Effect of cosmetic ingredients as anticellulite agents: synergistic action of actives with in vitro and in vivo efficacy.

BACKGROUND: The pathophysiology of cellulite involves changes in the subcutaneous adipose layer and the extracellular matrix (ECM) that supports it together with overlying dermal layer. Cellular mechanisms governing cellulite are not fully understood. However, it is accepted that changes include enhanced lipogenesis, decreased lipolysis, and increased lipid storage within the adipocytes as well as changes in the dermal architecture. AIM: In our studies the ability of cosmetic agents Furcellaria lumbricalis, Fucus vesiculosus, retinoid, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), and a glaucine mixture to stimulate in vitro 1) lipolysis in human adipocytes and 2) production of pro-collagen I by fibroblasts was investigated in vitro. The ability of these ingredients to improve cellulite condition in vivo was also determined. PATIENTS/METHODS: Mature adipocytes and 'aged' fibroblasts were used for in vitro studies. The assessment of cellulite in vivo was performed by dermatological grading and ultrasound measurements. RESULTS: Mature adipocytes treated with combined actives resulted in a significant synergistic increase in free glycerol release. On "aged" fibroblasts, combined treatment of F. vesiculosus and F. lumbricalis stimulated pro-collagen I production. CLA increased pro-collagen I production, but the glaucine mixture had no effect. The clinical study demonstrated a significant improvement in cellulite grading by a dermatologist after 8 and 12 weeks vs. vehicle, and ultrasound imaging showed a significant decrease in fat thickness compared with placebo after 12 weeks. CONCLUSIONS: Our studies revealed a potent cocktail of ingredients that when combined together can act in vitro to markedly improve lipolysis mechanisms and by way of stimulating pro-collagen I can also have an effect on the surrounding extracellular matrix. The in vitro actions of the ingredients were translated in vivo, where a clinical improvement of cellulite condition was observed.

Synergistic action of a triple peptide complex on an essential extra-cellular matrix protein exhibits significant anti-aging benefits.

Basement membranes are thin structures present in the extracellular matrix that provide a supporting framework on which epithelial and endothelial cells reside. Type IV collagen is present ubiquitously in all basement membranes and plays an important role in cell adhesion, migration differentiation, and growth. These are especially important at the dermoepidermal junction (DEJ) in skin. A reduction in the levels of DEJ proteins occurs in photodamaged skin and especially Type IV collagen at the base of a wrinkle. In these studies, the ability of a triple peptide complex (TPC) to stimulate the production of collagen IV in human skin fibroblasts and its effects on photoaged skin was investigated. Fibroblasts, matured to represent "aged" cells, were stimulated for 72 h with the TPC as well as the three individual peptides constituting the complex, and collagen IV production by the fibroblasts was determined immunochemically. The results show that stimulation with the individual peptides at doses found in 1% (v/v) of the TPC did not result in soluble collagen IV production above levels detected by the non-stimulated cells. However, after stimulation with 1% (v/v) of the TPC, collagen IV was produced by the cells (1.4 ng/ng total protein +/- 0.4 SD, n = 5) when compared to control un-stimulated cells (0.32 ng/ng total protein +/- 0.1 SD, n = 5). This indicates that the combination of the individual peptides is necessary to synergistically stimulate collagen IV production. These findings suggest that the TPC could play a role in the strengthening of the DEJ through its ability to produce collagen IV. In order to determine whether these results translated into significant effects in vivo, we performed two studies. In the first four-week study, a double blind, placebo-controlled and fully randomized clinical study on 22 healthy Caucasian volunteers displaying moderate periorbital wrinkles, a significant reduction in wrinkle parameters determined by profilometry was observed over the 4-week period in comparison to the placebo. This result was reproduced in a 12-week monadic study which also showed improvements in expertly graded wrinkle scores. Collectively, these results effectively demonstrate the anti-aging applications of the TPC.

Activation of human dendritic cells is modulated by components of the outer membranes of Neisseria meningitidis.

Neisseria meningitidis serogroup B is a major cause of life-threatening meningitis and septicemia worldwide, and no effective vaccine is available. Initiation of innate and acquired immune responses to N. meningitidis is likely to be dependent on cellular responses of dendritic cells (DC) to antigens present in the outer membrane (OM) of the meningococcus. In this study, the responses of human monocyte-derived DC (mo-DC) to OM isolated from parent (lipopolysaccharide [LPS]-replete) meningococci and from a mutant deficient in LPS were investigated. Parent OM selectively up-regulated Toll-like receptor 4 (TLR4) mRNA expression and induced mo-DC maturation, as reflected by increased production of chemokines, proinflammatory cytokines, and CD83, CD80, CD86, CD40, and major histocompatibility complex (MHC) class II molecules. In contrast, LPS-deficient OM selectively up-regulated TLR2 mRNA expression and induced moderate increases in both cytokine production and expression of CD86 and MHC class II molecules. Preexposure to OM, with or without LPS, augmented the allostimulatory properties of mo-DC, which induced proliferation of naive CD4+ CD45RA+ T cells. In addition, LPS-replete OM induced a greater gamma interferon/interleukin-13 ratio in naive T cells, whereas LPS-deficient OM induced the reverse profile. These data demonstrate that components of the OM, other than LPS, are also likely to be involved in determining the levels of DC activation and the nature of the T-helper immune response.

Activation of human dendritic cells by the PorA protein of Neisseria meningitidis.

The major porin proteins present in the outer membrane of Neisseria meningitidis, the causative agent of life-threatening meningitis and septicaemia, are believed to have potent immunostimulatory effects. In this study, the interactions between human monocyte-derived dendritic cells (mo-DC) and the PorA porin were investigated, in order to reveal the role of this protein in promoting innate and adaptive immune responses. Recombinant (r)PorA induced mo-DC maturation, as reflected by reduced receptor-mediated endocytosis, increased production of the chemokines IL-8, RANTES, MIP-1 alpha and MIP-1 beta and augmented expression of the surface markers CD40, CD54, CD80, CD86 and major histocompatibility complex class II molecules. However, rPorA induced either low level or no significant secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines from mo-DC. The protein potently augmented the capacity of mo-DC to activate both allogeneic CD4(+) memory T-cells and CD4(+)RA(+) naïve T-cells. In addition, rPorA appeared to inhibit the production of IL-12p70 that follows from the interaction between CD40 on the mo-DC and CD40-ligand on T-cells, thereby directing T-cell differentiation towards a Th2 type response. These data demonstrate that PorA is involved in DC activation and in influencing the nature of the T-helper immune response, which are important properties for generating antibody responses required for protective immunity against meningococci and for determining the immuno-adjuvant effects of this protein.