Hair transparency decoding in Asia: From stylists' perception to in vitro measurement.

BACKGROUND: The concept of hair transparency has been claimed widely in the Japan (and now it is spreading to Asian) hair color market. Despite the general use of this concept, to date, there is no clear and objective description to accurately explain what it is. In this work, we have decoded and gave clarity to the concept of hair transparency via a technical model (validated for both Japan and China markets) composed of measurable parameters of hair property using a single device. METHODOLOGY AND RESULTS: A comprehensive study composed of various tests was used, starting with a qualitative identification of key parameters via in-depth workshop discussions with over 40 Japanese stylists and a panel of 12 consumers. These identified parameters (luminosity, color visibility, and Shine) were then translated into technically measurable parameters of the hair fiber (Diffused light intensity, ratio of RGB channel intensities of Diffused light, and luster) via a single instrument-Hair SAMBA (a dual-polarized imaging system). Afterward, 10 carefully selected anchor shades were used as visual stimuli in an online pairwise comparison (PC) study with 100 Japanese stylists to generate quantitative transparency perception data of the swatches. Technical parameters of these swatches were measured by SAMBA and consolidated with the PC output, for the creation and validation of the mathematical model. After, with another PC study (N = 100) in China, with seven shades from Japan study and 6 additional Chinese market shades, the applicability of the model in China market was validated. CONCLUSION: We have clarified and quantified the concept of hair transparency through a consumer centric approach and with objective data. Our findings will enable the development of optimum transparent shades which better suits consumer needs. Lastly, we would like to highlight the beauty of digitalization in the study: The digital evaluation pathways chosen allowed us to collect quantitative consumer data from two countries for the creation of a robust model under the impact of COVID-19 and would definitely be the way to go for our future consumer evaluation studies.

Selenium disulfide: a key ingredient to rebalance the scalp microbiome and sebum quality in the management of dandruff.

BACKGROUND: Dandruff is a chronic and relapsing scalp condition characterized by flaky scalp. Environmental and host factors (exposome) may alter the sebaceous gland activity, sebum composition, epidermal barrier function, and scalp microbiome balance, resulting in dandruff. Selenium disulfide (SeS2) improves the clinical signs of dandruff. OBJECTIVES: To investigate the mode of action of SeS2 shampoo during treatment and relapse phases. MATERIALS & METHODS: Two single-center studies assessed dandruff severity, subjective efficacy perception, microbial balance, microbiota diversity and sebum lipids. RESULTS: SeS2 significantly (p≤0.01) reduced scaling and led to a significant decrease of Malassezia and Staphylococcus spp. counts in both lesional and non-lesional areas, compared to the vehicle at D28 returning to baseline levels at D56. Cutibacterium spp. levels were not different between the SeS2 and the vehicle treatment groups but had significantly increased with SeS2 (p<0.001) in the lesional zone at D56. The ratio Malassezia spp./Cutibacterium spp. decreased significantly in lesional zones compared to baseline levels, at both D28 and D35 (p<0.001). The total squalene content significantly increased (p<0.05), whereas peroxided squalene had significantly decreased by almost 50% at D31. The ratio triglycerides/free fatty acids significantly (p<0.0001) increased, almost 5-fold, between D0 and D31. SeS2 shampoo was very well tolerated. CONCLUSION: SeS2 is beneficial in scalp dandruff, even after treatment interruption. It is well tolerated, rebalances the equilibrium between the main bacterial and fungal populations, and improves sebum quality.

Propionibacterium acnes activates the IGF-1/IGF-1R system in the epidermis and induces keratinocyte proliferation.

Propionibacterium acnes has a major role in the development of acne lesions. IGF-1 stimulates the proliferation of keratinocytes via an activation of the IGF-1 receptor (IGF-1R). Zinc has been proven to work efficiently against inflammatory acne and to modulate the IGF-1 system. Our objectives were to study the modulation of IGF-1 and IGF-1R expression by P. acnes extracts and to determine their modulation by zinc gluconate. In vivo, we analyzed biopsies of acne lesions and healthy skin, and in vitro we used skin explants incubated with two P. acnes extracts--membrane fraction (MF) and cytosolic proteins--with or without zinc. IGF-1 and IGF-1R expression was evaluated using immunohistochemistry, and the IGF-1 production in supernatants was measured by ELISA. Then, IGF-1 and IGF-1R mRNA levels were analyzed using quantitative PCR on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). IGF-1 and IGF-1R were overexpressed in acne lesions. MF increased IGF-1 and IGF-1R expression in the epidermis of explants and was associated with an overexpression of both Ki-67 and filaggrin. Zinc had the effect of downregulating IGF-1 and IGF-1R levels. These observations were confirmed at the mRNA level for IGF-1R in NHEKs. These results demonstrate that P. acnes can induce the formation of comedones by stimulating the IGF/IGF-1R system. Moreover, zinc downregulates this pathway.

Cutaneous induction of corticotropin releasing hormone by Propionibacterium acnes extracts.

The skin commensal bacillus Propionibacterium acnes is known to play a major role in the development of acne vulgaris and it is established that this bacteria is involved both in the induction and maintenance of the inflammatory phase of acne. The corticotropin releasing hormone (CRH), a neuropeptide originally isolated from the hypothalamus, is also produced by the skin. CRH has been reported to play a role in the inflammation, the production of sebum and finally the differentiation of keratinocytes. At the therapeutic level, zinc is known to act specifically on inflammatory lesions with still partially known mechanisms and thus could play an important role in the development of inflammatory acne lesions. Our objective was to study the modulation of CRH expression by keratinocytes induced by P. acnes extracts. CRH expression was examined using immunohistochemistry technique on deep-frozen sections of normal human skin explants incubated with two different extracts of P. acnes and with or without zinc salts. We observed that the membrane fraction (FM) of P. acnes increased the CRH expression in the epidermis. This result indicates that P. acnes, by stimulating the production of CRH, can both modulate the differentiation of keratinocytes and increase the local inflammation, arguing that this bacterium plays a role not only in the development of inflammatory acne lesions but also in the formation of the microcomedo in the early stages of acne.