Toxicity of topically applied drugs beyond skin irritation: Static skin model vs. Two organs-on-a-chip.

Skin model cultivation under static conditions limits the observation of the toxicity to this single organ. Biology-inspired microphysiological systems associating skin with a liver in the same circulating medium provide a more comprehensive insight into systemic substance toxicity; however, its advantages or limitations for topical substance toxicity remain unknown. Herein, we performed topical (OECD test guideline no. 439) and systemic administration of terbinafine in reconstructed human skin (RHS) vs. a RHS plus liver model cultured in TissUse' HUMIMIC Chip2 (Chip2). Aiming for a more detailed insight into the cutaneous substance irritancy/toxicity, we assessed more than the MTT cell viability: lactate dehydrogenase (LDH), lactate and glucose levels, as well as inherent gene expressions. Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) was the topical irritant positive control. We confirmed SDS irritancy in both static RHS and Chip2 culture by the damage in the morphology, reduction in the lactate production and lower glucose consumption. In the static RHS, the SDS-treated tissues also released significantly high LDH (82%; p < 0.05) and significantly lower IL-6 release (p < 0.05), corroborating with the other metabolic levels. In both static RHS and Chip2 conditions, we confirmed absence of irritancy or systemic toxicity by LDH, glucose or lactate levels for topical 1% and 5% terbinafine and systemic 0.1% terbinafine treatment. However, topical 5% terbinafine treatment in the Chip2 upregulated IL-1α in the RHS, unbalanced apoptotic and proliferative cell ratios in the liver and significantly increased its expression of CYP1A2 and 3A4 enzymes (p < 0.05), proving that it has passed the RHS barrier promoting a liver impact. Systemic 0.1% terbinafine treatment in the Chip2 increased RHS expression of EGFR, increased apoptotic cells in the liver, downregulated liver albumin expression and upregulated CYP2C9 significantly (p < 0.05), acting as an effective hepatotoxic terbinafine control. The combination of the RHS and liver model in the Chip2 allowed a more sensitive assessment of skin and hepatic effects caused by chemicals able to pass the skin (5% terbinafine and SDS) and after systemic 0.1% terbinafine application. The present study opens up a more complex approach based on the microphysiological system to assess more than a skin irritation process.

Skin penetration of epigallocatechin-3-gallate and quercetin from green tea and Ginkgo biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations.

Green tea (Camellia sinensis) and Ginkgo biloba extracts in cosmetic formulations have been suggested to protect the skin against UV-induced damage and skin ageing. Thus, it is very important to assess the human skin penetration of their major flavonoids to verify if they penetrate and remain in the skin to exert their proposed effects. The aim of this study was to evaluate the human skin penetration of epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations. This study was conducted with fresh dermatomed human Caucasian skin from abdominal surgery mounted on static Franz diffusion cells. Skin samples were mounted between two diffusion half-cells and 10 mg/cm(2) of formulations supplemented with 6% of green tea or G. biloba extract were applied on the skin surface. The receptor fluid was removed after 6 and 24 h and analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography for the quantification of the flavonoids. The stratum corneum was removed by tape stripping and immersed in methanol and the epidermis was mechanically separated from the dermis and triturated in methanol to extract EGCG and quercetin. The results showed that the flavonoids under study penetrated into the skin, without reaching the receptor fluid. The majority of EGCG was quantified in the stratum corneum (0.87 microg/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentrations found in viable epidermis (0.54 microg/cm(2)) and in the dermis (0.38 microg/cm(2)). The majority of quercetin was quantified in the viable epidermis (0.23 microg/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentration found in the stratum corneum layer (0.17 microg/cm(2)). Finally, it can be concluded that EGCG and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations presented good skin penetration and retention, which can favor their skin effects.

Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitamins.

Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract (SCE) is used in cosmetics since it can act in oxidative stress and improve skin conditions. This study investigated dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing SCE and/or vitamins A, C and E. The formulation studied was supplemented or not (F1: vehicle) with vitamins A, C and E esters (F2) or with SCE (F3) or with the combination of vitamins and SCE (F4). Formulations were patch tested on back skin of volunteers. For efficacy studies, formulations were applied on volunteers and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture (SM), skin microrelief (SMR) and free radicals protection were analysed after 3h, 15 and 30 days of application. Volunteers were also asked about efficacy perception. It was observed that F4 provoked a slight erythema in one volunteer. All formulations enhanced forearm SM. Only F3 and F4 presented long term effects on SMR and showed higher texture values; F3 had the highest brightness values. Our results suggest that vitamins and SCE showed effects in SM and SMR. Only formulations containing SC had long term effects in the improvement of SMR. Thus, these kinds of evaluations are very important in cosmetics development to evaluate the best risk and benefit correlation.

Photostability and efficacy studies of topical formulations containing UV-filters combination and vitamins A, C and E.

It is already known that the photostability of a sunscreen is important for its performance on human skin. On the other hand, there are many formulations besides sunscreens containing combinations of UV-filters and daily use active substances with other claims like hydration and anti-aging effects. Vitamins A, C and E are frequently added in these kinds of products and it is not known if the UV-filters have some influence on the hydration and anti-aging effects of these vitamins on the skin as well as on their stability mainly when photounstable UV-filters like avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate are present in the formulation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of two different UV-filters combinations, a photostable and a photounstable one, on the photostability as well as on the efficacy of a formulation containing vitamin A, C and E derivatives. The formulations that were investigated contained or not (vehicle: formulation 1) a combination of 0.6 % (w/w) vitamin A palmitate (1,700,000 UI/g), 2 % (w/w) vitamin E acetate and 2% (w/w) ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (formulation 2) supplemented with a photounstable UV filter combination octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), avobenzone (AVB) and 4-methylbenzilidene camphor (MBC) (formulation 3) or with a photostable UV filter combination OMC, benzophenone-3 (BP-3) and octocrylene (OC) (formulation 4). In the photostability studies, all formulations were spread onto a glass plate and exposed to UVA/UVB irradiation. The filter components and vitamins were quantified by HPLC analysis with detection at 325 and 235 nm and by spectrophotometry. To simulate the effects of these formulations daily use, all of them (formulations 1-4) were applied on the dorsum of hairless mice, which were submitted to a controlled light-dark cycle (and were not irradiated), once a day for 5 days. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), water content of the stratum corneum and viscoelastic properties of the skin were analyzed by using different non-invasive Biophysics Techniques in order to evaluate hydration and anti-aging effects of these formulations as well as erythema to assess skin irritation. Histopathology, viable epidermal thickness as well as the number of epidermal cell layers were also evaluated. It was observed that both UV filters combinations (photounstable one containing OMC, AVB and MBC and photostable one containing OMC, BP-3 and OC) enhanced vitamin A photostability and F4 was more photostable than F3, in terms of vitamin A. In vivo efficacy studies showed that F2, F3 and F4 enhanced the viable epidermal thickness, the number of epidermal cell layers, TEWL and Uv/Ue parameter, when compared to the vehicle, which can suggest that they enhanced viable epidermis hydration and acted in cell renewal. However formulation 2 (containing only vitamins), which was the most photounstable formulation, provoked an irritation on hairless mouse skin, and consequently it cannot be considered as safe as the other formulations. It can be concluded that both UV filters combinations did not influence the hydration and anti-aging effects of the formulations containing the vitamins under study and reduced the skin irritation observed when the vitamins were present in the formulation. In addition, the photostable UV-filters combination had the highest recovery of vitamin A in the photostability studies. Finally, it could be suggested that the presence of UV-filters can be considered interesting for the reduction of skin irritation and the most suitable formulation was the one containing the combinations of vitamins A, C and E with photostable UV-filters.

Evaluation of the photostability of different UV filter combinations in a sunscreen.

Development of photostable sunscreens is extremely important to preserve the UV protective capacity and to prevent the reactive intermediates of photounstable filter substances behaving as photo-oxidants when coming into direct contact with the skin. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate the photostability of four different UV filter combinations in a sunscreen by using HPLC analysis and spectrophotometry. The formulations that were investigated included four different UV filter combinations often used in SPF 15 sunscreens. The UV filter combinations were: octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), benzophenone-3 (BP-3) and octyl salicylate (OS) (formulation 1); OMC, avobenzone (AVB) and 4-methylbenzilidene camphor (MBC) (formulation 2); OMC, BP-3 and octocrylene (OC) (formulation 3); OMC, AVB and OC (formulation 4). In the photostability studies, 40 mg of each formulation were spread onto a glass plate and left to dry before exposure to different UVA/UVB irradiation. Exposed samples were then immersed in isopropanol and the dried film dissolved ultrasonically. The filter components in the resulting solution were quantified by HPLC analysis with detection at 325 nm and by spectrophotometry. In this study, the four UV filter combinations showed different photostability profiles and the best one was formulation 3 (OMC, BP-3 and OC), followed by formulations 4, 1 and 2. In addition, OC improved the photostability of OMC, AVB and BP-3.

Epidermal effects of tretinoin and isotretinoin: influence of isomerism.

The efficacy of tretinoin is well established in the treatment of acne and photoaged skin, however as a typical side effect of tretinoin treatment most patients develop a low-grade irritant dermatitis. Since isotretinoin topical treatment usually shows much lower incidence and intensity of adverse effects than tretinoin topical treatment, histological studies are needed to scientifically evaluate the effects of isotretinoin application on epidermis and also to assess if it can be used in anti-aging products as an alternative to tretinoin. Thus, the aim of this study was to compare the effects of topical use of tretinoin or isotretinoin on hairless mice epidermis, using appropriate histopathological and histometric techniques, in order to evaluate the influence of isomerism on skin effects. For this, gel cream formulations containing or not 0.05% tretinoin or 0.05% isotretinoin were applied in the dorsum of hairless mice, once a day for seven days. Histopathological evaluation, viable epidermal and horny layer thicknesses as well as the number of epidermal cell layers were determined. Our results showed that tretinoin and isotretinoin were effective in the enhancement of viable epidermis thickness and number of epidermal cell layers, suggesting that they could be used for stimulation of cellular renewal. However isomerism influenced skin effects since isotretinoin had more pronounced effects than tretinoin in viable epidermis. In addition only isotretinoin treatment enhanced horny layer thickness when compared to the gel cream treatment.

Trans-resveratrol and beta-carotene from sunscreens penetrate viable skin layers and reduce cutaneous penetration of UV-filters.

Cutaneous permeation is a critical parameter when topical application of sunscreens containing antioxidants is considered. The aim of this study was to evaluate the cutaneous penetration of most marketed UV-filters combined with trans-resveratrol (RES) and beta-carotene (BTC) since few studies report skin penetration when such compounds are applied. Formulations containing octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate, avobenzone and bemotrizinole were prepared and supplemented or not with BTC, or with RES, or with both compounds in combination. Penetration studies were performed using Franz vertical diffusion cells and porcine ear skin as the biological membrane. The quantification of UV-filters and antioxidants in the stratum corneum (SC), viable epidermis plus dermis and receptor fluid was performed by HPLC. Results suggested that UV-filters and antioxidants did not permeate the skin but were retained for 12h post application. About 90% and 80%, respectively, of the total penetrated amount of UV-filters and antioxidants was found in the SC. Interestingly, it was observed that BTC, alone or combined with RES, reduced the skin retention of UV-filters on average by 63%. In conclusion, this study demonstrated that the combination of antioxidants and UV-filters in sunscreens is advantageous for cutaneous penetration, since BTC and BTC+RES improved sunscreen safety by reducing delivery of the four UV-filters in the study into SC and viable epidermis.

In vivo photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing UV filters, vitamins, Ginkgo biloba and red algae extracts.

The aim of this study was to assess the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing UV filters, red algae, Porphyra umbilicalis, extracts and combinations of the extract with vitamins and Ginkgo biloba through the use of in vivo preclinical studies. For this study, 4 groups of 4 hairless mice each were treated with topical formulations applied on the dorsum for 5 days as follows: group 1 - control (no treatment); group 2 - application of the formulation F (sunscreen formulation containing only UV filters); group 3 - application of the formulation FA (sunscreen formulation with red algae extract); and group 4 - application of the formulation FVGA (sunscreen formulation with red algae extract, G. biloba and vitamins A, C and E). The effects of these formulations were evaluated by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema index. Apoptosis was detected by immunohistochemical staining with anti-p53 and anti-caspase-3 antibodies. The results showed that the formulations protected the skin from erythema when exposed to UV radiation. The group that received the formulation FVGA presented a greater TEWL than did the other groups, suggesting that this formulation was involved in cell renewal. Immunohistochemical analysis showed that UV radiation caused an increase in the expression of p53 and active caspase-3, confirming that the damage caused by UV radiation exposure led to apoptosis. The application of all formulations studied resulted in a statistically significant reduction in the expression of p53 and caspase-3, with a more pronounced effect observed following treatment with FA. In conclusion, extracts from the red algae P. umbilicalis could be considered effective ingredients to be used in sunscreen formulations. The combination of vitamins A, E, C and G. biloba along with red algae extracts can improve significantly the performance of the sunscreens, preventing UV-induced DNA damage and inflammation. Thus, they should be considered an interesting combination for an effective photoprotective formulation with anti-aging properties.

Rheological behavior and the SPF of sunscreens.

Due to a large variety of sunscreens, it is important to study among other things, the effect of the vehicle on the thickness and uniformity of sunscreen films. In this study, we determined the physical stability of five sunscreens SPF 15 (FA to FG), containing or not PVP/eicosene crosspolymer (PVP/EC), and two different self-emulsifying bases (SEB), and also evaluated the influence of the vehicle in their SPF. In the study of physical stability, formulations were stored at 25, 37 and 45 degrees C, for 28 days. Viscosity and rheological behavior of the formulations were determined using a Brookfield rheometer. Investigations of the SPF were carried out in a group of 30 volunteers (COLIPA methodology). The FC samples (phosphate-based SEB), with a lower thixotropy, showed statistically higher SPF (13.6) when compared with FB (non-ionic SEB), which presented higher thixotropy and a SPF of 9.84. The FE sample (phosphate-based SEB+PVP/EC) presented the same SPF as the FC, but had a higher thixotropy. The FB formulation (stable with higher thixotropy) showed the lowest SPF while FC (an unstable formulation with lower thixotropy) presented a higher SPF. We concluded that FE was the best formulation showing a higher SPF and stability and the study of rheology can help the development of sunscreens.