Impact of solvent dry down, phase change, vehicle pH and slowly reversible keratin binding on skin penetration of cosmetic relevant compounds: II. Solids.

We extended a mechanistic, physics-based framework of the dry down process, previously developed for liquids and electrolytes, to solids and coded it into the latest UB/UC/P&G skin permeation model, herein renamed DigiSkin. The framework accounts for the phase change of the permeant from dissolved in a solvent (liquid) to precipitated on the skin surface (solid). The evaporation rate for the solid is reduced due to lower vapor pressure for the solid state versus subcooled liquid. These vapor pressures may differ by two orders of magnitude. The solid may gradually redissolve and penetrate the skin. The framework was tested by simulating the in vitro human skin permeation of the 38 cosmetically relevant solid compounds reported by Hewitt et al., J. Appl. Toxicol. 2019, 1-13. The more detailed handling of the evaporation process greatly improved DigiSkin evaporation predictions (r2 = 0.89). Further, we developed a model reliability prediction score classification using diverse protein reactivity data and identified that 15 of 38 compounds are out of model scope. Dermal delivery predictions for the remaining chemicals have excellent agreement with experimental data. The analysis highlighted the sensitivity of water solubility and equilibrium vapor pressure values on the DigiSkin predictions outcomes influencing agreement with the experimental observations.

Mechanisms of penetration and diffusion of drugs and cosmetic actives across the human Stratum corneum.

Based on the structure of the Stratum corneum (SC) the potential penetration/diffusion pathways of drugs and cosmetic actives through the SC are presented and discussed. The well-known lipophilic pathway across the SC is presented and relevant examples are used to show that highly lipophilic molecules such as glucocorticoids, coenzyme Q10 etc. are accumulated in the SC and penetrate into the inner liquid like layer of the SC lipid bilayer by lateral diffusion. The diffusion into and across the SC of highly hydrophilic drugs and active substances such as urea, amino acids and peptides is still under discussion. Another diffusion pathway for the highly hydrophilic molecules via the corneocytes and the corneodesmosomes is presented and discussed, the corneocytary diffusion pathway.

Influence of Surfactant on the Skin Permeation of Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone.

Patch tests are often used in safety evaluations to identify the substance causing skin irritation, but the same substance can sometimes give positive or negative results depending on the test conditions. Here, we investigated differences in the skin penetration of two test compounds under different application conditions. We studied the effects of the anionic surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and the nonionic surfactant polysorbate 80 (PS) on skin penetration of the preservatives methylisothiazolinone (MT) and methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCT), which are used in cosmetics such as shampoos. The skin permeation of MT was enhanced by SDS but was unchanged by PS. Skin impedance decreased in the presence of SDS whereas PS had the same effect as the control aqueous solution, suggesting that SDS reduction of the barrier function of skin affects the permeation of MT, a hydrophilic drug. Application of a mixture of MCT and MT in the presence of SDS did not affect the skin permeation of MCT whereas the permeation of MT was enhanced by SDS, indicating that the skin permeation of MCT is less affected by SDS than is MT. Thus, attention should be paid to the possible effect of co-solutes, especially hydrophilic drugs.

Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethyl Urea as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Hydroxyethyl Urea, which is reported to function as a humectant and a hair and skin conditioning agent. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of this ingredient. The Panel concluded that Hydroxyethyl Urea is safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating.

Arc-poration improves transdermal delivery of biomolecules.

BACKGROUND: To increase skin permeability, various transdermal delivery techniques have been developed. However, due to the stratum corneum as a skin barrier, transdermal delivery remains limited. AIMS: In this study, we evaluated efficacy and safety of arc-poration as a novel technique disrupting the stratum corneum. RESULTS: Optical images and histological analysis using reconstituted human skin and porcine skin showed that the treatment of arc-poration created micropores with an average diameter of approximately 100 µm only to the depth of the stratum corneum, but not viable epidermis. In addition, the Franz diffusion cell experiment using reconstituted human skin showed a remarkable increase in permeability following pretreatment with arc-poration. Clinical results clearly demonstrated the enhancement of the skin-improving effect of cosmetics by pretreatment of arc-poration in terms of gloss, hydration, flakiness, texture, tone, tone evenness, and pigmentation of skin, without causing abnormal skin responses. The concentration of ozone and nitrogen oxides generated by arc-poration was below the permissible value for the human body. CONCLUSIONS: Arc-poration can increase skin permeability by creating stratum corneum-specific micropores, which can enhance the skin-improving effect of cosmetics without adverse responses.

Investigating the uncertainty of prediction accuracy for the application of physiologically based pharmacokinetic models to animal-free risk assessment of cosmetic ingredients.

Physiologically based pharmacokinetic (PBPK) models are considered useful tools in animal-free risk assessment. To utilize PBPK models for risk assessment, it is necessary to compare their reliability with in vivo data. However, obtaining in vivo pharmacokinetics data for cosmetic ingredients is difficult, complicating the utilization of PBPK models for risk assessment. In this study, to utilize PBPK models for risk assessment without accuracy evaluation, we proposed a novel concept-the modeling uncertainty factor (MUF). By calculating the prediction accuracy for 150 compounds, we established that using in vitro data for metabolism-related parameters and limiting the applicability domain increase the prediction accuracy of a PBPK model. Based on the 97.5th percentile of prediction accuracy, MUF was defined at 10 for the area under the plasma concentration curve and 6 for Cmax. A case study on animal-free risk assessment was conducted for bisphenol A using these MUFs. As this study was conducted mainly on pharmaceuticals, further investigation using cosmetic ingredients is pivotal. However, since internal exposure is essential in realizing animal-free risk assessment, our concept will serve as a useful tool to predict plasma concentrations without using in vivo data.

The Emerging Role of Ionic Liquid-Based Approaches for Enhanced Skin Permeation of Bioactive Molecules: A Snapshot of the Past Couple of Years.

Topical and transdermal delivery systems are of undeniable significance and ubiquity in healthcare, to facilitate the delivery of active pharmaceutical ingredients, respectively, onto or across the skin to enter systemic circulation. From ancient ointments and potions to modern micro/nanotechnological devices, a variety of approaches has been explored over the ages to improve the skin permeation of diverse medicines and cosmetics. Amongst the latest investigational dermal permeation enhancers, ionic liquids have been gaining momentum, and recent years have been prolific in this regard. As such, this review offers an outline of current methods for enhancing percutaneous permeation, highlighting selected reports where ionic liquid-based approaches have been investigated for this purpose. Future perspectives on use of ionic liquids for topical delivery of bioactive peptides are also presented.

Safety Assessment of Keratin and Keratin-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 8 keratin-derived ingredients, which function mainly as skin and hair conditioning agents in personal care products. The Panel reviewed relevant data provided in this safety assessment and concluded that the 8 keratin-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Saccharide Esters as Used in Cosmetics.

This is a safety assessment of 40 saccharide ester ingredients as used in cosmetics. The saccharide esters are reported to function in cosmetics as emollients, skin-conditioning agents, fragrance ingredients, and emulsion stabilizers. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the relevant data for these ingredients. The Panel concluded that the saccharide esters are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentrations described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Inorganic Hydroxides as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of inorganic hydroxides, which function in cosmetics primarily as pH adjusters. Representatives from the cosmetic industry have indicated these ingredients are used in depilating and hair waving/straightening formulations to raise pH values. The Panel considered relevant data related to these ingredients. The Panel concluded that these inorganic hydroxides are safe in hair straighteners and depilatories under conditions of recommended use; users should minimize skin contact. These ingredients are safe for all other present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be nonirritating.

Amended Safety Assessment of Fatty Acyl Sarcosines and Sarcosinate Salts as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 5 acyl sarcosines and 9 sarcosinate salts as used in cosmetics; all of these ingredients are reported to function in cosmetics as hair conditioning agents and most also can function as surfactants-cleansing agents. The ingredients reviewed in this assessment are composed of an amide comprising a fatty acyl residue and sarcosine and are either free acids or simple salts thereof. The Panel relied on relevant new data, including concentration of use, and considered data from the previous Panel report, such as the reaction of sarcosine with oxidizing materials possibly resulting in nitrosation and the formation of N-nitrososarcosine. The Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe as used in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating, but these ingredients should not be used in cosmetic products in which N-nitroso compounds may be formed.

Final Amended Safety Assessment of Sodium Sulfate as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reopened the safety assessment of Sodium Sulfate, a cosmetic ingredient that is an inorganic salt reported to function in cosmetics as a viscosity increasing agent-aqueous. The Panel reviewed the relevant new data for the ingredient, including frequency of use and concentration of use, and considered data from the previous Panel assessment. The Panel concluded that Sodium Sulfate is safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentrations described in this safety assessment when formulated to be nonirritating.

Safety Assessment of Phosphoric Acid and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Phosphoric Acid and its salts (31 ingredients), which are reported to function as buffering agents, corrosion inhibitors, chelating agents, and pH adjusters in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed data relating to the safety of these ingredients and concluded that Phosphoric Acid and its salts are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics when formulated to be nonirritating.

Amended Safety Assessment of Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reassessed the safety of the mixture Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI)/Methylisothiazolinone (MI), which functions as a preservative in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed relevant animal and human data provided in this safety assessment, and data from the previously published safety assessment of this mixture, and concluded that MCI/MI is safe in cosmetics when formulated to be nonsensitizing, based on the results of a quantitative risk assessment or similar methodology; however, at no point should concentrations exceed 7.5 ppm in leave-on products or 15 ppm in rinse-off products.

Amended Safety Assessment of Methylisothiazolinone as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reassessed the safety of Methylisothiazolinone, which functions as a preservative in cosmetics. The Panel reviewed relevant animal and human data provided in this safety assessment, and data from the previously published safety assessments of Methylisothiazolinone, and concluded that Methylisothiazolinone is safe for use in rinse-off cosmetic products at concentrations up to 100 ppm (ie, 0.01%) and safe in leave-on cosmetic products when they are formulated to be nonsensitizing, which may be determined based on a quantitative risk assessment or similar methodology.

Peptides as Active Ingredients: A Challenge for Cosmeceutical Industry.

Cosmeceutical field, which merges cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, is nowadays a highly investigated research area, because a scientific demonstration of the claimed bioactivity of new cosmeceutical ingredients is increasingly requested. In fact, an aspect differentiating traditional cosmetics from cosmeceuticals is the identification and characterization of the active ingredients and demonstrating its efficacy in the claimed activity. An interesting group of bioactive cosmeceutical ingredients are peptides, which due to their particular properties, meets most of the requirements presented by the cosmeceutical industry when composing new formulas. In this context, beside bioactivity, two additional aspects have been recently considered, when dealing with peptides as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioavailability and stability. We describe herein novel methods applied in order to enhance peptides skin-penetration and stability, reviewing both scientific articles and patents, issued in the cosmeceutical arena.

Study of vitamin E microencapsulation and controlled release from chitosan/sodium lauryl ether sulfate microcapsules.

Potential benefit of microencapsulation is its ability to deliver and protect incorporated ingredients such as vitamin E. Microcapsule wall properties can be changed by adding of coss-linking agents that are usually considered toxic for application. The microcapsules were prepared by a spray-drying technique using coacervation method, by depositing the coacervate formed in the mixture of chitosan and sodium lauryl ether sulfate to the oil/water interface. All obtained microcapsules suspensions had slightly lower mean diameter compared to the starting emulsion (6.85 ± 0.213 µm), which shows their good stability during the drying process. The choice and absence of cross-linking agents had influence on kinetics of vitamin E release. Encapsulation efficiency of microcapsules without cross-linking agent was 73.17 ± 0.64 %. This study avoided the use of aldehydes as cross-linking agents and found that chitosan/SLES complex can be used as wall material for the microencapsulation of hydrophobic active molecules in cosmetic industry.

Amended Safety Assessment of Parabens as Used in Cosmetics.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 21 parabens as preservatives in cosmetic products. All of these ingredients are reported to function in cosmetics as preservatives; however, 5 are reported to also function as fragrance ingredients. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of these ingredients under the reported conditions of use in cosmetic formulations. The Panel concluded that 20 of the 21 parabens included in this report are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when the sum of the total parabens in any given formulation does not exceed 0.8%. However, the available data are insufficient to support a conclusion of safety for benzylparaben in cosmetics.

The way forward for assessing the human health safety of cosmetics in the EU - Workshop proceedings.

Although the need for non-animal alternatives has been well recognised for the human health hazard assessment of chemicals in general, it has become especially pressing for cosmetic ingredients due to the full implementation of testing and marketing bans on animal testing under the European Cosmetics Regulation. This means that for the safety assessment of cosmetics, the necessary safety data for both the ingredients and the finished product can be drawn from validated (or scientifically-valid), so-called "Replacement methods". In view of the challenges for safety assessment without recourse to animal test data, the Methodology Working Group of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety organised a workshop in February 2019 to discuss the key issues in regard to the use of animal-free alternative methods for the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients. This perspective article summarises the outcomes of this workshop and reflects on the state-of-the-art and possible way forward for the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients for which no experimental animal data exist. The use and optimisation of "New Approach Methodology" that could be useful tools in the context of the "Next Generation Risk Assessment" and the strategic framework for safety assessment of cosmetics were discussed in depth.

Topical delivery of niacinamide: Influence of neat solvents.

Niacinamide (NIA) has been widely used in cosmetic and personal care formulations for several skin conditions. Permeation of topical NIA has been confirmed in a number of studies under infinite dose conditions. However, there is limited information in the literature regarding permeation of NIA following application of topical formulations in amounts that reflect the real-life use of such products by consumers. The aim of the present work was therefore to investigate skin delivery of NIA from single solvent systems in porcine skin under finite dose conditions. A secondary aim was to probe the processes underlying the previously reported low recovery of NIA following in vitro permeation and mass balance studies. The solubility and stability of NIA in various single solvent systems was examined. The solvents investigated included Transcutol® P (TC), propylene glycol (PG), 1-2 hexanediol (HEX), 1-2 pentanediol (1-2P), 1-5 pentanediol (1-5P), 1-3 butanediol (1-3B), glycerol (GLY) and dimethyl isosorbide (DMI). Skin permeation and deposition of the molecule was investigated in full thickness porcine skin in vitro finite dose Franz-type diffusion experiments followed by mass balance studies. Stability of NIA for 72 h in the solvents was confirmed. The solubility of NIA in the solvents ranged from 82.9 ± 0.8 to 311.9 ± 4.5 mg/mL. TC delivered the highest percentage permeation of NIA at 24 h, 32.6 ± 12.1% of the applied dose. Low total recovery of NIA after mass balance studies was observed for some vehicles, with values ranging from 55.2 ± 12.8% to 106.3 ± 2.3%. This reflected the formation of a number of NIA degradation by-products in the receptor phase during the permeation studies. Identification of other vehicles for synergistic enhancement of NIA skin delivery will be the subject of future work.