ASSESSMENT OF A STABLE COSMETIC PREPARATION BASED ON ENZYMATIC INTERESTERIFIED FAT, PROPOSED IN THE PREVENTION OF ATOPIC DERMATITIS.

ABSTRACT

Atopic dermatitis is one of the most common skin disorders seen in infants, children and adults. Proper prevention might slow the atopic symptoms. The purpose of the work was a sensory analysis, an evaluation of moistening properties and stability of emulsions based on an enzymatic interesterified fat blend (mutton tallow and walnut oil) and homogenized at different revolutions and different contents of thickener. The emulsions were evaluated with respect to sensory and skin moisturizing properties by 78 respondents. Stability tests, particle size, distribution, dispersity index, morphology structure of the emulsions were determinated too. Taking into consideration all properties of the emulsions, emulsion IV (containing 0.9 g carboxymethyl cellulose and homogenized at 18000 rpm) and emulsion V (1.5 g of carboxymethyl cellulose and homogenized at 24000 rpm) were found to be of optimum composition. The emulsions exhibited good stability, were highly rated in sensory terms and displayed optimum moistening properties. It has been proven that model emulsions based on interesterified fats containing partial acylglicerols, with optimum carboxymethyl cellulose content and specific revolutions at the time of homogenization are an opportunity for developing preparations targeted at skins requiring special care (e.g., with atopic dermatitis or psoriasis). The work proved the use of enzymatic process to create the emulsifier, which represents the innovative contribution of this work. Also it showed an additional application of enzymatic interesterified fats which since has been used only in food industries.