Sunscreen photoprotection and vitamin D status.

BACKGROUND: Global concern about vitamin D deficiency has fuelled debates on photoprotection and the importance of solar exposure to meet vitamin D requirements. OBJECTIVES: To review the published evidence to reach a consensus on the influence of photoprotection by sunscreens on vitamin D status, considering other relevant factors. METHODS: An international panel of 13 experts in endocrinology, dermatology, photobiology, epidemiology and biological anthropology reviewed the literature prior to a 1-day meeting in June 2017, during which the evidence was discussed. Methods of assessment and determining factors of vitamin D status, and public health perspectives were examined and consequences of sun exposure and the effects of photoprotection were assessed. RESULTS: A serum level of ≥ 50 nmol L-1 25(OH)D is a target for all individuals. Broad-spectrum sunscreens that prevent erythema are unlikely to compromise vitamin D status in healthy populations. Vitamin D screening should be restricted to those at risk of hypovitaminosis, such as patients with photosensitivity disorders, who require rigorous photoprotection. Screening and supplementation are advised for this group. CONCLUSIONS: Sunscreen use for daily and recreational photoprotection does not compromise vitamin D synthesis, even when applied under optimal conditions. What's already known about this topic? Knowledge of the relationship between solar exposure behaviour, sunscreen use and vitamin D is important for public health but there is confusion about optimal vitamin D status and the safest way to achieve this. Practical recommendations on the potential impact of daily and/or recreational sunscreens on vitamin D status are lacking for healthy people. What does this study add? Judicious use of daily broad-spectrum sunscreens with high ultraviolet (UV) A protection will not compromise vitamin D status in healthy people. However, photoprotection strategies for patients with photosensitivity disorders that include high sun-protection factor sunscreens with high UVA protection, along with protective clothing and shade-seeking behaviour are likely to compromise vitamin D status. Screening for vitamin D status and supplementation are recommended in patients with photosensitivity disorders.

Vichy Thermal Spring Water (VTSW), a cosmetic ingredient of potential interest in the frame of skin ageing exposome: an in vitro study.

OBJECTIVE: To study the effects of the very high minerality Vichy Thermal Spring Water (VTSW) on human keratinocytes grown in vitro. METHODS: The effect of VTSW was monitored by full genome transcriptomic technology and immunofluorescence microscopy. RESULTS: In the presence of 50% VTSW, the expression of a number of skin homoeostasis-related genes is increased, specifically with respect to dermal-epidermal junction, epidermal cohesion and communication, keratinocyte proliferation-differentiation balance, antioxidant mechanisms and DNA repair. CONCLUSION: This work suggests that VTSW could be considered as an ingredient of potential interest to address some of the deleterious effects of skin ageing exposome.

Crocin, a natural molecule with potentially beneficial effects against skin ageing.

OBJECTIVE: Oxidative stress and low-grade chronic inflammation stand out as key features of physiological skin ageing. The aim of this study was to examine in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) grown in vitro, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of crocin, a carotenoid glycoside responsible for the colour of saffron. Moreover, considering the newly emerging field of skin glycobiology and the presence of two gentiobiosyl moieties in crocin, the effect of crocin on NHEK glycosylation pathways was for the first time investigated. METHODS: The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities of crocin were evaluated by in vitro assays of antioxidation activities, ELISA and microarray analysis. The effect of crocin on keratinocyte glycobiology was evaluated by proprietary GLYcoDiag lectin technologies and microarray analysis. RESULTS: Crocin is endowed with antioxidant potential against reactive oxygen species, protects squalene against UVA-induced peroxidation and prevents the release of inflammatory mediators. The expression of NF-kB-related genes and glycosylation-related genes is modulated in the presence of crocin. CONCLUSION: Results could designate this molecule as a promising skin ageing prevention cosmetic agent. Of note, some of these effects could be mediated by protein O-glycosylation and interaction of crocin with osidic receptors of keratinocytes.

Age-dependent changes in eumelanin composition in hairs of various ethnic origins.

Hair pigmentation is one of the most conspicuous phenotypes of humans. From a chemical point of view, however, data remain scarce regarding human hair pigmentation characteristics. To determine melanin content and composition in human eumelanic hair from individuals of different ethnic origins and at different ages, we collected hair from 56 subjects with eumelanic hair from each group of African-American, East Asian, and Caucasian origin. The 56 subjects consist of 14, seven each of males and females, each from four age classes of younger than 11, between 12 and 19, between 20 and 45, and older than 46. We analysed hair colour scale, total melanin value, and contents of pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) and pyrrole-2,3-dicarboxylic acid (PDCA). We measured age-dependent increases in the relative quantity of eumelanin in pigmented human hairs in the three ethnic groups. Regarding melanin composition, we observed an increase in the PDCA/PTCA ratio with age in African-American and Caucasian hairs until approaching the quite constant level of the ratio in East Asian hairs in the elderly individuals. Our results evidence differences in the content and composition of eumelanin in human hair among African-American, Caucasian and East Asian individuals. Furthermore, we show evidence of age-dependent changes in the quantity and quality of eumelanin in pigmented human hairs. In particular, the age-dependent modification of the PDCA/PTCA ratio, a marker for 5,6-dihydroxyindole units in eumelanin, suggests a chronological evolution of hair follicle melanocyte phenotype (e.g. decrease in dopachrome tautomerase expression).

Human eyelash characterization.

BACKGROUND: Few biological data on human eyelash follicles have been reported in the literature. OBJECTIVES: To characterize eyelash follicle growth, cycle and morphology, and further investigate the biological mechanisms that determine eyelash length, curl and pigmentation, compared with scalp hair follicle. METHODS: Twenty-nine caucasian female volunteers aged between 26 and 60 years were enrolled in the study to provide eyelashes. Four of these volunteers were followed weekly for 9 months to characterize their eyelash cycle. Eyelash length and time of renewal were measured using a high-resolution camera and image analysis. Immunohistological study of the bulbs were performed on eyelid biopsies from 17 patients requiring block excision for ectropion repair. RESULTS: The calculated durations of anagen phase and complete cycle of the eyelashes were 34 + or - 9 and 90 + or - 5 days, respectively. Eyelash follicle growth rate was quite variable, with an average rate of 0.12 + or - 0.05 mm daily. Eyelash follicle morphology was very close to that of the scalp hair follicle, but some remarkable differences were noticed. For example, the K19-positive epithelial stem cell population was spread all along the follicle and not split into two reservoirs as seen in scalp hair follicles. Some asymmetry was detected in HSPG and CSPG, as well as K38 (formerly Ha8) and K82 (formerly Hb2) distribution, similar to that observed in curly hair. Finally, dopachrome tautomerase was found expressed in eyelash follicle melanocytes, while it was strikingly absent in scalp hair follicle melanocytes. CONCLUSIONS: The eyelash is structurally very close to curly hair but some biological processes related to follicle cycle and pigmentation differ markedly.

Skin responses to topical dehydroepiandrosterone: implications in antiageing treatment?

BACKGROUND: Although low dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) is suspected to have a role in skin ageing, little information is available on the mechanisms potentially involved. OBJECTIVES: To obtain information on androgen receptor (AR) and procollagen expression in ageing skin during DHEA treatment. METHODS: A placebo-controlled, randomized, prospective study was performed with 75 postmenopausal women aged 60-65 years. The women were treated twice daily for 13 weeks with 3·0 mL of placebo or 0·1%, 0·3%, 1% or 2% DHEA cream applied on the face, arms, back of hands, upper chest and right thigh where 2-mm biopsies were collected before and after treatment. RESULTS: Although the overall structure of the epidermis was not significantly affected at the light microscopy level, AR expression examined by immunocytochemistry was markedly increased by DHEA treatment. In the dermis, the expression levels of procollagen 1 and 3 mRNA estimated by in situ hybridization were increased by DHEA treatment. In addition, the expression of heat shock protein (HSP) 47, a molecule believed to have chaperone-like functions potentially affecting procollagen biosynthesis, was also found by immunocytochemistry evaluation to be increased, especially at the two highest DHEA doses. CONCLUSION: These data suggest the possibility that topical DHEA could be used as an efficient and physiological antiageing skin agent.

Chronological ageing of human hair keratin fibres.

Examination of very long hair (length > 2.4 m) using a large range of evaluation methods including physical, chemical, biochemical and microscopic techniques has enabled to attain a detailed understanding of natural ageing of human hair keratin fibres. Scrutinizing hair that has undergone little or no oxidative aggression--because of the absence of action of chemical agents such as bleaching or dyeing--from the root to the tip shows the deterioration process, which gradually takes place from the outside to the inside of the hair shaft: first, a progressive abrasion of the cuticle, whilst the cortex structure remains unaltered, is evidenced along a length of roughly 1 m onwards together with constant shine, hydrophobicity and friction characteristics. Further along the fibre, a significant damage to cuticle scales occurs, which correlates well with ceramides and 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (18-MEA) decline, and progressive decrease in keratin-associated protein content. Most physical descriptors of mechanical and optical properties decay significantly. This detailed description of natural ageing of human hair fibres by a fine analysis of hair components and physical parameters in relationship with cosmetic characteristics provides a time-dependent 'damage scale' of human hair, which may help in designing new targeted hair care formulations.

Expression of transformation-associated protease(s) that degrade fibronectin at cell contact sites.

Virus-transformed fibroblasts show an increased production of proteases as well as loss of extracellular adhesive proteins. To determine whether these transformation-associated events are related, we investigated the capacity of Rous sarcoma virus-transformed cells (embryonic chick fibroblasts and mouse BALB/c 3T3) to degrade fibronectin by using a novel cross-linked protein substratum: fluorescence-labeled or radiolabeled fibronectin covalently linked to the surface of a fixed gelatin film. In serum-containing medium, the coupled fibronectin was not released when incubated without cells, and only a small amount was released when incubated with nontransformed cells. However, when transformed cells were seeded on the radiolabeled fibronectin-coupled substratum, there was a threefold increase in the time-dependent release of radioactivity into the medium. The released material was characterized as peptides with molecular sizes of less than 30,000 daltons. Correspondingly, growth of transformed cells on the rhodamine-fibronectin substratum resulted in the appearance of discrete negative fluorescent spots beneath the cells and along their migratory paths, whereas a uniform fluorescent carpet was detected with nontransformed cells. The release of radioactivity was partially inhibited by protease inhibitors, including alpha 2-macroglobulin, leupeptin, and benzamidine, but the negative fluorescent spots appeared unaffected by any of these inhibitors. However, both the release of radiolabeled peptides and the appearance of fluorescence-negative spots were inhibited by 1,10-phenanthroline at concentrations that did not affect cellular attachment and protein synthesis, thus supporting a role for proteases in localized degradation of fibronectin substratum. These fluorescence-negative spots coincided with sites of fibronectin disappearance as judged by indirect labeling with antibodies to cellular fibronectin. In addition, immunofluorescent analyses showed a correlation between vinculin localization and the negative fibronectin spots found under transformed cells, indicating that degradation occurs at cell substratum contact sites. These results can be correlated with other transformation-associated phenotypic changes, and are discussed in terms of the invasion of tumor cells into the extracellular matrix.

TRP-2 expression protects HEK cells from dopamine- and hydroquinone-induced toxicity.

We previously reported that melanogenic enzyme TRP-2 (or DCT for DOPAchrome tautomerase) expression in WM35 melanoma cells resulted in increased intracellular GSH levels, reduction in DNA damage induced by free radicals, and decreased cell sensitivity to oxidative stress. These effects seemed to depend on a particular cellular context, because none of them were found to occur in HEK epithelial cells. We postulated that the TRP-2 beneficial effect observed in WM35 cells in the oxidative stress situation may relate to quinone metabolization and, more precisely, to the ability of TRP-2 to clear off related toxic metabolites, resulting in a global redox status modification. Here, a comparative protein expression profiling of catecholamine biosynthesis enzymes and detoxification enzymes was conducted in WM35 melanoma cells and in HEK epithelial cells, in comparison with normal human melanocytes. Results showed that WM35 cells, but not HEK cells, expressed enzymes involved in catecholamine biosynthesis, suggesting that their quinone-related toxic metabolites were present in WM35 cells but not in HEK cells. To address the issue of a possible TRP-2 beneficial effect toward quinone toxicity, cell survival experiments were then conducted in HEK cells using dopamine and hydroquinone at toxic concentrations. We showed that TRP-2 expression significantly reduced HEK cell sensitivity to both compounds. This beneficial property of TRP-2 was likely to depend on the integrity of its DOPAchrome tautomerase catalytic site, because both TRP-2(R194Q) and TRP-2(H189G), which have lost their DOPAchrome tautomerase activity, failed to modify the HEK cell response to dopamine and hydroquinone. These results suggest that TRP-2 acts on quinone metabolites other than DOPAchrome, e.g., in the catecholamine pathway, and limits their deleterious effects.

6-O glucose linoleate supports in vitro human hair growth and lipid synthesis.

The hair follicle is a very active organ with a complex structure, which produces a hair fibre at a rate of 0.3 mm a day. Accordingly, the hair follicle is highly demanding in energy source, as the hair bulb matrix cells are endowed with one of the highest rates of proliferation in the human body. Moreover, recent data have shown the involvement of lipids in hair follicle function. As in vitro-grown hair follicle keeps producing a hair fibre that closely resembles the natural hair fibre, we decided to use this model to investigate the role of a new of glucose linoleate derivative (6-O-linoleyl-d-glucose: 6-O-GL) as a lipid precursor and energy provider. Our results demonstrated that 6-O-GL was (i) quite stable and surprisingly resistant to oxidative degradation, and (ii) readily taken up and metabolized by the hair follicle into various lipids, namely neutral lipids, ceramides and polar lipids. Moreover, it supported hair follicle growth and survival in a glucose- and linoleic-acid free medium. 6-O-GL thus appeared to be a bi-functional nutrient, ensuring both proper fibre quality and production by the hair follicle.

Protective effects of taurine on human hair follicle grown in vitro.

Taurine is a naturally occurring beta-amino acid produced by methionine and cysteine metabolism. It is involved in a variety of physiological functions, including immunomodulatory and antifibrotic. Taking advantage of the ability of human hair follicle grown in vitro to recapitulate most of the characteristic features of normal hair follicle in vivo, we studied (i) taurine uptake by isolated human hair follicles; (ii) its effects on hair growth and survival rate; and (iii) its protective potential against transforming growth factor (TGF)-beta1, an inhibitor of in vitro hair growth and a master switch of fibrotic program. We showed that taurine was taken up by the connective tissue sheath, proximal outer root sheath and hair bulb, promoted hair survival in vitro and prevented TGF-beta1-induced deleterious effects on hair follicle.

Reexpression of fetal characters in simian virus 40-transformed human keratinocytes.

Normal human keratinocytes are able to stratify, form cornified squames, and terminally differentiate in tissue culture. These properties are frequently impaired by malignant transformation. In the present paper, we show that, in addition, transformation by SV40 results in the coordinate reexpression of a whole set of fetal characters. Moreover, a comparison of two SV40-transformed human keratinocyte cell lines, one still showing a certain degree of stratification and terminal differentiation (HE-SV) and the other almost completely unable to differentiate (SVK14), suggests that the impairment of differentiation and the intensity of reexpression of fetal markers are correlated. Particularly, a set of three keratin polypeptides, absent in adult stratified epithelia but normally found in the nonstratified fetal epidermis, is present in much larger amounts in SVK14 cells than in HE-SV cells. On the other hand, the inability of SVK14 cells, in contrast to HE-SV cells, to form cornified envelopes seems to be due to the inability of those cells to accumulate involucrin.

Cessation of driving and unsafe motor vehicle operation by dementia patients.

We surveyed 522 consecutive patients from a dementia clinic to assess duration of driving after disease onset and instances of unsafe motor vehicle operation in the preceding 6 months. Among the 333 patients licensed to drive at the onset of dementia, the median duration of driving after onset was 28.6 months. Patients with a clinical diagnosis of Alzheimer's disease drove significantly longer than those with other dementia syndromes. Of the 93 patients still driving at the time of the survey, approximately one third were reported to have had at least one form of unsafe motor vehicle operation in the past 6 months, including 21 patients with motor vehicle accidents. Motor vehicle accidents were associated with use of prescription medications with sedative properties and with lower subjective ratings of the patient's driving ability by the informant.

Adult epidermal keratinocytes are endowed with pilosebaceous forming abilities.

Pluristratified epithelia of adult vertebrate skin continuously regenerate from stem cells, and the question still arises as to whether those cells are committed to the production of only one cell lineage, or in contrast they conserve their embryonic pluripotentiality. In order to investigate the abilities of adult cultured as well as wound healing epidermis, heterospecific fibroblast-keratinocyte recombinations were performed, which allow unquestionable identification of the cells implicated in the structures that differentiate. Adult human cultured breast epidermal cells and full-thickness wound healing from human facial skin and foreskin were associated with either rabbit embryonic trichogenic dermis or cultured dermal papilla cells of adult rat, before grafting onto nude mice for two weeks to one month. In situ hybridization with a human specific sequence Alu probe labeled the human cells, whereas implanted rabbit or rat and host mouse cells were distinguished by the Hoechst staining of their nuclei. The results show that human adult cultured breast epidermal cells are able to form hair buds and to participate in hair follicle formation, while adult healing epidermis from a sparsely hairy skin as the human face or the dorsal skin of nude mouse, or even from a glabrous epidermis as the human foreskin, are able to differentiate pilosebaceous units. Although a follicular origin of the involved keratinocytes cannot be excluded in the three first cases, the formation of hair and sebaceous glands by foreskin keratinocytes of children 2 to 10 years-old establishes the cutaneous appendage ability of the interfollicular epidermal stem cells. The formation of interspecies mosaic follicles also highlights the fact that there must be a significant level of commonality in the interactive signaling molecules used by epithelial cells from different species.

Biochemical characterization of the epithelial basement membrane antigen defined by the monoclonal antibody KF-1.

The KF-1 monoclonal antibody has been shown to identify a noncollageneous component of the lamina densa of the basement membrane zone of human skin. In the present work, the monoclonal antibody and the antigen were further characterized. KF-1 monoclonal antibody is an IgG3 immunoglobulin with no binding to staphylococcal protein A. Two squamous carcinoma cell lines--namely, TR131 and TR146--quantitatively express the antigen. Immunofluorescence techniques showed that the antigen is a cell surface antigen, is sensitive to Triton X-100 extraction, and is concentrated in cell areas from which actin fibers are excluded. Immunoblot analysis showed that this monoclonal antibody identifies a 72 kD polypeptide present in TR131 cell extract as well as in cultured human keratinocyte cell extract.

Abnormal sequence of expression of differentiation markers in psoriatic epidermis: inversion of two steps in the differentiation program?

This immunohistologic study was undertaken to compare epidermal differentiation in normal and psoriatic skin. Although basal cells retain a normal phenotype in this disease, suprabasal layers exhibit abnormal sets of differentiation markers. The 67-kD keratin and Bd5 antigen, which are found in normal epidermis immediately above the basal layer, appear several layers higher in involved psoriatic epidermis. On the contrary, KF2 antigen, which is found in the upper spinous layers of normal epidermis, appears more precociously in psoriatic epidermis. Paradoxically, in this disease characterized by the absence of a granular layer, some markers specific for this layer in normal skin, such as involucrin and transglutaminase, appear in lower skin cell layers, while other granular markers, such as filaggrin, are either absent or found in the parakeratotic scales. These results point out the existence in psoriasis of a suprabasal cell population characterized by a set of markers that are never coexpressed in normal epidermis. The existence of this abnormal population of cells can be explained as the result of the inversion of two steps in the differentiation program. Thus, instead of an inability to express a given differentiation marker, psoriasis seems to be characterized by an abnormal sequence of expression of these markers.

Human epidermis reconstructed by culture: is it "normal"?

Human keratinocytes were grown on a dermal equivalent (or lattice) at the liquid-air interface in an attempt to reconstitute a functional epidermis in vitro. Although the multilayered epithelium thus obtained is well differentiated, as shown by the presence of keratohyaline granules and horny layer, several differences from its in vivo counterpart were also observed: In the reconstructed epidermis, basal keratinocytes do not have the cuboidal shape found in vivo; they synthesize bullous pemphigoid antigen and laminin, but the distribution of these antigens is not linear as in vivo; they contain the plasma-membrane antigens restricted to the basal layer in vivo (VM1, BC1), but these antigens are not polarized; lack of polarization is also evidenced by the distribution of actin. Differentiation markers appear but with a topography slightly different from that of epidermis in vivo; the 67-kD keratin does not appear in the first suprabasal layer as in vivo but above; involucrin, which appears in the granular layers in vivo appears as soon as the cells leave the basal layer. psi 3 antigen and fibronectin found in vivo only in hyperproliferative epidermis (wound healing, psoriasis) are detected. Hyperproliferation would also explain the unexpected straining of basal cells by KL1 monoclonal antibody. Because of the potential clinical or pharmacologic use of artificial epidermis, the question of whether the epidermis obtained in vitro can be considered as "normal" is discussed.

Spreading of psoriatic plaques: alteration of epidermal differentiation precedes capillary leakiness and anomalies in vascular morphology.

To approach the temporal relationship between alterations in keratinization and capillary leakiness in psoriasis, we studied the topography of these anomalies in spreading psoriatic lesions. Histological and immunohistochemical studies were performed on skin biopsies obtained from normal individuals and from psoriatic patients. In the latter case, biopsies were taken in uninvolved skin, in the center of lesions, and at the edge of evolving plaques (spanning uninvolved and involved skin). Alterations in epidermal differentiation were assessed by the distribution of filagrin, involucrin, and epidermal membrane-bound transglutaminase. Capillary leakiness was evaluated by the abundance of plasma proteins such as albumin, fibrinogen, and immunoglobulin G within the epidermis. Typical alterations of epidermal differentiation were already obvious at the edge of the lesions, in areas devoid of vessel abnormalities and leakiness, or significant cellular infiltration. These results strongly suggest that, during the formation of a psoriatic plaque, defects in keratinocyte differentiation precede the development of vascular anomalies.

Activation of cytoprotective prostaglandin synthase-1 by minoxidil as a possible explanation for its hair growth-stimulating effect.

Data from the literature indicate that nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), such as indomethacin, naproxen, piroxicam, or ibuprofen, induce hair loss in vivo. These NSAIDs are well-known inhibitors of both the cytoprotective isoform of prostaglandin endoperoxide synthase-1 (PGHS-1) and of the inducible form (PGHS-2). By immunohistochemical staining, we found that PGHS-1 is the main isoform present in the dermal papilla from normal human hair follicle (either anagen or catagen), whereas PGHS-2 was only faintly and exclusively expressed in anagen dermal papilla. Thus, PGHS-1 might be the primary target of the hair growth-inhibitory effects of NSAIDs. We thus speculated that activation of PGHS-1 might be a mechanism by which minoxidil (2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine-3-oxyde) stimulates hair growth in vivo. We demonstrate here that minoxidil is a potent activator of purified PGHS-1 (AC50 = 80 microM), as assayed by oxygen consumption and PGE2 production. This activation was also evidenced by increased PGE2 production by BALB/c 3T3 fibroblasts and by human dermal papilla fibroblasts in culture. Our findings suggest that minoxidil and its derivatives may have a cytoprotective activity in vivo and that more potent second-generation hair growth-promoting drugs might be designed, based on this mechanism.

Reconstituted epidermis: a novel model for the study of drug metabolism in human epidermis.

The metabolic capacity of reconstituted epidermis from the outer root sheath cells of human hair follicles was determined. It was found that this epidermis possesses enzymes involved in both phase I (oxidation) and phase II (conjugation) reactions for drug biotransformation. The use of model substrates allowed the characterization of several isoenzymes. The homogenate fraction contained membrane-bound mixed-function oxydases (cytochrome P-450 dependent) involved in the O-dealkylation of 7-ethoxy-, 7-pentoxy-, and 7-benzoxyresorufin, NADPH cytochrome c (P-450) reductase, testosterone 5 alpha-reductase, and UDP-glucuronosyltransferases, which conjugate 1-naphthol and bilirubin. One isoform of each glutathione S-transferase, steroid-, and arylsulfatases, acting on estrone- and 4-methylumbelliferone sulfates, was detected. Additionally, the activity of two distinct forms of epoxide hydrolases, which hydrate cis- and trans-stilbene oxides, could be measured. The presence of these drug metabolizing enzymes in the reconstituted epidermis indicates that it has a potential to serve as a model to study epidermal drug metabolism in vitro.