MS) for the determination of 1,4-D in cosmetics products. METHODS: The condition of headspace and GC-MS was optimized to get the best condition for analysis of 1,4-D using 1,4-Dioxane-d8 (1,4-D-d8) as internal standard (IS). The developed method was validated by evaluating the key performance characteristics, including specificity, linearity, limit of detection (LoD), limit of quantification (LoQ), accuracy, and precision. RESULTS: The results showed that HS GC-MS was specific since the peaks of the selected ion monitoring (SIM) mode could be separated and confirmed at m/z 88 and m/z 96 for 1,4-D and 1,4-D-d8, respectively. The method was linear over the concentration range of 0.1287-1.2875 µg/mL, with R2 > 0.999 and RSD residuals < 2.0. A collaborative study were conducted on this method, with ten participating laboratories from four countries. The outcome of this study was found to be accurate and precise, as evidenced by the excellent recoveries ranged from 94.6-102.1% and with good reproducibility with RSD values ranged from 0.2-1.1%. The collaborative studies exhibited that all data reported by ten participating laboratories in four countries were inliers without any extreme values observed either in mean or RSD values. CONCLUSION: This HS GC-MS is found to be fit and suitable for the determination of trace level of 1,4-D in cosmetics products. HIGHLIGHTS: HS GC-MS method could be proposed as a standard method for quantitative analysis of 1,4-D in cosmetics products since the collaborative studies indicated that the developed method meet the requirement in "Guidelines for Collaborative Study Procedures to Validate Characteristics of a Method of Analysis".

Drug repurposing for regenerative medicine and cosmetics: Scientific, technological and economic issues.

Regenerative medicine and cosmetics are currently two outstanding fields for drug discovery. Although many pharmaceutical products for regenerative medicine and cosmetics have received approval by official agencies, several challenges are still needed to overcome, especially financial and time issues. As a result, drug repositioning, which is the usage of previously approved drugs for new treatment, stands out as a promising approach to tackle these problems. Recently, increasing scientific evidence is collected to demonstrate the applicability of this novel method in the field of regenerative medicine and cosmetics. Experts in drug development have also taken advantage of novel technologies to discover new candidates for repositioning purposes following computational approach, one of two main approaches of drug repositioning. Therefore, numerous repurposed candidates have obtained approval to enter the market and have witnessed financial success such as minoxidil and fingolimod. The benefits of drug repositioning are undeniable for regenerative medicine and cosmetics. However, some aspects still need to be carefully considered regarding this method including actual effectiveness during clinical trials, patent regulations, data integration and analysis, publicly unavailable databases as well as environmental concerns and more effort are required to overcome these obstacles.

Improvement in Facial Wrinkles Using Materials Enhancing PPARGC1B Expression Related to Mitochondrial Function.

Skin aging is an unavoidable natural phenomenon caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. In modern society, the pursuit of a wrinkle-free and aesthetically appealing face has gained considerable prominence. Numerous studies have aimed at mitigating the appearance of facial wrinkles. Antiaging research focused on regulating the function of mitochondria, the main reactive oxygen species-generating organelles, has been extensively conducted. In this study, we investigated the correlation between facial wrinkles and the expression of PPARGC1B, considering the association of this gene with mitochondrial function, to identify its potential as a target for exploring antiaging cosmetic materials. We elucidated the role of PPARGC1B in the skin and identified five bioactive materials that modulated its expression. The effectiveness of these materials was verified through in vitro experiments on human dermal fibroblasts. We prepared cosmetic formulations incorporating the five materials and confirmed their ability to enhance dermal collagen in three-dimensional skin models and reduce facial wrinkles under the eyes and nasolabial fold areas in human subjects. The study findings have significant implications for developing novel antiaging cosmetic formulations by reinforcing mitochondrial functions.

Frictional Properties of Soaps with the Addition of Ground Hazelnut Shells.

The search for new technologies and related new biological materials for use in the cosmetics industry requires many studies and analyses of not only chemical but also physical properties. This study attempts to assess the properties of soap produced with the addition of crushed hazelnut shells. This additive is intended to improve the friction properties of the soap, which in turn enhances the quality of removing impurities from the skin. Friction tests for wet and dry skin were performed on an appropriately designed measuring station using the Texture Analyser XT plus device. The obtained results indicate an increase in dynamic friction value compared to the control sample. This work proposes an unconventional use of ground hazelnut shells as one of the additives in soap production to improve its quality.

Laponite®-From Dispersion to Gel-Structure, Properties, and Applications.

Laponite® (LAP) is an intensively studied synthetic clay due to the versatility given by its layered structure, which makes it usable in various applications. This review describes the multifaceted properties and applications of LAP in aqueous dispersions and gel systems. The first sections of the review discuss the LAP structure and the interactions between clay discs in an aqueous medium under different conditions (such as ionic strength, pH, temperature, and the addition of polymers) in order to understand the function of clay in tailoring the properties of the designed material. Additionally, the review explores the aging phenomenon characteristic of LAP aqueous dispersions as well as the development of shake-gels by incorporating LAP. The second part shows the most recent studies on materials containing LAP with possible applicability in the drilling industry, cosmetics or care products industry, and biomedical fields. By elucidating the remarkable versatility and ease of integration of LAP into various matrices, this review underscores its significance as a key ingredient for the creation of next-generation materials with tailored functionalities.

Safety assessment of cocamidopropyl betaine, a cosmetic ingredient.

Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) is a surfactant derived from coconut oil that is widely used in cosmetics and personal products for several purposes, such as a surfactant, foam booster, mildness, and viscosity control. Cocamidopropyl betaine is used at concentrations up to 30% in cosmetics. The acute toxicity, skin irritation, eye irritation, skin sensitization, repeated dose toxicity, genotoxicity, carcinogenicity, and phototoxicity of cocamidopropyl betaine were evaluated. Cocamidopropyl betaine was observed to induce mild skin irritation, eye irritation and skin sensitization. The NOAEL of cocamidopropyl betaine was determined to be 250 mg/kg/day based on the results of a 92-day repeated-dose oral toxicity study in rats. The systemic exposure dose of cocamidopropyl betaine was estimated to range from 0.00120 to 0.93195 mg/kg/day when used in cosmetic products. The margin of safety of cocamidopropyl betaine was calculated to be greater than 100 when used at a maximum concentration of 6% in leave-on products and 30% in rinse-off products, suggesting that its use in cosmetic products is safe under current usage conditions.

Assessment of Microbial Contamination and Metabolite Exposure in Cosmetic Products Used in Women's Beauty Salons.

Background: An important route of microbial transmission is the shared use of these products in beauty salons. We aimed to investigate level of contamination with microorganisms and their metabolites in shared-use cosmetics in several women's beauty salons. Methods: Bacterial and fungal strains from 320 opened/used cosmetic samples were identified according to the Iranian standards for microbial quality of cosmetic products in Golestan Province (North of Iran) during Jul-Sep 2021. In order to assess production of toxins and protease by the predominant bacterial and fungal isolates, multiplex-polymerase chain reaction and the Lowry protein assay were performed, respectively. Results: Microbial contamination was detected in 180 samples (56.5%), and the highest and lowest rates of microbial contamination were related to skin products (63.88%) and eye beauty products (20%), respectively. The highest level of S. aureus contamination (> 4,000 colony-forming units/g) was found in toner and face wash samples, and the highest level of C. albicans contamination was seen in lipstick samples (>20,000 colony-forming units/g). Only one (2%) S. aureus isolate produced staphylococcal enterotoxin B, while 3 out of 12 (25%) C. albicans isolates were able to produce protease. Conclusion: The shared-used health and beauty products, face products, in the study area are heavily contaminated. Therefore, it is essential to store used cosmetics in dry and cool places, establish strict inspection regulations for cosmetic products before and after entering the market, and increase awareness of beauty salon workers regarding the appropriate use, sanitary control, and maintenance of health and beauty products.

Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) first published a safety assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid in 1985. The Panel previously concluded that Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid are safe as used in the present practices of use and concentration, as stated in that report. Upon re-review in 2003, the Panel reaffirmed the original conclusion, as published in 2006. The Panel reviewed updated frequency and concentration of use data again in 2023, in addition to any newly available, relevant safety data. Considering this information, as well as the information provided in the original safety assessment and the prior re-review document, the Panel reaffirmed the 1985 conclusion.

Isobutane, Isopentane, Butane, and Propane.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) first published the Final Report of the safety of Isobutane, Isopentane, Butane, and Propane in 1982. The Panel previously concluded that these ingredients are considered safe as cosmetic ingredients under the present conditions of concentration and use, as described in that safety assessment. Upon re-review in 2002, the Panel reaffirmed the original conclusion, as published in 2005. The Panel reviewed update frequency and concentration of use data again in 2023, in addition to newly available, relevant safety data. Considering this information, as well as the information provided in the original safety assessment and the prior re-review document, the Panel reaffirmed the 1982 conclusion for Isobutane, Isopentane, Butane, and Propane.

The Total Mass of Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFASs) in California Cosmetics.

Cosmetics make up one of the consumer product categories most widely known to contain perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs), including precursors to perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and other perfluoroalkyl acids (PFAAs). Because of the way cosmetics are used, most of the PFASs present in these products are likely to reach wastewater treatment plants (WWTPs), which suggests that cosmetics may contribute significantly to the load of PFOA and other PFASs at WWTPs. However, the majority of PFASs present as intentional ingredients in cosmetics cannot be quantified with the available analytical methods. To address this issue, we developed a methodology to estimate the total PFAS mass in cosmetics as well as the corresponding mass of total organic fluorine and of fluorinated side chains associated with PFAA precursors, using various ingredient databases and ingredient concentrations reported by manufacturers. Our results indicate that the cosmetics sold in California during a one-year period cumulatively contain 650-56 000 kg of total PFASs, 370-37 000 kg of organic fluorine, and 330-20 000 kg of fluorinated side chains associated with PFAA precursors. Among the 16 product subcategories considered, >90% of the PFAS mass came from shaving creams and gels, hair care products, facial cleansers, sun care products, and lotions and moisturizers, while the sum of all nine makeup subcategories accounted for <3%. Comparing our estimates to available WWTP influent data from the San Francisco Bay Area suggests that cosmetics may account for at least 4% of the precursor-derived PFAAs measured in wastewater. As the first study ever to estimate the total mass of PFASs contained in cosmetics sold in California, our results shed light on the significance of certain cosmetics as a source of PFASs to WWTPs and can inform effective source reduction efforts.

A sustainable and innovative method to determine parabens in body creams for exposure and risk assessment.

Methylparaben (MeP), ethylparaben (EtP), propylparaben (PrP), and butylparaben (BuP) are among the most widely used preservatives in cosmetics, drugs, and foods. These compounds have been associated with toxic effects due to the overuse of products with parabens in their formulation. The toxicity of parabens may be correlated to endocrine disruption, owing to their ability to mimic the actions of estradiol. In this paper, a simple, sustainable, robust, and innovative dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction (DLLME) technique was developed and employed to extract these xenobiotics from body cream samples, aiming to calculate the margin of safety (MoS) to assess the risk of exposure. The validated method presented suitable linearity (r > 0.99), lower limits of detection (ranging from 0.01 to 0.04 % w/w), and satisfactory precision and accuracy (ranging from 4.33 to 10.47, and from -14.25 to 13.85, respectively). Seven of the ten analysed samples presented paraben contents within the acceptable concentration according to European legislation. The MoS value obtained for PrP (37.58) suggested its reduced safety, indicating that PrP may significantly contribute to systemic exposure resulting from the use of personal care products.

Factors affecting consumers' repurchase intention toward skin care cosmetics: A cross - sectional study in Vietnam.

The purpose of this study is to investigate the factors affecting consumers' repurchase intentions of skincare cosmetics in Can Tho city. By examining consumers' knowledge, behaviors, and factors impacting their intention of repeatedly buying skincare products, manufacturers and sales businesses are able to more effectively comprehend their clients' demands. Data were collected from 531 consumers residing in the area of Can Tho city, Vietnam, who had bought skincare products for the second time or more. The survey using the cross-sectional method and a set of questionnaires was based on the theory of planned behavior (TPB) and developed on the 5-point Likert scale. The factors impacting repurchase intentions for skincare merchandise involve attitude, reliability of signal quality, and retailer credibility, with attitude being the most powerful influence, followed by retailer credibility and reliability of signal quality respectively. These factors accounted for 27.5 % of behavior variance. The clarity element of signal quality reliability does not affect behavioral intention. Cosmetic companies can develop policies, improve the quality of their products in order to suit the customer needs, retain potential clients, and enhance their competitive capability.