Validity and Reliability of Finger-Strength Testing in 6 Common Grip Techniques for the Assessment of Bouldering Ability in Men.

OBJECTIVE: To determine the criterion validity and test-retest reliability of isometric finger-strength testing in 6 differentiated grip techniques for the assessment of bouldering ability among male climbers. METHODS: We recruited participants at climbing gyms in Sweden and through online advertisements. We included climbers over 15 years of age with a minimum bouldering performance level of 17 International Rock Climbing and Research Association (IRCRA) for men and 15 IRCRA for women. We tested unilateral, maximal isometric peak finger strength in the front 3 drag, half crimp, closed crimp, 35 sloper, 45 × 90-mm, and 90 × 90-mm pinch through maximal force deloaded of a force plate. We analyzed criterion validity, test-retest reliability, and capacity to determine bouldering performance ability using a stepwise multivariable regression model. RESULTS: Women were excluded from the analysis due to insufficient sample size (n = 16). Thirty-two male participants were included in the primary analysis. The median (interquartile range) age in the advanced and elite group was 27 (25; 35) and 23 (22; 32) years, respectively. The half crimp for the participants' weak and strong hand displayed the highest ability to determine bouldering grade performance, explaining 48% to 58% of the variance. In the stepwise regression, maximal strength in the half crimp and the front 3 drag collectively explained 66% of the variance for performance. CONCLUSION: Strength in the half crimp proved the most important performance indicator. The results of this study provide a reliable and valid framework for maximal isometric peak finger-strength testing in advanced and elite male boulderers.

Long-Term Follow Up of Sexual Function and Steroid Levels in Women after Perimenopausal Hysterectomy with or without Concomitant Oophorectomy.

Hysterectomy, most often performed because of bleeding disorders or uterine leiomyoma, is one of the most common major surgical procedures in women and is usually performed during the perimenopausal period on ages 45-55 years. Hysterectomy may be combined with bilateral salpingo-oophorectomy, as a risk-reducing procedure to minimize the risk of ovarian cancer. An open question is whether concomitant oophorectomy, with cessation of ovarian androgen secretion, has any long-term effects on sexual function. In the present prospective cohort study of women undergoing benign hysterectomy, the long-term (10-12 years) effects on sexual function and changes in sex hormone levels were investigated in women having undergone perimenopausal hysterectomy, with or without concomitant bilateral salpingo-oophorectomy. Originally, 491 women (mean age around 50 years) were operated with (patient preference) either only hysterectomy (HYST) or hysterectomy plus bilateral salpingo-oophorectomy (HYST + BSO), and 441 women (90%; HYST; n = 271 and HYST + BSO; n = 170) completed a one-year survey. In the present study, 185 women (42%) of the cohort with one-year follow up participated in the long-term follow up after 10-12 years. Follow-up was with the 10-item McCoy Female Sex Questionnaire and blood analysis of levels of testosterone, estradiol and sexual-hormone-binding globulin. The results showed that specific aspects of sexual function were lower after HYST + BSO compared to HYST 10-12 years after surgery. These lowered items were frequency of sexual fantasies, enjoyment of sexual activity, sexual arousal, and orgasmic frequency. No long-term differences in sex hormone levels were found between the two groups. In conclusion, some items related to sexual function were lower after HYST + BSO in a long-term perspective study, although the levels of testosterone were unaltered. This finding may have implications for clinical recommendations concerning prophylactic salpingo-oophorectomy or for hysterectomy during the perimenopausal age.

The future of biotic indices in the ecogenomic era: Integrating (e)DNA metabarcoding in biological assessment of aquatic ecosystems.

The bioassessment of aquatic ecosystems is currently based on various biotic indices that use the occurrence and/or abundance of selected taxonomic groups to define ecological status. These conventional indices have some limitations, often related to difficulties in morphological identification of bioindicator taxa. Recent development of DNA barcoding and metabarcoding could potentially alleviate some of these limitations, by using DNA sequences instead of morphology to identify organisms and to characterize a given ecosystem. In this paper, we review the structure of conventional biotic indices, and we present the results of pilot metabarcoding studies using environmental DNA to infer biotic indices. We discuss the main advantages and pitfalls of metabarcoding approaches to assess parameters such as richness, abundance, taxonomic composition and species ecological values, to be used for calculation of biotic indices. We present some future developments to fully exploit the potential of metabarcoding data and improve the accuracy and precision of their analysis. We also propose some recommendations for the future integration of DNA metabarcoding to routine biomonitoring programs.