Photo Visualization of Skintone Compatibility of an SPF 35 Sunscreen.

BACKGROUND: Visual casts and discoloration are common barriers to sunscreen use in melanin-rich populations. However, photoprotective measures are essential for individuals with all skin types, including darker skin. METHODS: Single-center, 7-day, open-label study of healthy adult females with Fitzpatrick Skin Types (FST) IV to VI and sensitive skin treated with once-daily daily facial moisturizer sun protection factor 35 (DFM SPF35). Subjects completed a cosmetic acceptability questionnaire at days 1 and 7. Photography using VISIA CR was performed at day 7. Adverse events were monitored throughout the study. RESULTS: Thirty-two (32) subjects participated; 31.3% had FST IV, 53.1% V, and 15.6% VI skin. DFM SPF35 was viewed as cosmetically elegant. At day 1, 96.7% of subjects agreed product was easy to apply; 90.0% reported soft skin after product use; 86.7% said it had a lightweight, non-greasy feel and hydrated the skin. At day 7, 93.7% reported no visible white residue on their skin and said the product applied easily/absorbed well. The majority (90.6%) would continue using and would recommend the product; and 87.5% reported the product blended seamlessly into their skin, which agreed with clinical photography. Responses were consistent among subjects with normal, oily, or combination skin. No adverse events were reported. CONCLUSIONS: DFM SPF35 blended well into the skin and was perceived favorably among subjects with SOC after 1 and 7 days of use. Subjects felt it had good cosmetic acceptability without unacceptable white residues or a greasy feeling. Dermatologists need to be versed in products that can be used on a variety of skin types.J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(7):515-518.  doi:10.36849/JDD.8223.

Effects of a Sheer 100% Mineral Sunscreen Moisturizer on Facial Photodamage Across Fitzpatrick Skin Types.

BACKGROUND: All skin tones need to be protected from the damaging effects of solar radiation. Although mineral sunscreens offer protection, they can have a thick, greasy feel and leave a white cast, particularly on darker skin tones. Tints offset white cast and provide visible light protection; however, patients may prefer a sheer option. Therefore, a multifunctional, sheer, 100% mineral sunscreen moisturizer (MSM) with broad-spectrum SPF 50 was developed to have positive aesthetics and deliver anti-aging and skin health benefits to all skin tones.  Methods: An IRB-approved, 12-week, open-label clinical study was conducted to investigate the efficacy and tolerability of the MSM. Thirty-nine (39) females aged 35 to 60 years with moderate-severe overall facial photodamage and representing all Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) were recruited. Participants applied the MSM to the face and neck in the morning and reapplied per US Food and Drug Administration requirements. Efficacy and tolerability grading, photography, ultrasound imaging, corneometer measurements, and questionnaires were completed at baseline and weeks 4, 8, and 12.  Results: Statistically significant progressive improvements were demonstrated from baseline to week 12. At week 12, 23.4% and 26.5% mean improvements in overall photodamage were seen for FST I-III and FST IV-VI, respectively. Favorable tolerability was shown for both the face and neck. Photography corroborated clinical grading, and ultrasound imaging indicated a trend in skin density improvement. The MSM was well-perceived.  Conclusion: The MSM is an efficacious and well-tolerated product for patients of all skin tones who desire a sheer, 100% mineral sunscreen moisturizer with anti-aging and skin health benefits. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(7):538-544.  doi:10.36849/JDD.8082.

DermTok: Who's Talking Sun? A Cross-Sectional Analysis of Sun Protection Content on TikTok.

Despite the widespread interest in dermatology on TikTok, studies have shown most related videos are not produced by board-certified dermatologists (BCDs) or other health professionals. To see if this trend extended to sun protection, we examined TikTok videos associated with sun safety to determine the proportion produced by BCDs. From August 25, 2023, to August 27, 2023, investigators input the following hashtags into the TikTok search bar: #sunscreen, #sunprotection, #spf, #skincancer, and #skinprotection. The top 100 videos in each category were analyzed and categorized based on the content creator. Additionally, we assessed whether videos explicitly addressed skin of color (SOC). Of the analyzed videos, only 16.6% originated from BCDs. Beauty bloggers/bloggers were the most prevalent creators in this category (38.7%), followed by patients/consumers (33.7%). Only 2.8% of the videos pertained to SOC patients. This highlights a gap in the type of educational content generated by dermatologists on TikTok, with sun safety being a potential subject to target within social media. Additionally, the small representation of videos addressing SOC patients underscores the need for more diverse and inclusive educational skincare content on TikTok.J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(7):571-574. doi:10.36849/JDD.8179.

Combination of total glucosides of paeony, narrow-band ultraviolet B, and oral corticosteroid mini-pulse therapy for nonsegmental vitiligo: A retrospective study.

BACKGROUND: The total glucoside of paeony (TGP) is recognized for its immunomodulatory properties and anti-inflammatory effects. This study evaluates the efficacy of TGP combined with oral mini-pulse therapy (OMP) and narrow-band ultraviolet B (NB-UVB) in treating active nonsegmental vitiligo (NSV). MATERIALS AND METHODS: The combination therapy was contrasted against those from a group treated solely with OMP and NB-UVB. Data from 62 patients undergoing TGP combination treatment and 55 without were analyzed over a 3-month period. After 6 months, the differences in recurrence rate were investigated by follow-up. RESULTS: The findings indicate that integrating TGP may yield superior outcomes compared to OMP + NB-UVB alone. Moreover, the patient's oxidative stress makers were significantly reduced after the treatment. The majority of patients in the TGP cohort exhibited enhanced skin pigmentation over the duration. Notably, no increase in side effects or recurrence was observed in this group. Especially, patients with vitiligo on their head and neck experienced pronounced improvements. CONCLUSION: The efficacy of the combination treatment group was better than that of the control group at 2 and 3 months, and there was no difference in recurrence rate and side effects, suggesting that TGP may continue to show efficacy in NSV for a longer period of time by reducing the level of oxidative stress, and is especially suitable for patients with head and neck lesions.

Comparative study between efficacy of Excimer light with topical Tacrolimus 0.1% versus excimer light with topical Bimatoprost 0.01% in treatment of facial Vitiligo.

Loss and absence of melanocytes due to a number of factors is responsible for vitiligo; known to be the commonest disorder of pigmentation. The aim of the current work was to compare the efficacy and safety of excimer light with topical tacrolimus ointment 0.1% versus excimer light with topical bimatoprost gel 0.01% in treatment of facial vitiligo. The study was carried out on 48 patients presented with facial vitiligo. The patients were divided randomly using sealed envelope method into two groups (24 patients each). Group 1 were treated with excimer light plus topical tacrolimus ointment 0.1% and group 2 treated with excimer light plus topical bimatoprost gel 0.01%. Clinical improvement based on the quartile grading scale at the end of treatment did not show any statistically significant difference between groups. The majority of subjects in both groups experienced good to excellent improvement. Only 20.9% of patients in group 1 and 33.3% of subjects in group 2 achieved less than 50% repigmentation (p = 0.889). Our study demonstrated that 0.01% topical bimatoprost gel in combination with excimer light is considered safe and effective as treatment of nonsegmental facial vitiligo with comparable results to 0.1% tacrolimus.

Complications of dermatologic lasers in high Fitzpatrick phototypes and management: an updated narrative review.

This article explores the intricacies of laser surgery, acknowledging inherent risks and complications. Patients with higher Fitzpatrick phototypes, characterized by unique biological traits, face heightened vulnerability during laser treatments. Limited experience with darker skin tones necessitates a higher level of laser expertise and a conservative approach. The study aims to comprehensively review laser therapy's side effects and complications, with a specific focus on Fitzpatrick phototypes IV through VI. We searched the MEDLINE database from 1972 to 2023 to consolidate knowledge. Results illuminate nuanced challenges associated with laser surgery in higher phototypes. In conclusion, this research emphasizes the need for enhanced expertise and caution in laser procedures for individuals with darker skin, offering valuable insights to optimize patient safety and outcomes.

Effectiveness of fractional erbium-YAG laser, microneedling, platelet-rich plasma in localized stable vitiligo patients: randomized clinical trial.

Vitiligo is considered an autoimmune disease, and its treatment is challenging. We assessed and compared the effect of fractional erbium:yttrium-aluminum-garnet (Er:YAG) laser-assisted delivery of platelet-rich plasma versus microneedling (Mn) with platelet-rich plasma (PRP) in enhancing skin repigmentation in localized stable vitiligo patients. In total, 40 patients with localized stable vitiligo were selected in a random manner into two similar groups (20 each). Group (A) was subjected to fractional Er:YAG laser combined with platelet-rich plasma and Group (B) was subjected to microneedling combined with platelet-rich plasma. The procedure was repeated every 2 weeks for up to 6 months. Each individual was assessed clinically utilizing Vitiligo Area Scoring Index (VASI). Fractional Er:YAG + PRP group achieved better pigmentation100% (excellent 30%, very good 15%, good 30% and satisfactory 25%) which is comparable to Mn + PRP where 80% of cases demonstrate repigmentation (20% very good, 10% good and 50% mild). When comparing the VASI scores for both groups after therapy to the baseline VASI, there was a statistically significant decrease [p = 0.001 for group(A) and 0.003 for group(B)]. Regarding the treatment side effects, there was significantly (p = 0.048) side effects among cases treated with microneedling group(B) (25%) than those fractional Er:Yag laser therapy group(A) (5%). Both forms of therapy demonstrated induction of repigmentation of vitiligo, but fractional Er:YAG laser efficacy is greater when combined with platelet-rich plasma.Clinical trials.gov identifier: NCT05511493.

The Skin-Brain Axis: From UV and Pigmentation to Behaviour Modulation.

The skin-brain axis has been suggested to play a role in several pathophysiological conditions, including opioid addiction, Parkinson's disease and many others. Recent evidence suggests that pathways regulating skin pigmentation may directly and indirectly regulate behaviour. Conversely, CNS-driven neural and hormonal responses have been demonstrated to regulate pigmentation, e.g., under stress. Additionally, due to the shared neuroectodermal origins of the melanocytes and neurons in the CNS, certain CNS diseases may be linked to pigmentation-related changes due to common regulators, e.g., MC1R variations. Furthermore, the HPA analogue of the skin connects skin pigmentation to the endocrine system, thereby allowing the skin to index possible hormonal abnormalities visibly. In this review, insight is provided into skin pigment production and neuromelanin synthesis in the brain and recent findings are summarised on how signalling pathways in the skin, with a particular focus on pigmentation, are interconnected with the central nervous system. Thus, this review may supply a better understanding of the mechanism of several skin-brain associations in health and disease.

Exploring the Influence of Cold Plasma on Epidermal Melanogenesis In Situ and In Vitro.

Epidermal melanin synthesis determines an individual's skin color. In humans, melanin is formed by melanocytes within the epidermis. The process of melanin synthesis strongly depends on a range of cellular factors, including the fine-tuned interplay with reactive oxygen species (ROS). In this context, a role of cold atmospheric plasma (CAP) on melanin synthesis was proposed due to its tunable ROS generation. Herein, the argon-driven plasma jet kINPen® MED was employed, and its impact on melanin synthesis was evaluated by comparison with known stimulants such as the phosphodiesterase inhibitor IBMX and UV radiation. Different available model systems were employed, and the melanin content of both cultured human melanocytes (in vitro) and full-thickness human skin biopsies (in situ) were analyzed. A histochemical method detected melanin in skin tissue. Cellular melanin was measured by NIR autofluorescence using flow cytometry, and a highly sensitive HPLC-MS method was applied, which enabled the differentiation of eu- and pheomelanin by their degradation products. The melanin content in full-thickness human skin biopsies increased after repeated CAP exposure, while there were only minor effects in cultured melanocytes compared to UV radiation and IBMX treatment. Based on these findings, CAP does not appear to be a useful option for treating skin pigmentation disorders. On the other hand, the risk of hyperpigmentation as an adverse effect of CAP application for wound healing or other dermatological diseases seems to be neglectable.

Tokishakuyakusan alleviates ultraviolet-induced skin pigmentation by decreasing the expression of melanogenesis-related enzymes.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Tokishakuyakusan (TSS), a traditional Kampo medicine, can effectively alleviate symptoms unique to women, such as menstrual pain and menopausal symptoms, and this effect is believed to be related to its ability to increase the secretion of female hormones. TSS is also believed to be effective against skin pigmentation. However, no studies have examined the effect of TSS on pigmentation. AIM OF THE STUDY: In this study, we conducted basic research to determine the effects of TSS on pigmentation. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Female HRM-2 mice were given free access to a normal diet or a TSS-containing diet for 7 weeks. For 3 weeks starting from the 4th week of treatment, the back of the skin was irradiated with ultraviolet (UV) light, and the melanin level was measured. The expression levels of melanogenesis-related genes and inflammatory markers in the skin were analyzed. RESULTS: The melanin level in the skin of the mice exposed to UV radiation was approximately three times greater than that in the skin of the mice in the non-UV-irradiated group, confirming pigmentation due to UV irradiation. The protein expression levels of tyrosinase (Tyr), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (Tyrp1), and dopachrome tautomerase (Dct), which are important for melanin production, were significantly greater in the UV irradiation group than in the non-UV irradiation group. In contrast, the amount of skin melanin in the mice treated with TSS was significantly lower than that in the UV-irradiated group, and the expression levels of melanogenesis-related enzymes were also lower. Furthermore, TSS significantly decreased the expression of microphthalmia transcription factor (Mitf), a transcription factor for melanogenesis-related enzymes, and the inflammatory cytokines interleukin-1ß and interleukin-6. CONCLUSIONS: TSS inhibits melanin production in melanocytes by suppressing the increase in the expression of melanogenesis-related enzymes caused by UV irradiation. These findings suggested that this effect of TSS is exerted through the combined regulation of MITF expression and anti-inflammatory responses.

Skin cancers are the most frequent cancers in fair-skinned populations, but we can prevent them.

Cancers of the skin are the most commonly occurring cancers in humans. In fair-skinned populations, up to 95% of keratinocyte skin cancers and 70-95% of cutaneous melanomas are caused by ultraviolet radiation and are thus theoretically preventable. Currently, however, there is no comprehensive global advice on practical steps to be taken to reduce the toll of skin cancer. To address this gap, an expert working group comprising clinicians and researchers from Africa, America, Asia, Australia, and Europe, together with learned societies (European Association of Dermato-Oncology, Euromelanoma, Euroskin, European Union of Medical Specialists, and the Melanoma World Society) reviewed the extant evidence and issued the following evidence-based recommendations for photoprotection as a strategy to prevent skin cancer. Fair skinned people, especially children, should minimise their exposure to ultraviolet radiation, and are advised to use protective measures when the UV index is forecast to reach 3 or higher. Protective measures include a combination of seeking shade, physical protection (e.g. clothing, hat, sunglasses), and applying broad-spectrum, SPF 30 + sunscreens to uncovered skin. Intentional exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation for the purpose of sunbathing and tanning is considered an unhealthy behaviour and should be avoided. Similarly, use of solaria and other artificial sources of ultraviolet radiation to encourage tanning should be strongly discouraged, through regulation if necessary. Primary prevention of skin cancer has a positive return on investment. We encourage policymakers to communicate these messages to the general public and promote their wider implementation.

Open-label topical application of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and acetyl zingerone containing serum improves the appearance of photoaging and uneven pigmentation.

BACKGROUND: Skin photoaging and uneven pigmentation are common dermatological concerns. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) and acetyl zingerone (AZ) are potent antioxidants that have been shown to have anti-photoaging and anti-pigmentation effects. THDA is a more stable and penetrable form of vitamin C. AZ is an antioxidant derived from ginger which has clinical evidence for improving photoaging. However, no studies have assessed how they may synergistically act on the skin. AIMS: This study aims to assess whether a serum containing both THDA and AZ can improve photoaging and the appearance of uneven facial pigmentation. PATIENTS/METHODS: This open-label study was conducted on 35 healthy individuals aged 21-55. All subjects were instructed to use three to five drops of the topical serum (Power-C Serum, Image Skincare, Lantana, FL) daily for 12 weeks. Videomicroscopy and high-resolution photography and various skin biophysical measurements were taken at baseline, 1, 4, and 12 weeks. Outcomes included skin tone and pigmentation, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin smoothness, firmness, and elasticity. RESULTS: Compared to baseline, the results at 12 weeks revealed significant decreases in skin pigmentation (p < 0.0001), decreased fine lines and wrinkles (p < 0.0001), and increased smoothness (p < 0.0001), firmness (p < 0.0001), and elasticity (p < 0.0001). Additionally, transepidermal water loss was significantly decreased at 4 weeks compared to baseline (p = 0.01), indicating an increased epidermal barrier integrity. CONCLUSIONS: Overall, these findings provide evidence for the combined use of THDA and AZ to address skin photoaging and dyspigmentation changes.

Treatment of periorbital veins with vascular laser: A systematic review and retrospective case series.

INTRODUCTION: Vascular lasers may represent a promising treatment option for periorbital veins. This article aims to: (1) systematically review the literature on the safety and effectiveness of vascular laser treatment for periorbital veins and (2) assess safety and effectiveness through a retrospective case series. METHODS: Systematic review: Articles that assessed the safety and effectiveness of vascular laser treatment for periorbital veins were included and quality assessed using the Downs and Black checklist. CASE SERIES: Patient records were retrospectively reviewed from January 2020 to November 2023 to identify all patients who underwent laser treatment for periorbital veins. Outcomes assessment included percentage improvement, patient overall satisfaction and adverse effects. RESULTS: Systematic review: Three articles were included, discussing treatment of blue, periorbital veins using a 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser. Patient Fitzpatrick skin Types I-IV were treated with high patient satisfaction rates and complete clearance of treated veins. Adverse effects included pain, erythema, mild oedema, urticaria and blister formation. Quality of included studies ranged from 7 to 14 out of 21 points. CASE SERIES: Thirty-four patients with skin Types I-V were included. Blue and red periorbital veins were treated using 1064 and 532 nm wavelengths respectively. Mean percentage improvement was 4.8 (complete resolution) and patients' overall satisfaction was ranked 3 (completely satisfied). Adverse effects included erythema, oedema, and bruising. CONCLUSION: Treatment of red and blue periorbital veins using 532 and 1064 nm vascular lasers appears a safe treatment option. The procedure has a short recovery time, with patients able to resume normal activities within 1 day of treatment.

The whitening efficacy of a compound formula examined using an ultraviolet-induced skin melanization model.

BACKGROUND: In Eastern culture, a fair complexion is the standard of beauty, leading to appearance-related distress among women with darker skin or facial pigmentation. Women seek whitening cosmetics to enhance their skin tone or correct their pigmentation, but their safety and effectiveness are paramount factors to consider. In this study, we evaluated the safety and whitening effects of a compound formula denoted as TEST comprising astaxanthin, nicotinamide, arbutin, and tranexamic acid. METHODS: Primary skin irritation and skin-whitening efficacy were examined. Three qualified melanization areas were treated with TEST, 7% ascorbic acid, or a blank. Skin color, the individual type angle (ITA°), and the melanin index (MI) were compared among treatment areas. RESULTS: TEST did not induce a skin response and exhibited a significantly higher ITA° than the blank, while no significant difference was observed with that of 7% ascorbic acid. Furthermore, the MI of TEST was significantly reduced posttreatment. CONCLUSIONS: TEST could be integrated into spot-fading and skin-whitening cosmeceuticals or functional cosmetics.

Importance of treating acne sequelae in skin of color: 6-month phase IV study of trifarotene with an appropriate skincare routine including UV protection in acne-induced post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

BACKGROUND: Acne-induced hyperpigmentation (AIH) may accompany acne vulgaris (AV) inflammation in all skin phototypes. Trifarotene has shown depigmenting properties in vivo. This study evaluated trifarotene plus skincare because it is increasingly recognized that holistic AV management should include skincare and treatments. METHODS: This is a phase IV double-blind, parallel-group study of patients (13-35 years) with moderate AV and AIH treated with trifarotene (N = 60) or vehicle (N = 63) plus skincare regimen (moisturizer, cleanser, and sunscreen) for 24 weeks. Assessments included the AIH overall disease severity (ODS) score, post-AV hyperpigmentation index (PAHPI), exit interviews, photography, and acne assessments. Standard safety assessments were included. RESULTS: Trifarotene 50 µg/g cream improved significantly from baseline in ODS score versus vehicle (-1.6 vs. -1.1, P = 0.03) at Week 12, but scores were comparable between groups at Week 24 (primary endpoint). Trifarotene had a better reduction in PAHPI score at Week 24 (-18.9% vs. -11.3% vehicle, P < 0.01). Lesion count reductions were higher with trifarotene at Week 12 versus vehicle (P < 0.001) and at Week 24 (P < 0.05), as were IGA success rates versus vehicle at Weeks 12 (P < 0.05) and 24 (P < 0.05). Patients agreed that the skincare regimen contributed to less irritation, making treatment adherence easier. Photography showed improvements in pigmentation and erythema across all skin types. AEs were more common in the vehicle group versus trifarotene (30.2 vs. 16.7%, respectively). CONCLUSIONS: In all skin phototypes, there was more rapid improvement in the ODS and PAHPI scores with trifarotene by Weeks 12 and 24, respectively. The combination of trifarotene and skincare correlated with high patient satisfaction and adherence to the treatment protocol.

Newly identified peptide Nigrocin-OA27 inhibits UVB induced melanin production via the MITF/TYR pathway.

Melasma is a common skin disease induced by an increase in the content of melanin in the skin, which also causes serious physical and mental harm to patients. In this research, a novel peptide (Nigrocin-OA27) from Odorrana andersonii is shown to exert a whitening effect on C57 mice pigmentation model. The peptide also demonstrated non-toxic and antioxidant capacity, and can significantly reduce melanin content in B16 cells. Topical application effectively delivered Nigrocin-OA27 to skin's epidermal and dermal layers and exhibited significant preventive and whitening effects on the UVB-induced ear pigmentation model in C57 mice. The whitening mechanism of Nigrocin-OA27 may be related to reduced levels of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and the key enzyme for melanogenesis-tyrosinase (TYR). Nigrocin-OA27 also inhibited the catalytic activity by adhering to the active core of TYR, thereby reducing melanin formation and deposition. In conclusion, Nigrocin-OA27 may be a potentially effective external agent to treat melasma by inhibiting aberrant skin melanin synthesis.

Weakened tanning ability is an important mechanism for evolutionary skin lightening in East Asians.

The evolution of light-skin pigmentation among Eurasians is considered as an adaptation to the high-latitude environments. East Asians are ideal populations for studying skin color evolution because of the complex environment of East Asia. Here, we report a strong selection signal for the pigmentation gene phenylalanine hydroxylase (PAH) in light-skinned Han Chinese individuals. The intron mutation rs10778203 in PAH is enriched in East Asians and is significantly associated with skin color of the back of the hand in Han Chinese males (P < 0.05). In vitro luciferase and transcription factor binding assays show that the ancestral allele of rs10778203 could bind to SMAD2 and has a significant enhancer activity for PAH. However, the derived T allele (the major allele in East Asians) of rs10778203 decreases the binding activity of transcription factors and enhancer activity. Meanwhile, the derived T allele of rs10778203 shows a weaker ultraviolet radiation response in A375 cells and zebrafish embryos. Furthermore, rs10778203 decreases melanin production in transgenic zebrafish embryos after ultraviolet B (UVB) treatment. Collectively, PAH is a potential pigmentation gene that regulates skin tanning ability. Natural selection has enriched the adaptive allele, resulting in weakened tanning ability in East Asians, suggesting a unique genetic mechanism for evolutionary skin lightening in East Asians.

A Bayesian network meta-analysis of 14 molecules inhibiting UV daylight-induced pigmentation.

INTRODUCTION: Hyperpigmentation disorders are very frequent, affect the quality of life and may become a psychological burden for afflicted patients. Many anti-pigmenting or depigmenting agents are available with various efficacy and almost no comparative data. 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) was recently proposed as a viable candidate showing safe and effective results on hyperpigmentation control in vitro and in vivo. OBJECTIVES: A Bayesian network meta-analysis (BNMA) was conducted to map and rank the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on UV daylight (UVDL)-induced pigmentation together with 13 other reference molecules. A comparison in the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% was also performed. METHODOLOGY: Fourteen studies were conducted, for each, on 15-30 women of skin phototype III in Shanghai, China and Paris, France. The products were applied on mini zone, in randomized and blinded protocol, on the back, 5 days a week during 6 weeks, at a dose of 4 mg/cm2. During the second week, volunteers were exposed under to varying minimum erythemal dose of UVDL during 4 consecutive days-adapted to obtain a similar induction of skin pigmentation regardless of the population. Assessments were performed instrumentally using Chromameter®. Ascorbic acid 7% was used as a positive control for all experiments. A Bayesian network meta-analysis was then established to map and follow the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% performance with 13 reference molecules (glutathione 2%, kojic acid 1%, hydroquinone 4%, ascorbyl glucoside 2%, niacinamide 4%, etc.). RESULTS: 2-MNG 0.5% dominated the ranking at all time points with a significant high probability of strong efficacy against UVDL-induced pigmentation. Ascorbic acid 7% ranks second after 4 days of irradiations (D12) whereas hydroquinone 4% ranks second 1 month after irradiations (D40). In the kinetics, 2-MNG at 0.5% was effective as from the end of irradiations (D12) to the study endpoint (D40). This suggested an immediate and persistent efficacy across all timepoints evaluated. CONCLUSION: The BNMA revealed a rapid and lasting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting phases of the clinical protocol. 2-MNG 0.5% ranked first, with immediate and lasting effect compared to 13 other references. This study is the first allowing comparison between reference anti-pigmenting and depigmenting agents and will help clinicians for proposing the most effective approach for their patients.

Prospective randomized double-blind comparative study of topical acetyl zingerone with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate versus tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate alone on facial photoaging.

BACKGROUND: Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a lipophilic precursor to ascorbic acid that may be stabilized by acetyl zingerone (AZ). Studies have shown that the topical application of THDA may have photoprotective effects. Similarly, AZ has been shown to mitigate oxidative and inflammatory stress, thereby improving the appearance of photoaging. AIMS: To examine the effects of THDA and AZ (THDA-AZ) on skin photoaging compared to THDA alone. PATIENTS/METHODS: In this double-blind, randomized controlled trial, healthy individuals aged 30 to 65 were included and 44 participants were randomized to receive either THDA-AZ (THDA 5% + AZ 1%) or THDA only (THDA 5%) for 8 weeks. Facial photographs were taken at 0, 4, and 8 weeks to analyze wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and redness intensity. A skin colorimeter was used to assess infraorbital pigmentation and erythema. Self-perception of skin and tolerability were assessed through questionnaires. RESULTS: Average wrinkle severity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 0.75% (p = 0.023) and 3.72% (p = 0.048), respectively, compared to the THDA group where wrinkle severity at Weeks 4 and 8 was increased by 7.88% and 4.48%, respectively. Facial pigment intensity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group by 4.10% (p = 0.0002) at Week 8 compared to a 0.69% decrease in the THDA group. Facial redness intensity was decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 3.73% (p = 0.0162) and 14.25% (p = 0.045), respectively, compared to the THDA group where at Weeks 4 and 8 erythema increased by 27.5% and 8.34%, respectively. There were no significant differences in either group for infraorbital pigmentation or erythema. CONCLUSIONS: Daily use of combined THDA and AZ may improve facial wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and erythema to a greater extent than THDA. While THDA alone increases facial wrinkle severity and erythema, the addition of AZ reduces both.