Comparing Tretinoin to Other Topical Therapies in the Treatment of Skin Photoaging: A Systematic Review.

BACKGROUND: Many morphological and histological changes take place in aging skin. Topical tretinoin is the gold standard anti-aging agent used to reduce signs of aging through stimulation of epidermal growth and differentiation and inhibition of collagenase. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this systematic review is to summarize studies evaluating the efficacy of tretinoin compared with other topical medications and cosmeceuticals in reducing the appearance of skin aging. METHODS: A systematic review was conducted following the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Review and Meta-analysis (PRISMA) guidelines. The literature search was conducted using the PubMed and Embase databases from conception to December 2023. Studies were included if they compared anti-aging outcomes of topical medications with those of topical tretinoin (also called all-trans retinoic acid and retinoic acid). Studies were excluded if they compared non-topical anti-aging treatments with tretinoin or were conducted on animal models. RESULTS: The literature search resulted in 25 studies that met all inclusion and exclusion criteria. The most common study comparators to tretinoin included other forms of vitamin A. Outcomes were reported on the basis of visual reduction of aging signs, histological assessment of the epidermis and dermis, and protein expression. Although comparators to tretinoin had variable efficacy (greater in 7 studies, equivalent in 13 studies, and less in 3 studies), most studies found the comparator to be less irritating and better tolerated by patients than tretinoin. DISCUSSION: Tretinoin is currently the gold standard therapy for the treatment of photoaging, but its poor tolerability often limits its use. Unfortunately, given that most studies comparing topical therapies with tretinoin are of poor quality and/or demonstrate bias, there is a lack of substantial evidence to support an alternative first-line therapy. However, given there are some data to support the efficacy of retinoid precursors, namely retinaldehyde, pro-retinal nanoparticles, and conjugated alpha-hydroxy acid and retinoid (AHA-ret), these agents can be considered a second-line option for anti-aging treatment in patients who cannot tolerate tretinoin.

Nanotechnology-Based Approaches for Cosmeceutical and Skin Care: A Systematic Review.

Cosmeceuticals have gained great importance and are among the top-selling products used for skin care. Because of changing lifestyles, climate, and increasing pollution, cosmeceuticals are utilized by every individual, thereby making cosmeceuticals a fruitful field for research and the economy. Cosmeceuticals provide incredibly pleasing aesthetic results by fusing the qualities of both cosmetics and medicinal substances. Cosmeceuticals are primarily utilized to improve the appearance of skin by making it smoother, moisturized, and wrinkle-free, in addition to treating dermatological conditions, including photoaging, burns, dandruff, acne, eczema, and erythema. Nanocosmeceuticals are cosmetic products that combine therapeutic effects utilizing nanotechnology, allowing for more precise and effective target-specific delivery of active ingredients, and improving bioavailability.

Human Clinical Trials Using Topical Bakuchiol Formulations for the Treatment of Skin Disorders: A Systematic Review.

BACKGROUND: Bakuchiol is a topical cosmeceutical marketed as a retinoid alternative. Human clinical trial data on bakuchiol’s efficacy for the treatment of dermatologic conditions has not been thoroughly evaluated. OBJECTIVE: To review human clinical trials using topical formulations containing bakuchiol in the treatment of facial skin disorders. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A comprehensive electronic search of Cochrane Library, PubMed, EMBASE, and Web of Science was conducted on August 28, 2022, using the search terms “bakuchiol” and “UP256.” Study characteristics, measured outcomes, significant results, and stated limitations were extracted.  Results: Fifteen human clinical trials were analyzed. Dermatologic conditions treated included aging, acne, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Twelve trials were unblinded, open-label trials without a control group. Ten trials used a combination therapy containing bakuchiol. Four trials did not specify the dose or concentration of bakuchiol in treatment regimens. The heterogeneity of treatments, study designs, and measured outcomes makes meta-analysis unfeasible.  Conclusion: Trials lack methodologic rigor, which introduces a high risk of bias in reported outcomes. The use of combination topical formulations containing bakuchiol limits the comparison of bakuchiol’s efficacy with retinoids. Continued research with an improved trial design is needed.J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(4): doi:10.36849/JDD.7763.

Novel Facial Treatment Regimen Improves Aging Skin Appearance.

BACKGROUND: Skin care regimens with multiple active ingredients offer a multimodal approach to anti-aging treatments. OBJECTIVE: The objective of this research was to investigate the efficacy of a multimodal skincare regimen on facial skin appearance after 12 weeks of twice daily use as compared to baseline. METHOD: 35 healthy female subjects 35–65 years of age of Fitzpatrick skin types I–III with mild to moderate facial photoaging characterized by hyperpigmentation were enrolled. Subjects were seen at baseline, week 6, and week 12, and underwent subject and investigator assessments along with noninvasive evaluations (elasticity, corneometry, dermaspectrophotometer) and photography. RESULTS: Most notable at week 12 was a 60% improvement in smoothness, 82% improvement in dryness, 30% improvement in fine lines, and 24% improvement in crow’s feet. There was an 8% reduction in macule hyperpigmentation (P<0.001) at week 12, supporting excellent pigment lightening qualities for the regimen. There was a statistically significant increase in skin firmness (decrease in elasticity) as early as week 6 of 6% with further improvement observed at week 12 of 16% (P=0.002). SUMMARY: A multimodal skincare regimen with antioxidants, retinol, hydrolyzed pearl, caviar extract, peptides, and growth factors including EGF and TGF-β results in an improvement in the appearance of photoaged skin after 12 weeks of twice daily use. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021;20(3):274-278. doi:10.36849/JDD.5791.

Peptides as Active Ingredients: A Challenge for Cosmeceutical Industry.

Cosmeceutical field, which merges cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, is nowadays a highly investigated research area, because a scientific demonstration of the claimed bioactivity of new cosmeceutical ingredients is increasingly requested. In fact, an aspect differentiating traditional cosmetics from cosmeceuticals is the identification and characterization of the active ingredients and demonstrating its efficacy in the claimed activity. An interesting group of bioactive cosmeceutical ingredients are peptides, which due to their particular properties, meets most of the requirements presented by the cosmeceutical industry when composing new formulas. In this context, beside bioactivity, two additional aspects have been recently considered, when dealing with peptides as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioavailability and stability. We describe herein novel methods applied in order to enhance peptides skin-penetration and stability, reviewing both scientific articles and patents, issued in the cosmeceutical arena.

Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Based Bakuchiol Anti-Aging Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin.

BACKGROUND: Patients with sensitive skin find topical retinoid use for anti-aging purposes challenging due to irritation. Bakuchiol, a meroterpene from the Psoralea corylifolia seed, has retinol functionality through retinol-like regulation of gene expression. OBJECTIVE: This research examined the tolerability, efficacy, and barrier effects of a nature-based bakuchiol-containing cleanser and moisturizer in subjects with sensitive skin. METHODS: 60 female subjects Fitzpatrick skin types I–V age 40–65 years with sensitive mild to moderate photodamaged skin were enrolled in this 4 week study. A sensitive skin panel was constructed: 1/3 eczema/atopic dermatitis, 1/3 rosacea, 1/3 cosmetic intolerance syndrome. Subjects used a nature-based cleanser and moisturizer twice daily and underwent transepidermal water loss (TEWL), corneometry, tolerability assessments, and efficacy assessments at baseline, 5–10 minutes post-application, and week 4. RESULTS: The skin care products were well tolerated and efficacious (P<0.001) in terms of investigator assessed improvement in visual smoothness, tactile smoothness, clarity, radiance, overall appearance, and global anti-aging. Cheek corneometry measurements demonstrated a statistically significant 16% increase in skin moisture content (P<0.001). CONCLUSION: A bakuchiol nature-based anti-aging moisturizer is well tolerated and effective in individuals with sensitive skin.J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(12): doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.5522.

The Use of Botanical Extracts in East Asia for Treatment of Hyperpigmentation: An Evidenced-Based Review.

Recent years have seen a growth in the Asian cosmeceutical industry and an expanding worldwide marketplace with increasing consumer use of plant-based skin care products. The rising prevalence of Asian cosmeceuticals has led to research studies assessing the safety and efficacy of these products. We seek to review current evidence on safety and efficacy of key ingredients used in Asian cosmeceuticals to treat disorders of hyperpigmentation. A comprehensive search on PubMed was conducted to identify hyperpigmentation-related research studies on eight popular ingredients used in Asian cosmeceuticals: green tea, soy, orchid, licorice, rice water, ginseng, bamboo, and aloe. Both in vitro studies and clinical trials involving human subjects were included. Of the ingredients reviewed, soy and licorice had the most clinical evidence supporting their efficacy, while all other ingredients were supported by in vitro studies. More research is needed to further evaluate the safety and efficacy of Asian cosmeceutical ingredients in treatment of hyperpigmentation. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(7): doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.4776.

In vitro and in vivo evaluation of a moisture treatment cream containing three critical elements of natural skin moisturization.

OBJECTIVES: To evaluate skin barrier and hydration effects of a new rebalancing moisture treatment (TRMT) and to assess efficacy and tolerability in subjects with photodamaged skin. METHODS: In an epidermal skin model, tissues (n = 5/group) were topically treated with 25 µL of TRMT, 25 µL of a market-leading moisturizer (MLM), or untreated for 60 minutes. Hydration was measured at 0, 15, and 30 minutes. Tissues were harvested for gene expression analysis of markers associated with skin barrier and hydration: Claudin (CLD), Aquaporin (AQP), Hyaluronic Acid Syntheses (HAS), and Hyaluronidase (HYAL). A clinical study evaluated twice-daily application of TRMT, assessing changes in fine lines/wrinkles, brightness, texture, erythema, and tolerability from baseline through week 8. Hydration was measured using electrical impedance. RESULTS: TRMT and MLM demonstrated significant increases in hydration vs untreated tissue at each timepoint (P < .005), with greater hydration effects observed for TRMT vs MLM. TRMT-treated tissues demonstrated greater expression of CLD, AQP, and HA, and reduced expression of HYAL vs untreated and MLM-treated tissues. Twice-daily application of TRMT demonstrated significant improvements at 2 weeks in fine lines/wrinkles (P < .001), brightness (P < .0001), texture (P < .0004), and hydration (P < .004). At 8 weeks, statistically significant improvements were achieved in all categories. CONCLUSION: In an epidermal skin model, TRMT demonstrated significant increases in hydration, greater hydration effects, and expression of key markers associated with skin barrier and hydration vs a MLM. Twice-daily application of TRMT was well tolerated and resulted in early, significant improvements in hydration and visible improvements in skin brightness, texture, fine lines/wrinkles, and erythema at 8 weeks.

Efficacy and safety of a 3-in-1 antiaging night facial serum containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate through clinical and histological analysis.

BACKGROUND: Changes induced by intrinsic and extrinsic photoaging result in signs of skin aging including altered pigmentation and wrinkles. A 3-in-1 night facial serum (NFS) was developed to treat skin aging by antioxidative and retinoid-like mechanisms. OBJECTIVE: To determine the clinical and histological effects of the 3-in-1 NFS on signs of skin aging, clinically and histologically. METHODS & MATERIALS: Twenty-four subjects applied serum nightly for 12 weeks, and 12 subjects continued an extension study to 24 weeks. Clinical assessment of skin quality was performed by dermatologists. Skin biopsy was performed at 12 weeks to assess histological changes. RESULTS: There was a global aesthetic improvement over the duration of the study: +1.21 points at 12 weeks; +1.25 at 24 weeks. Skin texture, pigmentation, erythema, skin tone, complexion, lines, and wrinkles all significantly improved (P < .05). There was also a significant reduction in photodamage, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkle scores, most notably horizontal forehead expression lines, and marionette lines (P < .05 for all). Dermal and epidermal thickness increased without reaching statistical significance. CONCLUSION: The 3-in-1 NFS had clinically and statistically significant effects on signs of skin aging after 12 weeks, which became more pronounced after 24 weeks.

Demonstration of the Antioxidant Capabilities of a Product Formulated With Antioxidants Stabilized in Their Reduced Form

Oxidative damage from reactive oxygen species is instrumental in aging. Topical antioxidants are used in many cosmeceuticals to provide appearance benefits; however, the activity of these antioxidants may be questionable. This research validated the activity of L-ascorbic acid and L-glutathione in the studied facial product and correlated this activity with clinical appearance improvement following 12 weeks of use. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(1):46-49. doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.3947

Novel interpenetrating polymer network provides significant and long-lasting improvements in hydration to the skin from different body areas.

BACKGROUND: Hydration and moisturization both impact skin quality, directly reflecting its appearance. Signs and onset of dehydration-related skin aging are region-specific and require tailored treatment to be effective. AIMS: To test the hydrating effects of formulas containing a novel 3-dimensional 3-polymer interpenetrating network (3D3P-IPN) to deliver humectants and actives to specific body sites. METHODS: Two clinical studies were conducted focused on the skin under eyes and body (arms/legs). Healthy women ages 25-65 (eyes) or 35-65 (body) with mild to moderate dry and aged skin were enrolled. Study product containing the 3D3P-IPN and tailored actives was applied twice daily for 8 weeks on the periorbital area and for 4 weeks on the body. Changes in skin attributes were measured by biophysical instrumentation for hydration, dark circles, skin color, elasticity and transepidermal water loss, and by clinical grading and subject self-assessment. RESULTS: Significant improvements in hydration and skin smoothing were demonstrated in both studies. In the periorbital region, actives and humectants delivered by the 3D3P-IPN also led to significant improvements in dark circles, fine lines/crow's feet, puffiness, restoring radiance, and overall younger-looking appearance. On the arms and legs, there were significant reductions in crepiness and dullness. The arms and legs also had improvements in tactile and visual skin texture, radiance, and general healthy look. Improvements were immediate and persisted through the end of both studies. CONCLUSION: The 3D3P-IPN provides immediate and long-lasting improvements in skin hydration and overall healthy appearance regardless of the targeted application site.

Development of a new eczema-like reconstructed skin equivalent for testing child atopic dermatitis-relieving cosmetics.

OBJECTIVE: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic inflammatory skin disease, and it has serious effects on children's and families' quality of life. We aimed to screen and evaluate the efficacy of different formulas on relieving of atopic dermatitis clinical symptoms by developing an eczema-like reconstructed human skin equivalent in vitro. METHOD: Some research has reported that thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP) may be a potential therapeutic target for the treatment of AD. We developed an eczema-like in vitro skin equivalent by coculturing the cocktails polyinosinic-polycytidylic acid sodium salt (poly(I:C)) and lipopolysaccharides (LPS). The eczema-like skin equivalent was characterized by overexpression of TSLP and impaired skin barrier function. Three cosmetic formulas with the potential of anti-inflammation and skin barrier promotion were topically applied onto the eczema-like skin equivalent, mimicking in vivo application. The inhibitory effect on TSLP was examined by ELISA. Effects on tissue viability and skin barrier function were determined by 3-(4,5-dimethyl-2-thiazolyl)-2,5-diphenyl-2-H-tetrazolium bromide (MTT) method. CONCLUSION: The results show that eczema-like skin equivalent induced by cocktails of poly(I:C) and LPS can mimic the skin characters of the atopic dermatitis. The cocktails can induce high TSLP expression, impaired cell viability, and skin barrier function. The cosmetic formulas with the potential of anti-inflammation and skin barrier promotion were evaluated to be helpful to decrease and relieve the impact of AD with the decreased TSLP and the higher tissue viability than the eczema-like skin equivalent without any cosmetic application. The eczema-like skin equivalent can be used to screen and evaluate formulas on AD relieving.

Anti-skin aging properties of protocatechuic acid in vitro and in vivo.

BACKGROUND: Protocatechuic acid has reported containing antioxidant effects. However, information on its other biological activities such as anti-wrinkle properties is limited AIMS: The objective of this study was to evaluate an antioxidant, collagen synthesis, MMP-1 inhibition (in vitro), and anti-wrinkle (in vivo) effects of protocatechuic acid (PCA) as a potent ingredient for wrinkle-care cosmetic. METHODS: Antioxidant effect was evaluated based on its scavenging activity for free radicals (DPPH, ABTS+). To evaluate the anti-skin aging potency of PCA, levels of MMP-1 and type I procollagen were measured using an ELISA kit in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. To further investigate if PCA could increase collagen synthesis, full-thickness human skin explants were immunostained with an anti-collagen I antibody. In an in vivo study, 22 female subjects were enrolled in a placebo-controlled trial. Facial wrinkle, especially crow's feet around eyes, was treated with lotion-containing 0.02% PCA for 8 weeks and compared with the placebo. RESULTS: In in vitro study, PCA showed high antioxidant activ ity. PCA also showed potential to induce the synthesis of type I collagen in human dermal fibroblast and skin explants. It inhibited MMP-1 secretion from UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblast. An in vivo study, treatment with lotion-containing 0.02% PCA for 8 weeks significantly reduced the percentage of all skin wrinkle parameters. CONCLUSION: Based on the results of in vitro assays and in vivo skin testing in human subjects, PCA shows potential in anti-wrinkle or anti-skin aging treatments.

A cleanser formulated with Tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and l-arginine significantly improves facial acne in male Thai subjects.

BACKGROUND: Acne is one of the most common skin problems among human populations. A facial cleanser formulated with alkyl ether carboxylate (AEC) and alkyl carboxylate (AC) can improve acne by cleansing sebum on facial skin but cannot effectively remove keratotic plugs in the skin pores. Recently, we confirmed that Tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and L-arginine (Tris/Arg) is able to reduce sebum levels, disrupt keratotic plugs in vitro and decrease pore size on facial skin. OBJECTIVE: To compare the efficacy of the Tris/Arg-formulated cleanser with the AEC/AC cleanser in Thai subjects with acne. METHODS: We designed a randomized, double-blind, controlled, parallel trial. Thirty-four male Thai subjects with mild to moderate acne were assigned to one of two groups: one group used the Tris/Arg cleanser while the other used the AEC/AC-based cleanser twice a day for 4 weeks. RESULTS: After 4 weeks, significant decreases in noninflammatory acne were observed in both groups, yet significant decreases in inflammatory acne were only observed in the Tris/Arg cleanser group. The sebum level prior to and 30 minutes after facial washing showed no change in either group. The average pore size with keratotic plugs on the cheeks was significantly decreased in the Tris/Arg group. More than half of subjects in both groups observed acne improvement but more subjects in the Tris/Arg group noted pore size improvement. CONCLUSION: The Tris/Arg formulated cleanser has a high efficacy for significantly reducing both noninflammatory and inflammatory acne accompanied by decreases in pore size with keratotic plugs in male Thai subjects.

Efficacy of liposome-encapsulated 4-n-butylresorcinol and resveratrol cream in the treatment of melasma.

BACKGROUNDS: We previously reported the efficacy of 0.1% 4-n-butylresorcinol (4nBR) cream in the treatment melasma and synergistic effect of 4nBR and resveratrol (RSV) to inhibit melanogenesis in vitro. AIMS: To evaluate efficacy and safety of a cream which contains liposome-encapsulated 4nBR and RSV in the treatment of melasma. PATIENTS/METHODS: A total of 21 female patients with melasma were treated with the cream for 4 weeks. At baseline, week 2, and week 4, melanin index (MI) of the lesional and preauricular nonlesional skin was measured and two blinded, independent dermatologists assessed the overall severity by 5-point scale. RESULTS: The lesional MI was significantly decreased at weeks 2 and 4 compared with the baseline while no significant change in the nonlesional MI was observed throughout the study. The mean investigator's global assessment score was also significantly improved at weeks 2 and 4. In patient's self-assessment, 8 (38.1%) and 11 (52.3%) patients answered moderate to significant improvement in their melasma at weeks 2 and 4, respectively. No serious adverse events were reported. CONCLUSION: The cream containing liposome-encapsulated 4nBR and RSV was shown to be effective and safe for the treatment of melasma with its effect appearing as early as 2 weeks.

Advances in dermatology using DNA aptamer "Aptamin C" innovation: Oxidative stress prevention and effect maximization of vitamin C through antioxidation.

BACKGROUND: Vitamin C (also known as L-ascorbic acid) plays a critical role in reactive oxygen species (ROS) reduction and cell regeneration by protecting cell from oxidative stress. Although vitamin C is widely used in cosmetic and therapeutic markets, there is considerable evidence that vitamin C easily undergoes oxidation by air, pH, temperature, and UV light upon storage. This deficiency of vitamin C decreases its potency as an antioxidant and reduces the shelf-life of products containing vitamin C as its ingredient. To overcome the deficiency of vitamin C, we have developed Aptamin C, an innovative DNA aptamer maximizing the antioxidant efficacy of vitamin C by binding to the reduced form of vitamin C and delaying its oxidation. METHODS: Binding of Aptamin C with vitamin C was determined using ITC analysis. ITC experiment was performed 0.2 mmol/L vitamin C that was injected 25 times in 2 µL aliquots into the 1.8 mL sample cell containing the Aptamin C at a concentration of 0.02 mmol/L. The data were fitted to a one-site binding isotherm using with origin program for ITC v.5.0. RESULTS: To investigate the effect of Aptamin C and vitamin C complex in human skins, both in vitro and clinical tests were performed. We observed that the complex of Aptamin C and vitamin C was significantly effective in wrinkle improvement, whitening effect, and hydration increase. In the clinical test, subjects treated with the complex showed dramatic improvement in skin irritation and itching. No adverse reaction was presented by Aptamin C complex in the test. CONCLUSION: Taken together, these results showed that Aptamin C, an innovative novel compound, should potentially be served as a key cosmeceutical ingredient for a range of skin conditions.

Evaluation of moisturizing and irritation potential of sacha inchi oil.

OBJECTIVE: The moisturizing and irritation effects of sacha inchi oil were evaluated. STUDY DESIGN: The moisturizing effect on the skin was clinically assessed using a regression study design. Sacha inchi oil or olive oil (benchmark) was applied on the left or right lower leg of the subjects for 14 days followed by application discontinuation for 2 days. The TEWL, skin moisture content and dryness appearance were observed. METHODS: The fatty acid composition and characteristics of cold-pressed sacha inchi seed oil were determined. Skin tissues cultured ex vivo were used to assess primary irritation induced by the oil by examining keratin 1 expression and TNF-α and IL-1α release from the oil-applied tissues. RESULTS: The sacha inchi oil contained 42.3% linolenic acid and 39.5% linoleic acid. This oil's saponification, iodine, acid and peroxide values were 168.58 ± 1.55 mg KOH/g, 203.00 ± 0.04 g I2 /100 g, 1.68 ± 0.03 mg KOH/g, and 1.95 ± 0.26 mEq peroxide/kg, respectively. Compared with nontreated skin tissues, induced secretion of TNF-α and IL-1α and disruption of keratin 1 integrity in the stratum corneum layer were not found in the sacha inchi oil-treated tissues. In a clinical study with 13 volunteers, the improvement in moisture content and skin dryness appearance at the sacha inchi oil-applied site was comparable with that observed at the olive oil-applied site. CONCLUSIONS: The sacha inchi oil was mild to the skin and benefited dry skin.

Development of topical drug delivery system with Sphaeranthus indicus flower extract and its investigation on skin as a cosmeceutical product.

BACKGROUND: Cosmetics are the products used to beautify the skin. Emulsion is a fine dispersion of two or more immiscible liquids. Sphaeranthus indicus is claimed to be used for skin beautification in folk medicine. Multiple emulsion was formulated containing the extract of S indicus flowers. AIMS: This research study indicates that extract of S indicus flowers contains sufficient amount of polyphenols and also possess good antioxidant activity with mushroom tyrosinase inhibition activity. METHOD: Further, stable multiple emulsion was developed and stability testing was performed for 180 days by keeping the multiple emulsion at 8°C ± 1, 25°C ± 1, 40°C ± 1, and 40°C ± 1 with 75% ± 1 RH. Parameters checked were color change, phase distribution, viscosity, droplet size and size distribution, pH determination, and electrical conductivity. Sun protection factor (SPF) was determined which also showed promising results. Skin testing on human volunteers was done for 3 months after biosafety profiling of the most stable multiple emulsion. RESULTS: This also showed remarkable effects. Skin erythema, melanin, and sebum were reduced. Skin hydration and elasticity were increased. There was also reduction in the number of skin large and small skin pores. Skin spot area was also reduced by the use of multiple emulsion loaded with S indicus flower extract. ANOVA test showed that all the effects produced on skin were significant, ie, P ≤ .05. CONCLUSION: A stable multiple emulsion was developed which produced significant cosmetic effects on human skin.

Antiaging and smoothness-improving properties of farnesol-based facial masks on rat skin exposed to ultraviolet B.

BACKGROUND: Farnesol is an acyclic sesquiterpene presents in various natural sources including fruits, vegetables, and herbs. In this study, we successfully prepared a farnesol-containing gel with ultraviolet B-screening and skin-repairing capabilities. Furthermore, the advantageous potential of farnesol-containing facial masks for UVB-caused sunburnt skin was evaluated. AIMS: Thus, the objectives of this study are to design and prepare optimal facial masks possessing collagen production and smoothness-enhancing capabilities for the skin. METHODS: A series of formulations consisting of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hyaluronan, and farnesol were used to prepare the facial masks. The effects of the facial masks on collagen production by skin fibroblasts in vitro were examined. The effects of the prepared masks on collagen synthesis, smoothness, and inflammation of the skin were further evaluated in vivo using two modes (mask administration interspersed with UVB exposure and mask administration after UVB exposure) of a rat model. RESULTS: Facial masks containing both 0.3 and 0.8 mM farnesol improved skin smoothness and enhanced collagen content and arrangement in the skin of rats with mask administration interspersed with and after UVB exposure. The masks containing 0.8 mM farnesol exerted the greatest effects on collagen production/arrangement and smoothness improvement in vivo model. Histopathologically observed inflammation was alleviated, and interleukin (IL)-6 was decreased in the 0.8 mM farnesol-containing facial mask-covered skin compared with that without facial masks. CONCLUSIONS: The farnesol-containing facial masks prepared in this study may have collagen production-increasing, smoothness-improving, and anti-inflammatory properties for UVB-caused sunburn; thus, farnesol is potentially a beneficial component in facial masks.

A high-emollient liquid cleanser for very dry and atopic-prone skin: Results of an in-use tolerance and efficacy study conducted under dermatological, pediatric, and ophthalmological supervision.

BACKGROUND: Emollients play a key role in the treatment of eczematous lesions and xerosis such as in atopic dermatitis. However, studies that show the actual benefits of cleansers are few and far between. AIMS: This study aims to evaluate the tolerance and efficacy of a high-emollient liquid cleanser (HELC) designed for very dry and atopic-prone skin, in the absence of any additional skin care. The product is a soap-free and fragrance-free liquid cleanser, containing mild surfactants and a ternary system of selected emollients: glycerin, vaseline, and paraffin. METHODS: In-use study was conducted under dermatological, pediatric, and ophthalmological supervision in 50 subjects (infants, children, and adults) with "dry to very dry and atopic-prone" skin. The primary objective of this monocentric, open, and intra-individual study was to assess the dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance of HELC after 21 days of using it at least once a day on the face and body. The secondary objectives were to evaluate its efficacy based on a clinical score (SCORAD), assess its short- and long-term moisturizing effect by measuring hydration rates (Corneometer® ), and ascertain its cosmetic acceptability through a subjective evaluation questionnaire. RESULTS: The study validates the good dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance of HELC. Its efficacy was demonstrated by improvements in the SCORAD and moisturizing scores. Furthermore, the product was very well accepted by the subjects. CONCLUSION: The fragrance-free HELC tested in this study for 21 days on "dry to very dry and atopic-prone skin" improves skin dryness and pruritus while ensuring good tolerance.