Peptides as Active Ingredients: A Challenge for Cosmeceutical Industry.

Cosmeceutical field, which merges cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, is nowadays a highly investigated research area, because a scientific demonstration of the claimed bioactivity of new cosmeceutical ingredients is increasingly requested. In fact, an aspect differentiating traditional cosmetics from cosmeceuticals is the identification and characterization of the active ingredients and demonstrating its efficacy in the claimed activity. An interesting group of bioactive cosmeceutical ingredients are peptides, which due to their particular properties, meets most of the requirements presented by the cosmeceutical industry when composing new formulas. In this context, beside bioactivity, two additional aspects have been recently considered, when dealing with peptides as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioavailability and stability. We describe herein novel methods applied in order to enhance peptides skin-penetration and stability, reviewing both scientific articles and patents, issued in the cosmeceutical arena.

Efficacy of liposome-encapsulated 4-n-butylresorcinol and resveratrol cream in the treatment of melasma.

BACKGROUNDS: We previously reported the efficacy of 0.1% 4-n-butylresorcinol (4nBR) cream in the treatment melasma and synergistic effect of 4nBR and resveratrol (RSV) to inhibit melanogenesis in vitro. AIMS: To evaluate efficacy and safety of a cream which contains liposome-encapsulated 4nBR and RSV in the treatment of melasma. PATIENTS/METHODS: A total of 21 female patients with melasma were treated with the cream for 4 weeks. At baseline, week 2, and week 4, melanin index (MI) of the lesional and preauricular nonlesional skin was measured and two blinded, independent dermatologists assessed the overall severity by 5-point scale. RESULTS: The lesional MI was significantly decreased at weeks 2 and 4 compared with the baseline while no significant change in the nonlesional MI was observed throughout the study. The mean investigator's global assessment score was also significantly improved at weeks 2 and 4. In patient's self-assessment, 8 (38.1%) and 11 (52.3%) patients answered moderate to significant improvement in their melasma at weeks 2 and 4, respectively. No serious adverse events were reported. CONCLUSION: The cream containing liposome-encapsulated 4nBR and RSV was shown to be effective and safe for the treatment of melasma with its effect appearing as early as 2 weeks.