Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial ageing: three clinical studies.

OBJECTIVE: Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides (rice and lupin), hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralising water, in amber glass ampoules with no preservatives (Peptide-C ampoules). METHODS: Dansyl chloride fluorescence labelling compared cell turnover for Peptide-C ampoules vs untreated skin in 32 female subjects. Study 2, an open clinical study, evaluated the efficacy on wrinkles of Peptide-C ampoules by investigator clinical scoring based on Dynamical Atlas visual assessment (N = 40) and subject self-assessment questionnaires (N = 47). Study 3, an open clinical study, evaluated wrinkles by instrumental quantification with 3D fringe projection analysis (N = 40) and subject questionnaires (N = 51). RESULTS: The mean cell turnover was faster for skin treated with Peptide-C ampoules compared to untreated skin (17.1 days vs. 19.2 days; P < 0.0001). In study 2, after 28 days application of Peptide-C ampoules, clinical grading of crow's-feet wrinkles, forehead wrinkles and nasolabial folds decreased by 9%, 11% and 5%, respectively (all P < 0.05 vs baseline). Of 47 subjects, 77%, 64% and 79% indicated their skin seemed smoothed out, fine lines were less visible, and skin complexion was more radiant, respectively. In study 3, the number of wrinkles decreased by 11.5% after 29 days application of Peptide-C ampoules vs baseline (P < 0.05) and 65% of subjects responded the fine lines were less visible. CONCLUSION: This formulation of a combination of anti-ageing ingredients in ampoules, allowing a minimalist formula, showed significant results on improving facial wrinkles and radiance.

OBJECTIF: La vitamine C et les peptides sont régulièrement utilisés dans les produits dermocosmétiques mais il existe peu d'études cliniques sur l'efficacité des formulations sur les signes du vieillissement cutané du visage. Trois études cliniques ont évalué l'efficacité d'une formule anti-âge contenant de la vitamine C naturelle (10%), des biopeptides (riz et lupin), de l'acide hyaluronique et de l'eau minéralisante volcanique de Vichy, dans un format d'ampoules en verre ambré, sans conservateur (ampoules Peptide-C). MÉTHODES: Une première étude a comparé par la technique de chlorure de Dansyl le renouvellement cellulaire avec la formulation ampoules Peptide-C et la peau non traitée chez 32 sujets féminins. La seconde étude, en ouvert, a évalué l'efficacité clinique sur les rides des ampoules Peptide-C en se reposant sur les Atlas Dynamiques (N=40) et les questionnaires d'auto-évaluation des sujets (N=47). La troisième étude, ouverte, a évalué les rides par quantification instrumentale avec l'analyse de projection de franges 3D (N=40) et les questionnaires d'autoévaluation des sujets (N=51). RÉSULTATS: Le renouvellement cellulaire était plus rapide pour la peau traitée avec des ampoules de Peptide-C comparées à la peau non traitée (17.1 jours contre 19.2 jours ; p<.0001). Dans l'étude 2, après 28 jours d'application des ampoules Peptide-C, l'évaluation clinique des rides de la patte d'oie, du front et des plis naso-labiaux a montré une amélioration de 9 %, 11 % et 5 %, respectivement (tous p<0,05 vs baseline). Sur 47 sujets, 77%, 64% et 79% ont indiqué que leur peau semblait respectivement lissée, que les ridules étaient moins visibles et que le teint de la peau était plus radieux. Dans l'étude 3, le nombre de rides a diminué de 11,5 % après 29 jours d'application des ampoules Peptide-C par rapport à la baseline (p<0,05) et 65 % des sujets ont répondu que les ridules étaient moins visibles. CONCLUSION: Cette combinaison d'ingrédients anti-âge dans un format d'ampoules, et une formulation minimaliste, a montré des résultats significatifs sur l'amélioration des rides faciales et de l'éclat du teint.

Structure-function relationship between a natural cosmetic active ingredient and the olfactory receptor OR2AT4.

OBJECTIVE: Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. METHODS: For this purpose, natural molecules were extracted from Cocos nucifera flour. Then, efficacy of this natural extract was evaluated on keratinocyte migration in vitro. Molecules of the Cocos nucifera flour extract were then identified by UPLC-MS/MS. Molecular docking was finally conducted to investigate the potential interaction between identified molecules and the olfactory receptor OR2AT4. RESULTS: The Cocos nucifera flour extract significantly increased keratinocyte migration and results demonstrated that this effect was mediated by the olfactory receptor OR2AT4. Metabolomic analysis revealed two molecules, nonioside D and butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside, as significantly present in the Cocos nucifera flour extract compared to both Cocos nucifera oil and water. Finally, molecular docking revealed that butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside could interact with the extracellular domain 2 of the OR2AT4. CONCLUSION: This study highlighted for the first time a natural molecule, extracted from Cocos nucifera flour, able to interact with the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 and promote the keratinocyte migration and thus the epithelialization.

OBJECTIF: Bien que le récepteur olfactif OR2AT4 a été décrit comme étant impliqué dans le renouvellement de l'épiderme, il n'y a à ce jour aucune donnée concernant un ingrédient actif cosmétique activant ce récepteur. Le but de cette étude est donc d'identifier une molécule naturelle capable de se fixer au récepteur OR2AT4 afin de stimuler la migration des kératinocytes. METHODE: L'efficacité de cet extrait naturel sur la migration des kératinocytes in vitro a ensuite été évaluée. Les molécules présentes dans l'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera ont ensuite été identifées par UPLC-MS/MS. Enfin, des expérimentations de docking moléculaire ont été réalisées afin d'identifier une potentielle interaction entre les molécules précédemment identifiées et le récepteur olfactif OR2AT4. RESULTATS: L'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera augmente significativement la migration des kératinocytes via l'activation du récepteur olfactif OR2AT4. Les analyses métabolomiques ont révélées deux molécules, le nonioside D et le butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside, comme étant significativement présentes dans l'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera en comparaison avec l'huile et l'eau de coco. Enfin, le docking moléculaire révèle que le butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside, présent dans l'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera peut interagir avec le domaine extracellulaire 2 du récepteur olfactif OR2AT4. CONCLUSION: Cette étude a identifié pour la première fois une molécule naturelle, extraite de la farine de Cocos nucifera, capable d'interagir avec le récepteur olfactif OR2AT4, afin de stimuler la migration kératinocytaire et ainsi favoriser le processus de ré-épithélialisation.

Shift in skin microbiota of Western European women across aging.

AIMS: The objective of our study was to compare the microbiota diversity between two different age groups of Western European women. METHODS AND RESULTS: Skin-swab samples were collected directly on the forehead of 34 healthy Western European women: 17 younger (21-31 years old) and 17 older individuals (54-69 years old). Bacterial communities were evaluated using the 16S rRNA gene sequencing. Data revealed a higher alpha diversity on the skin of older individuals compared with younger ones. Overall microbiota structure was different between the two age groups, as demonstrated by beta diversity analysis, which also highlighted a high interpersonal variation within older individuals. Furthermore, taxonomic composition analysis showed both an increase in Proteobacteria and a decrease in Actinobacteria on the older skin. At the genus level, older skin exhibited a significant increase in Corynebacterium and a decrease in Propionibacterium relative abundance. CONCLUSIONS: Our study revealed a shift in the distribution of skin microbiota during chronological aging in Western European women. SIGNIFICANCE AND IMPACT OF STUDY: Altogether these results could become the basis to develop new approaches aiming to rebalance the skin microbiota, which is modified during the aging process.

Lipid organization in xerosis: the key of the problem?

OBJECTIVE: Although xerosis is a common skin disorder among the population, there is no in vivo global study focusing on xerotic skin. Hence, the objective of this study was to characterize xerotic skin from the surface to the molecular scale with in vivo and non-invasive approaches. METHODS: For this purpose, 15 healthy volunteers with normal skin and 19 healthy volunteers with xerotic skin were selected by a dermatologist, thanks to a visual scorage. Firstly, the skin surface was characterized with biometric measurements. Then, the state of skin dryness was assessed by in vivo confocal microscopy. The molecular signature of xerotic skin was then determined by in vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Finally, an identification of stratum corneum (SC) lipids was performed using Normal phase liquid chromatography (NP-LC) coupled to two detectors: Corona and High Resolution/Mass Spectroscopy (HR/MS). RESULTS: Results obtained at the skin surface displayed an increase in the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and a decrease in the hydration rate in xerotic skin. Confocal microscopy revealed an alteration of the cell shape in xerotic skin. Moreover, confocal Raman microspectroscopy demonstrated directly in vivo and non-invasively the lack of organization and conformation of lipids in this skin. Finally, HPLC analyses revealed that the three ceramide sub-classes (NdS, NS and EOP) significantly decrease in xerosis. Altogether, these results identify parameters for the characterization of xerotic skin compared to normal. CONCLUSION: This study highlighted discriminative parameters from the surface to the molecular level in vivo and non-invasively between xerotic and normal skins. These results will be useful for the development of new cosmetic active ingredients dedicated to xerotic skin.

From the morphological to the transcriptomic characterization of a compromised three-dimensional in vitro model mimicking atopic dermatitis.

BACKGROUND: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease in which skin barrier function is disrupted. In this AD environment, proinflammatory cytokines are upregulated, promoting a vicious circle of inflammation. Although several three-dimensional in vitro models mimicking AD have been published, no study has presented a fully characterized and controlled model of AD-related inflammation. OBJECTIVES: To develop and characterize, from the morphological to the molecular level, a compromised reconstructed epidermis (RE) mimicking AD-related inflammation in vitro. METHODS: Normal human keratinocytes were used to generate RE, treated or not with an inflammatory cocktail (polyinosinic-polycytidylic acid, tumour necrosis factor-α, interleukin-4 and interleukin-13). RESULTS: The inflammatory cocktail induces some modifications observed in patients with AD: (i) it leads to spongiosis; (ii) it alters early and terminal differentiation proteins; (iii) it increases thymic stromal lymphopoietin and interleukin-8 secretion by keratinocytes and (iv) it results in a specific gene expression pattern. CONCLUSIONS: The inflammatory context contributes to the morphological, functional and transcriptomic changes observed in AD skin. As a result, this compromised RE model shares some characteristics with those found in AD skin and thus can be used as a relevant tool for screening formulations and drugs for the treatment of AD.