Heatmap Evaluation of Facial Hydration Using a Novel Python Program.

BACKGROUND: Evaluating cleansers and moisturizers provides important information to guide clinicians in the recommendation of these products. This project was performed to visualize skin hydration via heatmap after the use of a gentle skin cleanser (GSC) and moisturizing lotion (ML). METHODS: Half-face, intra-individual open-label study in healthy volunteers. Cleanser was administered in a single application that was then wiped off the face. Moisturizing lotion was applied at least once-daily for one week. Hydration measurements were made at 30 pre-defined points on half of the face, at baseline, and 30 minutes post-application; an additional assessment at week 1 was made for the moisturizing lotion. Heatmaps were generated using Python programming software to interpolate hydration values to colors that were then superimposed onto the volunteer's facial image.  Results: Five subjects completed the cleanser assessments, and 5 subjects completed the 30-minute evaluation for the lotion, with 4 completing the week 1 assessment. There was a visible shift in skin hydration post-GSC application from values approximately in the 12-42 AU (arbitrary unit) range to 30-60 AU at 30 minutes. Similarly, there was a shift in hydration from baseline to 30 minutes that continued to increase through week 1 of ML use. CONCLUSIONS: This innovative heatmap data generation showed a clear, visual change in hydration over time. There was a visible shift in hydration values from baseline to 30 minutes after application of cleanser; hydration also improved after use of moisturizing lotion at 30 minutes and increased after week 1 application.  J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(6):463-465.     doi:10.36849/JDD.8221.

Development of an in vitro Functional Assay to Evaluate the Occlusive Properties of Moisturizers on Dry Skin.

INTRODUCTION: Dry skin is a hallmark of impaired skin barrier function. Moisturizers are a mainstay of treatment to help the skin retain moisture, and there is a high consumer demand for effective products. However, the development and optimization of new formulations are hampered due to lack of reliable efficacy measures using in vitro models. METHODS: In this study, a microscopy-based barrier functional assay was developed using an in vitro skin model of chemically induced barrier damage to evaluate the occlusive activity of moisturizers. RESULTS: The assay was validated by demonstrating the different effects on barrier function between humectant (glycerol) and occlusive (petrolatum). Significant changes in barrier function were observed upon tissue disruption, which was ameliorated by commercial moisturizing products. CONCLUSION: This newly developed experimental method may be helpful to develop new and improved occlusive moisturizers for the treatment of dry skin conditions.

Optimization, kinetic, and scaling-up of solvent-free lipase-catalyzed synthesis of ethylene glycol oleate emollient ester.

The use of enzymatic catalysts is an alternative to chemical catalysts as they can help to obtain products with less environmental impact, considered sustainable within the concept of green chemistry. The optimization, kinetic, lipase reuse, and scale-up of enzymatic production of ethylene glycol oleate in the batch mode were carried out using the NS 88011 lipase in a solvent-free system. For the optimization step, a 23 Central Composite Design was used and the optimized condition for the ethylene glycol oleate production, with conversions above 99%, was at 70 °C, 600 rpm, substrates molar ratio of 1:2, 1 wt% of NS 88011 in 32 H of reaction. Kinetic tests were also carried out with different amounts of enzyme, and it showed that by decreasing the amount of the enzyme, the conversion also decreases. The lipase reuse showed good conversions until the second cycle of use, after which it had a progressive reduction reaching 83% in the fourth cycle of use. The scale-up (ninefold increase) showed promising results, with conversion above 99%, achieving conversions similar to small-scale reactions. Therefore, this work proposed an environmentally safe route to produce an emollient ester using a low-cost biocatalyst in a solvent-free system.

ARTICLE: Models to Study Skin Lipids in Relation to the Barrier Function: A Modern Update on Models and Methodologies Evaluating Skin Barrier Function.

The skin barrier is a multifaceted microenvironment, comprised not only of structural and molecular components that maintain its integrity, but also a lipid matrix comprising an equimolar ratio of cholesterol, free fatty acids, and ceramides. Lipid abnormalities induced by environmental or pathological stimuli are often associated with impaired skin barrier function and integrity. Incorporation of skin lipids in skincare formulations to help fortify barrier function has become widespread. While there are resources available to study the barrier, a comprehensive evaluation of skin models, from in situ to in vivo, that focus on alterations of the lipid content, seems to be lacking. This article reviews current methods to evaluate the skin lipid barrier and touches upon the significance of using such models within the cosmetic field to study formulations that incorporate barrier lipids. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(4 Suppl):s10-16. doi:10.36849/JDD.S589B.

ARTICLE: Efficacy of Ceramide-Containing Formulations on UV-Induced Skin Surface Barrier Alterations.

The human skin, particularly the stratum corneum, serves as a protective barrier against exogenous factors, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and pathogen invasions. The impact of UVR on skin cancer and photoaging has been extensively studied. However, the direct impact of UVR on skin barrier integrity under clinical settings remains poorly explored. Due to their benefits in reducing inflammation and promoting skin barrier repair, ceramide-containing formulations can provide added photoprotection benefits. In this study, the efficacy of a ceramide-containing sunscreen and moisturizer were evaluated in preventing UV-induced skin surface barrier changes. Expert grading, instrumental, and tape-stripping assessments demonstrated that UVR induced erythema and hyperpigmentation and caused changes in skin cells surface morphological organization and maturation. Treatment with a ceramide-containing sunscreen and moisturizing cream routine reduced erythema and hyperpigmentation, improved skin hydration, and maintained normal superficial skin cells morphology and turnover after UVR. Our results indicate that barrier-enforcing lipids formulations can provide additional benefits in patient’s daily routine by strengthening the barrier and improving skin health overall against chronic sun exposure. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(4 Suppl):s29-35. doi:10.36849/JDD.S589E.

A Novel Multi-Action Emollient Plus Cream Improves Skin Barrier Function in Patients with Atopic Dermatitis: In vitro and Clinical Evidence.

BACKGROUND: Emollients capable of restoring the skin barrier function would extend their role beyond basic maintenance therapy in atopic dermatitis (AD). OBJECTIVES: Investigate the effect of a novel emollient plus cream (EC; Dermoflan®) on the skin barrier in vitro and in patients with mild-to-moderate AD. METHODS: The effect of EC on the skin barrier recovery was evaluated using a tape-stripping (TS) model. After TS, organ cultures were treated with EC (undiluted or diluted 1:1 with water) and analyzed at 18-120 h using hematoxylin and eosin, Oil Red O, immunohistochemical, and immunofluorescent techniques. In a double-blind, randomized study, EC or placebo was applied once daily for 2 months to antecubital folds of the upper and lower limbs of patients with mild-to-moderate AD in clinical remission. Epidermal thickness, vascularization, and epidermal hydration were assessed by optical coherence tomography and corneometry, respectively, at baseline, and 1 and 2 months following treatment initiation. RESULTS: Following TS, EC treatment significantly increased epidermal thickness and lipid content versus diluent in the skin organ culture, as well as claudin-1, involucrin, and caspase-14 expression, suggesting skin barrier repair. EC treatment also decreased keratin-16 expression and increased levels of Toll-like receptors 1 and 2 versus diluent, suggesting involvement in regulating the epidermal immune response. In 20 patients randomized 1:1 to EC or placebo, EC treatment at the elbow fold/popliteal fossa significantly decreased epidermal thickness after 2 months, and the number of blood vessels at the elbow fold after 1 and 2 months, versus placebo. EC significantly improved the skin hydration after 2 months versus baseline. CONCLUSIONS: This novel multi-action EC may help to restore epidermal homeostasis and improve the skin of patients with AD. Results indicate that this novel multi-action EC could be a valid adjuvant therapy in patients with AD. Key Message: Novel multi-action emollient cream helps to restore epidermal homeostasis and improves the skin affected by AD.

Measurements meet perceptions: rheology-texture-sensory relations when using green, bio-derived emollients in cosmetic emulsions.

OBJECTIVE: Product aesthetics and sensory performance can strongly influence a cosmetic product's acceptance by consumers. However, classic sensory analysis is time-consuming, expensive and does not provide information on the target group's preference. In the previous phase of this project, we had untrained consumers evaluate six cosmetic emulsions based on their aesthetics using a check-all-that-apply (CATA) survey. In this project, our goals were to quantitatively characterize the rheology and textural properties of the six cosmetic emulsions containing green, bio-derived emollients and identify statistical relationships between the consumers' description of products and the instrumental measurements. METHODS: Six emulsions were prepared-three with olive oil and three with heptyl undecylenate as an emollient. Four sensory-like attributes, namely firmness, work of shear, stickiness and adhesiveness, were tested using a texture analyser. Rheological characterization included continuous flow testing and oscillatory measurements. Droplet size and stability were also evaluated. Statistical relationships were quantified between measurements in this study and sensory survey results published previously. RESULTS: The textural and rheological results indicated that the emulsions were different-as designed. The texture and rheology measurements had analogous grouping outcomes to the consumers' discrimination. Emulsions 1 and 2 were the firmest, hardest to spread, stickiest and had the highest viscosity, while Emulsions 5 and 6 were the least firm, easiest to spread, less sticky than Emulsions 1 and 2, and had the lowest viscosity. Emulsions 3 and 4 fell in between the other two groups. Using olive oil instead of heptyl undecylenate as an emollient increased firmness, spreading, stickiness, viscosity and droplet size of the emulsions in every case-when comparing emulsions within each pair. All six emulsions had a shear-thinning behaviour. Viscosity and firmness directly correlated for the emulsions. Emulsions were visually stable at room temperature over the course of 6 months and viscosity remained relatively constant over this period also. CONCLUSION: Certain sensory attributes can be reliably predicted with instrumental measurements. Identifying and quantifying sensory-texture-rheology relationships can contribute to achieving appropriate product characteristics tailored to suit market needs.

Dermatology Part 2: Ichthyoses and Psoriasis.

Acute and chronic inflammatory skin diseases are frequent in childhood and may be hereditary or acquired. In this context, ichthyosis is rather a symptom than a defined disease as scaling is accompanying a number of disorders and is mostly consequence of a disrupted skin barrier. Ichthyosis is the basic pathogenic trait of atopic dermatitis but on the other side describes a group of rare hereditary diseases. These may only affect the skin or comprise several internal symptoms as well. Psoriasis is another scaling inflammatory skin disease with classical sharply demarcated erythematosquamous plaques and with a distinct immunogenetic background. It comprises several clinical subsets, some of which are characteristic for children and demanding in both diagnostics and therapy. Comorbid diseases point towards a systemic inflammatory response and require ample, often systemic treatment. Both ichthyosis and psoriasis may be topically treated including emollients with and without humectants as well as active agents like corticosteroids, vitamin D derivatives, and calcineurin inhibitors. In moderate to severe diseases, systemic treatment should be applied using methotrexate, ciclosporin, fumarates, or biologics. Their use should be critically discussed yet if necessary and indicated be applied to avoid chronic physical and psychological damage to the affected children.

A Consensus About the Importance of Ceramide Containing Skincare for Normal and Sensitive Skin Conditions in Neonates and Infants.

Background: Neonates and infants are susceptible to skin barrier disruption as their skin anatomically and functionally is still developing. The process of skin acidification plays a vital role in barrier maturation and the activation of enzymes involved in the extracellular processing of stratum corneum lipids. The current consensus paper explores challenges, and current treatment approaches in neonatal and infant normal and sensitive skin and the role of ceramides containing moisturizers. Methods: For this purpose, an expert panel of pediatric dermatologists and dermatologists discussed information from systematic literature searches, coupled with expert opinion and experience of the panel, to adopt eight statements. The consensus process consisted of a modified Delphi technique. Results: During the first years after birth, the neonatal and infant skin is more permeable to topical agents and, therefore, requires particular caution with topical skincare regimens. Mildly acidic or pH-neutral cleansers have benefits for neonates and infants. Skincare for neonates and infants should be safe, effective, and fragrance free as well as sensitizing agent-free. Additionally, the skincare should be pleasant to use, containing ingredients that benefit the lipid and water content of the SC, such as those products containing ceramides. Conclusion: Taking into consideration the maturation process of neonatal and infant skin, the application of moisturizers and cleansers containing barrier lipids may help maintain the protective skin barrier and soothe with long-term moisturizing benefits. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(8) 769-776: doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.5252 THIS ARTICLE HAD BEEN MADE AVAILABLE FREE OF CHARGE. PLEASE SCROLL DOWN TO ACCESS THE FULL TEXT OF THIS ARTICLE WITHOUT LOGGING IN. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. PLEASE CONTACT THE PUBLISHER WITH ANY QUESTIONS.

Contact haptens in emollients marketed in two European countries (Poland and Spain).

INTRODUCTION AND OBJECTIVES: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common skin disease among pediatric patients, which affects up to 20% of children worldwide. Characterized by pruritus and eczema, it is also associated with improper skin barrier function and allergen sensitization. Here, we aimed to assess the presence of haptens in emollients marketed in two European countries: in Poland and Spain, as, firstly, these products are considered to be AD's basic therapy, and, secondly, frequent application of potent sensitizers on atopic skin may result in contact dermatitis. MATERIALS AND METHODS: We systematically searched for moisturizers explicitly described as "Atopic skin care" products in the most frequently visited online pharmacies in Poland and Spain. Subsequently, we created a database of all products and compared their composition with 139 contact haptens listed in the European Baseline Series (EBS), Fragrance and Cosmetic Series. RESULTS: As of December 2018, our list comprised 159 and 111 emollients available on the Polish and Spanish markets, respectively. There were no ingredients listed in 28 (17.5%) products in Poland and 24 (21.6%) in Spain. Only 23 (17.5%) and 13 (14.8%) products were hapten free. The pattern of most common haptens was similar in both countries, including phenoxyethanol, tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate, undefined parfum in Poland and tocopherol, phenoxyethanol, tocopheryl acetate and undefined parfum in Spain. CONCLUSIONS: This study shows that a vast majority of products taken into consideration contain at least one potential contact hapten. These findings indicate a need for patient education about potentially allergenic ingredients and stronger cooperation between academia and cosmetic manufacturers.

Development and economic evaluation of an eco-friendly biocatalytic synthesis of emollient esters.

During the past decades the understanding and prospects of enzyme-catalysed reactions have been massively widened and there are a number of implemented large-scale enzymatic processes mainly based in the use of commercial biocatalysts. As it might happen that the same process can be successfully carried out by different commercial lipases, the election of the biocatalyst must rely on productivity and economic considerations. This work presents productiveness and direct operation cost evaluation as a key tool for the selection between two commercial lipase catalysts, the versatile but expensive Novozym® 435 and a much more economical option, Lipozyme® TL IM, in the synthesis of spermaceti, a mixture of emollient esters with cosmetic applications. Proving that Novozym® 435 leads to minimum savings of 10% with respect to the cheapest immobilized derivative, biocatalyst cost does not appear to be the major contribution to the economics of the processes under study, due to their great capacity to be recovered and reused. At laboratory scale, the biggest economic investment is caused by substrates, which can be massively reduced at industrial scale by using bulk reagents. In such case, energy cost may be the major contribution to the process economy. This work proposes an optimized process ready to be scaled-up in order to accurately determine the energetic requirements of the possible industrial enzymatic synthesis.

Emollient structure and chemical functionality effects on the biomechanical function of human stratum corneum.

OBJECTIVE: Cosmetic emollients are widely used in skincare formulations due to their ability to 'soften' the skin and modulate formulation spreadability. Though emollients are commonly used, little is known about their effects on the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC), which play a critical role in consumer perception of formulation efficacy. Accordingly, our objective was to provide new insights with a study involving fourteen cosmetic emollient molecules with widely varying structures, molecular weights, SC diffusivities, topological polar surface areas (TPSAs), viscosities and chemical functionalities. METHODS: Mechanical stress in the SC was measured in vitro using a substrate curvature measurement technique. Stress development due to SC drying was measured before and after topical treatment with cosmetic emollients. Emollient diffusivity and alterations to lipid content in SC after treatment were measured via ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. The maximum penetration volume of emollient in SC was characterized to elucidate mechanisms underlying emollient effects on stress. RESULTS: The application of all cosmetic emollients caused a reduction in SC mechanical stress under dehydrating conditions, and a linear correlation was discovered between emollient penetration volume and the degree of stress reduction. These molecules also induced increases in stress equilibration rate, signalling changes to SC transport kinetics. Stress equilibration rate increases linearly correlated with decreasing intensity of the νCH2 band, indicating a previously unknown interaction between cosmetic emollients and SC lipids. Stress and penetration volume results were rationalized in terms of a multi-parameter model including emollient molecular weight, diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity. CONCLUSION: We provide a new rational basis for understanding the effects of cosmetic emollient choice on biomechanical properties affecting SC barrier function and consumer perception. We demonstrate for the first time that emollients very likely reduce SC mechanical stress through their ability to take up volume when penetrating the SC, and how molecular weight, SC diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity are predictive of this ability. As cosmetic formulations continue to evolve to meet the needs of customers, emollient molecules can be selected that not only contribute to formulation texture and/or spreadability but that also leverage this novel connection between emollient penetration and SC biomechanics.

OBJECTIF: Les émollients cosmétiques sont largement utilisés dans les formulations de soins de la peau en raison de leur capacité à «adoucir¼ la peau et à moduler la capacité d'étalement de la formulation. Bien que les émollients soient couramment utilisés, on en sait peu sur leurs effets sur les propriétés de barrière biomécanique de la couche cornée humaine (SC), qui jouent un rôle essentiel dans la perception par les consommateurs de l'efficacité de la formulation. En conséquence, notre objectif était de fournir de nouvelles perspectives avec une étude impliquant quatorze molécules émollientes cosmétiques avec des structures, des poids moléculaires, des diffusivités SC, des surfaces polaires topologiques (TPSA), des viscosités et des fonctionnalités chimiques très variables. MÉTHODES: La contrainte mécanique dans le SC a été mesurée in vitro en utilisant une technique de mesure de la courbure du substrat. Le développement du stress dû au séchage SC a été mesuré avant et après un traitement topique avec des émollients cosmétiques. La diffusivité émolliente et les altérations de la teneur en lipides dans la SC après le traitement ont été mesurées par spectroscopie ATR-FTIR. Le volume de pénétration maximal de l'émollient dans SC a été caractérisé pour élucider les mécanismes sous-jacents aux effets émollients sur le stress. RÉSULTATS: L'application de tous les émollients cosmétiques a entraîné une réduction de la contrainte mécanique SC dans des conditions de déshydratation, et une corrélation linéaire a été découverte entre le volume de pénétration de l'émollient et le degré de réduction de la contrainte. Ces molécules ont également induit des augmentations du taux d'équilibrage des contraintes, signalant des changements dans la cinétique de transport SC. Le taux d'équilibrage des contraintes augmente linéairement en corrélation avec la diminution de l'intensité de la bande νCH2 , indiquant une interaction jusque-là inconnue entre les émollients cosmétiques et les lipides SC. Les résultats du stress et du volume de pénétration ont été rationalisés en termes d'un modèle multi-paramètres comprenant le poids moléculaire émollient, la diffusivité, le TPSA et la viscosité. CONCLUSION: Nous fournissons une nouvelle base rationnelle pour comprendre les effets du choix des émollients cosmétiques sur les propriétés biomécaniques affectant la fonction de barrière SC et la perception du consommateur. Nous démontrons pour la première fois que les émollients réduisent très probablement la contrainte mécanique SC grâce à leur capacité à prendre du volume lors de la pénétration du SC, et comment le poids moléculaire, la diffusivité SC, le TPSA et la viscosité sont prédictifs de cette capacité. Alors que les formulations cosmétiques continuent d'évoluer pour répondre aux besoins des clients, des molécules émollientes peuvent être sélectionnées qui contribuent non seulement à la texture et / ou à l'étalement de la formulation, mais qui exploitent également cette nouvelle connexion entre la pénétration des émollients et la biomécanique SC.

Scented lotions may cause scaring and premature fading of tattoos.

Although tattoo artists provide tattoo aftercare instructions to their clients, recommendations are often not cost-effective or supported by evidence. A 22-year-old man developed a pruritic red rash over his healing tattoo one week after receiving the tattoo. Although multiple queries were negative, the patient did note use of a scented lotion before the eruption. We determined that allergic contact dermatitis from the scented lotion caused scarring and premature fading of the new tattoo. Tattoo artists should recommend avoidance of scented lotions and instruct clients to care for their new tattoo like a wound in their aftercare instructions.

Principles of Moisturizer Product Design

Moisturizers provide significant benefit in dermatology ­ as adjuvant therapy for many clinical conditions, as a key player in anti-aging regimens, and as a core component in maintaining healthy skin barrier function. Although they have been a mainstay for decades, lotions and creams are no longer formulated with a one-size-fits-all approach, where thickness was the primary cue for efficacy. In fact, moisturizer design today has become an art as well as a science. Product efficacy, aesthetics, and packaging are all engineered in a variety of ways, to create an expansive market of products that meet many consumer needs. The addition of specific types of functional ingredients can make a noteworthy difference as well. This article will explore the myriad approaches for moisturizer development and debunk some of the long-standing myths that have pervaded the marketplace. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(1 Suppl):s89-95

Measurement of the biomechanical function and structure of ex vivo drying skin using raman spectral analysis and its modulation with emollient mixtures.

An important aspect of the biomechanical behaviour of the stratum corneum (SC) is the drying stresses that develop with water loss. These stresses act as a driving force for damage in the form of chapping and cracking. Betasitosterol is a plant sterol with a structure similar to cholesterol, a key component in the intercellular lipids of the outermost layer of human skin, the SC. Cholesterol plays an important role in stabilizing the SC lipid structure, and altered levels of cholesterol have been linked with SC barrier abnormalities. Betasitosterol is currently applied topically to skin for treatment of wounds and burns. However, it is unknown what effect betasitosterol has on the biomechanical barrier function of skin. Here, by analysing the drying stress profile of SC generated during a kinetics of dehydration, we show that betasitosterol, in combination with two emollient molecules, isocetyl stearoyl stearate (ISS) and glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate (GTEH), causes a significant modulation of the drying stress behaviour of the SC by reducing both the maximal peak stress height and average plateau of the drying stress profile. Raman spectra analyses demonstrate that the combination of betasitosterol with the two emollients, ISS and GTEH, allows a high water retention capacity within the SC, while the lipid conformational order by increasing the amount of trans conformers. Our study highlights the advantage of combining a biomechanical approach together with Raman spectroscopy in engineering a suitable combination of molecules for alleviating dryness and dry skin damage.

Emollient product design: objective measurements of formulation structure, texture and performance, and subjective assessments of user acceptability.

BACKGROUND: The choice of prescribed emollients is usually based on cost and patient preference. Differences in formulations can affect user acceptability. AIM: To compare the physical performance, user acceptability and various product design features of two emollient gels that are prescribed in the UK and alleged to be therapeutically interchangeable because their formulations are described as having the same contents of oily ingredients. RESULTS: We found that here are in fact significant measurable differences between the structure and performance of the two formulations, which materially affect their user acceptability. These differences are attributed to the use of different types of gelling agents and other ingredients of differing grades/quality and concentrations, and probably due to the formulations being made by different manufacturing processes. We also identified other product design features that are important to user appeal, including the type of container in which the formulations are presented, the type of dispensing devices provided, and the nature and form of the supplied user instructions. CONCLUSION: Patients and prescribers should be aware that there can be important differences in performance and user appeal between emollients, even between products that, superficially, may appear to be very similar. These important performance aspects should be characterized for new emollient introductions to encourage better informed product selection.

Impact of Type and Duration of Application of Commercially Available Oral Moisturizers on Their Antifungal Effects.

PURPOSE: To examine the impact of oral moisturizer type and application time on antifungal effects. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Seventeen oral moisturizers (7 liquids, 10 gels) and amphotericin B (AMPH-B) were tested. Antifungal effects were evaluated with newly opened moisturizer samples (0 hour) and with samples incubated for 8 hours to simulate contact during sleep. Candida albicans samples (108 cells/ml) were placed into cylindrical holes in 50% trypticase soy agar plates. Antifungal effects were evaluated based on growth-inhibitory zones after 24 hours. Equal quantities of moisturizers showing growth-inhibitory zones were mixed as additional samples. The effects of moisturizer type and application time on growth-inhibitory zones were evaluated with ANOVA. Growth-inhibitory zone sizes were compared with multiple comparisons. RESULTS: Growth-inhibitory zones were found with two liquids, one gel, moisturizer mixtures, and AMPH-B. Significant differences in antifungal effects were found among different moisturizer types and between the 0- and 8-hour groups. The growth-inhibitory zones of the 8-hour group were significantly smaller than those of the 0-hour group. In both the 0- and 8-hour groups, the growth-inhibitory zones of the liquid-gel mixtures were significantly larger than those of other moisturizer types, and were the same size as those of AMPH-B at two concentrations (1.25 and 2.5 µg/ml). Growth-inhibitory zones of individual moisturizers and liquid-liquid mixtures were the same size as those of lower AMPH-B concentrations (0.16, 0.31, and 0.63 µg/ml). CONCLUSION: Our findings suggest that mixing liquid and gel moisturizers improves their antifungal efficiency.

Emollients and moisturisers for eczema.

BACKGROUND: Eczema is a chronic skin disease characterised by dry skin, intense itching, inflammatory skin lesions, and a considerable impact on quality of life. Moisturisation is an integral part of treatment, but it is unclear if moisturisers are effective. OBJECTIVES: To assess the effects of moisturisers for eczema. SEARCH METHODS: We searched the following databases to December 2015: Cochrane Skin Specialised Register, CENTRAL, MEDLINE, Embase, LILACS, the GREAT database. We searched five trials registers and checked references of included and excluded studies for further relevant trials. SELECTION CRITERIA: Randomised controlled trials in people with eczema. DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS: We used standard Cochrane methodological procedures. MAIN RESULTS: We included 77 studies (6603 participants, mean age: 18.6 years, mean duration: 6.7 weeks). We assessed 36 studies as at a high risk of bias, 34 at unclear risk, and seven at low risk. Twenty-four studies assessed our primary outcome 'participant-assessed disease severity', 13 assessed 'satisfaction', and 41 assessed 'adverse events'. Secondary outcomes included investigator-assessed disease severity (addressed in 65 studies), skin barrier function (29), flare prevention (16), quality of life (10), and corticosteroid use (eight). Adverse events reporting was limited (smarting, stinging, pruritus, erythema, folliculitis).Six studies evaluated moisturiser versus no moisturiser. 'Participant-assessed disease severity' and 'satisfaction' were not assessed. Moisturiser use yielded lower SCORAD than no moisturiser (three studies, 276 participants, mean difference (MD) -2.42, 95% confidence interval (CI) -4.55 to -0.28), but the minimal important difference (MID) (8.7) was unmet. There were fewer flares with moisturisers (two studies, 87 participants, RR 0.40, 95% CI 0.23 to 0.70), time to flare was prolonged (median: 180 versus 30 days), and less topical corticosteroids were needed (two studies, 222 participants, MD -9.30 g, 95% CI -15.3 to -3.27). There was no statistically significant difference in adverse events (one study, 173 participants, risk ratio (RR) 15.34, 95% CI 0.90 to 261.64). Evidence for these outcomes was low quality.With Atopiclair (three studies), 174/232 participants experienced improvement in participant-assessed disease severity versus 27/158 allocated to vehicle (RR 4.51, 95% CI 2.19 to 9.29). Atopiclair decreased itching (four studies, 396 participants, MD -2.65, 95% CI -4.21 to -1.09) and achieved more frequent satisfaction (two studies, 248 participants, RR 2.14, 95% CI 1.58 to 2.89), fewer flares (three studies, 397 participants, RR 0.18, 95% CI 0.11 to 0.31), and lower EASI (four studies, 426 participants, MD -4.0, 95% CI -5.42 to -2.57), but MID (6.6) was unmet. The number of participants reporting adverse events was not statistically different (four studies, 430 participants, RR 1.03, 95% CI 0.79 to 1.33). Evidence for these outcomes was moderate quality.Participants reported skin improvement more frequently with urea-containing cream than placebo (one study, 129 participants, RR 1.28, 95% CI 1.06 to 1.53; low-quality evidence), with equal satisfaction between the two groups (one study, 38 participants, low-quality evidence). Urea-containing cream improved dryness (investigator-assessed) more frequently (one study, 128 participants, RR 1.40, 95% CI 1.14 to 1.71; moderate-quality evidence) with fewer flares (one study, 44 participants, RR 0.47, 95% CI 0.24 to 0.92; low-quality evidence), but more participants in this group reported adverse events (one study, 129 participants, RR 1.65, 95% CI 1.16 to 2.34; moderate-quality evidence).Three studies assessed glycerol-containing moisturiser versus vehicle or placebo. More participants in the glycerol group noticed skin improvement (one study, 134 participants, RR 1.22, 95% CI 1.01 to 1.48; moderate-quality evidence), and this group saw improved investigator-assessed SCORAD (one study, 249 participants, MD -2.20, 95% CI -3.44 to -0.96; high-quality evidence), but MID was unmet. Participant satisfaction was not addressed. The number of participants reporting adverse events was not statistically significant (two studies, 385 participants, RR 0.90, 95% CI 0.68 to 1.19; moderate-quality evidence).Four studies investigated oat-containing moisturisers versus no treatment or vehicle. No significant differences between groups were reported for participant-assessed disease severity (one study, 50 participants, RR 1.11, 95% CI 0.84 to 1.46; low-quality evidence), satisfaction (one study, 50 participants, RR 1.06, 95% CI 0.74 to 1.52; very low-quality evidence), and investigator-assessed disease severity (three studies, 272 participants, standardised mean difference (SMD) -0.23, 95% CI -0.66 to 0.21; low-quality evidence). In the oat group, there were fewer flares (one study, 43 participants, RR 0.31, 95% CI 0.12 to 0.7; low-quality evidence) and less topical corticosteroids needed (two studies, 222 participants, MD -9.30g, 95% CI 15.3 to -3.27; low-quality evidence), but more adverse events were reported (one study, 173 participants; Peto odds ratio (OR) 7.26, 95% CI 1.76 to 29.92; low-quality evidence).All moisturisers above were compared to placebo, vehicle, or no moisturiser. Participants considered moisturisers more effective in reducing eczema (five studies, 572 participants, RR 2.46, 95% CI 1.16 to 5.23; low-quality evidence) and itch (seven studies, 749 participants, SMD -1.10, 95% CI -1.83 to -0.38) than control. Participants in both treatment arms reported comparable satisfaction (three studies, 296 participants, RR 1.35, 95% CI 0.77 to 2.26; low-quality evidence). Moisturisers led to lower investigator-assessed disease severity (12 studies, 1281 participants, SMD -1.04, 95% CI -1.57 to -0.51; high-quality evidence) and fewer flares (six studies, 607 participants, RR 0.33, 95% CI 0.17 to 0.62; moderate-quality evidence), but there was no difference in adverse events (10 studies, 1275 participants, RR 1.03, 95% CI 0.82 to 1.30; moderate-quality evidence).Topical active treatment combined with moisturiser was more effective than active treatment alone in reducing investigator-assessed disease severity (three studies, 192 participants, SMD -0.87, 95% CI -1.17 to -0.57; moderate-quality evidence) and flares (one study, 105 participants, RR 0.43, 95% CI 0.20 to 0.93), and was preferred by participants (both low-quality evidence). There was no statistically significant difference in number of adverse events (one study, 125 participants, RR 0.39, 95% CI 0.13 to 1.19; very low-quality evidence). Participant-assessed disease severity was not addressed. AUTHORS' CONCLUSIONS: Most moisturisers showed some beneficial effects, producing better results when used with active treatment, prolonging time to flare, and reducing the number of flares and amount of topical corticosteroids needed to achieve similar reductions in eczema severity. We did not find reliable evidence that one moisturiser is better than another.

Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 244 plant-derived fatty acid oils as used in cosmetics. Oils are used in a wide variety of cosmetic products for their skin conditioning, occlusive, emollient, and moisturizing properties. Since many of these oils are edible, and their systemic toxicity potential is low, the review focused on potential dermal effects. The Panel concluded that the 244 plant-derived fatty acid oils are safe as used in cosmetics.

Improvement in Extensive Moderate Plaque Psoriasis With a Novel Emollient Spray Formulation of Betamethasone Dipropionate 0.05.

BACKGROUND: A novel formulation of 0.05% betamethasone dipropionate in an emollient spray vehicle (DFD-01) was developed to deliver steroid to the skin layers most affected by psoriasis. OBJECTIVE: To compare the efficacy and safety of DFD-01 to its vehicle for the treatment of moderate plaque psoriasis over 4 weeks. METHODS: Two Phase 3 trials enrolled adults with moderate psoriasis (Investigator Global Assessment [IGA]=3; 10-20% body surface area [BSA]) and randomized them 2:1 to DFD-01 or Vehicle. Products were applied twice daily to affected areas for 28 days. Treatment success was defined as an IGA=0 or 1 and ≥ 2-grade improvement from baseline. Primary endpoint was the proportion of subjects achieving treatment success at day 15. RESULTS: Moderate psoriasis subjects were enrolled in Study 1 (174 DFD-01; 87 Vehicle) and Study 2 (182 DFD-01; 95 Vehicle). Mean BSA was 13-14%. Treatment success was achieved in significantly more subjects using DFD-01 than Vehicle at day 15 in both Study 1 (P<0.001) and Study 2 (P=0.002), and at day 29 (both studies P<0.001). Treatment success with DFD-01 was significant at day 8 in Study 1 (P=0.003) but not in Study 2 (P=0.156). Erythema, scaling, and plaque elevation scores of target lesions were significantly reduced as early as day 4 with DFD-01. Adverse events were similar between groups, with no increase between 2 and 4 weeks. CONCLUSION: These studies demonstrate DFD-01's excellent efficacy and safety for the treatment of extensive psoriasis (10-20% BSA). DFD-01 achieved treatment success in significantly more subjects than Vehicle after 2 and 4 weeks of treatment, and showed early onset of action with improved signs of erythema, scaling and elevation of target lesions after 4 days of treatment. This medium potency formulation provides a safe and effective choice for topical steroid treatment of psoriasis.