Isolation of an "Early" Transit Amplifying Keratinocyte Population in Human Epidermis: A Role for the Low Affinity Neurotrophin Receptor CD271.

In the interfollicular epidermis (IFE), stem cells (KSC) generate transit amplifying (TA) cells that, after symmetric divisions, produce differentiating daughters. Here, we isolated and characterized the highly proliferative interfollicular epidermal basal cell population "early" TA (ETA) cells, based on their capacity to adhere to type IV collagen. Proliferation and colony-forming efficiency in ETA cells are lower than in KSC but higher than in "late" TA (LTA). Stemness, proliferation, and differentiation markers confirmed that ETA cells display a unique phenotype. Skin reconstructs derived from ETA cells present different features (epidermal thickness, Ki67, and Survivin expression), as compared to skin equivalents generated from either KSC or LTA cells. The low-affinity neurotrophin receptor CD271, which regulates the KSC to TA cell transition in the human epidermis through an on/off switch control mechanism, is predominantly expressed in ETA cells. Skin equivalents generated from siRNA CD271 ETA cells display a more proliferative and less differentiated phenotype, as compared to mock-derived reconstructs. Consistently, CD271 overexpression in LTA cells generates a more proliferative skin equivalent than mock LTA cells. Finally, the CD271 level declines with cellular senescence, while it induces a delay in p16INK4 expression. We conclude that ETA cells represent the first KSC progenitor with exclusive features. CD271 identifies and modulates ETA cells, thus participating in the early differentiation and regenerative capacity of the human epidermis.

Hyaluronic acid detection and relative quantification by mass spectrometry imaging in human skin tissues.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a major component of the skin, contributing to tissue hydration and biomechanical properties. As HA content in the skin decreases with age, formulas containing HA are widely used in cosmetics and HA injections in aesthetic procedures to reduce the signs of aging. To prove the beneficial effects of these treatments, efficient quantification of HA levels in the skin is necessary, but remains difficult. A new analytical method has been developed based on matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization mass spectrometry imaging (MALDI-MSI) to quantify HA content in cross sections of human skin explants. A standardized and reproducible chemical entity (3 dimeric motifs or 6-mer) quantifiable by MALDI-MSI was produced by enzymatic hydrolysis using a specific hyaluronidase (H1136) in HA solution. This enzymatic digestion was carried out on skin sections before laser desorption, enabling the detection of HA. Histological coloration allowed us to localize the epidermis and the dermis on skin sections and, by comparison with the MALDI molecular image, to calculate the relative HA concentrations in these tissue areas. Skin explants were treated topically using a formula containing HA or its placebo, and the HA distribution profiles were compared with those obtained from untreated explants. A significant increase in HA was shown in each skin layer following topical application of the formula containing HA versus placebo and untreated samples (average of 126±40% and 92±40%, respectively). The MALDI-MSI technique enabled the quantification and localization of all HA macromolecules (endogenous and exogenous) on skin sections and could be useful for determining the efficacy of new cosmetic products designed to fight the signs of aging.

E-cadherin mediates ultraviolet radiation- and calcium-induced melanin transfer in human skin cells.

Skin pigmentation is directed by epidermal melanin units, characterized by long-lived and dendritic epidermal melanocytes (MC) that interact with viable keratinocytes (KC) to contribute melanin to the epidermis. Previously, we reported that MC:KC contact is required for melanosome transfer that can be enhanced by filopodi, and by UVR/UVA irradiation, which can upregulate melanosome transfer via Myosin X-mediated control of MC filopodia. Both MC and KC express Ca2+ -dependent E-cadherins. These homophilic adhesion contacts induce transient increases in intra-KC Ca2+ , while ultraviolet radiation (UVR) raises intra-MC Ca2+ via calcium-selective ORAI1 ion channels; both are associated with regulating melanogenesis. However, how Ca2+ triggers melanin transfer remains unclear. Here we evaluated the role of E-cadherin in UVR-mediated melanin transfer in human skin cells. MC and KC in human epidermis variably express filopodia-associated E-cadherin, Cdc42, VASP and ß-catenin, all of which were upregulated by UVR in human MC in vitro. Knockdown of E-cadherin revealed that this cadherin is essential for UVR-induced MC filopodia formation and melanin transfer. Moreover, Ca2+ induced a dose-dependent increase in filopodia formation and melanin transfer, as well as increased ß-catenin, Cdc42, Myosin X and E-cadherin expression in these skin cells. Together, these data suggest that filopodial proteins and E-cadherin, which are upregulated by intracellular (UVR-stimulated) and extracellular Ca2+ availability, are required for filopodia formation and melanin transfer. This may open new avenues to explore how Ca2+ signalling influences human pigmentation.

Notch Cooperates with Survivin to Maintain Stemness and to Stimulate Proliferation in Human Keratinocytes during Ageing.

The Notch signaling pathway orchestrates cell fate by either inducing cell differentiation or maintaining cells in an undifferentiated state. This study aims to evaluate Notch expression and function in normal human keratinocytes. Notch1 is expressed in all epidermal layers, though to a different degree of intensity, with a dramatic decrease during ageing. Notch1 intracellular domain (N1ICD) levels are decreased during transit from keratinocyte stem cells (KSC) to transit amplifying (TA) cells, mimicking survivin expression in samples from donors of all ages. Calcium markedly reduces N1ICD levels in keratinocytes. N1ICD overexpression induces the up-regulation of survivin and the down-regulation of keratin 10 and involucrin, while increasing the S phase of the cell cycle. On the other hand, Notch1 inhibition (DAPT) dose-dependently decreases survivin, stimulates differentiation, and reduces keratinocyte proliferation in samples from donors of all ages. Silencing Notch downgrades survivin and increases keratin 10. In addition, Notch1 inhibition decreases survivin levels and proliferation both in KSC and TA cells. Finally, while survivin overexpression decreases keratinocyte differentiation and increases N1ICD expression both in KSC and TA cells, silencing survivin results in N1ICD down-regulation and an increase in differentiation markers. These results suggest that the Notch1/survivin crosstalk contributes to the maintenance of stemness in human keratinocytes.

Binding of chondroitin 4-sulfate to cathepsin S regulates its enzymatic activity.

Human cysteine cathepsin S (catS) participates in distinct physiological and pathophysiological cellular processes and is considered as a valuable therapeutic target in autoimmune diseases, cancer, atherosclerosis, and asthma. We evaluated the capacity of negatively charged glycosaminoglycans (heparin, heparan sulfate, chondroitin 4/6-sulfates, dermatan sulfate, and hyaluronic acid) to modulate the activity of catS. Chondroitin 4-sulfate (C4-S) impaired the collagenolytic activity (type IV collagen) and inhibited the peptidase activity (Z-Phe-Arg-AMC) of catS at pH 5.5, obeying a mixed-type mechanism (estimated Ki = 16.5 ± 6 µM). Addition of NaCl restored catS activity, supporting the idea that electrostatic interactions are primarly involved. Furthermore, C4-S delayed in a dose-dependent manner the maturation of procatS at pH 4.0 by interfering with the intermolecular processing pathway. Binding of C4-S to catS was demonstrated by gel-filtration chromatography, and its affinity was measured by surface plasmon resonance (equilibrium dissociation constant Kd = 210 ± 40 nM). Moreover, C4-S induced subtle conformational changes in mature catS as observed by intrinsic fluorescence spectroscopy analysis. Molecular docking predicted three specific binding sites on catS for C4-S that are different from those found in the crystal structure of the cathepsin K-C4-S complex. Overall, these results describe a novel glycosaminoglycan-mediated mechanism of catS inhibition and suggest that C4-S may modulate the collagenase activity of catS in vivo.

Human skin keratinocytes, melanocytes, and fibroblasts contain distinct circadian clock machineries.

Skin acts as a barrier between the environment and internal organs and performs functions that are critical for the preservation of body homeostasis. In mammals, a complex network of circadian clocks and oscillators adapts physiology and behavior to environmental changes by generating circadian rhythms. These rhythms are induced in the central pacemaker and peripheral tissues by similar transcriptional-translational feedback loops involving clock genes. In this work, we investigated the presence of functional oscillators in the human skin by studying kinetics of clock gene expression in epidermal and dermal cells originating from the same donor and compared their characteristics. Primary cultures of fibroblasts, keratinocytes, and melanocytes were established from an abdominal biopsy and expression of clock genes following dexamethasone synchronization was assessed by qPCR. An original mathematical method was developed to analyze simultaneously up to nine clock genes. By fitting the oscillations to a common period, the phase relationships of the genes could be determined accurately. We thereby show the presence of functional circadian machinery in each cell type. These clockworks display specific periods and phase relationships between clock genes, suggesting regulatory mechanisms that are particular to each cell type. Taken together, our data demonstrate that skin has a complex circadian organization. Oscillators are present not only in fibroblasts but also in epidermal keratinocytes and melanocytes and are likely to act in coordination to drive rhythmic functions within the skin.

Role of neurotrophins on dermal fibroblast survival and differentiation.

Neurotrophins (NTs) belong to a family of growth factors that play a critical role in the control of skin homeostasis. NTs act through the low-affinity receptor p75NTR and the high-affinity receptors TrkA, TrkB, and TrkC. Here we show that dermal fibroblasts (DF) and myofibroblasts (DM) synthesize and secrete all NTs and express NT receptors. NTs induce differentiation of DF into DM, as shown by the expression of α-SMA protein. The Trk inhibitor K252a, TrkA/Fc, TrkB/Fc, or TrkC/Fc chimera prevents DF and DM proliferation. In addition, p75NTR siRNA inhibits DF proliferation, indicating that both NT receptors mediate DF proliferation induced by endogenous NTs. Autocrine NTs also induce DF migration through p75NTR and Trk, as either silencing of p75NTR or Trk/Fc chimeras prevent this effect, in absence of exogenous NTs. Finally, NGF or BDNF statistically increase the tensile strength in a dose dependent manner, as measured in a collagen gel through the GlaSbox device. Taken together, these results indicate that NTs exert a critical role on fibroblast and could be involved in tissue re-modeling and wound healing.

"You look sleepy " The impact of sleep restriction on skin parameters and facial appearance of 24 women.

BACKGROUND: Total sleep deprivation has a visible impact on subjective facial appearance. However, there is a lack of knowledge on how moderate sleep restriction objectively impairs skin quality and facial aspect. METHODS: Twenty-four healthy good-sleeping women, aged 30-55, volunteered for this study on the impact of sleep restriction (SR) on their facial skin. SR was limited to 3 h per night for 2 consecutive nights. We assessed the following parameters at the same time of day, before and after SR: sebumetry (Sebumeter SM 815), hydration (Corneometer CM 825), trans-epidermal water loss (Tewameter TM 210), biomechanical properties (Cutometer MPA 580), pH (PH-meter 900), desquamation quantification (D-Squameter and microscopy), and image analysis (ColorFace - Newtone Technologies). We also obtained skin samples (swab) for malondialdehyde quantification (MDA). RESULTS: We observed that some skin parameters are significantly associated with SR in both the morning and afternoon, including: lower hydration (p < 0.001), increased trans-epidermal water loss (PIE) (p < 0.001), and decreased extensibility (Uf; p = 0.015) and viscosity (Uv; p < 0.001) of the skin. The average pH increased from 4.8 (±0.2) to 4.9 ± 0.4; p < 0.001. For face photography, brightness and saturation also significantly decreased with SR in mornings and afternoons (p < 0.001 for all tests). Finally, we observed a significant decrease in isolated corneocytes after desquamation associated with SR (p < 0.001 for all tests). SR was also associated with significantly increased MDA levels (p < 0.001 for all tests). CONCLUSIONS: Two nights of SR significantly altered the skin and facial appearances in our test group of typically good-sleeping women.

Melanin transfer in human skin cells is mediated by filopodia--a model for homotypic and heterotypic lysosome-related organelle transfer.

Transfer of the melanocyte-specific and lysosome-related organelle, the melanosome, from melanocytes to keratinocytes is crucial for the protection of the skin against harmful ultraviolet radiation (UVR)--our main physiological cutaneous stressor. However, this commonplace event remains a most enigmatic process despite several early hypotheses. Recently, we and others have proposed a role for filopodia in melanin transfer, although conclusive experimental proof remained elusive. Using known filopodial markers (MyoX/Cdc42) and the filopodial disrupter, low-dose cytochalasin-B, we demonstrate here a requirement for filopodia in melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes and also, unexpectedly, between keratinocytes. Melanin distribution throughout the skin represents the key phenotypic event in skin pigmentation. Melanocyte filopodia were also necessary for UVR-stimulated melanosome transfer, as this was also inhibited by MyoX knockdown and low-dose cytochalasin-B. Knockdown of keratinocyte MyoX protein, in its capacity as a phagocytosis effector, resulted in the inhibition of melanin uptake by keratinocytes. This indicates a central role for phagocytosis by keratinocytes of melanocyte filopodia. In summary, we propose a new model for the regulation of pigmentation in human skin cells under both constitutive and facultative (post-UVR) conditions, which we call the "filopodial-phagocytosis model." This model also provides a unique and highly accessible way to study lysosome-related organelle movement between mammalian cells.

A photographic scale for the evaluation of facial skin aging in Indian women.

The process of facial skin aging differs between different ethnic populations. Standardized tools to objectively evaluate facial skin aging in clinical and epidemiological studies in different ethnic populations are needed. We designed and validated a photonumeric scale for assessment of facial aging in the Indian population. A total of 149 subjects were selected from an electronic photographic database of 300 women from the Mumbai region. An expert consensus panel selected nine subjects representing a spectrum of skin damage from none to severe, on the basis of wrinkling and tissue slackening. The nine-point scale, composed of one face-on and one oblique photo of the same subject per grade, was validated by nine independent judges in 99 subjects with a repetition two weeks later. Inter-observer reliability and intra-observer reproducibility were calculated using Kappa coefficients. Validation of the scale showed a high level of inter-observer reliability between the consensus and independent panels, and intra-observer reproducibility between the two evaluations performed by the independent judges. In conclusion, this nine-point facial aging scale is a reliable tool for clinical evaluations of skin damage in Indian women, suitable for use in clinical and epidemiological studies.

Study of fibroblast gene expression in response to oxidative stress induced by hydrogen peroxide or UVA with skin aging.

The skin aging process, implying oxidative stress, is associated with specific gene expression. Ultraviolet A (UVA) and hydrogen peroxide (H(2)O(2)) both generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) making them relevant in the study of skin cell responses to oxidative stresses. To investigate transcript expression associated with chronological skin aging and its modulation by two oxidative stresses, cDNA micro-arrays, composed of a set of 81 expressed sequence tag (EST) clones, were used to probe the patterns of transcript expression in human fibroblasts of five young (< 21 years-old) and five older (> 50 years-old) healthy females at basal levels and 24 h after exposure to UVA (7 J/cm2) and H(2)O(2) (20 mM). At the basal state, 22% of total genes were up-regulated in the older group. Although both stresses led to the same cell mortality, H(2)O(2) induced a stronger modulation of gene expression than UVA, with 19.5% of transcripts up-regulated versus 4%. The aging process affected the response to H(2)O(2) and even though cells from old donors presented higher basal levels of transcripts they were not able to regulate them in response to the stress. Interestingly, UVA had a specific strong inhibitory effect on the expression of chemokine (C-C) motif ligand 2 (CCL2) transcript, suggesting a possible mechanism for its anti-inflammatory and immunoregulatory roles.

Skin aquaporins: function in hydration, wound healing, and skin epidermis homeostasis.

Several aquaporins (AQPs) are expressed in mammalian skin. Some are directly involved in water transport, such as AQP5, which is involved in sweat secretion. In contrast, the physiological role of skin aquaglyceroporins, which permeate both water and glycerol, appears more and more complex. AQP3 is the most abundant skin aquaglyceroporin. Both water and glycerol transport by AQP3 appear to play an important role in hydration of mammalian skin epidermis. In addition, recent data suggest that glycerol transport by AQP3 is involved in the metabolism of lipids in skin as well as in the regulation of proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes. Finally, AQP3 is also believed to be important in wound healing, as a water channel by facilitating cell migration, and as a glycerol transporter by enhancing keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation.

The silver locus product (Silv/gp100/Pmel17) as a new tool for the analysis of melanosome transfer in human melanocyte-keratinocyte co-culture.

Melanosomes are melanocyte-specific lysosome-related organelles that are transferred to keratinocytes of the epidermis and anagen hair bulb. Transferred melanin forms supra-nuclear caps that protect epidermal keratinocytes against UV irradiation. The mechanism(s) responsible for melanosome transfer into keratinocytes and their subsequent intra-keratinocyte distribution has long remained one of the most enigmatic of heterotypic cell interactions. Although there have been many attempts to study this process, significant progress has been hindered by the absence of an adequate in vitro model. During our ongoing study of melanocyte-keratinocyte interactions in skin and hair follicle, we have developed a novel in vitro assay that exploits the specificity of Silv/Pmel17/gp100 expression for melanosome/melanin granules. Using matched cultures of keratinocytes and melanocytes isolated from normal healthy epidermis together with double immunofluorescence, we have determined that gp100 is a surprisingly useful tracker of transferred melanin. Moreover, transferred gp100 stained melanin granules emit a bright fluorescence signal, facilitating ready quantification of melanin transfer levels between melanocytes and keratinocytes. This quantitative approach was validated using known inducers and inhibitors of the melanocyte phenotype. This assay further confirmed that cytophagocytosis of melanocyte components (e.g. dendrite tips) by keratinocytes is one route for melanin incorporation into keratinocytes. Lastly, a role for the recently proposed filopodium as a direct conduit for melanin transfer was substantiated using this novel approach. In conclusion, this assay promises to significantly aid our investigations of the molecular basis of melanosome transfer and offers a new tool for the clinical evaluation of melanocyte modulators.

The use of antisense strategy to modulate human melanogenesis.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES: Skin without significant dyschromia is an aesthetic goal of people worldwide. Current options for lightening skin could have significant drawbacks. The antisense strategy may be a viable alternative. The reactions in melanogenesis are catalyzed mainly by tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. Activation of tyrosinase is associated with phosphorylation by protein kinase C-betaI (PKC-betaI) and formation of a complex between phosphorylated tyrosinase and TRP-1. The aim of this study was to use 2 antisense oligonucleotides to modulate the synthesis of the tyrosinase/TRP-1 complex, PKC-beta, or both by interacting with the targeted mRNA, thus whitening skin by interfering with melanogenesis at the translational level. METHODS/STUDY DESIGN: In the in vitro study, the effect of the antisense oligonucleotides was evaluated by measuring the rate at which dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) oxidase transforms L-DOPA to DOPAchrome in the pathway for melanin biosynthesis. A reduction in the reaction rate compared to the controls corresponded to a decrease in the enzyme activity and, consequently, to a reduction of the formation of melanin pigments. To evaluate the in vivo lightening effect of the antisense oligonucleotides, 30 Asian women volunteers with pigmented spots on both hands applied the test product twice daily for 8 weeks. The test product was applied to 2 marked-off areas of the hand: a pigmented spot (to evaluate the effect of the test product on the color of the spot) and a nonpigmented spot area (to evaluate the effect of the test product on normal skin pigmentation). The lightening effect was evaluated by comparing chromametric and mexametric parameters before treatment, after 4 weeks, and after 8 weeks. RESULTS: In vitro DOPA-oxidase activity was inhibited by 13% in melanocytes treated with the antisense sequence for PKC-BI alone, by 16% with the antisense sequence for TRP-1 alone, and by 36% with the association of 2 sequences. The inhibiting effect with both sequences required the specific sequences with nonreversed polarities. In vivo clinical results showed statistically significant whitening in both pigmented spots and nonpigmented spots when the test product was applied twice daily for 8 weeks by up to 30 Asian women. CONCLUSIONS: The association of TRP-1 and PKC-betaI antisense molecules significantly increased the inhibition of tyrosinase activity on human melanocytes. Antisense oligonucleotides are a new generation of active cosmetic ingredients that offer unprecedented specificity, biological stability, and safety in lightening skin. This is the first report of positive results in a cosmetic based on the use of these new active agents.

Enhancing cell longevity for cosmetic application: a complementary approach.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES: Cell longevity is linked to sirtuins (silent information regulators), which belong to a family of enzymes implicated in gene silencing, apoptosis, fatty acid metabolism, and regulation of cellular life spans of organisms. Sirtuins are associated with genes that coordinate and optimize the functions of cells as cells struggle to survive in a stressful environment, as it is the case for skin cells. This study focuses on 1) yeast Kluyveromyces biopetides in stimulating the expression of sirtuin in human cutaneous cells and 2) the benefit for the skin of an active skin care product containing yeast Kluyveromyces biopetides. METHODS: Silent mating type information regulation 2 homolog 1 (SIRT1) was investigated by immunostaining, Westem blotting, and cytometry on normal human skin cells in culture and on healthy skin samples ex vivo. SIRT7 are mammalian versions of the yeast SIR2 gene. Cellular integrity and aging was followed by comet assays measuring DNA fragmentation and beta galactosidase activity (a marker of senescence). The test product was yeast Kluyveromyces biopeptides. Thirty-three female subjects aged 37 to 64 years (mean 51.6 years) enrolled in the study. Subjects applied a formulation enriched in 1% of the yeast biopeptides SIRT1 activator once daily to the face and neck for 4 weeks. Dermatologists used a graded scale (1-9) to score fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, pigment color intensity, complexion radiance, skin density, firmness, complexion homogeneity, and texture of the skin before and after the first application and again after 4 weeks of use. A Pixel Skin method, based on an analysis of the gray-level variance and surface of imperfections (age-related parameters) from numerical pictures of the faces, was used to objectively measure the skin care efficacy. RESULTS: The yeast Kluyveromyces biopeptides 1) significantly increased SIRT1 expression in normal human dermal skin fibroblasts in vitro (+172%) and in epidermal cells of healthy human skin ex vivo and 2) decreased cell senescence and DNA fragmentation induced by ultraviolet-B (UVB) stress. At the end of the study, facial improvements could be seen on fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, pigmented spot color intensity, complexion radiance, firmness, complexion homogeneity, and texture. Improvement in hydration was significant immediately after the first application. Skin-pixel measurement and analysis show a significant reduction of the gray variance linked to pixel heterogeneity (-4.2%) and a significant reduction of the surface of skin imperfections (-30.4%). All the indicators from clinical evaluation to the objective measurements of the skin show a significant improvement of the aged skin. CONCLUSION: These results demonstrate the efficacy of the yeast Kluyveromyces biopeptides in activating SIRT 1 of human skin cells, improving their DNA resistance and senescence, and of a formulation enriched in this ingredient in treating multiple skin aging signs.

In vivo skin antioxidant effect of a new combination based on a specific Vitis vinifera shoot extract and a biotechnological extract.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES: Ultraviolet (UV) light produces reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin, which accelerate aging by damaging DNA, proteins, lipids, and other cellular constituents. The aims of this study were to 1) evaluate the antioxidant properties of a Vitis vinifera shoot extract on cultured normal human keratinocytes, 2) compare the in vivo antioxidant of this extract in combination with a biotechnological extract (Ronacare Hydroine), and 3) evaluate the efficacy on photoaging skin of a serum based on a combination (Vitis vinifera shoot extract in hydroglycolic solution, or Sarmentine, and Ronacare Hydroine) after a 4-week application, and to quantify the additional improvement given by applying a cream with the serum. METHODS/STUDY DESIGN: An in vitro study was conducted to evaluate the antioxidant properties of Vitis vinifera shoot extract added to cultured normal human keratinocytes. A fluorescent probe was used to quantify cytoplasmic endogenous species formed in response to oxidative stress induced by H2O2. The antioxidant activity of Vitis vinifera shoot extract was compared to that of a solvent control and 2 positive controls, vitamin E and vitamin C. In the first in vivo study, 2 test products were included in a comparative, randomized, single-blind trial in which 27 subjects acted as their own (untreated) controls. Products were applied 4 times to randomized areas of the inner surface of the forearm for one day. The following day, treated and untreated (control) areas of stratum corneum were sampled for fluorimetric analysis. A decrease in fluorescence compared with untreated control reflected a decrease in the level of ROS, in which case the product had a scavenging effect. The 2 products contained a combination of Sarmentine and Ronacare Hydroine, whose antioxidant properties were under investigation. Other products were known antioxidants. In the second in vivo study, 60 female subjects applied either serum or serum plus cream twice daily for 28 days for clinical evaluation. Overall improvement was rated on a quartile scale (0%-25%, 26%-50%, 51%-75%, 76%-100%) and changes in firmness, radiant glow, evenness, smoothness, wrinkles, fine lines, hydration, texture, and softness were rated on a negative to positive scale (-5=worse to +5=greatly improved). RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS: Vitis vinifera shoot extract appears to have significantly stronger in vitro antioxidant capacity than vitamin C or vitamin E. In the same vehicle (placebo emulsion), ascorbic acid (0.5%), Sarmentine (1%), and the Sarmentine (1%) plus Ronacare Hydroine (1%) combination had a significant in vivo antioxidant effect versus a nontreated area. The combination Sarmentine (1%) plus Ronacare Hydroine (1%) showed a higher efficacy than Sarmentine alone. The dermatologic evaluation showed that a 4-week twice-daily application of a serum containing the combination improved the main clinical signs of photoaged skin. The addition of the cream with the serum appears to enhance the serum-induced improvement of most of the skin characteristics.

Modulation of gene expression as a new skin anti-aging strategy.

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES: [corrected] The signs of aging may originate from natural processes or from exposure to the sun, wind, or other environmental factors. To evaluate the anti-aging effects of potential agents researchers must first identify and be able to quantify epidermal markers that change with aging. This paper summarizes the results of studies conducted to evaluate the transcriptional effects of an Aframomum angustifolium seed extract and Malva Sylvestris extract, and the antiaging efficacy of a skin care product containing the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract. METHODS: The transcriptional effect of an Aframomum angustifolium seed extract on normal human keratinocytes (NHKs) and normal human fibroblasts (NHF) was evaluated in vitro with the use of a low-density DNA array technology. The Malva Sylvestris extract was studied with a commercial DNA macroarray and by a real-time quantitative reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction. The in vitro anti-aging activities of the Malva sylvestris extract were compared with those of all-trans retinoic acid (RA), a well-established topical therapy for photodamage and wrinkles. The genes studied were known to be modified by RA. The anti-aging efficacy of a facial skin care product containing Aframomum angustifolium seed extract was evaluated in a single-center study using image processing analysis and in a 2-center study by evaluation of the photographs by the investigator, independent evaluators, and subjects. RESULTS: In general, the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract strongly modified the gene expression profiles of NHKs and weakly modified the gene expression profiles of NHFs. After incubation with Aframomum angustifolium seed extract, the expressions of 3 antioxidant genes (metallothionein 1, metallothionein 2, and thioredoxin) were increased in NHKs, while expressions of 1 antioxidant gene (glutathione peroxidase) was increased in NHFs. Concerning the Malva sylvestris extract, a cDNA macro-array technology experiment with the reconstructed human epidermis model showed that some genes modulated by treatment with the Malva sylvestris extract are also regulated by RA treatment indicating a similar activity at the mRNA level. In the single-center study, a facial skin care product containing the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract significantly improved the homogeneity of the skin. The areas of the detected objects (skin imperfections) decreased significantly on each studied area of the face and the variance decreased significantly over the entire face. In the 2-center study, 28% percent of the subjects reported a greater than 50% overall global improvement in their skin by the end of the study compared to 11% of the subjects after 4 weeks of treatment. Seventy-six percent of subjects said they would purchase the cream. CONCLUSIONS: The authors developed a low-density DNA chip method that permitted the study of the transcriptional effect of Malva Sylvestris extract and of Aframomum angustrifolium seed extract. The gene expression profiles obtained demonstrate the anti-aging properties of these compounds. An in vivo single-center study, performed and analyzed with an assay based on image processing analysis, demonstrated the antiwrinkle activity of a formulation containing the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract. The data obtained in the 2-center study suggests that the cosmeceutical containing Aframomum angustifolium seed extract produces a global rejuvenation effect in terms of redness, pigmentation, and fine lines similar to that noted utilizing an intense pulse light source.