Development of a facial biocosmetic containing levan, almond and cinnamon oils with antioxidant and moisturizing properties

ABSTRACT

The addition of natural molecules such as microbial exopolysaccharides in cosmetics is a trend in the current market, adding properties and improving the product quality. Therefore, the aim of this study was to develop a facial biocosmetic formulation containing microbial levan, almond and cinnamon oils. The centroid-simplex design was used to evaluate the spreadability, antioxidant activity, moisture retention capacity and viscosity of formulations. Since it is a facial cosmetic, the formulation was optimized using the intermediate viscosity. The optimized formulation with intermediate viscosity was 75% (0.75 g) levan and 25% (2 mL) almond oil, without the addition of cinnamon oil. This formulation was submitted to 90 days under different exposure conditions, and the results showed a spreadability of 805 mm2, pH and density ideal for the facial area, with an antioxidant activity of 72%, hydration capacity of 100.3%, viscosity with no-Newtonian behavior, and normal organoleptic properties when stored at room and low temperature. The formulation with levan associated with almond oil showed potential for application in the facial area, with high antioxidant properties, moisturizing intermediate viscosity and stability for 90 days. The utilization of centroid-simplex design allowed the development of a biocosmetic with desired characteristics just by adjusting the concentrations of the bioactive.(AU)